Lesser Known list of classics in Yosemite

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 132 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 2, 2005 - 03:20pm PT
"Would be nice to check out the bit to Perhaps as well..."

That's the whole point of it. But I suspect the bolt on the first hard slab pitch (getting to Perhaps), which protects a 30 5.11a run out, is a coffin nail by now, so bring a bolt kit or get ready to crap your knickers.

JL
Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Mar 2, 2005 - 03:23pm PT
Or both?
WBraun

climber
Mar 2, 2005 - 05:52pm PT
Junior,

Yes, Freestone is an all time bad-ass classic.
I’m not going to list any climbs because there are so many that it will fill up the whole thread.
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Mar 2, 2005 - 10:10pm PT
Bad Ass Baby is a really cool "boulder problem" out in the far awahnee circuit
Twist of Fate Looks rad-though the mantle seems more committing than I was willing to partake in
Also Space Invaders is one of the most splitter cracks in Yosemite though getting off the ground is hard
Leroy

climber
May 19, 2005 - 06:05am PT
What Space Invaders is thaat?The Space Invaders I know,is a wide crack.Also a super classic.The Gauntlet and the Blade.
climberweenie

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 19, 2005 - 07:11pm PT
Here's my vote (Via Aqua) from a very small sample size:

But the one bolt on the route could use replacement:
Claude

climber
where I'll end up
May 19, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
Quicksilver
Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Bring it.
Weenis

Trad climber
Shastafaria
May 20, 2005 - 11:33am PT
I don't know if you would call it classic but it's cool;
Selaginella Wall. Do one of the filthy open books and finish on this stiff 4 pitch deal. Rated 5.7 or 5.8. Finishes at the Fall's trail.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 20, 2005 - 11:50am PT
Selaginella wins for the obscurity with the longest line! ;-)
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
May 20, 2005 - 09:57pm PT
The Flakes, MCR
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
May 23, 2005 - 12:40pm PT
That chickenhead-covered erratic on top of the Quarter Dome.
Peter Puget

Trad climber
Washington
May 23, 2005 - 01:00pm PT
I'll second Texas Chainsaw Massacre. I remember it being a bit stiff for .11a too.
Old&InTheWay

Trad climber
May 23, 2005 - 10:46pm PT
Beggar's Buttress offers shade, a short approach, five outstanding 5.11 pitches, and lots of adventure to boot.
Old&InTheWay

Trad climber
May 23, 2005 - 10:51pm PT
Shadow of Doubt on HammerDome is an amazing steep knob and edge climb. Due to the bad weather last September, we were forced to crag. We stumbled across this route and were not disappointed.
WBraun

climber
May 23, 2005 - 10:55pm PT
Probably nobody knows of this climb in Yosemite, Atomic Finger Crack.

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
May 23, 2005 - 11:08pm PT
Cramming for a nice bit of inch and a quarter hands.

Little Wing

Knucklebuster...even better if you get to stand under Indian Canyon Falls.

Alan Doak

climber
boulder, co
May 24, 2005 - 07:15pm PT
I'm a big fan of The Rambler in the Royal Arches area. Wear jeans and a helmet though, since it's runout 5.10 slab.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 25, 2005 - 08:34pm PT
Long ago in a galaxy far, far away...

I was happy to see that first bolt on Werner's. I don't
remember it being next to a crack.....Killer approach to
Surprise, as Greg once told me.

...

As for obscure, there is Obscure because of the approach. These
are easy to think of. Then there's obscure because nobody seems
to do the route.


Stay Free is on my list of Obscure Routes To Do, but I'm
waiting for my rocket pack to arrive. Is it any good?

I went to do Essence, but I got half way there and said
FugIt.

How about Back to the Slammer? First a hike, then a climb,
then a rap.

High Pressure seemed obscure without the long approach
(don't try it this weekend). Belay on the pedistal at the
end of the roof for an entertaining view of your 2nd.
:- k
Ken Zemach

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
May 21, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
I loved Inverted Staircase (Fairview). If someone ever gardens out the lower cracks, it'll be awesome, and a nice "addition" in between the difficulty level of the ever populoar Regular Route and Lucky Streaks; there's certainly never a line on it. Just remember that it's wet early season AND there's a nest up there, so it's a late summer/early fall route. Also, I want to thank whoever replaced the bolts on that. Would have been way sketch if they were old.

Since we're on the topic of replacing bolts... didn't the two now-hangerless bolts on Steck-Salathe orginally have hangars? When I went up there, the lower one was badly bent downwards (from a fall I'm assuming), and looked unlikely to hold me if I fell on it. That, and missing the next one, made for a pretty terrifying lead. Am sure replacing those would be controversial, but I'm throwing it out there for discussion... Could we at least think about replacing them with new 1/2" hangerless bolts?
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
May 21, 2007 - 05:22pm PT
A) Windfall- 5.11, on the Tower of the Cosmic Gods. Four pitches, cool location, beater hike.
B) Digital Delight- 5.12a 45' long. Elephants boneyard left of Elephant Rock. Off Fingers flush crack through gray rock. Dimitri Barton first lead this gem in '87, it has probably still seen less than ten ascents.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 132 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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