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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 18, 2008 - 04:48pm PT
I just added the preface to the list above. or you can click on it here

Trad climber
Oct 18, 2008 - 05:08pm PT
It would be cool to have a photo section of different/tricky/unique ways of climbing clean----photos of cam hooks, inverted offset aliens, tricams, etc.

------kind of like the "Climbing Anchors" book by John Long.

Adv./Disadv. of different leading daisy setups, jugging systems, solo belay systems.

Speed/effeciency techniques.

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Oct 18, 2008 - 06:42pm PT
For some of the more complex things that can be hard to visualize when reading and that would take many panels of drawings to show the step, you could have links to YouTube.
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Oct 18, 2008 - 11:48pm PT
Sounds like a good book. I would like to get back into wall climbing and such a book would help. To date (in chronological order) WFLT (1975), WC South Face, WC Prow, bail on Salathe Wall (1976).

Not much, I know.

Trad climber
Oct 19, 2008 - 01:51am PT
I'd definitely be psyched to see pictures of cam hooks and funky clean placements you can pull off in a book in writing. I think it would influence a lot of people actually, and be pretty cool.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
I just added cleaning and following with video:

Social climber
Oct 28, 2008 - 06:42pm PT

Wow! Chris

Get rid of that video now and show correct hookup/use of jumars. There is a reason for those holes on top of them.

It is for safety. Call it a backup.

Why is that every novice climber that I have seen never looks at the paper that comes when buying these?

Unless you are speed climbing which 99% of your audience will not be, they will learn the incorrect way from the beginning.

If you notice one of the carabiners is Chounard’s and the other Black Diamond with these pictures. Remember what happened to his company.

All it will take is that same attorney or another to see this and your ass is his and $$$$$.

Werner's post: “In a nutshell, visualize a clean efficient layout, before making the huge clusterfuks I've seen parties make time and time again.”

Do it. Can make a difference between a rescue, death or just got lucky this time.

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Nov 1, 2008 - 01:46am PT
Have Mike Clelland do the illustrations. I don't know the man, but his contributions to Tech Tips in Climbing magazine has made many an article more entertaining and clear.
Jacqueline Florine

Trad climber
Nov 4, 2008 - 04:26pm PT

I would like to add my two cents to the topic of wig wall soloing.
One of my favorite bits of gear is a Pika hammock.
It is nice and light, very easy to set up and break down, and allows me to bivy anywhere I can get in good gear. It is so comfy that I prefer to sleep in it instead of any stone ledge I may happen onto. I really appreciate being free of the pressure to get to a certain spot for rest. It is also super easy to sew your own hammock.

My opinion on your "how to" project is to write a beginner big wall book. Then publish a second on difficult aid. I feel the requirements are distinct enough to warrant 2 volumes.

Trad climber
Nov 26, 2008 - 09:38am PT
Hauling Chapter

How about a look at the hauling chapter?
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Nov 27, 2008 - 09:51am PT

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Nov 27, 2008 - 10:33am PT
I'd like to read about hauling - I'm excited about this book. Bump for MC's illustrations.
Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
Dec 24, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
As a couple of others have mentioned a section or short (very short) chapter on food - solids and liquids - could be helpful, though I know that dietary requirements vary with individuals.

I started a thread recently on this subject and received some helpful tips from more experienced wall climbers.

Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Dec 24, 2008 - 12:59pm PT
I remember when I was learning to aid... The things that were the hardest to find really good info on were:

Solo aiding - WTF? There's, like, NOTHING out there on solo aid.

Cleaning traverses and penjis - really not a lot out there for this either. Pics would probably make people happy.

Hauling - There's a ton of info out there about hauling and the different methods, etc... People jsut can't seem to get enough info about hauling tho.

These seem to be the thing I see the most requests for and the most bitching about the lack of info.

Dec 24, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
My two cents: Go for the big book, don't skimp on details. If you must have only small books, do a "Big Wall Climbing" book and an "Advanced Big Wall Climbing" book. In the advanced, go all out.


Big Wall climber
somewhere without avatars.........
Dec 24, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
Sounds like a good plan, Hobo. Lot's of people just starting out would like to get hold of Chongo's book, as it seems to cover everything. Then they hear the price. And THEN they find out how hard it is to get hold of one...

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 24, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
JPL wrote: "The only way anyone is going to be able to visualize anything is if they have a library of working pieces and requirments. I think the "robot" comment comes from trying to apply just a few ways of doing things to every situation, perhaps not understanding the fundamentals well enough to be able to invent on the fly, which is the goal."

Agreed. What there is no consensus on is - what are the requirements, and what are the basic, standardized procedures. We can't even agree on whether a redirect is or is not wanted or needed at a belay anchor. People say there are too many variables to work out a standardized approach, but I disagree.


Ice climber
Candia, NH
Dec 24, 2008 - 08:33pm PT
Thanks for the videos. I'm just starting to learn aiding and I'm finding them useful. I have big wall aspirations, so I'm pretty much your target audience.

This might seem trivial, but I'd suggest covering daisy chains a little more. I kept trying to to aid in the gym by just using my fifi or a quickdraw to clip into the grab loop on my aiders, which was hard on overhangs. Then a little light bulb went off in my head when I figured out I could just fifi into the pockets on my daisy. Total gumby move, I know, but mentioning it might make things more clear to a total aid beginner.

I really like how you're emphasizing efficiency. I'm using two ladder style aiders and I haven't really felt the need for more.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2009 - 01:46am PT
just added a checklist to climbing the nose. this is a work in progress
Ryan Tetz

Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Feb 16, 2009 - 04:30am PT
Nice Chris. Super cool. You are definitely the best guy for the job. I'd personally be interested in more info or short fixing/efficient aid techniques and also a section on harder aid leads, not a lot out there on that stuff. Go big brotha!

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