Lesser Known list of classics in Yosemite

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clustiere

Gym climber
running springs, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 25, 2005 - 03:35am PT
I wish I had climbed here enough to know
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 25, 2005 - 01:39pm PT
How about
Phantom pinnacle??
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Feb 25, 2005 - 01:43pm PT
I highly recommend Split Pinnacle and Absolutely Free to Hawkman's Escape.

DMT
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 25, 2005 - 01:46pm PT
I would agree with Dingus

Another classics is left side of slab happy pinnical. Not to many people make the hike, but it is worth it.
WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2005 - 01:47pm PT
Ok ok I give you one you will never go to .....

Catch-U, this Steve Wunch classic will quiet the most prolific sprayer at all times
Dirk

climber
Feb 25, 2005 - 02:10pm PT
Pulput Rock, The Sermon. It's a mini NE buttress of Higher.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
Feb 25, 2005 - 04:05pm PT
Fallout above Camp 4

Desperate Kneed at Parkline Slab???

A Dogs Roof, tunnel

Ala Moana, above Reeds?? below Reeds???

Werner???
Matt

Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
Feb 25, 2005 - 06:12pm PT
North Buttress of MCR (not the DNB, but it's neighbor, not hard and nice and long, cool way to suss out the kat walk. I have lots left to do near there, but that whole are is uncrowded and full of history- bring your helmet!)

East Butt of LCR (kinda unusual and less traffic than other routes- the top is chossy but you can rap after 5 pitches w/ 2 ropes- bring a #4)

Everything at Arch Rock is cool

Serenity Crack (oh wait, there might be another party or 2 on that one...)
Blinny

Trad climber
Eureka, Montana
Feb 25, 2005 - 06:33pm PT
Arrowhead Arete. 5.8

I really enjoyed this route
Steep cracks and a cool summit.

Mark
WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2005 - 06:42pm PT
Ala Moana, is to the right of cat pinnacle Russ. That’s that stormscrew me and yabo did.
Matt

Trad climber
moving to the RIGHT
Feb 25, 2005 - 07:21pm PT
"stormscrew"?

i'm almost afraid to ask what that is...
=)
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Feb 25, 2005 - 07:59pm PT
I would disagree with both Split Pinnacle and Ab Free
Center.

The biggest problem with Split Pinnacle is that you do
five pitches of climbing but the ground seems to come
along with you. There is no exposure. It seems like
after all that climbing you have never really gotten
off the ground. I think that severely hurts its classic
status.

I have previously stated why I don't think Ab Free is
such a good route. Gritty rock, lots of vegetation,
grody off-widths and a whole bunch of ants for about
15 feet of 1-1/2" crack. Go do Cookie Center instead.

Nobody got this the last time. There actually was a
Yosemite climber with the nickname Hawkman. Name him.

Bruce
Larry

Trad climber
Reno NV
Feb 25, 2005 - 08:12pm PT
Phil something. Famous for facing the wrong way on 10.96. (An unknown classic, itself.)
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 25, 2005 - 08:27pm PT
How about Werner's Ant Trees???
I thought it was clasic.
I wonder how many of those bolts were placed by Werner? My guess is probally none seeing the bolts are next to a crack?
What about the Lost Brother?
alik

Big Wall climber
edmonton
Feb 25, 2005 - 08:59pm PT
While some people might dissagree with me on this one, I gotta say Salami Ledge. Although its a little dirty in places and not very sustained I really liked it. The crack on the fourth pitch and the upper dihedral are both really good, plus the el cap chimney is one coolest approaches I've done in the valley. Good luck finding the start though. he he
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 25, 2005 - 09:29pm PT
hey what about the regular route on Washingtons Column?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 25, 2005 - 11:01pm PT

Damn I can't seem to find the citation about who Hawkman was... and my mind just didn't retain the info....

Hawkman's Escape 5.9 Three Brothers Lower Brother Michael's Ledge, FA 1972 John Dill, Phil Gleason, Peter Haan, Ed Drummond
WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2005 - 11:18pm PT
Werner's Ant Trees???

There's bolts there now? We never placed no bolts there.

ED it's Phil Gleason, his sons are both climbers too.
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 25, 2005 - 11:33pm PT
Ya Werner there is at least three brand new ASCA bolts on that route, and all but one are right next to a killer crack placement.
Hawkman's escape is a route. good or bad you should decide.
WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2005 - 11:36pm PT
Well warpath, they musta paved the road.

Hawkman's escape has a ramblin rose variation I did. I thought that made it nice.
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 25, 2005 - 11:43pm PT
Werner,
the pave road lets gumbys like my self climb routes like that, I bet it was spicy in the day, no bolts, way above a pin.

I liked hawkmans escape. lots of wide stuff.

Anyone done the regular route up clouds rest?????
Now that looks like a clasic.
Sewellymon

Social climber
.....in a single wide......
Feb 25, 2005 - 11:53pm PT
i been talking recently with libido roy. he did clouds rest with tom carter perhaps last summer? some kinda wandering 5.7ish on the most amazingly clean white granite in such a cool place. u picked a good obscurity, that one
WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2005 - 11:58pm PT
Yep, Dean Potter told me that Clouds Rest route is a classic.
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:03am PT
Hey Werner, I did the replacement on Werner's Ant Trees in May 2001 (not with Jack), one pro bolt and 1 bolt/1 pin anchor, one bolt near top of Surprise. From the deck you go about 40' up the corner, switch left to second corner, about 20' up that one then out left on face with a bolt near a crystal knob, then return right to the easy low-angle corner. About 15' up that corner is a piton and bolt anchor (under a little roof). Then about 200' above that on the Surprise (Ant Trees goes right) is another 1-bolt 1-pin anchor (pulled the pin). I wanted to pull that one on the Surprise for sure, but everyone I asked accused me of wanting to make it too dangerous since a lot of people would run out of the right size pro by the time they got to it.

Pro bolt on pitch 1 was 1/4" with old rusty SMC hanger. Top of pitch 1 was a 1/4" with Leeper. The one way up on Surprise was a 1/4" with Longware hanger I think (not sure).

