Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Old timer
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
|
Rick, my dear old chum:
40 years ago you dragged this timid climbing rabbit up El Cap. I still have nightmares about some of pendulums following you. I was pretty much resigned to the fact that we were both going to die when you ran out the whole 50 meters on the bomb bay chimney without placing any pro. I actually negotiated a deal with god that if he got me out alive I would go back to England and open an Antique store in Brighton. Still on my bucket list, I guess.
Anytime you are up in the top left hand corner you are welcome to my hammock/ bed/ bunk. This time we'll have enough water. Likely something stronger
You going to the Vagabond reunion in September? I am going to be lecturing in Sydney, Aus so will miss it.
I'm still out there on my telemarks every winter. Off this morning to go climbing with my daughter on Mt Erie, an amusing pimple that looks out through the Straits of Juan de Fuca. Then we are sailing down to Deception Pass to catch the sunset.
Beauregards old pal. Nice to hear you're still alive and kicking...Claude..Seattle
PS Thanks Levy, the pictures nailed it. The flame burns in you, mate
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 01:39pm PT
|
Rick,
That is shocking about Steve. I was fondly thinking of him a day or two ago.
At least he went doing what he loved and quickly I hope. Well, I'm off for
my age-related colonoscopy - Woo Hoo!
ps
Here's one from your dental procedure in Dushanbe...
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 29, 2011 - 07:58pm PT
|
How cool is it that he posted up on here!
Absolutely f-ing amazing.
Welcome to ST Claude!!
|
|
fosburg
climber
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 09:21pm PT
|
Very cool to hear from the first ascent team! Always curious what was up with the philosophers. The Keirkegaard pitch is by far the most proud but Nietzsche is held in such comparatively high regard as a thinker it seems. I'm a huge fan of SK however and am so glad such an amazing pitch bears his name. Well done on one of the truly classic lines on El Cap.
|
|
Ezra Ellis
Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
|
|
|
Jul 29, 2011 - 09:32pm PT
|
Stellar photography!!!!! I'm not worthy!!!
-e
|
|
Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jul 30, 2011 - 11:34am PT
|
A thread that just keeps on ticking.
|
|
RP3
Big Wall climber
El Portal/Chapel Hill
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 04:33pm PT
|
Bump for the glory! Next season, this route is goin down!
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
|
Bump for getting out there and getting it done!
|
|
Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 10:22pm PT
|
Bump for climbing content, Awesome pictures of a seldom done route killer TR!
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:28pm PT
|
Walleye - I remember watching Ben Wah from well above, when I was on some other route. I am knott sure he finished, however.
You should have seen the look on Ben Wah's face when I told him what his nickname *really* meant - he had no idea.
I think Nanook might have been up there before me and Tom.
|
|
Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
|
Better than boobs bump!
|
|
splitter
Trad climber
Cali Hodad, surfing the galactic plane ~:~
|
|
|
Jan 23, 2013 - 11:34pm PT
|
Walleye,
In all fairness to Dave Stutzman & his partner Maurice (don't recall his last name) they should be included on that list. They basically climbed the whole route. Dave did the second lead/ascent of those back to back chimneys (Kierkgard & Nietche). They climbed the whole damn route, except for around 1/2-2/3rds of the very last pitch. They, technically, did the 2nd ascent of the whole route (in good style) except for the final overhanging pitch (ran out of water). They should get some credit for doing that. That was the Spring of 1975!
edit: Walleye - Thanks bro!!
Epic indeed. It was both of their's 1st El Cap route (YIKES) and they gave it thier best shot (100+ %) turned out to be an all time epic & memorable, for sure... definately deserves a footnote (at least) in the annals of El Cap history regarding this route. I know DS (RIP) would have definitely appreciated it. thnx again!!
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
|
|
RP3, holler if you need a pard for this one!
|
|
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:08pm PT
|
Fifteen or less ascents? Really?
Cool!
|
|
Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2013 - 03:13pm PT
|
Those esoteric chimneys are tough to drag large ball sacs up through.
|
|
rollingstone
Trad climber
Seattle
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2013 - 06:59pm PT
|
Walleye- My friend Avary Tichenor did the route with John Barbella in 1986 if I remember correctly. Avary passed away in 1988, R.I.P. He is sorely missed
|
|
Gagner
climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2013 - 10:37pm PT
|
Gary and I did SoH in '86. Barbella and Avery did it a few years before we did - I believe it was '84-ish because I thought they did the 4th ascent. I'll ask John and report back...
Paul
|
|
Gagner
climber
Boulder
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2013 - 08:55pm PT
|
Talked to Barbella - he said he and Avary did SoH in 80 or 81, 4th or 5th ascent he thinks...
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
I did SOH with PTPP Zabrok in the Fall of 2006 or 2007. It was the same year he busted up his ankle on the Sheep Ranch in the Spring.
It was a great route. I got most of the leads on that one, because PTPP's foot was being held together with metal pins. He probably shouldn't have been up there, at all, after reconstruction surgery. But, we had a great time. It's got a few wild sections, but it's mostly rather moderate.
I lost eight or ten rolls of 35mm film I shot on that route.
The local photo processing company went out of business, and the rental agency chained up the doors while the bankruptcy circus proceeded. The rental agent told me that there was no way to get my photos, but that when the matter was settled, he would have everybody's photos in his office, ready to be picked up. Then, he became angry at the situation's resolution, and just threw out everybody's pictures.
 Tom Kasper
|
|
Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 23, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
|
Big wall Stokage bump action.
Who's gonna be next up this amazing route?
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!