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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 14, 2008 - 08:05am PT
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Many would agree that the Bachar- Yerian (5.11c R/X) on Medlicott Dome in California's Tuolumne Meadows is one of the finest routes in the world, on the most perfect sheet of golden granite, in one of the most beautiful alpine areas in the world.
The Bachar- Yerian takes a stunning and knee-trembling line up this vertical 500ft face, protected by 9 bolts (a #4 Friend and slings over knobs), all placed on the lead by John Bachar. The climbing is characterised by pulling on a sea of chicken-heads or knobs, often the size of peanuts, that stick out from the rock.
19 year old George Ullrich of Kendal attempted the route without clipping the bolts.
See the video and read the extended report at: http://new.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=07&year=2008#n45198
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Jul 14, 2008 - 08:11am PT
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Wow, knowing that those little knobs tend to break without warning... I can't help but shiver.
AF
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couchmaster
climber
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Jul 14, 2008 - 08:28am PT
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Holy crap, now I feel real old. That's some good sh#t right there Mick, thanks for putting it up. After they come with with the movie, have them do a dvd version after it's shown around eh?
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Jul 14, 2008 - 09:24am PT
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where the threshold of gravity meets the threshold of friction,
stout men and women thrive.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Jul 14, 2008 - 09:26am PT
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Wow! Very impressive, using hooks on the knobs for pro & working modern gear in those barely there seams is way beyond bold. The climbing is pretty tough even clipping the few bolts that are there, but to do the route like George did is a few steps beyond anything I've ever seen.
Good job lad!
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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Did he really SEND the B.Y. like that? In the segment they keep referring to his "attempt".
Still though, even thinking about considering doing something like that takes a lot of balls.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:35am PT
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There is no "last great project"...
Only the Next Great Project: potentiated by imaginative vision and executed with skillful boldness.
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BenL
climber
18+hours to ElCap,13 to Tre Cime
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:45am PT
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"George got through the first two pitches all fine. Last main pitch, he was about 6ft from the belay and had to clip a bolt. He was belayed and followed by Mason Earl. Mason was clipped into belay bolts. They lowered off after pitch three. The main pitches are the first three."
says Dave Gill.
So no clean ascent, but still PROUD!!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Good effort....damn!
I take it he linked the second and third pitches together? I can see belaying on natural gear on the first belay and climbing the second and third as one pitch but doing that last move on the third would be extremely committing....yikes.
Again, amazing effort.
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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Hi Mick Ryan,
bachar,
If you would email the video I would be very appreciative.
There is currently a known fbi server associated to the
download?
BES
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:38pm PT
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Oh my God...
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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I'm on a government system. Apparently the fbi is in
support of the videos however I have not checked with
the admin on the state system regards the video download
to the state system.
BES
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:01pm PT
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Video is HUGE. No way it's mailing anywhere.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:13pm PT
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The video is 75Mb. I haven't seen a mailbox that can handle that, but I guess it's possible.
Best bet is probably this...
Go to the page, right-click on the link to the movie and select "Save Target As..." and save it to your machine.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:14pm PT
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Headpoint of a long V3? Where is Jingy when you need him......
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Bacher's onsight remains in a class by itself; however, the guy didn't really "rehearse" or "headpoint" it. He did it once with no falls (i.e., onsight) and then decided to go for it without the bolts.
It's not onsight (the second time he went up).
It's not what us Americans call trad (i.e., ground up onsight).
It's not the FA.
But don't pretend it isn't a fvcking proud effort!
Brian
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Impaler
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jul 14, 2008 - 01:53pm PT
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This guy is an amazing climber. I met him at the needles a week ago and saw him run up Atlantis (11c) barely placing any gear. Earlier that day he took an 80-footer from either Pegleg or Ankles Away (12b or 11+) that looked way scary! Both routes have junk gear and hard and sustained climbing. Awesome job on BY!!!
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Jul 14, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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Coz, you also seemed to implying that he had headpointed his ascent. He didn't, he did it onsight. He only came back and rehearsed for the no-bolts attempt.
Sure it would have been more impressive if he had done it no-bolts onsight, or as an onsight free solo, but I don't think you should be criticizing for headpointing. He sent it in as good of style as you did. He then came back and tried to do better.
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Hawkeye
climber
State of Mine
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Jul 14, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
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coz said, "I did the 5th ascent of the B/Y in 84, at the age of 19, I had no problem with it and perhaps if I tried to do it without bolts, I could have."
yeah, too bad you missed your chance too. now all you can to is spray about how you coulda woulda on the intardnet...
proud for the new guys
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seamus mcshane
climber
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Jul 14, 2008 - 03:00pm PT
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I always resort back to the question:
Would this dude have done it if there was no camera present?
Impressive, none the less.
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2008 - 03:11pm PT
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Surely this ascent is ground up and conforms to your charter.
It wasn't done top down with top rope practice.
He led the climb from the ground up, clipping the bolts and managed an onsight.
Then led it again clipping bolts, to check out potential natural gear.