If the two on Werner's weren't original I'll go pull them (Surprise was Peter Spoecker/Steve Herrero 1965?). Did you continue up the corner on pitch 1 and someone else do a face variation, or did you go out left past the knob?

Sorry I didn't ask you about it ahead of time on the 2 bolts on your route, I blew it. Didn't even occur to me that they might be added. I'll pull and patch them if they were not yours. Greg
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:08am PT
Anyone got a topo for clouds rest.

Mr. Barnes I like the way you are honest, and take responsiblity for you actions....nice one.

WBraun

climber
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:09am PT
Gee Greg, you know me well enough to know I trust you with whatever you decide. Its not my world and I believe in you. I’m not the guy who’s worried about the future.
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:16am PT
What about the route Peter Pan????
Classic or Not???
WBraun

climber
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:18am PT
Yep, all time classic, especially the right side.
Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:22am PT
Cool Werner, I'll pull them. Unless people think that the pro bolt is a "valid" variation (yeah what defines 'valid'...)? You definitely climb in a different spot - out left on face to that little flake then back right, as opposed to up and right on the corner/arch, then roof moves and back left.

Thanks warpath, I've made mistakes, trying to avoid future ones.

And if anyone wants to hack on me, go ahead. But for the aggro ones, instead of too much spewing (yeah it's winter nothing else to do), go chop the 3 added bolts on Braille Book - Bridwell (and Roper as well) confirmed that they were added at least 6 years after the FA (old very rusty 1/4" & Leepers around pitch 2 or so).
WBraun

climber
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:38am PT
Hey Greg I find no fault in what your doing whatsoever. You guys really do the hard dirty work of fixing all that mank. My hats off to you guys. I watched you that time we were on the nose and I was impressed, it’s hard work fixing all that crap that’s everywhere.

I’d never go hack on man.
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:42am PT
Greg
I din't think I was hacking on you, if I was I am sorry. I just knew the route had ASCA bolts on it?



What about the classic Commissioner Buttress?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 26, 2005 - 12:57am PT
There are a couple of old routes on Clouds Rest, plus a partly new one with a topo:

http://www.mindspring.com/~thharper/FTTop.html
warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 26, 2005 - 01:18am PT
A lesser know route?

Leaning Tower Traverse Grade II 5.5
Fa sept 57
chuck wilts, ellen wilts, and G.B. Harr

Greg Barnes

climber
Feb 26, 2005 - 01:19am PT
Hey warpath, no worries, you weren't hacking on me, I was just trying to keep others from going too far off the deep end. Also the bolt-next-to-crack thing really gets old at belays that used to be a pin (or two pins) and 1-bolt and are now single bolt (or no bolts at all) - no one cares if there are 1/4" bolts, no one notices if you remove old pins and old bolts instead of replacing them, but as soon as one bolt gets replaced next to a crack, look out!

Everything is a balancing act, we try to do the best thing. And in 2001 I should have gone and found Werner before replacing those bolts - my bad.

Thanks Werner, see you in the Valley sometime (have plane tickets to Switzerland for April so won't be til May). Hope this isn't too wet of a spring in the Valley and that you get some good weather!

And for lesser-known classics, here's an idea - even if you hate offwidth, try the first 2 pitches of Mental Block (pro to 2" for first 2). First is total junk, but the second is a classic.
WBraun

climber
Feb 26, 2005 - 01:35am PT
I think thaaaaat anyone that’s ever stepped into the room of the Valley knows they’ve stumbled onto a classic whether greater or lesser. There’s many lines that just reach out and grab you by the collar and say do me.

Help yourselves, the menu is rather large. What will you have tomorrow?
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Feb 26, 2005 - 10:03am PT
Every one whines about the 'terrible' OW on Absolutely Free and it is absolutely unnecessary to climb it, lol. You only need to take the left variation up the slab on the 3rd pitch. It reconnects to the center line above the worst of the ow.

It's good climbing despite the less than ringing endorsements. But the approach and 'decent' off the top will put some people off (stiff 4th and 4th class respectively).

If a bit of gritty rock puts your diapers in a dump, stay off Hawkman's too. You'll hate it.

Hawkman's has one of the weirdest chimneys anywere, bottom-less and topless, 165' of chimneying behind a gigantic flake pasted to the wall.

Later
DMT
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 26, 2005 - 04:59pm PT
Black Rose, Middle C. Almost never done. Exciting, pretty hard and perfect black granite. Five pitches, I think.

Final Exam first pitch. Long hike. Killer crack.

Short Cake. Weird.

Abstract Corner. Maybe 5.12, done right around 1969 or 70 by Bridwell.

JL
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Feb 26, 2005 - 09:55pm PT
Black Rose! I remember the legendary Matt Cox describing one of the more challenging pitches as "glass".

Anybody know where Matt is these days? My partner brought Matt with us for a very early repeat of Higgin's Fairest of All in Tuolomne as our ace in the hole but, Matt never led a single pitch! Now that there are topos (well, good topos!) the route doesn't seem that bad but, back in the day, trying to figure out how to do the third pitch on sight(go down and left arond the corner) was interesting.

Bruce
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Feb 27, 2005 - 03:23pm PT
Arches Terrace Direct. Clean, elegant, and classic. Eventually there's a 200' 5.8 hand crack.

I like the Split Pinnacle too. The lack of exposure never bothered me any. Rather the opposite up by that .10c layback up top-- we did the pin ladder instead.

warpath

Gym climber
Sedona, AZ
Feb 28, 2005 - 02:08pm PT
How about Yosemite Point Buttress, an old school clasic
junior

Trad climber
Modesto. CA
Feb 28, 2005 - 03:45pm PT
The Freestone by lost arrow

Do you Agree Warner?
J-Dub

Trad climber
Durango, CO
Mar 2, 2005 - 11:26am PT
A classic I never hear about from anyone else - Texas Chainsaw Massacre on the Arches wall. First pitch much better pro'd than its reputation, and the second is a killer 5.11a finger crack.

