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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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May 21, 2008 - 12:35pm PT
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Wow! This is starting to seem commonplace. What's next?
burp
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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May 21, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
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"In a push?...does that mean they didn't bivy on the wall"
I was wondering the same thing.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 21, 2008 - 01:06pm PT
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I think 'push' as used in that article means they never came down. It said it took them 5 days, I don't see how it's possible to climb at that level for 5 days straight with no bivi. Sounds like some mixed up terminology (if indeed 'push' means a continuous no bivi ascent.)
Another thing the article said I thought was a little odd was that they both led every pitch and swung leads. Just sounded funny.
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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May 21, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
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"Growing Up vs. the Mushroom: sorta opposite ends of the spectrum, eh?"
"After working the route for five weeks, Caldwell and Sjong began their free ascent on May 12 at 5 a.m."
Maybe not so much.
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cultureshock
Big Wall climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
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May 21, 2008 - 01:16pm PT
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I agree. I think the Alpinist uses single push to say that they stayed on the wall and climbed all the pitches without coming down. As opposed to the older style of redpointing the wall in chunks with time on the ground between attempts.
Sorry for the confusion, my previous post has been edited.
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Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
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May 21, 2008 - 02:19pm PT
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alpinist actually called it "a 5 day push", which clearly means they bivied.
so here's my question, do these guys freeclimb 5.14 AND haul?
'cause that's burly if they do-
(and for the 2 of them to take 5 days, i'm guessing yes)
or do they have sherpas and a photo crew?
cause then i'd wonder if they are eating sushi up there too!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 21, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
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very noyce!
That must have been TC on the bridge yesterday afternoon afterall.
He looked like he had just been craggin it, not sending a free ascent up the massive monolithic stone the day before.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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May 21, 2008 - 07:26pm PT
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If it is indeed the case, I think that The Fet has a valid point.
However, I could never free climb at such a level, whatever the case, in a thousand, no make that a million, years.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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May 21, 2008 - 07:30pm PT
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OK good to get some clarification on the style of the FA. Not as godly as I thought, but still amazing.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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May 21, 2008 - 07:41pm PT
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Well, concerning the time, they both had to lead each pitch. I'm guessing they cleaned on jumars but who really knows. Then rap and repeat.
If someone wanted to truly swing leads they could really cut down on the time.
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cmclean
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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May 21, 2008 - 08:07pm PT
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They did swing leads. From the Alpinist details: "Climbing ground up in a push, they each freed every pitch, swinging leads."
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Double D
climber
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May 23, 2008 - 10:01pm PT
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WOW! I don't even dream in that realm. Nice job!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
El Cap
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May 24, 2008 - 04:35am PT
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Very nice! Congrats boys.
Does anyone know how fast they did it, or if they did it in a day? It MUST have been faster than me, Ivo & Keven's epic adventure.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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May 24, 2008 - 04:46am PT
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5 days, Ammon. When the article said "in a push", what they really meant was that they did not fix lines from the base.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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May 27, 2008 - 12:01am PT
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That’s pretty amazing stuff – definitely ahead of our time.
“The route was tried a few years ago, 4?, by Adam Stack, who equipped a lot of the rig but never managed to free it in its entirety.”
James, can you please explain exactly what you mean by “equipped”?
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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 27, 2008 - 03:30am PT
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Bryan,
Stack figured out where the free line goes-there's a number of deviations from the aid line and I assume he cleaned the route and added bolts if they were necessary. I'm not exactly sure if there were bolts added to the free line you'd have to ask him or Tommy/Justen.
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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May 27, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
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Amazing accomplishment.
Lots of inspiration there, for sure.
Amazing athletes, and nice, down to earth, quiet, unassuming guys.
These are the kinds of people I respect the very most.
-TC (Tahoe Climber, not Tommy Caldwell!)
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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 27, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
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Matt Samet wrote a solid description of their free ascent at Climbing.com
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