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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 26, 2008 - 10:50pm PT
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That dude should have been placing more gear than that.. And was looking so solid up until that last couple of hand moves...
Fool
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Aug 26, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
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dude, he had a perfect stance to place pro, and didn't.. got sketched on the layback and f'd it up.... yeah, rememeber.. rock, rope, legs.... no way let that rope behind your leg, lucky, real lucky.
I'm befuddled why he didn't put pro in.... maybe he used up his rack, was unprepared, or was just macho and foolish... hope he learned from he experience.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:23am PT
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The Guy with the Animal Nickname used to say, "the leader doesn't lie-back, the leader doesn't fall". Don't know if it was an 'if...then' statement or a command. In either case, wish that guy'd heard it.
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ricardo-sf
Sport climber
San Francisco
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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he definately pulled a piece during that fall ..
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randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
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Aug 27, 2008 - 11:03pm PT
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Hey!! That's me in the video you dicks!! WTF, I can totally send .11a in the gym in like 4 trys!! Im not stoopid or a newby ( you guys mispelled it NOOB).
-JR
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 29, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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The climb in the video is located in the "Wawona Tunnel: West End" area. Looking at the topo, it might be "Eat at Degnan's 5.9+ *" lieback.
I'll admit I cheated a bit in getting this info - I signed up for a youtube account and simply asked the guy who posted the video. He also stated there was a way to go around left to set up a toprope instead of leading it, and that they were lucky the guy did not get seriously hurt. So I think they have learned from this close call and hopefully will not end up in some more serious accident.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 29, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
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Noob bump...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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Confirmed - the climb is Eat at Degnan's 5.9+, at Wawona Tunnel West End. Below are the photos to compare to the youtube clip.
The upper crux is a barndoor lieback flake, and looks to be .5 - 1". So no handjams are available for stopping to place gear, even though the fuzzy video may have suggested that. There does appear to be a foothold on the flake low in the upper part where one might stop to place a cam. The flaring part just below that is where the leader's red-slinged cam pulled.
view from under trees
view from top of trees
zoom on crux
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shutupandclimb
climber
Palm Desert Ca.
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Sep 14, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
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I think I on-sited that climb on my second(or third) try on top-rope once............HA!
"If your not flyin' your not tryin", right? or is it "If your not flying your not Dying". I'll ask my friend at the Gym he's been climbing indoors like 6 months and knows everything.
Seriously,
Dude was in too deep and had to look good for the Camera at all costs.
Hope he learned something.
SUAC
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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> I think I on-sited that climb on my second(or third) try on top-rope once............HA!
:-)
> Seriously,
>
> Dude was in too deep and had to look good for the Camera at all costs.
Maybe, but insufficient evidence to conclude that, I think. On those barn-door laybacks, you tend to get committed, and it's hard to downclimb or stop to place gear. So going up may have seemed like the best way out for him. It was almost a big disaster, though.
Best is to have the jamming technique to be able to hang on with one hand and place gear without fear of falling off in the process. Also you need to bring enough cams of the right sizes so you don't run out....
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