J-Dub
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 2, 2005 - 12:23pm PT
I forgot this one. Mouth to Perhaps, on the Apron. Steeper than usual and exciting run outs in a few places. 5.11 as I remember, but sticky rubber might have made this a little easier.

JL
Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Mar 2, 2005 - 01:49pm PT
Just an FYI in case someone else goes up to repeat this excellent climb....The Mouth has a lot of falling-would-be-bad anchors and is on the top of our public service list for the spring. For the last pitch, we skipped the original anchor because it was so bad and belayed hanging out of the crack about. For the last slab pitch, the only existing pro bolt is one of the worst I've seen, the other pro bolt is no longer there, and we had to leave gear to back up the top anchor. A pin anchor down low had totally fallen out. That anchor was naturally protectable, so this was only an issue for rappelling. We had to rap another route, which isn't a big deal on the GPA. Would be nice to check out the bit to Perhaps as well...

My awesome obscurity entry is the Penny-Nickel Arrete. The exposure compensates for the crumbly rock on top. I thnk that's as scared as I've been on a climb in a long time...and I was following.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 2, 2005 - 03:20pm PT
"Would be nice to check out the bit to Perhaps as well..."

That's the whole point of it. But I suspect the bolt on the first hard slab pitch (getting to Perhaps), which protects a 30 5.11a run out, is a coffin nail by now, so bring a bolt kit or get ready to crap your knickers.

JL
Melissa

Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
Mar 2, 2005 - 03:23pm PT
Or both?
WBraun

climber
Mar 2, 2005 - 05:52pm PT
Junior,

Yes, Freestone is an all time bad-ass classic.
I’m not going to list any climbs because there are so many that it will fill up the whole thread.
James

Gym climber
City by the Bay
Mar 2, 2005 - 10:10pm PT
Bad Ass Baby is a really cool "boulder problem" out in the far awahnee circuit
Twist of Fate Looks rad-though the mantle seems more committing than I was willing to partake in
Also Space Invaders is one of the most splitter cracks in Yosemite though getting off the ground is hard
Leroy

climber
May 19, 2005 - 06:05am PT
What Space Invaders is thaat?The Space Invaders I know,is a wide crack.Also a super classic.The Gauntlet and the Blade.
climberweenie

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 19, 2005 - 07:11pm PT
Here's my vote (Via Aqua) from a very small sample size:


But the one bolt on the route could use replacement:
Claude

climber
where I'll end up
May 19, 2005 - 07:32pm PT
Quicksilver
Pat and Jack Pinnacle

Bring it.
Weenis

Trad climber
Shastafaria
May 20, 2005 - 11:33am PT
I don't know if you would call it classic but it's cool;
Selaginella Wall. Do one of the filthy open books and finish on this stiff 4 pitch deal. Rated 5.7 or 5.8. Finishes at the Fall's trail.
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
May 20, 2005 - 11:50am PT
Selaginella wins for the obscurity with the longest line! ;-)
herm

Trad climber
Bishop
May 20, 2005 - 09:57pm PT
The Flakes, MCR
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
May 23, 2005 - 12:40pm PT
That chickenhead-covered erratic on top of the Quarter Dome.
Peter Puget

Trad climber
Washington
May 23, 2005 - 01:00pm PT
I'll second Texas Chainsaw Massacre. I remember it being a bit stiff for .11a too.
Old&InTheWay

Trad climber
May 23, 2005 - 10:46pm PT
Beggar's Buttress offers shade, a short approach, five outstanding 5.11 pitches, and lots of adventure to boot.
Old&InTheWay

Trad climber
May 23, 2005 - 10:51pm PT
Shadow of Doubt on HammerDome is an amazing steep knob and edge climb. Due to the bad weather last September, we were forced to crag. We stumbled across this route and were not disappointed.
WBraun

climber
May 23, 2005 - 10:55pm PT
Probably nobody knows of this climb in Yosemite, Atomic Finger Crack.

can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
May 23, 2005 - 11:08pm PT
Cramming for a nice bit of inch and a quarter hands.

Little Wing

Knucklebuster...even better if you get to stand under Indian Canyon Falls.

Alan Doak

climber
boulder, co
May 24, 2005 - 07:15pm PT
I'm a big fan of The Rambler in the Royal Arches area. Wear jeans and a helmet though, since it's runout 5.10 slab.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
May 25, 2005 - 08:34pm PT
Long ago in a galaxy far, far away...

I was happy to see that first bolt on Werner's. I don't
remember it being next to a crack.....Killer approach to
Surprise, as Greg once told me.

...

As for obscure, there is Obscure because of the approach. These
are easy to think of. Then there's obscure because nobody seems
to do the route.


Stay Free is on my list of Obscure Routes To Do, but I'm
waiting for my rocket pack to arrive. Is it any good?

I went to do Essence, but I got half way there and said
FugIt.

How about Back to the Slammer? First a hike, then a climb,
then a rap.

High Pressure seemed obscure without the long approach
(don't try it this weekend). Belay on the pedistal at the
end of the roof for an entertaining view of your 2nd.
:- k
Ken Zemach

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
May 21, 2007 - 04:11pm PT
I loved Inverted Staircase (Fairview). If someone ever gardens out the lower cracks, it'll be awesome, and a nice "addition" in between the difficulty level of the ever populoar Regular Route and Lucky Streaks; there's certainly never a line on it. Just remember that it's wet early season AND there's a nest up there, so it's a late summer/early fall route. Also, I want to thank whoever replaced the bolts on that. Would have been way sketch if they were old.

