Discussion Topic |
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dolomite_said
Gym climber
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) . . . Buffering
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 25, 2008 - 05:40pm PT
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This came up on my subscriptions a while ago (it's not me / it's not my video) . I wasn't sure if it was already posted , but . . . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZTQcbnfiEYk
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 25, 2008 - 05:50pm PT
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ouch !
all i can make out on his harness is some hexes - it didn't look like the pro was bad ? is it a flare there or what ?
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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it wasn't so much that the gear was bad, as much as the leaders decision myt to place more of it. when he brought his right foot way up like that, i knew he was hosed...
actually, if you watch where the rope is as he goes up into that layback just before he falls, he is a prety lucky guy!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:21pm PT
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Ouch.
Anybody know what route it is? He did run it out quite a bit. More than I'd like.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
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that sh#t skeevs me out man
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
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Does anybody recognize the climb?
"... week climbing in Yosemite ... we suffered our third fall ..."
The guy liebacks up, looks like maybe he does not know how to use a hand jam to stop to place gear. He places no gear in the upper section of the climb. His foot slips and he gasps. His buddy on the ground yells up "You got it." "You got it." He keeps liebacking, then falls from near the top. Hits the midway block with his foot on the way down.
No analysis by the guy who posted the video. Clearly since the guy was that sketchy on the lieback, he should have stopped partway up to place gear for protection. Why did his friend yell up "you got it" instead of "can you get in some gear?" ?
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:26pm PT
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Yikes, No helmet, he could have easily died with a good knock on the noggin.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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pro has its uses...
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atchafalaya
climber
Babylon
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:33pm PT
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Kudos for going for it.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
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Rather demanding afterwards, as well, esp. for a guy who couldn't be bothered to put any gear in...
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 25, 2008 - 06:55pm PT
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i was watching that rope behind his foot the whole time... too many climbers are completely unaware that the cord probably shouldn't be used to insure a head first dive. Remember the article in R&I with Pizem? Freeing Arcturus he committed to a lieback across his rope and wham-o, broken back. Ugly stuff. Lest it be a lesson...
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Aug 25, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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My palms were sweating knowing he was gonna peel.
"I think I broke my foot again."
AGAIN!? He did this before?
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Aug 25, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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Military? Just a guess from the haircuts.
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Aug 25, 2008 - 07:59pm PT
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yeah - you'd think he would have treated the pillar like the ledge that it was and sunk two or three pieces in the first 15 feet off it...oh well. just be glad he didn't smash his brains out i suppose...
i bet he coulda got a couple hexes in too ;-) more cowbell !!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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" ...Kudos for going for it. "
I don't think so.
How many good climbers would let that happen? (By "good" I am not talking 5.whatever, just "heads up" folks?)
I'm glad the guy didn't die, etc., but that is just the kind of idiocy that will bring in rules like "you have to wear a helmet," or "you have to take a test to lead," etc. I can see us all, 10 years from now, with little color coded tags on our harnessess to certify what we can and cannot do.
Still, in the bigger picture, good the guy didn't get killed.
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Gene
climber
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
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Opportunities missed. Hope Dude is OK.
GM
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fear
Ice climber
hartford, ct
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Aug 25, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
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Yeah.... laybacking sucks that way as far as getting and gear goes...
Poor bastard.. My one bad lead fall was a similiar burly and nasty layback. Although I wasn't THAT far over my gear!
-Fear
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:07pm PT
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GDavis, that clip is pretty wild ~~~ At first I thought it was staged, but on second look, you see they guy's handhold break.
Shivers!
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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What a bunch of fools. Way too many mistakes.
I don't like hearing "you got it" from the ground. It makes it sound as if the guy on the ground knows exactly what is going on with both me and the route. It's just spray, really, with them letting everyone know they've been there or that they think they know my climbing abilities that well. The reality is only I know what's going on and I'll decide what to do based on that. It should be more like golf where you either stfu, or say something less conditional like "nice job" or "way to go" - "you got it" usually just pisses me off - and what if I don't "get it" - the comment becomes negative like "you had it but blew it.."
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
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Breathe, review the basics, learn how to use a rack and take it...
also, don't climb with that guy.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 25, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
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I like the way the videographer immediately drops the camera to offer assistance, jeez, who was the real meathead here?
"Let me zoom in on the blood, can you turn this way please..."