Then attempted to lead it without the bolts.
But failed near the top and clipped a bolt.
It is what is it, a fine effort.
The challenge still remains however.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Jul 14, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
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Fricken INTENSE!!!!
Bravo!!!
He's a BAD ASH!
Walling Edit: V3... no prob! Runout? I need to use the restroom.. you know.. for some rest!
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 03:43pm PT
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coz,
Sorry amigo. I didn't mean to come off too strong (that's one of the things about email, etc.--hard to convey feeling, sarcasm, irony, etc.). I just wanted to reiterate that I thought the effort was proud, even with prior knowledge of the route.
Brian
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Mick Ryan
Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
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In reply to coz
> He did not do an on-sight, without bolts.
No one is saying he did.
> He rehearsed it, it's a head point, sorry.
Headpoints are where a boltless route is rehearsed on a top rope then led. Specifically a style to avoid placing bolts on areas where here is a no bolt ethic, e.g., gritsone and UK mountain rock. This is different, think up a new term (please don't actually) - most certainly it is a ground - up ascent.
> Why not say, pasty brit climbs B/Y after rehearsal, only clips one bolt on third pitch. Is that too honest?
That's exactly it. Except George has probably got a Californian tan by now.
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sawin
climber
So., CA.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:21pm PT
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steelmnkey,
I'm saving the movie now. He has never had a problem
with others in the past.
Mick_Ryan and bachar
I think they could also read environment variables via
a browser script or cgi, then check the variable, and
then activate the operating system specific player if
the other is not quite what you or they are looking
for.
BES
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:27pm PT
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Darn!
When I tried watching the video, it's no longer available!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:29pm PT
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An amazing climb! Sounds like this fellow might have fun on Growing Up.
It's somewhat arbitrary, but even if some or all of the bolts aren't clipped, they're always something of a 'safety net'. If you get really strung out, you may be able to clip one. Not likely, given sparseness, but just possible. And not that anyone expects the climber to arrange for someone else to render all the bolts temporarily unuseable, before the ascent.
It goes back to first ascent ethos - it's difficult if not impossible for any subsequent climbers to have the same experience. They know someone else has climbed it, and have the advantage of any gear that is in place, or other environmental alterations, e.g. removed knobs.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jul 14, 2008 - 05:37pm PT
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I'm impressed by anyone that walks up to the base of the BY and cranks it off. If that person then comes back and does a second ascent, and instead of clipping the few bolts on the route elects to sling heads, that too is impressive.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Jul 14, 2008 - 06:30pm PT
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There are many different ways for climbers with motivation and imagination to challenge themselves. Why limit yourself to one particular style, and claim that that one style is the only true way.
The article is pretty straightforward in saying how he did the route, so its pretty hard to find fault there. No doubt a ground up onsight boltless lead ups the ante even more, I'll be the first to applaud.
I think its a little lame to say that so-and so could have done that.....they didn't.
I think that kid showed a tremendous amount of imagination to see that possibility and then follow through.
A point worth mentioning is that Tuolumne knob climbing is a specialized...very specialized...style of climbing. Certainly nothing like it in the UK.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Jul 14, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
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Mick,
I couldn't tell from the video. Did he use putty or tape to "secure" the hooks (as if that's secure!), or are those suckers just hanging there (can't be, can it)?
I'm just curious, not trying to start a debate about the ethics of putty...
Brian
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
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very nice video.. very nice send..
but..
i second Coz... not earth shattering when the current top end grade is 5.15..
does this mean we have to chop the bolts now? or do we wait for the on-sight solo, naked with no chalk and no parachute..
too bad Dean's already climbed it of he could claim it..
ks
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rick d
climber
tucson, az
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:38pm PT
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I've got to agree with coz, he was head-pointing the route.
I was amazed by the guy who wandered up the Redhead route at cloggy with little idea other than the route had been done. The repeat of b-y is just typical of most climbers today.
Here is an ideal, all those fast aid climbers and 'extreme' free climbers go out and establish YOUR OWN TEST PIECES- harder than anything done today. Hone your skills doing 2nd or 3rd ascents (or for aid clean ascents) but bust your balls on a new line.
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rectorsquid
climber
Lake Tahoe
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Jul 14, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
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Bummer that the photog tilted the camera to make it look steeper. Wither that or someting hit hard nearby making all the trees lean over.
Sill, it's an amazing and impressive climb and the style of not using bolts is to be commended in this era of placing bolts to make climbs "safer".
Dave
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 14, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
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regardless of where you put what he did in the great cosmic order of bitchin' manliness, what strikes me most about this kid is his unassuming nature and no-attitude good cheer. i bouldered with him one afternoon last spring here in flagstaff and he is the nicest guy you could ever want to meet. i'm not sure you could have said that about a lot of us, back in the day.
same dude, innit? he was psyched on gogarth and cornwall.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Jul 15, 2008 - 12:34am PT
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Who knew the Brits would be closet Ken Nichols hooking fans - the last time I watched someone doing that it was Ken back in the mid-80's...