Since we're on the topic of replacing bolts... didn't the two now-hangerless bolts on Steck-Salathe orginally have hangars? When I went up there, the lower one was badly bent downwards (from a fall I'm assuming), and looked unlikely to hold me if I fell on it. That, and missing the next one, made for a pretty terrifying lead. Am sure replacing those would be controversial, but I'm throwing it out there for discussion... Could we at least think about replacing them with new 1/2" hangerless bolts?
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
May 21, 2007 - 05:22pm PT
A) Windfall- 5.11, on the Tower of the Cosmic Gods. Four pitches, cool location, beater hike.
B) Digital Delight- 5.12a 45' long. Elephants boneyard left of Elephant Rock. Off Fingers flush crack through gray rock. Dimitri Barton first lead this gem in '87, it has probably still seen less than ten ascents.
LongAgo

Trad climber
May 21, 2007 - 06:40pm PT
On some mentioned, and some not:

Apron thoughts: Perhaps - pretty hard and run. Be careful. Punch Bowl - also on the apron, 5.10 and not so run. Fun because it's off the beaten path and requires a bit of figuring to get started. Also in the shade on warm days. Maybe check around before going as rockfall may have nipped some of the route. Don't know.

Crest Jewel on North Dome - probably is more popular nowadays, but since it's a bit of a hump to get there, maybe not done that much. A really fine face climb.

Inverted Staircase on Fairview - yes, a good climb. Again, not so popular. One traversing pitch was protected by an old bolt through a knifeblade blade piton and should be replaced, or backed up and left as a monument to Kamps who was low on hangers that day. For real obscurity, there is Always Arches left of Staircase. Reid & Falkenstein, 1983 mentions it in the index, but there is no topo. Old Kamps Higgins special. Go up slabs below big arches. Keep going. When you're in the mood for a real "beta-minimum."

Others on Fairview: Piece de Resistance - face, off width, roof on beautiful rock. Pretty sustained mid 11 on crux pitch, but well protected. Not sure why it's not done more or why R in old Meadows guidebook, except for maybe the 5.9 off width which is quite solid. I don't recommend Mr. Kamps - quite run 11. But do recommend Unh-Huh, 10a and not done much. Goes over a massive 5.3 roof! Start is a little run, but can be avoided by doing first pitch of Lucky Streaks instead. I like Roseanne and Peter Peter 5.9 and 10a. Neither gets done much maybe because they are both somewhat run out. When You're Strange near Pumpkin is another one not getting done much. Hard to recommend - has a hard move above a sharp little ledge before you can clip a bolt on first pitch, and some long knob runs in other areas.

Cloud's Rest - quite a long adventure, but worth it. Half way between mountaineering and rock climbing on a long, sweeping face. As Roper said in his old guidebook, "Little is known about this route ... Thank heaven. That's the fun part.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo
Ken Zemach

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
May 21, 2007 - 07:55pm PT
Notes on prior comment:

*The Inverted Staircase traverse bolt has been replaced. Thankfully...

*Crest Jewel is pretty well traveled now. I've done it twice from Royal Arches, once with the Direct added on and once without. Both times we were not the only ones on the route. The first time, some couple had, get this, brought a haul bag from Tioga Road to practice hauling! I kid you not. Bless them for trying to do something that they thought no one else would be on though; that was definitely considerate. And they let us pass.

"For real obscurity, there is Always Arches left of Staircase. Reid & Falkenstein, 1983 mentions it in the index, but there is no topo. Old Kamps Higgins special. Go up slabs below big arches. Keep going. When you're in the mood for a real "beta-minimum.""

Holy crap, I've was eyeing those arches last year. Wanted to start on the right hand side, arch up, then across, then back down (meaning some downclimb-ish leading for the follower!) back down to the ground on the left side. Would be hilarious to start AND end on the ground; kind of a pointless "Girdle Traverse-y" climb yet would be at least 6+ full pitches. But you say it's been done perhaps? Sweet! Totally want to try that.

Unfortunately, I'm not that good of a climber, so the adventure stuff gets a little wiggy. But I've still made a personal pact with myself that when I'm not leading my GF up something this summer, I want to be on something that's not in SuperTopo. No offense to STopo of course, but I've found the adventure is well worth the risk of a bad route every now and then. Speaking of which, how are the routes on the Cathedral Spires?
coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
May 21, 2007 - 08:15pm PT
Alley Cat- Middle Cathedral rock. the topo says grassy Cracks, they're not that grassy. There are lot's of nice fist cracks up there!
a.s.

Big Wall climber
SF, CA
May 21, 2007 - 08:31pm PT
This doesn't exactly fit into the genre of mostly longer routes mentioned, but I really liked Vanishing Point.

It's a lesser known classic.
WBraun

climber
May 21, 2007 - 08:33pm PT
The "Lizard King" at the base of the Lost Brother.

A real test piece. Who has done? I did 2nd.

Others
=
Tunnel Vision
Gait of Power
Atomic finger crack
Soul sacrifice
Duncan Imperial
Wild Turkey
Overdrive

And the list can go on and on and on .....
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 21, 2007 - 08:54pm PT
Werner, Dru Marquardt y yo did the third of lizard king shortly (weeks? days? a week?) after you and Coz did the second (replacing the pin that was dangling on the sling on top as I recall(?))

other cool obscure ones,
Midget chimney
Sky

I climbed Soul sacrifce twice when I was 27, once with a 17 yr old and once with a 37 yr old (gimmee time and I'll remeber the names) on at least one of those ascents I utilised 'sliders™
WBraun

climber
May 21, 2007 - 09:04pm PT
Wow, pin that was dangling on the sling on top?

And still I live?
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 21, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
's what I heard, is all ...
K. Fosburg

Sport climber
park city, ut
May 21, 2007 - 09:32pm PT
How about Powerpoint? That route is amazing! Has it become a classic must-do for the grade?
nick d

Trad climber
nm
May 21, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
Werner, "still I live?". Not sure about that one. Can you prove that statment? What is this sentience? Is it quantifiable? Just wanna know your criteria baby!
WBraun

climber
May 21, 2007 - 09:34pm PT
Yes so true Kevin.

PowerPoint first ascent by some guy named Bill Gates.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
May 21, 2007 - 09:37pm PT
"Punch Bowl - also on the apron, 5.10 and not so run. Fun because it's off the beaten path and requires a bit of figuring to get started. Also in the shade on warm days. Maybe check around before going as rockfall may have nipped some of the route. Don't know. "

Punch Bowl had missing crushed bolts when I tried to do it 25 years ago, THEN a huge rockfall poured down over it more recently.

