Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Jun 16, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
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A bump for a great trip report that's close to my heart and also because I have been working on the first 15-or-so documented ascents of Son of Heart. Here is my list. Please feel free to add info, or comment. I am sure the years will need some slight correction
1. Sylvester/Brown 1971
2. Graham/Bard 1977
3. Kauk/Burton 1978?
4. Karl/Muhe/Heinl 1980?
5. Braun/Shipley 1985?
6. Barbella/Tichman 1986??
7. Gagner/Thunen 1986?
8. Schultz/Flint April, 1990
9. Fosburg/Cosgrove June, 1993
10. Florine/Coward/Schneider / Sept, 1993 First one push ascent 29:24
11. Ben Wa/Amy?
12. Zabrock/?
13. Leventhal/Erickson Sept, 2008
14. ?
15. ?
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RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
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Jan 23, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
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Bump for the glory! Next season, this route is goin down!
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Jan 23, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
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Bump for getting out there and getting it done!
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Jan 23, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
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Bump for climbing content, Awesome pictures of a seldom done route killer TR!
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
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Walleye - I remember watching Ben Wah from well above, when I was on some other route. I am knott sure he finished, however.
You should have seen the look on Ben Wah's face when I told him what his nickname *really* meant - he had no idea.
I think Nanook might have been up there before me and Tom.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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Better than boobs bump!
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splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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Walleye,
In all fairness to Dave Stutzman & his partner Maurice (don't recall his last name) they should be included on that list. They basically climbed the whole route. Dave did the second lead/ascent of those back to back chimneys (Kierkgard & Nietche). They climbed the whole damn route, except for around 1/2-2/3rds of the very last pitch. They, technically, did the 2nd ascent of the whole route (in good style) except for the final overhanging pitch (ran out of water). They should get some credit for doing that. That was the Spring of 1975!
edit: Walleye - Thanks bro!!
Epic indeed. It was both of their's 1st El Cap route (YIKES) and they gave it thier best shot (100+ %) turned out to be an all time epic & memorable, for sure... definately deserves a footnote (at least) in the annals of El Cap history regarding this route. I know DS (RIP) would have definitely appreciated it. thnx again!!
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Walleye
climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
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Jan 23, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
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Yeah, Splitter you are right. I should amend that list to include their ascent with a small caveat. Their ascent was as epic as Sylvesters first, for sure.
The Ironic Monkey, racked and loaded for the Son of Heart on April 12, 1990
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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RP3, holler if you need a pard for this one!
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SuperTopo on the Web
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