Son Of Heart - T.R.

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Messages 81 - 100 of total 131 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 19, 2008 - 11:39am PT
Guidebook descreption of sections of Son Of Heart:

"Poorly protected California wetlands"
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2008 - 02:15am PT
Hey Pete,

"Poorly protected California wetlands"

How about the A1 rating on the wetlands section? It seemed more difficult than the "A3+" hooks above, eh?
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Oct 20, 2008 - 09:10am PT
Awesome report and pix, guys.
WOW WOW WOW!!!!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 20, 2008 - 10:33am PT
It's a little known aid climbing fact, Bill, that on the SW Face of El Cap, if you equalize 37 weeds, they will hold body weight. Start with 37 3mm water bottle neck loops, and get creative with couple hundred metres of 1/2" webbing. Complete the placement with a Scream-Aid for full UIAA certification.
Gene

climber
Feb 25, 2009 - 10:44am PT
Big Wall TR Bump!
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 28, 2010 - 06:59pm PT
BUMP to go with the "Son of Hart" post, This line always inspired me. Fearsome, leaning and leering.

In the dark at a camp fire, people were talking various Yosemite routes. To no one in particular Hugh Burton said; "Son of Heart, the chimneys,5.10 jumaring, ha ha". Didn't need much imagination after hearing that from him!
Ricardo Cabeza

climber
All Over.
Jan 29, 2010 - 12:04am PT
BUMP.
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Jan 29, 2010 - 12:39am PT
The Culprit

"Hmmm, I wonder where the Grey Poupon is?"




Samarkand market
(check out the chic bellbottoms!)
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Jan 29, 2010 - 02:07am PT
Thanks so much for putting in the time and effort for this TR. SOH has always held a certain place in my life. I had planned to do it with a friend of mine in the Spring of '75. I got really sick and ended up in the hospital by the first of June, and missed out. I wish I could relive that Spring/Summer.

My friend, Dave Stutzman(with Maurice from Norway)went ahead and attempted the second ascent. Got within less than a pitch from the top.

He gave me pitch by pitch account. What I recall vividly is his discription of the back to back wide pitches. Kirkegaard and Nietzsche. He led them both with zero pro. Belay to belay. No aid, no bongs, and of course their were no Cams BITD.

Dave Stutzman was a bad azz...RIP Dave!
Plumbbob

Mountain climber
Juneau, AK
Jan 29, 2010 - 02:52am PT
Just a note, I climbed with Dave in 1977 and his stories of the Son of Heart route were entertaining and educational. I think I have some of his origional slides from his attempt in with some of our other climbing pictures. I'll try to get those scanned and then add them to this thread.
BP
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 29, 2010 - 07:21am PT
TripL7 - how the heck can someone get within a pitch of the top, and not complete the second ascent? Whether you count the "top" the beginning of the slab, or the very top, none of those pitches up there is hard. I don't get it.

Did they rap the whole route? Get stormed on? Did someone drop them a toprope?
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Jan 29, 2010 - 08:41am PT
PtPP!

They ran out of water. Dave said he didn't have the energy to high-step his aiders on the overhanging wall(not technically difficult). They were suffering from dehydration. He went up several times but couldn't step up high enough to place a pin. The next pitch(Fat City??)eases off and they would have been home free.

They laid there for about 3-4 days, at which time Chapman and Orey wrapped down to the ledge(Thanksgiving??)and dropped them a line. Dave was hoping someone would lower down a couple liters of water. He felt that he would be able to finish the last(steep)pitch and complete the route. But Mark and Jim had not brought much water(half quart).

That's why Dave was upset in regards to the rescue. He felt that if it was one of there friends they would have brought sufficient water for them to finish the route. They had plenty of food, but they couldn't swallow it without water. He didn't want to be rescued.

Plumbbob! Looking forward to seeing those pics. Thanks!

Trip~

EDIT: Regardless, they were rescued and should have shown more appreciation.

Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Jan 29, 2010 - 10:56am PT
What, no love for my portrait of The Culprit?
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 29, 2010 - 03:32pm PT
Reilly,

Obviously none of us has the slightest idea who The Culprit is. How about a name?

TripL7, that is an amazing story! What a terrible way to fail. That would never happen nowadays with cell phones and two-way radios. SOH finishes right of Thanksgiving coming onto the edge of a two-pitch long slab, which is a nasty low-angle drag-fest finish now shared with Sunkist.
Jingy

Social climber
Nowhere
Jan 29, 2010 - 03:35pm PT
great TR guys...

Bump!!!

Cheers
TripL7

Trad climber
san diego
Jan 29, 2010 - 07:21pm PT
PtPP!

Yea, they were about 75 ft below the slab pitches on the overhanging wall! Dave felt as though they could have finished it, or at least made it to the top and left the haul bag until later. If they could have got up to the lower angled pitches.

So it goes.
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Jan 29, 2010 - 07:53pm PT
PTPP
The culprit looks remarkably like Rick Sylvester.......
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Jan 29, 2010 - 08:07pm PT
Pete,
I assumed (I know) that everybody already knew
what Sylvester looked like, without his Asgard skis on, that is.
I guess I also assumed y'all would make the deduction
based on the thread title; my bad!

ps
posted simultaneously with Jim B
skywalker

climber
Jan 30, 2010 - 08:53pm PT
bump...
Mighty Hiker

climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Apr 19, 2010 - 01:35am PT
If one was climbing Son of Heart, and fell, would it be considered a Freudian slip? Would a pinnacle have to be part of the scenario?

Bump.
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