I still climb at the Apron but I think the Punch Bowl is history

Peace

karl
bob

climber
May 21, 2007 - 10:05pm PT
Silent Line. If you don't mind pulling on the first pitch(or 13) it has some of the best crack climbing I have done in the Valley. No sh#t. What do you think Werner? Three raps Werner? How far did you go left on the ledge for the descent?
Did Min Ne Ah recently with a buddy. THe rock is not good for the upper part and we used a 6 friend on all but two pitches. OK so the route isn't super classic in rock quality but hanging out on that face, heck, even staring up that face right of YPB is soooooo cooool.
LongAgo, Piece de Resistance seemed like the crux was 12 and on sheeeeeite rock. Constant changing kind of thing. Hearing that you don't think Mr. Kamps is a classic almost hurts me. I think that route sports some of the best climbing on Fairview Dome. Great rock for the most part, quality pro, ok well maybe not so quality at times but fug that route is good.
Retrospective on Fairview is a really great route in my opinion. It has one of the best face pitches on that rock. Make sure you are solid on 5.10. Crux is a sport pitch. Hats off to Mike Schaffer(sp?) for that awsome route.
Bob J.
TYeary

Mountain climber
Calif.
May 21, 2007 - 11:54pm PT
Classics can be a function of your state of mind at the time. The very first route I ever did in the Valley was Positivly Fourth Street. A route hardly worth mentioning except it was my first. A bit of a roof and a lot of bat sh#t. I'm sure Werner has skipped this route(maybe not) It will always be a classic to me.
Tony
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 22, 2007 - 12:21am PT

Dru, @ the top of Powerpoint-one of the best[despite the branding]-(a few days before or after our climb of Realm of the Lizaed King)
WBraun

climber
May 22, 2007 - 12:25am PT
K-man

Stay Free is a winner. The Walt Shipley classic high above Columbia point off the falls trail.

bob

I don't know what people do for the descent on the left side of ribbon falls but I always just kept going west until it got easy.

There are a couple of low angle raps off some twigs. Not too bad.

I don't know, ya just do what you have too. Like you know ....
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 22, 2007 - 12:59am PT
How bout Manana Werner? is that still popular?

You want obscure? Walkabout, 7 pitches, 1 5.11 pitch, on the bellshaped dome below Starr King.

Classic? You can see the line from miles away, leading up and right from the lowest point on the dome to the summit. Great rock, wilderness setting, 1 1/2 hour approach. 2 protection bolts.

Prolly never had a second in 20 yrs.

Overdrive. Cro Magnon Capers. Milestone.
WBraun

climber
May 22, 2007 - 01:05am PT
Kevin

manana is trade route now.

Cro Magnon Capers was some climb Warbler took me to, to try and kill me.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 22, 2007 - 01:09am PT
No man I was tryin to make you famous. It worked too you're on the internet and sh#t.

And get a toprope on a badass offsize with a tricky roof finish.

I wanted to call it Werner's Aroma but you vetoed that.
Nefarius

Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
May 22, 2007 - 01:30am PT
While maybe not "classic" by most standards, the Leaning Tower Traverse, which I Posted a TR for recently,is pretty obscure. It's an obvious "line" that most see and wonder about, but it is seldom done. I thought it was a fun day, adventurous and will definitely do it again. Really moderate with some caveats.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
May 22, 2007 - 03:00am PT
Yo Kevin, Walkabout is 5.11 now? Rick told me you guys rated it 10c. Kinda figured.....did you see our bolts ?
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
May 22, 2007 - 03:14am PT
bad seed on el cap hasn't seen many ascents. there is some great climbing on that line. for sure one that deserves to be done more often.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 22, 2007 - 09:52am PT
Hey Al-

I guess that was you with Rick before us. I knew Rick was up there and we climbed right up to your bolts. Hard not to - it's so obvious to that point. You guys took off right to steeper rock, and a continuous line that looks like another route to do out there. Got too hard and blank. We found a series of mantles and face holds that fit together nicely and gained a straightin crack system, seemed 11a. The next pitch is a 150 ft fingercrack with perfect nut slots every 10 or 15 ft, about 9+/10a. One of the sweetest unclimbed pitches I've ever done.

Do you know anyone who's done it? I'd say there's 3 or 4 good independent lines left to do on that dome.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
May 22, 2007 - 11:14am PT
Kev, you guys scored....nice one! How about the field of big knobs on the right side....one of these days!
bob

climber
May 22, 2007 - 11:27am PT
Did a route a couple years back where we started on Werner's Ant Trees(no ants) to Surprise(great surprise that one!) to Indica Point. I Believe it to be a D. Barton/ W. Shipley route. Sitting in Res. 4 or 5 and looking up at that beautiful book all the time. That book being Indica Point. The last pitch to the railing on the Falls Trail is pretty friggin cool. Ending up there is what made it classic. Our buddy was waiting with his feet hanging over the edge. I wanted to grab his foot. Ahhhhh Indica Point. Great way to adventure your way up that whole Five Open Books area.
Back to Tuolumne....The Nazgul is really fun. Its on that wall to the right of Hobbit Book and Mesmerized. Speaking of Mesmerized, the route as a whole blows for the most part, but the roof is REALLY rad. Worth picking your way up to it just to do that thing. Lead it then TR!!!! Another great hang where you're pretty much ensured to have it to yourself. Maybe not anymore because of this thread, oops. j/k
I love this stuff. Please keep giving me ideas folks.
Bob j.
LongAgo

Trad climber
May 24, 2007 - 06:51pm PT
Karl, Wow, incredible to know an entire route of mine is gone. Humbling. Punch Bowl wiped out. Thanks. I'll stop suggesting people go look, never mind myself going up there for old times sake (though maybe it could be "replaced," a true phoenix).

Largo, I too liked Black Rose, but it is run. But on fabulous, imposing, black rock, especially in the shade. You’re probably right about Abstract Corner - little traffic. But I did flop on it several times. Couldn't seem to figure it very well. Bad day or maybe it's just very hard.

