Fantasia (Lover's Leap)

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Messages 41 - 48 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Apr 23, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
Howdy all,
How hard are the runout sections compared to Hobbit Book in Tuolumne? Or do they compare at all? I enjoyed Hobbit Book.
Zander
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Apr 23, 2008 - 11:11pm PT
The last time I did it there was a 1/4" bolt knear the knobs and the belay for pitch one was a slotted vertical pin. As has been said all the runouts are easy and the few cruxes can be pro'd even without offsets. If your climbing smart it's a great route. If knott go do something else Knapsack, red's delight is awesome but Mac forgot to mention that in the book.
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Apr 23, 2008 - 11:37pm PT
Gosh, those fellows in Sir Runitout's TR sure are handsome.
Footloose

Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe
Sep 1, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
The Super Topo (c2004 book) shows a pin off the belay (11oclock position about 10 feet up) to the start of the third pitch. That pin is no longer there.

Petch (a couple of months ago) indicated it had been there 7-8 years.

Given the terrain in that area... my opinion is that it should be replaced.

On 23 April 08 Trad wrote: "I have a slight disagreement with the ST topo on the 3rd pitch, though. I've always gone the way it indicates as .10b (based on my first time up there, pre-ST, when my partner did an excellent job of leading and routefinding on that pitch). There's a balancey (sp?) mantle move onto a very large dike, but it doesn't feel more than 5.9 to me. And you can protect with multiple pieces in a horizontal crack just below the dike.

It was an ego boost to see the .10b rating but I sure didn't consider myself a .10b leader the first time I led it. Once, after seeing the ST topo, I explored the '5.9' variation to the right but it looked a lot scarier and dirtier so I retreated back to the more familiar '.10b' variation. Otherwise the topo seems pretty spot on."

This is my opinion too. I think it's "spot-on."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2008 - 01:10am PT
Great route! Headed straight for it back in 1977. I loved the three knobs section and recall one bolt at the belay and one fixed pin higher up. Unless the route is getting greasy I can't really imagine any 5.10 climbing. Just lots of cerebral 5.9. LOL
Petch

Gym climber
Lover's Leap
Sep 3, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
The reason I don't think that pin should be replace is that it's not bomber pro. It probably fell out when someone took a fall or clipping it. I rather know falling is not an option than trust a small pin.
MisterE

Social climber
Sep 14, 2012 - 09:20am PT
Three-breasted woman bump!

Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Sep 14, 2012 - 12:07pm PT
I did it 3 times in the mid-80s. The first time Don Garrett took me up it. Before that Paul Crawford had taken Don up it. I think that was sort of the normal approach in those days; find someone who had been up it before to take you up and then you buy the beers. I led the entire thing twice after that, and at the time I felt real solid on it. Nowadays, I don't know.

It's a great route. I haven't seen anyone on it for a while. The first pitch is the meat. The three gray knobs are thought provoking. I guess it's not really that hard overall, it's the led-out aspect that is intimidating. Really have to be on your game just to maintain freak-out control, though the three gray knobs will make a believer outta you. I think 5.9 is a reasonable rating, just to approach it with a serious focus.

It's a great piece of climbing, to me one of the best routes at the Leap.
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