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:05pm PT
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As I sit here nursing my own broken talus, that was rather uncomfortable to watch. However, I'm with Fet; my favorite part is where he says "I think I broke my foot again." So who are you are all to say he doesn't know what he was doing? Sounds like he knew exactly what he was doing - breaking his foot AGAIN!! And Dr. Rock, the videographer knew that the guy trying to help stand the leader up on his feet clearly had things under control.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:09pm PT
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Good point, willow hug boy.
Anybody who breaks their foot twice, just gotta know what they are doing. Important safety note, all!
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drgonzo
Trad climber
east bay, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:27pm PT
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Dumbass.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
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I think this thread may be even funnier by my NOT bothering to load the video.
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Paul Martzen
Trad climber
Fresno
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
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If you watch the video closely during the fall you can see his top piece pull out. It looks to be about chest height when he was standing on the pillar. The rope is visible as a sharp angle, then disappears. I think you can sort of see the runner as he climbs up from the pillar as well, though that is not as clear. So he placed a bad piece from the rest and could not let go long enough to place another one. His partners were not yelling at him to place more gear, so I suspect none of them were terribly experienced on trad. It does not look like he even attempts to place more gear, so it is hard to know if he fully realized his danger.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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Idiot for sure, and you know it coz.
There were ample places to stop and place a piece. That guy had no buisness running it out like that. He was damn lucky.
Only pros should run it out like that ......
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
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When he's about 6-8 feet off the pillar I can't shut off my reflex to tell him to put in something.
Then it's hard to watch his feet sketching on several lieback moves in a row when he had a bomber footjam everywhere to just stand up and rest and shake it out and place something, etc....
It was more hard for me to watch the lead-up to the main event than the fall itself.
Edit: I've done plenty of stupid stuff while climbing. But unnecessarily running out sections with solid gear when I'm shaky on the climbing is not one of them.
Edit edit: But I have proceeded on climbs with crappy gear when I'm iffy on the climbing... introspective moment... no, it was just a burp.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
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what an amateur, no sense of fall distance and placing pro.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Aug 25, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
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hey there ... say, just my odd comment here, hope i am not out of line... but say:
since you all are able to see what he was unlearned and unskilled to, is there anyway that you can post a "share note on this subject" over at the you-tube, and perhaps WARN him on some of these key issues---or is that one of those "they will just tear your comments to pieces" kind of place.... ?
going by what you all have chipped in here, it is very sad to think he may one day die before he reaches his proper decernment level (edit, not meaning to insult the young man, but, going by what folks feel the web cam showed, etc)...
well, was just wondering... maybe he will take a peek at supertopo some day? (edit, or places where folks can help coach?)... maybe a simple invite, may help? ....
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Aug 25, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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Ground fall you die. Why did he not place a cam in the good crack for God's sake so close to terra firma
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Aug 25, 2008 - 11:15pm PT
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All Hail to Weschrist and Werner who obviously have never made a mistake while climbing, and have always used all good prudence in every decision they have made in climbing and in life. I'm sorry you guys but your self-righteousness and insensitivity with regards to this incident is stunning. Lighten Up !!!!
Cracko
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 25, 2008 - 11:32pm PT
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Which route is it, again?
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:59am PT
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The route is called "AManHasGotToKnowHisLimitations"
From Joe's Jottings:
"Ignorance vs Stupidity
I'm ignorant.
I know nothing about nuclear fusion.
I am absolutely unknowledgeable about the grocery business.
I am ignorant.
Ignorance is not a bad thing.
We are all ignorant about something or somethings.
I don't mind being ignorant, since nobody knows all there is to know about everything ('though some would lead you to believe that they do).
What I hate is STUPIDITY.
STUPIDITY is constantly ignoring the facts, acting like the facts have no significance or being unable to draw a correct conclusion from a given set of facts."
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Doug Buchanan
Mountain climber
Fairbanks Alaska
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Aug 26, 2008 - 04:27am PT
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"Learn to climb from a guide."? "Learn to climb from a guide."?
Coz must be a guide, like a politician suggesting that you learn the truth from politicians.
I learned how to fight wars from the best guides the US government claims. And we have lost every war since WWII (minimum ten and counting).
Never learn from a guide. Their interest is money, not knowledge, or they would be advancing their knowledge rather than making money from having learned just enough to fool fools for their money.
Is it not interesting that the transfer of knowledge by male-preference words is being again over-taken by the transfer of knowledge by female-preference pictures (YouTube)? You have no choice in the matter, by design of your brain. As a generality, females learned more knowledge from that video, than males, regardless of the words the males add.
