Limits to Free Climbing in Yosemite

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another nickname

Social climber
Yazoo Ms
Nov 8, 2018 - 09:03pm PT
I don't fully understand what to make of Mr. Hartouni's spread sheet. Interesting stuff though.

Couldn't they make a machine, equipped with radar, that could accurately grade climbs? Input would be measuring micro-topography of surface added to some theory of human capabilities based on lots of physics stuff.

Then, obviously, at the end, you'd throw in the super-science of YDS (perhaps using a funnel), mix for five minutes, and then push a button!

Doesn't the original question get to be like how it is, if you keep walking half way to the wall, and then half-way to the wall, etc., etc., you'll never get there? ("There" being the absolutely impossible.).

Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Nov 8, 2018 - 09:11pm PT
The spirit is not bound by gravity.

Let us not forget.
PinkTaco

Mountain climber
Utah
Nov 8, 2018 - 09:57pm PT

This thread is a little like listening to the Senators in DC talk about the internet... I'm just sayin'.
Loyd

Big Wall climber
Roseburg, OR
Nov 9, 2018 - 09:17am PT
I seem to remember when we were having the same discussion about how hard the climbs and the rating could go back in camp four in 1970. We were trying to define 5.10 and looking for 5.11. New gear and indoor gyms helped advance climbing then.
Trump

climber
Nov 9, 2018 - 09:34am PT
Is this a climbing thread or a what is mind/religion vs science thread?

Sure you gross materialists can use your little machines to try to quantify 5.16, but in the end yer just gonna have to bow down to how objectively awesome humans in general, and climbers in particular, are, for the superlative ways we rate the unique awesomeness our own experiences.
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Nov 9, 2018 - 12:21pm PT
I watched that Ondra film in Reel Rock 13 last night.

Apparently the limit of free climbing is how well you can lie on your back and grunt and squirm while visualizing.

Video was kinda like watching a dude masturbate. Embarrassing.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 9, 2018 - 06:39pm PT
This thread is a little like listening to the Senators in DC talk about the internet... I'm just sayin'.

that's your opinion of course, whoever you are.
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 9, 2018 - 07:50pm PT
Better get a good nights sleep on the Block because now the route actually gets HARD. That 200' 12d corner is no joke really and neither is the sandbagged, scary as hell 12a traverse but that's ok the next 150' overhanging 5.11d pitch will pump you out just enough for the overhanging 5.11d Scotty Burke OW, grease-fest, horror-show...seriously how many people just rope up and fire that thing first go?

I would really like to see it go down, how awesome would this be but man really it could be 10 years maybe more-I hope I am wrong.

I was just reading somewhere that Ondra came close to onsighting Freerider just before his Dawn Wall climb. He bonked on the headwall. What I read must be on the Ondra thread. I'll find the post when I have more time.

EDIT... From the Ondra is Coming thread: Adam Ondra:

"Salathe was a dream of mine for a long time. A dream of just being up there, feeling the air and exposure of the "headwall" (upper part of Salathe which is the crux), putting my hands into perfect cracks... And to onsight it. Some dreams came true yesterday, but the ultimate - the onsight is not fulfilled. And the nature of onsight is that it will never be fulfilled any more. It is only one try, lots of pressure in case of such a legendary route like Salathe in Yosemite on El Capitan.
Yesterday we started with amazing partner @nicofavresse at 00:01 AM, 7 AM we were up at the "Boulderproblem", 8:30 AM at the Block, still onsighting all. At 1:30 PM we continued through Enduro and the roof and I failed to onsight Headwall pitch 1 in the upper part, on my second go I fell right at the anchor. No more energy to give another try."
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Nov 16, 2018 - 11:26am PT
Ondra at Smith Rocks

https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/ondra-just-onsighted-just-do-it-5-14c-smith-rocks-or/
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2018 - 12:50pm PT
Chris Sharma is training (he never trained)... how far do you think he'll push the grades?

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