Son Of Heart - T.R.

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Messages 121 - 135 of total 135 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jun 16, 2012 - 05:59pm PT
A bump for a great trip report that's close to my heart and also because I have been working on the first 15-or-so documented ascents of Son of Heart. Here is my list. Please feel free to add info, or comment. I am sure the years will need some slight correction

1. Sylvester/Brown 1971
2. Graham/Bard 1977
3. Kauk/Burton 1978?
4. Karl/Muhe/Heinl 1980?
5. Braun/Shipley 1985?
6. Barbella/Tichman 1986??
7. Gagner/Thunen 1986?
8. Schultz/Flint April, 1990
9. Fosburg/Cosgrove June, 1993
10. Florine/Coward/Schneider / Sept, 1993 First one push ascent 29:24
11. Ben Wa/Amy?
12. Zabrock/?
13. Leventhal/Erickson Sept, 2008
14. ?
15. ?
RP3

Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
Jan 23, 2013 - 01:33pm PT
Bump for the glory! Next season, this route is goin down!
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:07pm PT
Bump for getting out there and getting it done!
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Jan 23, 2013 - 07:22pm PT
Bump for climbing content, Awesome pictures of a seldom done route killer TR!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:28pm PT
Walleye - I remember watching Ben Wah from well above, when I was on some other route. I am knott sure he finished, however.

You should have seen the look on Ben Wah's face when I told him what his nickname *really* meant - he had no idea.

I think Nanook might have been up there before me and Tom.
Kalimon

Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Better than boobs bump!
splitter

Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
Walleye,

In all fairness to Dave Stutzman & his partner Maurice (don't recall his last name) they should be included on that list. They basically climbed the whole route. Dave did the second lead/ascent of those back to back chimneys (Kierkgard & Nietche). They climbed the whole damn route, except for around 1/2-2/3rds of the very last pitch. They, technically, did the 2nd ascent of the whole route (in good style) except for the final overhanging pitch (ran out of water). They should get some credit for doing that. That was the Spring of 1975!

edit: Walleye - Thanks bro!!

Epic indeed. It was both of their's 1st El Cap route (YIKES) and they gave it thier best shot (100+ %) turned out to be an all time epic & memorable, for sure... definately deserves a footnote (at least) in the annals of El Cap history regarding this route. I know DS (RIP) would have definitely appreciated it. thnx again!!
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Jan 23, 2013 - 08:43pm PT
Yeah, Splitter you are right. I should amend that list to include their ascent with a small caveat. Their ascent was as epic as Sylvesters first, for sure.

The Ironic Monkey, racked and loaded for the Son of Heart on April 12, 1990
Credit: Walleye
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Feb 1, 2013 - 09:12am PT
RP3, holler if you need a pard for this one!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Aug 26, 2013 - 12:08pm PT
Fifteen or less ascents? Really?

Cool!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 26, 2013 - 12:13pm PT
Those esoteric chimneys are tough to drag large ball sacs up through.
rollingstone

Trad climber
Seattle
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
Walleye- My friend Avary Tichenor did the route with John Barbella in 1986 if I remember correctly. Avary passed away in 1988, R.I.P. He is sorely missed
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Aug 26, 2013 - 07:37pm PT
Gary and I did SoH in '86. Barbella and Avery did it a few years before we did - I believe it was '84-ish because I thought they did the 4th ascent. I'll ask John and report back...

Paul
Gagner

climber
Boulder
Aug 29, 2013 - 05:55pm PT
Talked to Barbella - he said he and Avary did SoH in 80 or 81, 4th or 5th ascent he thinks...
Walleye

climber
The Hot Kiss on the end of a Wet Fist
Apr 14, 2014 - 12:39pm PT
A "I led my first pitch in the Heart 24 years ago today" bump
Credit: Dave Schultz
Credit: Walleye

EDIT: Revised ascent list to the best of my knowledge
1. Sylvester/Brown. 1971
2. Stutzman/Maurice. 1975 (jugged a line out on last pitch due to dehydration)
3. Graham/Bard. 1977
4. Kauk/Burton. 1978?
5. Karl/Muhe/Heinl. 1980
6. Barbella/Tichenor. 1981
7. Braun/Shipley. 1985
8. Gagner/Thunen. 1986
9. Schultz/Flint. April, 1990
10. Fosburg/Cosgrove. June, 1993
11. Florine/Coward/Schneider. / Sept, 1993 First one push ascent 29:24
12. Ben Wa/Amy.?
13. Sloan/Rivera/Selvidge 2003
14. Zabrock/?
15. Leventhal/Erickson Sept, 2008
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