Yet another reason to climb solo on a Soloist, so your inherent percentage of mistakes in a dangerous game are not witnessed to embarrass you.
The guy was an idiot for allowing the camera person to have a video rather than a still camera, or not having sufficient information to cause the camera person to conclude the wisdom of not publishing the footage.
That was obviously a very common fall. Without them, you would have pursued a more dangerous hobby, or you would not be a climber.
Doug
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 26, 2008 - 08:09am PT
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The guy had gear opportunities...That had to hurt.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Aug 26, 2008 - 10:44am PT
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I watched all 3 youtube videos and all I can say is IDIOTS one and all. No excuses..I am glad they all lived but at this rate it won't be long before the don't.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 12:33pm PT
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Doug-
Well Coz is indeed a guide but give me a break. Half the people on this forum have probably guided or done some instruction at one point or another. I flailed around with my teenage friends and nearly killed ourselves plenty of times until I got some guide instruction which gave me a solid foundation of experience to safely work from. Saying "never hire a guide" is like saying "never go to college" or "never seek instruction from professionals."
Basically, you must not actually know any guides, or else you never would have made such a ridiculous statement.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Aug 26, 2008 - 12:34pm PT
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dude shoulda fired in a piece. If I was belaying him I woulda made him... hope he's alright...
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
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Weschrist,
With all due respect I have never advocated a macho "go for it, you got it" attitude. In fact, I'm quite the opposite. Unlike you, I have never had to rescue or recover broken-up or lifeless bodies from a climb as a result of inexperience or bad judgement. I have witnessed my share of completely uneccessary
climbing accidents. I agree that climbing is about knowing your limits and finding a CONSCIOUS balance between pushing your limits and living to do it again. However, you can't legislate or compell good judgement or good decision making. In fact, experience and good decision making often come from making "stupid" mistakes in the past. What ya gonna do Weschrist?? How are ya gonna control stupidity so the stupid don't ruin it for the rest of us ??? Simply calling people stupid ain't gonna do it !
A Respectful Cracko
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:16pm PT
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The sad things is I've seen folks climb that way.
Way scary.
The whole time, I'm yelling "Put in some PRO!! Dude!"
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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How many folks here did not have a mentor that showed them the ropes?? Whether you paid for it or not, those mentors were your guides.
The bloke in the first vid obviously had no mentor.
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Jim E
climber
Mountain Road
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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I'm standing by for the "rope stretch warning" thread.
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scuffy b
climber
Elmertown
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:21pm PT
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His first broken foot may not have been related to climbing.
While I agree that was a stupid lead, for all the reasons
people have brought up, it's quite an assumption that this
guy hurts himself climbing as a matter of routine.
But Man, he really blew it.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 26, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
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I'm pretty happy we didn't have video and internetz when I was a n00b.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
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i've spent the last day or so since watching this vid trying to recall if, when i was first learning to lead, i did anything as patently unwise as the guy in this video. i don't think i did. i was so hyper-aware of the risk when i was leading that i basically didn't get very far above my pro unless i was way, way solid. as well, i'd usually be pretty reluctant to go for it if i didn't know the pro was bomber.
generally speaking, i came closest to getting myself killed long after i had the whole climbing thing ruthlessly dialed.
i guess the moral here is when you are starting out, it's best to understand that there is much you don't know, and to behave accordingly. me and my buds were self-taught; we were the classic "hitchhike to the crags with mom's washing line" kind of crew. nobody showed us how to use a stopper -- we shoplifted a few from stanley andrew's sporting goods store and goofed around with them on the ground until we figured it out.
my first many, many leads were on routes so well within my comfort zone that i could focus all my attention on ropes and gear and getting that stuff dialed. i didn't start leading at my limit until i had three or four hundred climbing days under my belt.
i hate to say this, but it's been noted many times before and it's worth noting again: the vast majority of today's beginners learn to climb in a gym. they do the 5.11 pink route a few times, then jump on a 5.10 crack route in yosemite. the results are woefully predictable.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
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yes, it's true that most of us spent hundreds of hours on rough ground up high before we ever stole a clothesline, but then I bet that if we could rerun young bvb we'd find plenty of non-standard moments.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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my god kerwin, your doug buchanan impersonation is spot on. you should think about turning pro, for serious.
i enhance the transfer of my mind's thoughts from one fooled fool to another fooled fool imbued with ample capacity for non sequiters robustly!