Ken, Always Arches goes through the arches on the left side of Fairview. Not in any guidebook. Higgins Kamps pre 90's, maybe pre 80's. Careful, don't go up the black steak below arches to white streak above. That's Burning Down the House, a totally different kettle of fish. Third class up the slabs to obvious crack system slightly left and above center of arch. 5.10 over arch. Continue another pitch straight up to under another arch, bolt above. 4th pitch past another bolt to another arch, then crack to big ledge. Here one can escape left or ... I'll leave it at that for the adventure in store.

Bobj, OK, good to know Piece de Resistance crux pitch isn't the beauty I remember. Funny how memory does that. I do remember a few flaky flakes, but not many. Maybe it's changed - good call for those interested. As for Mr. Kamps, you are right, wonderful rock, generally good pro, but I recall one pitch traversing right, then straight up where it seems like 11 many feet out. Seemed very scary, and I didn't like the zig zag rope deal. Maybe it's a double rope pitch? Or my memory is jumbled up - a real possibility.

Tom Higgins
LongAgo

snyd

Boulder climber
Asheville, NC
May 24, 2007 - 07:04pm PT
What about that 11d splitter way up in Lehemite Canyon? 2 pitches, 5.10 and the business. Long Hike!
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
May 24, 2007 - 08:02pm PT
Tom, I too lost a nice route to the left of Punchbowl to rockfall. " The Punchline " ( no not the one on Arch Rock) 10d, 6 pitches w/Brians' Bennett and Bailey was a beaut ! Also enjoyed Punchbowl.....dam rockfall !
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
May 24, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
not exactly lesser known but,

way classic
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 24, 2007 - 10:25pm PT
Tom-

I'm stoked to hear you did Black Rose and appreciated it, not many have. You and Bob Kamps were great inspiration for me, and John Long in our early climbing years and we always tried to emulate your bold style...you guys set the bar high.
Towshab

climber
San Diego, CA
May 25, 2007 - 10:52pm PT
We did the thief the other day. The second pitch was a classic. But I don't think it gets done to much because of the first "4th class" pitch.
Mimi

climber
May 25, 2007 - 11:36pm PT
Hilarious Warbler about WB's aroma! I don't recall him being aromatic although his ring structure is resonant and uncommonly stable.

Pink Dream to Fatal Mistake
Good Book
Wing of Bat
The Promise
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 26, 2007 - 02:03am PT
Mimi -

at least someone thinks that's funny, I WAS hoping to get a response from Wonder Brawn, but he's wafting around above it all.
Mimi

climber
May 26, 2007 - 02:07am PT
Unflappable like a noble gas. heh-heh

Brawnium? Where does that element fall on the periodic table?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 26, 2007 - 02:14am PT
Between Cranium and Delirium?

Oh and The Thief, I always thought it was one of the top ten Valley thin cracks, but I'm biased. And the approach pitch is a piece of piss - if that puts you off you ain't no real Valley climber.
Mimi

climber
May 26, 2007 - 02:25am PT
The Thief was on my list in my journal but someone had me cross it out. Sounds like bad advice at the time. Looking forward to it!

Warbler Inquiry Edit: How's The Joker next to The Thief? Gotta do Barefoot Servants (5.10c OW) while up there too. Nice trifecta and way burly!
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
May 26, 2007 - 03:53am PT
The Thief is a beauty, straight in straight up splitter, brief crux if I remember correctly. I think somebody did a face route over there on a gold swath of stone as well. Anybody know about it? While we are on the subject, another obscurity with a junky approach pitch is the Viper, 511.b in the lower canyon. Worth doing in the fall when you can cross the River. I think Grant or maybe Werner picked this plumb.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 26, 2007 - 04:01am PT
Don't know about Barefoot Servants - it looked good on rappel.

The Joker had some real good climbing on it, but I think it was a little licheny. Seems like the hard climbing was over when you reached the crack. I think we used a pin or two to protect the traverse left and the faceclimbing up. Don't have a real good picture of it in my mind, but I remember enjoying it for it's line and unique climbing.

I do remember a possible direct start from the ground.

You might bag the second.
Walleye

climber
The Land of the Big Stone
May 26, 2007 - 10:19am PT
Walkabout.

I always wondered who did that thing. There are so many routes to do in the Starr King vicinity. Back when I was climbing seriously I wanted to make a base camp and hang out for a few weeks and do new routes. Never could find a partner though as most "climbers" I knew didn't want to be away from the deli for too long.. That wall at the southern end of the Starr King Massif has tons of potential too.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 26, 2007 - 11:52am PT
Anyone climb that bolted underclimg route may be called Lightning bolt crack
on Mt Broderick?
I think Walt finished it with maybe Schultz after we had had a wee epic on in years earlier when packing home made giant cams.
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
May 26, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
Golden Bough. usually has too many oak leaves in the finish, but otherwise a nice climb and pretty mellow for a Grade IV .10

On my first attempt I got many pitches up something way scary and way too far to the left... (shudder)
WBraun

climber
May 26, 2007 - 01:30pm PT
Jaybro

The Lightning bolt crack on Mt Broderick was climbed by two SAR guys Gleason (The son of Phil) and Dana last summer.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 26, 2007 - 03:22pm PT
How about The Vortex on the Fifi Buttress? Did that line ever see any action? Sure looked tasty on paper if a bit stout!
hobo_dan

Social climber
Minnesota
May 26, 2007 - 03:59pm PT
not really unknown but.........
I thought the best looking crack was Mr Natural-its like someone bent the apron and it snapped.

