sempervirens
Trad climber
Trinity County
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Oct 18, 2008 - 07:31pm PT
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uh-huh, but what if you did find out what species it was. wouldn't that be something.
And yeah, climbing rock might necessitate cleaning rock. Flushing a toilet pollutes water, starting my car puts carbon in the atmosphere, etc. You get the idea.
We still choose to do what we do. So, if you choose to launch a dirt hummock, wouldn't it be wise to consider that action a bit more. Or to define "weed" when you pull one out. Maybe find out what it is. What if it were a very rare plant. Could be an unknown species, not likely but ya never know. Species unknown to western science are found every year in California.
What kind of flowers did you see up there? Monkey flowers, willow herb, maybe. Selaginella, (that's not a flower).
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 19, 2008 - 08:39am PT
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Guidebook descreption of sections of Son Of Heart:
"Poorly protected California wetlands"
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 19, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
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Hey Pete,
"Poorly protected California wetlands"
How about the A1 rating on the wetlands section? It seemed more difficult than the "A3+" hooks above, eh?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oct 20, 2008 - 06:10am PT
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Awesome report and pix, guys.
WOW WOW WOW!!!!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Oct 20, 2008 - 07:33am PT
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It's a little known aid climbing fact, Bill, that on the SW Face of El Cap, if you equalize 37 weeds, they will hold body weight. Start with 37 3mm water bottle neck loops, and get creative with couple hundred metres of 1/2" webbing. Complete the placement with a Scream-Aid for full UIAA certification.
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Gene
climber
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Feb 25, 2009 - 07:44am PT
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Big Wall TR Bump!
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Jan 28, 2010 - 03:59pm PT
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BUMP to go with the "Son of Hart" post, This line always inspired me. Fearsome, leaning and leering.
In the dark at a camp fire, people were talking various Yosemite routes. To no one in particular Hugh Burton said; "Son of Heart, the chimneys,5.10 jumaring, ha ha". Didn't need much imagination after hearing that from him!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 28, 2010 - 09:39pm PT
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The Culprit
"Hmmm, I wonder where the Grey Poupon is?"
Samarkand market
(check out the chic bellbottoms!)
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 28, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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Thanks so much for putting in the time and effort for this TR. SOH has always held a certain place in my life. I had planned to do it with a friend of mine in the Spring of '75. I got really sick and ended up in the hospital by the first of June, and missed out. I wish I could relive that Spring/Summer.
My friend, Dave Stutzman(with Maurice from Norway)went ahead and attempted the second ascent. Got within less than a pitch from the top.
He gave me pitch by pitch account. What I recall vividly is his discription of the back to back wide pitches. Kirkegaard and Nietzsche. He led them both with zero pro. Belay to belay. No aid, no bongs, and of course their were no Cams BITD.
Dave Stutzman was a bad azz...RIP Dave!
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Plumbbob
Mountain climber
Juneau, AK
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Jan 28, 2010 - 11:52pm PT
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Just a note, I climbed with Dave in 1977 and his stories of the Son of Heart route were entertaining and educational. I think I have some of his origional slides from his attempt in with some of our other climbing pictures. I'll try to get those scanned and then add them to this thread.
BP
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 29, 2010 - 04:21am PT
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TripL7 - how the heck can someone get within a pitch of the top, and not complete the second ascent? Whether you count the "top" the beginning of the slab, or the very top, none of those pitches up there is hard. I don't get it.
Did they rap the whole route? Get stormed on? Did someone drop them a toprope?
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 29, 2010 - 05:41am PT
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PtPP!
They ran out of water. Dave said he didn't have the energy to high-step his aiders on the overhanging wall(not technically difficult). They were suffering from dehydration. He went up several times but couldn't step up high enough to place a pin. The next pitch(Fat City??)eases off and they would have been home free.
They laid there for about 3-4 days, at which time Chapman and Orey wrapped down to the ledge(Thanksgiving??)and dropped them a line. Dave was hoping someone would lower down a couple liters of water. He felt that he would be able to finish the last(steep)pitch and complete the route. But Mark and Jim had not brought much water(half quart).
That's why Dave was upset in regards to the rescue. He felt that if it was one of there friends they would have brought sufficient water for them to finish the route. They had plenty of food, but they couldn't swallow it without water. He didn't want to be rescued.
Plumbbob! Looking forward to seeing those pics. Thanks!
Trip~
EDIT: Regardless, they were rescued and should have shown more appreciation.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 29, 2010 - 07:56am PT
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What, no love for my portrait of The Culprit?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 29, 2010 - 12:32pm PT
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Reilly,
Obviously none of us has the slightest idea who The Culprit is. How about a name?
TripL7, that is an amazing story! What a terrible way to fail. That would never happen nowadays with cell phones and two-way radios. SOH finishes right of Thanksgiving coming onto the edge of a two-pitch long slab, which is a nasty low-angle drag-fest finish now shared with Sunkist.
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Jan 29, 2010 - 12:35pm PT
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great TR guys...
Bump!!!
Cheers
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TripL7
Trad climber
san diego
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Jan 29, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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PtPP!
Yea, they were about 75 ft below the slab pitches on the overhanging wall! Dave felt as though they could have finished it, or at least made it to the top and left the haul bag until later. If they could have got up to the lower angled pitches.
So it goes.
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Jim Brennan
Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
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Jan 29, 2010 - 04:53pm PT
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PTPP
The culprit looks remarkably like Rick Sylvester.......
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 29, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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Pete,
I assumed (I know) that everybody already knew
what Sylvester looked like, without his Asgard skis on, that is.
I guess I also assumed y'all would make the deduction
based on the thread title; my bad!
ps
posted simultaneously with Jim B
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skywalker
climber
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Jan 30, 2010 - 05:53pm PT
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bump...
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