Son Of Heart - T.R.


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'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
Walleye - I remember watching Ben Wah from well above, when I was on some other route. I am knott sure he finished, however.

You should have seen the look on Ben Wah's face when I told him what his nickname *really* meant - he had no idea.

I think Nanook might have been up there before me and Tom.

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
Better than boobs bump!

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT

In all fairness to Dave Stutzman & his partner Maurice (don't recall his last name) they should be included on that list. They basically climbed the whole route. Dave did the second lead/ascent of those back to back chimneys (Kierkgard & Nietche). They climbed the whole damn route, except for around 1/2-2/3rds of the very last pitch. They, technically, did the 2nd ascent of the whole route (in good style) except for the final overhanging pitch (ran out of water). They should get some credit for doing that. That was the Spring of 1975!

edit: Walleye - Thanks bro!!

Epic indeed. It was both of their's 1st El Cap route (YIKES) and they gave it thier best shot (100+ %) turned out to be an all time epic & memorable, for sure... definately deserves a footnote (at least) in the annals of El Cap history regarding this route. I know DS (RIP) would have definitely appreciated it. thnx again!!

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:43pm PT
Yeah, Splitter you are right. I should amend that list to include their ascent with a small caveat. Their ascent was as epic as Sylvesters first, for sure.

The Ironic Monkey, racked and loaded for the Son of Heart on April 12, 1990
Credit: Walleye

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Feb 1, 2013 - 12:12pm PT
RP3, holler if you need a pard for this one!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
Fifteen or less ascents? Really?


Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
Those esoteric chimneys are tough to drag large ball sacs up through.

Trad climber
Aug 26, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
Walleye- My friend Avary Tichenor did the route with John Barbella in 1986 if I remember correctly. Avary passed away in 1988, R.I.P. He is sorely missed

Aug 26, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
Gary and I did SoH in '86. Barbella and Avery did it a few years before we did - I believe it was '84-ish because I thought they did the 4th ascent. I'll ask John and report back...


Aug 29, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
Talked to Barbella - he said he and Avary did SoH in 80 or 81, 4th or 5th ascent he thinks...

The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 14, 2014 - 03:39pm PT
A "I led my first pitch in the Heart 24 years ago today" bump
Credit: Dave Schultz
Credit: Walleye

EDIT: Revised ascent list to the best of my knowledge
1. Sylvester/Brown. 1971
2. Stutzman/Maurice. 1975 (jugged a line out on last pitch due to dehydration)
3. Graham/Bard. 1977
4. Kauk/Burton. 1978?
5. Karl/Muhe/Heinl. 1980
6. Barbella/Tichenor. 1981
7. Braun/Shipley. 1985
8. Gagner/Thunen. 1986
9. Schultz/Flint. April, 1990
10. Fosburg/Cosgrove. June, 1993
11. Florine/Coward/Schneider. / Sept, 1993 First one push ascent 29:24
12. Ben Wa/Amy.?
13. Sloan/Rivera/Selvidge 2003
14. Zabrock/?
15. Leventhal/Erickson Sept, 2008

The Hot Kiss On the End of a Wet Fist
Jun 5, 2016 - 06:14pm PT
BIG ASS BAD ASS Wall climb bump!

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Jun 6, 2016 - 02:36am PT
I did SOH with PTPP Zabrok in the Fall of 2006 or 2007. It was the same year he busted up his ankle on the Sheep Ranch in the Spring.

It was a great route. I got most of the leads on that one, because PTPP's foot was being held together with metal pins. He probably shouldn't have been up there, at all, after reconstruction surgery. But, we had a great time. It's got a few wild sections, but it's mostly rather moderate.

I lost eight or ten rolls of 35mm film I shot on that route.

The local photo processing company went out of business, and the rental agency chained up the doors while the bankruptcy circus proceeded. The rental agent told me that there was no way to get my photos, but that when the matter was settled, he would have everybody's photos in his office, ready to be picked up. Then, he became angry at the situation's resolution, and just threw out everybody's pictures.

 Tom Kasper


Big Wall climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
Big wall Stokage bump action.

Who's gonna be next up this amazing route?

Ice climber
mogollon rim
Aug 24, 2016 - 05:07am PT
Hey Bill
as of Tom Evan's last report for June it looked like gerberdine and d griff were headed up there
not sure if they sended

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