A route I have enjoyed is Bishops Terrace. Ends with locker twin 5.8 cracks that are marble statue smooth
duncan

Trad climber
London, UK
May 26, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
Steve, I tried The Vortex with a Washingtonian (John Carpenter?) in '82 or '84. We got to the fifth belay, but ran out of gas. The climbing was excellent to that point.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 26, 2007 - 06:10pm PT
Chick Holtkamp, Randy Russell, and Eric Zschiesche put a lot of effort into the Vortex and raved about it. If it were more accessible, it would see a lot more traffic.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 26, 2007 - 06:17pm PT
Speaking of Fifi Buttress, does The Warbler have anything to do with you, Kevin? Done in 1982 by Werner Braun and Ed Berry with the FFA by Bellizi and company).
K. Fosburg

Sport climber
park city, ut
May 26, 2007 - 07:28pm PT
I remember Eric Z. describing the Vortex as an "Engineerin' Marvel" with a nod or maybe it was a wink.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Bodega, CA
May 26, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
Point Beyond/Angel's Approach to Lucifer's Ledge. Wear a helmet.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 27, 2007 - 02:29am PT
Yeah Steve


I climbed to the top of The Warbler with my girlfriend and spent an afternoon cleaning it. Went back and made an attempt at it but couldn't lead the crux, never got back to it. Werner did it and named it. It's a great fingercrack second pitch, and the first pitch is also good.

Off the beaten track and the better for it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 27, 2007 - 11:47am PT
Thanks Kevin- I had a feeling events were connected here. Nice to have the cleanup crew be your friends for a change.

Eric Z is an indelible character for sure. He spent some time in Tucson so I had the pleasure of getting a taste of what he was serving up back then. The guy was a natural and could climb harder routes in his Hushpuppies than I could likely get up back then. LOL Just like a cool breeze...............right when you need it!
Mimi

climber
Mar 11, 2008 - 12:15am PT
With climbing season right around the corner, here's a bump for a gem of a thread!
martygarrison

Trad climber
atlanta
Mar 11, 2008 - 11:28am PT
I third (or fifth) thief, gauntlet, essence. great thread.
localdan

Trad climber
Exeter, CA
Mar 12, 2008 - 01:33pm PT
What about the NW face of Middle Cathedral Rock? Anyone?
ring tailed cat

Trad climber
seattle
Mar 13, 2008 - 12:32am PT
great thread, so many fun times. how about yasoo dome reg. route, any body trek up for a climb with a great position in tenaya canyon. coonyard pinnacle, 1st accent in stiff soled shoes, nuts! reg. route pharohs beard, out of the way and you can do ying-yang and manana in the same outing. east but. of el cap, not to be missed, along with ne but. higher cath. rock and steck-salthe, the best classic grade iv's in the valley. cheers rtc
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 13, 2008 - 01:04am PT
Haven't done the NW Face of MCR, but I've been at the base, and the route looks pretty clean and fun. Really nice rock. There were a surprising number of scraps of faded webbing on the ledges around the start of the route, whatever that means.

Soul Sacrifice is a classic, really unique climb over in that zone.

The Audubon Buttress has four classic short crack climbs in a beautiful, isolated location. The Dove is a sweet 2 or 3 pitch 5.8 route with a cool low angle splitter handcrack, Eagle Feather a midrange 5.10 thin crack, Wild Turkey A 5.10 + offsize straight in splitter, and Duncan Imperial, a perfect, clean corner with a thin crack in it and a tricky 5.11 roof crux. You can't see any of those routes til you're right at the base, and you gotta walk a while to get there.
WBraun

climber
Mar 13, 2008 - 01:05am PT
Yeah Audubon Buttress

Those were the days Kevin
Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Vancouver Canada
Mar 13, 2008 - 01:06am PT
When festering a little too late in the morning, Walt lit up and said that Ward and I should do Siberian Swarm Screw. We set to and were completely entertained.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Mar 13, 2008 - 01:19am PT
Yeah Werner,

I don't think I ever laughed so much on a climb as you, me, and Eddie did that day on Duncan Imperial.

Wonder Brawn cracked the sequence...again!

It's cool how routes like that, that you never go back to, or even see again, can be wedged in the folds of your brain like a bomber handjam for life.

clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
East Buttress of Lower Cathedral good.

So how is the North Buttress of Middle??
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
May 16, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
poker face
ilsa, she-wolf of the s.s.
beggar's buttress

all killer, no filler, and ya never see anyone on 'em, at least you didn't back in the mutafukkin' day...
Double D

climber
May 17, 2008 - 12:06am PT
Dynamo Humm above camp 4...way above. Kevin, didn't you put that up? If I remember the crux (for most) was the last few moves on tips and this little quartz crystal for your foot. But the crux for me was the 5.9 OW. Classic little obscure line.

I've always wondered if anyone did any further routes up there. It's kind of a wild looking place.

The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 17, 2008 - 12:34am PT
Hey Dave,

Dynamo Hum, Dynamo Hum-

Where's that dynamo comin' from?

Stroked an I poked 'til my wrist got numb,

But I just didn't put up Dynamo Hum.



Eddie Barry maybe? - He was obsessed with that song for a while.


WBraun

climber
May 17, 2008 - 12:38am PT
The Fist-a-bule at "Serria Point".
Double D

climber
May 17, 2008 - 12:42am PT
Kevin … Ed was too busy keeping Sausalito Archie in check for that action!


The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 17, 2008 - 12:46am PT
Hi Werner -

Did you ever do Bear Necessities? Reider and Chappy did that one first.

Speaking of Rik - I did Tightrope on the Apron with him - that's probably the best Apron climbing I've done.
WBraun

climber
May 17, 2008 - 12:58am PT
Bear Necessities?

I don't know Kevin? Probably not if I can't remember.

By the way it's hot right now, hot, real hot, baking hot and the mosquitoes are hungry. The river is rising, and the grass is growing.

And there's so many people here ... it's a nuthouse. Maybe tomorrow it will be february again .... peaceful.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 17, 2008 - 01:03am PT

Werner,

Already hot?


Too early for that. It'll cool down again - once or twice. You know where to go to chill...

I'll see you in June.