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 03:54pm PT
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I, like bvb, was (and still am) a pretty cautious leader. If I'm run out on tough terrain it's because I'm in shape mentally and physically and really solid, not because I think it'll look cooler. I have climbed with guys like the one in that video though. Guys who are doing something sketchy for god knows what reason. The caption on the YouTube video by the guy who posted it eluded to the "irony" that here it was their last day and this guy gets hurt on merely a single pitch climb. This shows a bit of naivete on his part, so it seems pretty obvious this was a troop of pretty beginner climbers.
I don't find this very sobering. Sobering would have been a video of a guy doing everything right and STILL decking. Actually that would be terrifying since we all kind of live with this illusion that if we do everything "right" we will be ok. This kid did nearly everything wrong, which I find heartening. I hope he heals up ok and goes on to live his life with a little more thought.
*edit* Cracko you should probably talk to Werner with a little more reverence. Considering the amount of bold stuff he has done, for the length of time he has done it I'd say he is being pretty damn careful.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Aug 26, 2008 - 04:53pm PT
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bvb: "[Y]our doug buchanan impersonation is spot on."
Was it the "non-standard moments"? I rather liked that. How about "non-Stannard moments"?
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:16pm PT
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Glad to see he fell on the first pitch.
Was that a multi-pitch route?
No biggy, he seems to be somewhat O.K, i mean when a Kayaker swims, we don't make too big a deal about it.
Just the nature of the game, a fall.
Nothing new, eh?
Gravity has been around since the creation of this present Universe, but how would I know that, I ain't no frickin Cosmologist, somebody wake up Stephen, I have a few questions.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
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Even my encyclopedia-of-yosemite bf couldn't recognize that route. Anyone? Beuhler?
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
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personally, i don't think that's yosemite. the vegetation looks all wrong, and the route is a total mystery. if it was in the valley someone woulda i.d.'d it by now.
the veritable mysterious nature of the robustly cloven granite led the foolishly foolish su'topians to inveterate cogitation and inane musing on the origen of the climb. luckily, the haplessly foolhardy adventurers depicted in the covertly captured surveillance tape -- national farce service rangers, no doubt -- made no mistake as to disavowing their need for a so-called "guide", who would have accomplished no purpose but to deprive them of their picuniary sustenance while availing them naught but his questionable "wisdom."
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Aug 26, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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I couldn't recognize it either...
but it did look like he lost his right foot (slick, no doubt) and that at least a couple of pieces pulled. Should have put in something higher.
The dialog is interesting....
dude 1: ...inaudible...
dude 2: "ya"
dude 1: "if he falls right now he's dead"
dude 2: "no he's not"
dude 3: "you got it ..."
climber dude: whimpering sounds
dude 3: "you got it, you got it"
climber dude: "don't talk to me ... , I've really got to concentrate"
climber dude: "SH#T!, OH!"
dude ?: "OH!"
dude ?: "are you all right?"
dude ?: "let go of the rope, let go of the rope"
climber dude: "ok"
dude ?: "are you ok?"
climber dude: "YES!"
dude ?: "are you hurt?"
climber dude: "I DON'T KNOW, I've got so much adrenaline, my butt could be broken"
dude ?: "a little help"
dude ?: "ok"
dude ?: "undo your legs, undo your legs"
climber dude: "I can't " more whimpering & hurting sounds
climber dude: "ohhh! DON"T SET ME ON MY FEET! don't set me on my feet!"
dude 2: "lay him down, lay him down, lay him down"
climber dude: "ohh, ohh, I think I broke a foot again"
dude ?: "find something to put under his head"
dude 2: "lay him down, lay him down"
dude ?: "here you go"
dude 2: "grab the other rope, grab the other rope"
dude 2: "uh oh, SH#T"
climber dude: "that's life"
dude 2: "huh?"
climber dude: "THAT'S LIFE"
climber dude: "undo this shoe please, now!"
dude 2: "ya"
In my book, not "that's life."
I hope the climber dude is ok, and I hope that he is healing. But I sure hope that someone informs him in a rather stern manner that he was being a stupid as#@&%e, not a climber. My guess is that he was the experienced guy of the group, he was the mentor.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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Aug 26, 2008 - 06:05pm PT
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What the fuch is it with the lieback? Its a jam problem with great pro.
