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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 15, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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I didn't realize he did the route first. I thought he attempted it on sight....
Still a ballsy effort.... it would have been very much different if he was trying it on sight.
-jb
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 15, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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Hi John,
Do you have any idea if any of his protection would have held a fall? Or, was he just 3rd classing?
I can see that point of an on-sight with placed gear and I can see the point of an unroped ascent, but it seems odd to climb in this style if you have already done the route.
Roger
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Jul 15, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
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Cool but not that ground breaking.
11c is not what it used to be. A lot of people in the world solo at this level, not just crack routes but dicey face climbs on chossy rock.
The impressive part was that he did not duct tape the sky hooks down.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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If the climber leaves the ground with gear - slings, carabiners, nuts, cams - then it's always possible to clip the bolts. They're always something of a possible safety net. The only way to get around that would be if someone else rappelled the route first, and temporarily removed the hangars. Maybe even taped over the studs, so it wasn't possible to sling them, or slip a wired nut over them.
All pretty hypothetical - still an amazing ascent.
"L'audace! Toujours l'audace!"
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 15, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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Thanks Scott. BY is really future history for me.
I do have some vivid memories of tying off knobs, blithely moving up into harder rock, and glancing back to see all my slings sitting in the belayers lap.
Not fond, just vivid.
Best, Roger
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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I believe he brought the gear because it was necessary to place it during his ascent. Slings around horns. Skyhooks. Tiny nuts and cams. Such as it was.
He was leading the route, using only such gear as could be placed naturally - he wasn't soloing it. No gear at all, e.g. no carabiners = solo. And having chosen to have some gear, that at least left open the possibility of clipping a bolt.
Good point about the presence of the photographer, though as with the nominal possibility of clipping an unplanned for bolt, not something that was a very sure bet.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Jul 15, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Yeah, Red Rocks is ripe for this sort of thing, lots of hook placements, slung spikes etc. Even did a couple of routes myself this spring, not clipping the bolts. Its amazing how much this can change the character of a route.
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Robowar
climber
Stockholm
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Feb 14, 2011 - 08:51am PT
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... The notorious mental testpiece route Bachar Yerian (BY) was really pushing the envelope at its time of birth. Doing a route of that difficulty, ground up, placing the bolts on lead by hanging on skyhooks and tied off knobs was way ahead and beyond the standard of early eighties...
... In an attempt to make the style of climbing the BY even a notch better british young gun George Ullrich tries a clean ascent, skipping the lonesome 9 bolts on the total of 150 meters of climbing and four pitches...
...But on second thought, is the attempt really as clean as it appears?...
**Read the whole reply to the "new wave" attempt here:
**
http://robowar.blogspot.com/2011/02/bachar-yerian-one-step-forward-and-two.html
Regs
Robo
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