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Kevin Daniels
climber
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Jul 15, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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i spent a few days climbing with him at the buttermilks about 2 weeks ago.
i was interested in footprints and had rapped down it to have a look at the 50-60 foot slab at the top. george watched me from a distance.
the following day i went back to try the V9 dyno to get onto the slab and george turned up. he asked me about the slab crux at about 50 feet. i told him it was 5.10b and you could downclimb if nescessary. i told him to GO FOR IT, it was not bad and i had sold myself short on the onsight. lack of confidence DARN !!
he let me try the opening moves a few times offering support. i failed to make the long throw.
it took him a few tries but quite quickly he was on the slab and climbed with total commitment and confidence. it was a pleasure to watch him. he was fun to climb with and honestly one of the most positive and talented climbers i have seen in years.
he did the second ascent of the problem and i was happy to have supported him.
george left for the needles the next day and mentioned his intension of the B/Y boltless. honestly i am suprised he clipped any bolts at all. he is way skilled.
george is the real deal.
george give me a ring when you return
kevin daniels
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rjtrials
Sport climber
ChattaVegas
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Jul 15, 2008 - 01:51am PT
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Someone mentioned that Bachar onsighted the B-Y. And another that the bolts were drilled from skyhooks. Which is it?
Not trying to take away from the FA at all, just trying to understand a little bit of history and ethics...
RJ
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Scary Larry
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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Jul 15, 2008 - 09:25am PT
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Contrary to jghedge's opinion, the mere presence of the bolts provides a potential "escape hatch" that reduces the climber's commitment, so retro-bolting retains its negative aspect. This is not a reflection on the tremendous boldness of his approach to an already bold climb. But the experience (and possibly the outcome) would surely have been different had the exercise started by chopping the existing bolts.
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BenL
climber
18+hours to ElCap,13 to Tre Cime
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Jul 15, 2008 - 09:56am PT
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I'm with scary lary.
Retrobolters that make 'plaisir' climbs out of serious old routes, always argue that you could ignore the bolts. That's nonsense.
You are not going to visit an 'all you can eat' restaurant if you plan to diet...
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Jul 15, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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I didn't realize he did the route first. I thought he attempted it on sight....
Still a ballsy effort.... it would have been very much different if he was trying it on sight.
-jb
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 15, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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Hi John,
Do you have any idea if any of his protection would have held a fall? Or, was he just 3rd classing?
I can see that point of an on-sight with placed gear and I can see the point of an unroped ascent, but it seems odd to climb in this style if you have already done the route.
Roger
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James
climber
Leavenworthless
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Jul 15, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
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Cool but not that ground breaking.
11c is not what it used to be. A lot of people in the world solo at this level, not just crack routes but dicey face climbs on chossy rock.
The impressive part was that he did not duct tape the sky hooks down.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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If the climber leaves the ground with gear - slings, carabiners, nuts, cams - then it's always possible to clip the bolts. They're always something of a possible safety net. The only way to get around that would be if someone else rappelled the route first, and temporarily removed the hangars. Maybe even taped over the studs, so it wasn't possible to sling them, or slip a wired nut over them.
All pretty hypothetical - still an amazing ascent.
"L'audace! Toujours l'audace!"
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Jul 15, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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Thanks Scott. BY is really future history for me.
I do have some vivid memories of tying off knobs, blithely moving up into harder rock, and glancing back to see all my slings sitting in the belayers lap.
Not fond, just vivid.
Best, Roger
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 15, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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I believe he brought the gear because it was necessary to place it during his ascent. Slings around horns. Skyhooks. Tiny nuts and cams. Such as it was.
He was leading the route, using only such gear as could be placed naturally - he wasn't soloing it. No gear at all, e.g. no carabiners = solo. And having chosen to have some gear, that at least left open the possibility of clipping a bolt.
Good point about the presence of the photographer, though as with the nominal possibility of clipping an unplanned for bolt, not something that was a very sure bet.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Jul 15, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Yeah, Red Rocks is ripe for this sort of thing, lots of hook placements, slung spikes etc. Even did a couple of routes myself this spring, not clipping the bolts. Its amazing how much this can change the character of a route.
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Robowar
climber
Stockholm
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Feb 14, 2011 - 08:51am PT
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... The notorious mental testpiece route Bachar Yerian (BY) was really pushing the envelope at its time of birth. Doing a route of that difficulty, ground up, placing the bolts on lead by hanging on skyhooks and tied off knobs was way ahead and beyond the standard of early eighties...
... In an attempt to make the style of climbing the BY even a notch better british young gun George Ullrich tries a clean ascent, skipping the lonesome 9 bolts on the total of 150 meters of climbing and four pitches...
...But on second thought, is the attempt really as clean as it appears?...
**Read the whole reply to the "new wave" attempt here:
**
http://robowar.blogspot.com/2011/02/bachar-yerian-one-step-forward-and-two.html
Regs
Robo
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