Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
May 27, 2008 - 06:23pm PT
|
Thanks, James. I was just curious if bolts had been added to the original aid line. It seems that the addition of bolts in order to free a wall route is becoming more acceptable these days. Hope to see you in the Meadows this summer.
|
|
NinjaChimp
climber
someplace in-between
|
|
|
May 27, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
|
I'm going to assume James is referring to the free variations that deviate from the original aid lines. Some of these variations have new bolts on them.
From the Alpinist web page, "The free version, which adheres only 60 or 70% to the original route, takes a line more logical to free climbers."
-Justin
|
|
Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
|
|
|
May 27, 2008 - 10:49pm PT
|
So maybe all of the new bolts were placed on the free variations? If so, then I guess we don’t need to lump this one in with Arcturus and the list of others. Cool deal. Thanks Justin.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
May 28, 2008 - 01:24am PT
|
Amazing. In the early 80s it seemed hardly conceivable that one or two El Cap routes might be freed and it turns out to be more than a dozen so far.
congrats and wow
Karl
|
|
Dogtown Climber
Trad climber
The Idyllwild City dump
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2008 - 12:18am PT
|
And the hits just keep-a come-in.Nice work lads!!
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2008 - 01:37am PT
|
My 2-cents on the second penji pitch:
When I was up there a year or so ago, the last horizontal ladder bolt, for the penji to the pillar/flake, was a rotten 1/4"er, but the second to last one was a brand-new, shiny 3/8"er. Since I was going to have to do the swing, I thought, WTF? Why put the good bolt THERE??? Should I repair the bad one, so the fairly hard penji is safe? What is going on here?
I swung (crazily, by the way) off the rotten bolt, figuring that if it broke, the shiny new one would keep me safe.
It might be that the shiny good bolt is where the free moves lead up and onto Chickenhead Ledge.
I can't say what the entire route is like, because we diverted and did the nice Albatross crack. But, the sections of the original route we did were not pounded out, except for the pitches above Chickenhead which are now part of the Shield. For the most part, the other cracks were all there, au natural.
My guess is that they avoided the pounded out/fixed roof crack, three pitches above Chickenhead, by scaling the nearly featureless, but sorta low angle (sic) face below, going up and left.
|
|
caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2008 - 06:24pm PT
|
Wow. Just saw that Tommy went back and led the entire route in 20 hours! Amazing stuff.
The story is on the alpinist site.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!