KW
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 19, 2008 - 09:45pm PT
hey there warbler... say, i just saw this thread... and was checking it out... (backwards, though, oh, my, so i dont know what the first part is, but will look soon)...

say, as to your quote to werner:

"Hi Werner -

Did you ever do Bear Necessities? Reider and Chappy did that one first.

could you post of picture of what this climb is---that my brother did (chappy)....

is there a nice pic of the rock (bearnecessities), or is it a group of rocks... thanks a lot, if you can ... i will also try to look them up...... :)
Professor

Trad climber
Logan, UT
May 19, 2008 - 10:16pm PT
Has nobody mentioned Positively 4th Street.

The first two pitches were perfect but I had to clean a few years worth of leaves out of the upper pitches to get jams and pro in there.

I seem to remember a nice featured and unclimbed face to the left of the upper pitches as well...
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 19, 2008 - 10:41pm PT
Hey there neebee -

I mentioned Bare Necessities because it's near Sierra Point, which Werner mentioned in his previous post. The route is rarely done, maybe never in the last twenty years - it's pretty obscure - I imagine many posters here wouldn't know where to look for it.

It's above the little trail to Sierra Point on Grizzly Peak (hence the spelling), visible from Happy Isles bridge, I believe. It's a diagonal thin crack on a steep, licheny slab, hard 5.10, if my memory serves me well.

The route is all by itself up there - far as I know. Don't know who'd have a photo. If you know where to look on a photo of Grizzly Peak from Happy Isles, you'd see it (if you can find one).
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 19, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
hey there warbler.... wow, say, thanks a lot... i will try that... thanks, from a very happy to learn, neebee...

god bless!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 19, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
hey there all... yeah, say,.... i realy like this stuff on yosemite as we saw so much of it while growing up... it is like part of us....

i never, of course, knew about any of these lesser known, though JUST AS MIGHTY spots...

thanks guys... this is great stuff-info...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 19, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
hey there warbler... say, i found a link for grizzly peak.... natually there'd be one...

i think this is the wrong angle... i would have wanted to see more to the ???left side??? ... not sure... i may be wrong..

here is the link i saw... with the pic..
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/154001/summitpost.html

also, say:

i learned about CHARLES BAILEY...

you sure learn a lot around here... :)

*got to get off and do some work... will be back to see if there is more neat history reads from you all...

i like this thread... thanks, to the started... your name was too hard for me to remember how to spell it.. i'm sorry...

it started with a "c"
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
May 19, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
It sure sounds like a lot of can go out and get first ascents of stuff that's been done before. I'm in.

Tom
Radish

Trad climber
Exeter, California
May 20, 2008 - 02:28am PT
Did anyone mention the South Face route on North Dome?? Man, thats a classic one, with views of Half Dome right there and the Valley below. We just hiked in from Porcupine Flats I think and camped on top of the Dome. Around 7 pitches and only a Yosemite 5.7!!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
May 20, 2008 - 02:41am PT
hey there clustiere... i was on checking email, for one last time tonight... say, thanks for this neat post... (thread)... i got your name now.... sorry i messed it up ... (i get things backwards sometimes and did not want to mess it up with the i, e's...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2008 - 10:28am PT
Dynamo Hum (up behind C4, uphill from Henley Quits, was originally C4 tree, and the FFA was Largo and Tobin 75.
Double D

climber
May 21, 2008 - 11:25am PT
Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!
clustiere

Trad climber
berkeley ca
Topic Author's Reply - May 16, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Bump for yosemite climbing trip!
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 19, 2009 - 12:27am PT
Since clustiere bumped this back up, might as well answer his question of last year: N buttress (regular) of Middle Cathedral is good. A few sections of undistinguished (easy) climbing, but quite a lot of good pitches too; not to mention the obligatory short grovelly tunnel-through chimney for a Harding route (way easier and a bit dirtier than most though). The 10a corner high up is really good climbing, with passable TCU or small wire pro, wish the one ancient spinner bolt there were better but you are OK without it (especially if you select B: do not fall). Whole climb is maybe not quite so good as E buttress, nor as hard and sustained as NE buttress of Higher, but pretty damn good.

Another rarely done route that's also pretty good is East Corner of Higher Spire. 5.9 or harder on almost every pitch.

In the slab realm, do something worthwhile (not Harry Daley) to get to Monday Morning, then to Patio, then to Coonyard. After MM slab, you won't find a line in front of you. Great rock, climbing similar to Grack Marginal which people rave about. Reasonable runouts (rhymes with R).
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
May 19, 2009 - 12:55am PT
The south facing wall of The Devil's Dancefloor holds some classic sportbolted faceclimbs.

Now that Tamarack Flats Campground is open, it's a 30 minute approach.

Some of the best faceclimbing I've done in the Valley. Amazing rock.

One 3 pitch route, Eldorado, climbs over a six foot roof on the first pitch, up a golden, hold infested, ever steepening 12a face on the second, and a Tuolumne style crystal slab finishing pitch, 11+.

There's a freestanding pinnacle up there, with a real nice 2 pitch route, 11 d arete 1st pitch, and double water groove with huge knobs 5.11 second pitch, The Medicine Man.

Don't know of any ascents other than our crew.
Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 21, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
I totally agree about East Corner on Higher Spire, I think it's a much better route than the Reg. on the spire.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
May 21, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
Essence is a really cool two pitch climb 5.11. It just is quite a hike to get to.
Trad-Monkey

Trad climber
SF, CA
May 21, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
SuperSlide, the bottom pitches are a blocky adventure but the last pitch has a totally classic splitter hand crack.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
May 21, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
DD wrote: "Thanks for the info on Dynamo Hum Peter. It never ceases to amaze me at the diversity of climbs that John did. The crux move is on pinky tips...and Largo's mitts ain't that small!"

Now that's a route I hadn't thought about in like 30 years. There were some dime edges by the crack and by using the edge of the tip seam as an edge itself, it was possible - barely. The first bit is hard as well.

Devil's Dancefloor has got to be one of the great names in all of Yosemite.

Not at all obscure but super duper good is the Lost Arrow Tip free. Never hear about people doing that one.

And for a super obscure and totally forgotten run out gem, try Chain Reaction, or the easier Peanut, to its right. Both good climbs.

Lastly, The Fin. Great 11d finger crack.

JL
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