caldwell/sjong free magic mushroom


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Santa Cruz
May 20, 2008 - 07:00pm PT
In a push?...does that mean they didn't bivy on the wall

Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
May 21, 2008 - 11:03am PT
Growing Up vs. the Mushroom: sorta opposite ends of the spectrum, eh?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 21, 2008 - 12:32pm PT
Amazing! I can't even imagine what it's like to be that good of a rock climber.

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
May 21, 2008 - 12:35pm PT
Wow! This is starting to seem commonplace. What's next?


Ice climber
Ashland, Or
May 21, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
"In a push?...does that mean they didn't bivy on the wall"

I was wondering the same thing.

Social climber
Davis, CA
May 21, 2008 - 01:06pm PT
I think 'push' as used in that article means they never came down. It said it took them 5 days, I don't see how it's possible to climb at that level for 5 days straight with no bivi. Sounds like some mixed up terminology (if indeed 'push' means a continuous no bivi ascent.)

Another thing the article said I thought was a little odd was that they both led every pitch and swung leads. Just sounded funny.
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
May 21, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
"Growing Up vs. the Mushroom: sorta opposite ends of the spectrum, eh?"

"After working the route for five weeks, Caldwell and Sjong began their free ascent on May 12 at 5 a.m."

Maybe not so much.

Big Wall climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
May 21, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
I agree. I think the Alpinist uses single push to say that they stayed on the wall and climbed all the pitches without coming down. As opposed to the older style of redpointing the wall in chunks with time on the ground between attempts.

Sorry for the confusion, my previous post has been edited.

Trad climber
primordial soup
May 21, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
alpinist actually called it "a 5 day push", which clearly means they bivied.

so here's my question, do these guys freeclimb 5.14 AND haul?
'cause that's burly if they do-

(and for the 2 of them to take 5 days, i'm guessing yes)

or do they have sherpas and a photo crew?
cause then i'd wonder if they are eating sushi up there too!

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
May 21, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
very noyce!

That must have been TC on the bridge yesterday afternoon afterall.

He looked like he had just been craggin it, not sending a free ascent up the massive monolithic stone the day before.

Patrick Sawyer

Originally California now Ireland
May 21, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
If it is indeed the case, I think that The Fet has a valid point.

However, I could never free climb at such a level, whatever the case, in a thousand, no make that a million, years.

Trad climber
May 21, 2008 - 07:30pm PT
OK good to get some clarification on the style of the FA. Not as godly as I thought, but still amazing.

Social climber
Davis, CA
May 21, 2008 - 07:41pm PT
Well, concerning the time, they both had to lead each pitch. I'm guessing they cleaned on jumars but who really knows. Then rap and repeat.

If someone wanted to truly swing leads they could really cut down on the time.

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 21, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
They did swing leads. From the Alpinist details: "Climbing ground up in a push, they each freed every pitch, swinging leads."
Greg Barnes

May 23, 2008 - 09:48pm PT
Double D

May 23, 2008 - 10:01pm PT
WOW! I don't even dream in that realm. Nice job!

Big Wall climber
El Cap
May 24, 2008 - 04:35am PT

Very nice! Congrats boys.

Does anyone know how fast they did it, or if they did it in a day? It MUST have been faster than me, Ivo & Keven's epic adventure.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
May 24, 2008 - 04:46am PT
5 days, Ammon. When the article said "in a push", what they really meant was that they did not fix lines from the base.
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
May 26, 2008 - 11:23am PT
Here is quite a bit more detail:

Social climber
The Deli
May 27, 2008 - 12:01am PT
That’s pretty amazing stuff – definitely ahead of our time.

“The route was tried a few years ago, 4?, by Adam Stack, who equipped a lot of the rig but never managed to free it in its entirety.”

James, can you please explain exactly what you mean by “equipped”?
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