Juan
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 26, 2008 - 07:05pm PT
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Here's an obscurity, and a reminder never to stop belaying until you get word from the sharp end. (Take her from the 2:30 mark):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=To8ToBQuF7s
Strangest, most avoidable fall, everybody was ok; Cochamo Valley, Chile.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Aug 26, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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That was weird Bruce. It looks like a piece blew up high, and it was a grounder from that piece.
I think he was still 'on belay'. Right at the beginning of the slow-mo you can see the higher piece that ripped out.
Still weird how he slid out.
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Dr. Rock
Ice climber
Castle Rock
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Aug 26, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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OK, next guy who falls spends a year confined to the Gym.
And if you die while climbing, I swear I will never speak to you again.
You should only climb as high as your I.Q.
This guy was in 20 feet over his head.
Climb at 1/3 your ability and you will never fall.
Then just upgrade your ability if you want more fun.
But don't go over 1/3 otherwise you might be meat on a rope.
Any free solo Cannabis climbers out there?
Then again, how would you know?
They are too sneaky to spot, paranoid weirdos, lurking about in the brush.
Stains on their pants from constantly jerking off, fot the love of God, why won't somebody do something about this problem?
Nancy, I love ya baby!
Just say No!
Wait, she's worm feed, right?
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Aug 26, 2008 - 10:50pm PT
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That dude should have been placing more gear than that.. And was looking so solid up until that last couple of hand moves...
Fool
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dougs510
Social climber
down south
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Aug 26, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
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dude, he had a perfect stance to place pro, and didn't.. got sketched on the layback and f'd it up.... yeah, rememeber.. rock, rope, legs.... no way let that rope behind your leg, lucky, real lucky.
I'm befuddled why he didn't put pro in.... maybe he used up his rack, was unprepared, or was just macho and foolish... hope he learned from he experience.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Aug 27, 2008 - 12:23am PT
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The Guy with the Animal Nickname used to say, "the leader doesn't lie-back, the leader doesn't fall". Don't know if it was an 'if...then' statement or a command. In either case, wish that guy'd heard it.
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ricardo-sf
Sport climber
San Francisco
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Aug 27, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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he definately pulled a piece during that fall ..
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randomtask
climber
North fork, CA
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Aug 27, 2008 - 11:03pm PT
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Hey!! That's me in the video you dicks!! WTF, I can totally send .11a in the gym in like 4 trys!! Im not stoopid or a newby ( you guys mispelled it NOOB).
-JR
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Aug 29, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
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The climb in the video is located in the "Wawona Tunnel: West End" area. Looking at the topo, it might be "Eat at Degnan's 5.9+ *" lieback.
I'll admit I cheated a bit in getting this info - I signed up for a youtube account and simply asked the guy who posted the video. He also stated there was a way to go around left to set up a toprope instead of leading it, and that they were lucky the guy did not get seriously hurt. So I think they have learned from this close call and hopefully will not end up in some more serious accident.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
up Yonder (someplace else)
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Aug 29, 2008 - 05:32pm PT
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Noob bump...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 14, 2008 - 08:37pm PT
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Confirmed - the climb is Eat at Degnan's 5.9+, at Wawona Tunnel West End. Below are the photos to compare to the youtube clip.
The upper crux is a barndoor lieback flake, and looks to be .5 - 1". So no handjams are available for stopping to place gear, even though the fuzzy video may have suggested that. There does appear to be a foothold on the flake low in the upper part where one might stop to place a cam. The flaring part just below that is where the leader's red-slinged cam pulled.
view from under trees
view from top of trees
zoom on crux
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shutupandclimb
climber
Palm Desert Ca.
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Sep 14, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
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I think I on-sited that climb on my second(or third) try on top-rope once............HA!
"If your not flyin' your not tryin", right? or is it "If your not flying your not Dying". I'll ask my friend at the Gym he's been climbing indoors like 6 months and knows everything.
Seriously,
Dude was in too deep and had to look good for the Camera at all costs.
Hope he learned something.
SUAC
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Sep 15, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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> I think I on-sited that climb on my second(or third) try on top-rope once............HA!
:-)
> Seriously,
>
> Dude was in too deep and had to look good for the Camera at all costs.
Maybe, but insufficient evidence to conclude that, I think. On those barn-door laybacks, you tend to get committed, and it's hard to downclimb or stop to place gear. So going up may have seemed like the best way out for him. It was almost a big disaster, though.
Best is to have the jamming technique to be able to hang on with one hand and place gear without fear of falling off in the process. Also you need to bring enough cams of the right sizes so you don't run out....
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