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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:03am PT
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Hey Werner, I did the replacement on Werner's Ant Trees in May 2001 (not with Jack), one pro bolt and 1 bolt/1 pin anchor, one bolt near top of Surprise. From the deck you go about 40' up the corner, switch left to second corner, about 20' up that one then out left on face with a bolt near a crystal knob, then return right to the easy low-angle corner. About 15' up that corner is a piton and bolt anchor (under a little roof). Then about 200' above that on the Surprise (Ant Trees goes right) is another 1-bolt 1-pin anchor (pulled the pin). I wanted to pull that one on the Surprise for sure, but everyone I asked accused me of wanting to make it too dangerous since a lot of people would run out of the right size pro by the time they got to it.
Pro bolt on pitch 1 was 1/4" with old rusty SMC hanger. Top of pitch 1 was a 1/4" with Leeper. The one way up on Surprise was a 1/4" with Longware hanger I think (not sure).
If the two on Werner's weren't original I'll go pull them (Surprise was Peter Spoecker/Steve Herrero 1965?). Did you continue up the corner on pitch 1 and someone else do a face variation, or did you go out left past the knob?
Sorry I didn't ask you about it ahead of time on the 2 bolts on your route, I blew it. Didn't even occur to me that they might be added. I'll pull and patch them if they were not yours. Greg
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:08am PT
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Anyone got a topo for clouds rest.
Mr. Barnes I like the way you are honest, and take responsiblity for you actions....nice one.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:09am PT
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Gee Greg, you know me well enough to know I trust you with whatever you decide. Its not my world and I believe in you. I’m not the guy who’s worried about the future.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:16am PT
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What about the route Peter Pan????
Classic or Not???
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:18am PT
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Yep, all time classic, especially the right side.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:22am PT
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Cool Werner, I'll pull them. Unless people think that the pro bolt is a "valid" variation (yeah what defines 'valid'...)? You definitely climb in a different spot - out left on face to that little flake then back right, as opposed to up and right on the corner/arch, then roof moves and back left.
Thanks warpath, I've made mistakes, trying to avoid future ones.
And if anyone wants to hack on me, go ahead. But for the aggro ones, instead of too much spewing (yeah it's winter nothing else to do), go chop the 3 added bolts on Braille Book - Bridwell (and Roper as well) confirmed that they were added at least 6 years after the FA (old very rusty 1/4" & Leepers around pitch 2 or so).
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:38am PT
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Hey Greg I find no fault in what your doing whatsoever. You guys really do the hard dirty work of fixing all that mank. My hats off to you guys. I watched you that time we were on the nose and I was impressed, it’s hard work fixing all that crap that’s everywhere.
I’d never go hack on man.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:42am PT
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Greg
I din't think I was hacking on you, if I was I am sorry. I just knew the route had ASCA bolts on it?
What about the classic Commissioner Buttress?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 26, 2005 - 12:57am PT
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There are a couple of old routes on Clouds Rest, plus a partly new one with a topo:
http://www.mindspring.com/~thharper/FTTop.html
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:18am PT
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A lesser know route?
Leaning Tower Traverse Grade II 5.5
Fa sept 57
chuck wilts, ellen wilts, and G.B. Harr
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:19am PT
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Hey warpath, no worries, you weren't hacking on me, I was just trying to keep others from going too far off the deep end. Also the bolt-next-to-crack thing really gets old at belays that used to be a pin (or two pins) and 1-bolt and are now single bolt (or no bolts at all) - no one cares if there are 1/4" bolts, no one notices if you remove old pins and old bolts instead of replacing them, but as soon as one bolt gets replaced next to a crack, look out!
Everything is a balancing act, we try to do the best thing. And in 2001 I should have gone and found Werner before replacing those bolts - my bad.
Thanks Werner, see you in the Valley sometime (have plane tickets to Switzerland for April so won't be til May). Hope this isn't too wet of a spring in the Valley and that you get some good weather!
And for lesser-known classics, here's an idea - even if you hate offwidth, try the first 2 pitches of Mental Block (pro to 2" for first 2). First is total junk, but the second is a classic.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 26, 2005 - 01:35am PT
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I think thaaaaat anyone that’s ever stepped into the room of the Valley knows they’ve stumbled onto a classic whether greater or lesser. There’s many lines that just reach out and grab you by the collar and say do me.
Help yourselves, the menu is rather large. What will you have tomorrow?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 26, 2005 - 04:59pm PT
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Black Rose, Middle C. Almost never done. Exciting, pretty hard and perfect black granite. Five pitches, I think.
Final Exam first pitch. Long hike. Killer crack.
Short Cake. Weird.
Abstract Corner. Maybe 5.12, done right around 1969 or 70 by Bridwell.
JL
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Feb 26, 2005 - 09:55pm PT
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Black Rose! I remember the legendary Matt Cox describing one of the more challenging pitches as "glass".
Anybody know where Matt is these days? My partner brought Matt with us for a very early repeat of Higgin's Fairest of All in Tuolomne as our ace in the hole but, Matt never led a single pitch! Now that there are topos (well, good topos!) the route doesn't seem that bad but, back in the day, trying to figure out how to do the third pitch on sight(go down and left arond the corner) was interesting.
Bruce
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Rhodo-Router
Trad climber
Otto, NC
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Feb 27, 2005 - 03:23pm PT
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Arches Terrace Direct. Clean, elegant, and classic. Eventually there's a 200' 5.8 hand crack.
I like the Split Pinnacle too. The lack of exposure never bothered me any. Rather the opposite up by that .10c layback up top-- we did the pin ladder instead.
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warpath
Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
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Feb 28, 2005 - 02:08pm PT
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How about Yosemite Point Buttress, an old school clasic
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junior
Trad climber
Modesto. CA
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Feb 28, 2005 - 03:45pm PT
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The Freestone by lost arrow
Do you Agree Warner?
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J-Dub
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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A classic I never hear about from anyone else - Texas Chainsaw Massacre on the Arches wall. First pitch much better pro'd than its reputation, and the second is a killer 5.11a finger crack.
J-Dub
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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I forgot this one. Mouth to Perhaps, on the Apron. Steeper than usual and exciting run outs in a few places. 5.11 as I remember, but sticky rubber might have made this a little easier.
JL
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Just an FYI in case someone else goes up to repeat this excellent climb....The Mouth has a lot of falling-would-be-bad anchors and is on the top of our public service list for the spring. For the last pitch, we skipped the original anchor because it was so bad and belayed hanging out of the crack about. For the last slab pitch, the only existing pro bolt is one of the worst I've seen, the other pro bolt is no longer there, and we had to leave gear to back up the top anchor. A pin anchor down low had totally fallen out. That anchor was naturally protectable, so this was only an issue for rappelling. We had to rap another route, which isn't a big deal on the GPA. Would be nice to check out the bit to Perhaps as well...
My awesome obscurity entry is the Penny-Nickel Arrete. The exposure compensates for the crumbly rock on top. I thnk that's as scared as I've been on a climb in a long time...and I was following.
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