Stack figured out where the free line goes-there's a number of deviations from the aid line and I assume he cleaned the route and added bolts if they were necessary. I'm not exactly sure if there were bolts added to the free line you'd have to ask him or Tommy/Justen.
Thanks, James. I was just curious if bolts had been added to the original aid line. It seems that the addition of bolts in order to free a wall route is becoming more acceptable these days. Hope to see you in the Meadows this summer.
When I was up there a year or so ago, the last horizontal ladder bolt, for the penji to the pillar/flake, was a rotten 1/4"er, but the second to last one was a brand-new, shiny 3/8"er. Since I was going to have to do the swing, I thought, WTF? Why put the good bolt THERE??? Should I repair the bad one, so the fairly hard penji is safe? What is going on here?
I swung (crazily, by the way) off the rotten bolt, figuring that if it broke, the shiny new one would keep me safe.
It might be that the shiny good bolt is where the free moves lead up and onto Chickenhead Ledge.
I can't say what the entire route is like, because we diverted and did the nice Albatross crack. But, the sections of the original route we did were not pounded out, except for the pitches above Chickenhead which are now part of the Shield. For the most part, the other cracks were all there, au natural.
My guess is that they avoided the pounded out/fixed roof crack, three pitches above Chickenhead, by scaling the nearly featureless, but sorta low angle (sic) face below, going up and left.