Fantasia (Lover's Leap)

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 23, 2008 - 01:42am PT
Scimitar sees lots of action these days.
mark miller

Social climber
Reno
Apr 23, 2008 - 01:46am PT
Everything at the leap does that's why we try to avoid from april to dec......
caughtinside

Social climber
Davis, CA
Apr 23, 2008 - 01:53am PT
No way man. You stay off the East wall and corrugation and you never wait.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Apr 23, 2008 - 02:50am PT
I'll grab advanced rockcraft for scanning, next time I'm at the ranch...or do I have it here?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
Apr 23, 2008 - 02:54am PT
sit down for this one...

me an the silent partner have a go at this route:

up the initial slab we go. i get two pieces in, small stuff under the roof. then psyche up for the go left.

head on out, holdin on too tight. commit up a few dykes, then worry about my pump. try to rest. not to be. begin reversing my moves. one thing about the silent partner that i learned right then... one very important thing: it does not take back the slack it gives you. so as i reverse, my fall potential hovers silently. im good though. a little fear to boot.

im ready to retreat. but not quite. i want this thing pretty bad. so this time i focus on just breathing, and don't concentrate on the risk. i breeze through the moves fluidly and find myself above that daunting roof. exhillaration is one of the reasons i go here. and its a good dose now. upwards to the grey knobs. pretty run out. sling the best one and work this section out. first belay and im stoked but pretty mentally spent from the lead. i continue on methodically. down the pitch. second it on jumars.

then wander up the second pitch. very minimal gear and the silent partner keeps locking up due to the rope weight. im fighting it, but not swearing yet. i make the second belay after a lot of fuddling with the belay system. now im mentally shaky and decide to retreat. a team on the adjacent route, fear no evil drops my rope to me and i might be back some other time.

a wonderful place to find yourself though. the route is comprised of very fun moves. an excellent position. mentally exercising. just wait for the right day and it'll will treat you well.

thanks for the opportunity to bellow.
Degaine

climber
Apr 23, 2008 - 03:10am PT
The only bolts I remember on the first pitch of Fantasia are the anchor bolts at the top of the pitch (summer '04).

Climb is pretty mellow, just the run outs to deal with. At 5'4" I found reaching for the knobs on the first pitch a spicy stretch given I was runout at least 20 feet from my last piece, but taller climbers I know say they reached those knobs easily with their feet on a dike below.

Only climbed it once, led all the pitches and for the life of me could not find where to exit on the third pitch. I hit the block under the roof roof 2/3 of the way up and traversed back and forth between the upper part of Scimitar and Haystack twice but did not see any obvious passage, so I stopped f'ing aroudnd and ended up diagonaling up to the top of Haystack.

Have fun!
ec

climber
ca
Apr 23, 2008 - 06:54am PT
I remember shortly after moving to NCal, that on about the second or third trip to the Leap I decided that I had to do this route. Since there was no pro for a distance, I just took-off without a belay (my partner was still fuddling around) and planned to get a piece in at the arch and get a belay...Just short of the arch, I had a foot hold break. Yikes! The rest of the route seemed pretty casual after that.
 ec
August West

Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
Apr 23, 2008 - 12:04pm PT
It has been a long time since I did it, but it wasn't as scary as I was expecting. Although I defintely remember thinking that it would have been a horror show before micro cams.
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2008 - 12:39pm PT
Here's a good one that was related to me a few years ago:

Late in the afternoon a guy returns to camp with just shoes and chalk bag.

"So, what did you do?" -asked one of the slackers.

"Fantasia", he replied.

"Holy shít - you soloed Fantasia??" Most everyone appeared to be in shock.

Then, as it slowly sunk in that you definitely wouldn't want to fall climbing it roped,
it became apparent that it was really knott that much of a stretch to free solo it...
Sir Run-it-out

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Apr 23, 2008 - 01:57pm PT

Here's a link to a TR on Fantasia and Scimitar.
del cross

climber
Bay Area
Apr 23, 2008 - 02:52pm PT
We went to do this route a few years ago partly because we'd heard it was "the best line at the Leap" but also as a warmup for a runout route in the Sierra we'd planned to do later. We came away thinking it wasn't really so bad. I led p1 and p3 and felt like there was enough gear, but from my vantage point p2 looked like it had bigger fall potential.

We didn't do the Sierra route that year so the following spring we were back looking for a runout to warmup on. We chose Quicksilver on the Middle Cathedral Apron, same rating as Fantasia. That route scared me. But the climbing was also a lot better than Fantasia.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Apr 23, 2008 - 02:55pm PT
Ed,
Somehow I've come to think that if it's written, Ed'll have it. We ought to meet up and go do it this summer.

Chris,
Nice sock! What's the story?
Inner City

Trad climber
East Bay
Apr 23, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
I remember leading that route about 15 years ago and thinking it was not so bad. I think that the sticky rubber makes it a lot easier and climbing in Tuolumne alot made the runout seem less scary or something. A nice route.
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Apr 23, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
Great route.

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP17/ascent-robbins


bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Apr 23, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
Awesome pic, Jerry. You can even see the slung knob in the pic.
Trad

Trad climber
Northern California
Apr 23, 2008 - 04:06pm PT
Fantasia is one of my favorite routes, anywhere. In general the hard parts are well-protected and the runout parts aren't too hard. I highly recommend that you guys climb it!

I have a slight disagreement with the ST topo on the 3rd pitch, though. I've always gone the way it indicates as .10b (based on my first time up there, pre-ST, when my partner did an excellent job of leading and routefinding on that pitch). There's a balancey (sp?) mantle move onto a very large dike, but it doesn't feel more than 5.9 to me. And you can protect with multiple pieces in a horizontal crack just below the dike.

It was an ego boost to see the .10b rating but I sure didn't consider myself a .10b leader the first time I led it. Once, after seeing the ST topo, I explored the '5.9' variation to the right but it looked a lot scarier and dirtier so I retreated back to the more familiar '.10b' variation. Otherwise the topo seems pretty spot on.

A blue-black alien protects the first part of the 3rd pitch nicely (after the piton but before the roof).
Hardman Knott

Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
Blue/black Alien - good grief!

BTW, did you mean a hybrid blue/black, or blue OR black Alien?

Either way, let's knott fall and say we did!
Trad

Trad climber
Northern California
Apr 23, 2008 - 08:10pm PT
I meant hybrid blue/black. It's my favorite piece of psychological pro!
Jerry Dodrill

climber
Sebastopol, CA
Apr 23, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
That sling fell off. It was still a long way to his next piece, so it would have been, what, a 60 or 80 footer straight to the belay? and then that much and more below it... But he was focused on climbing and we didn't tell him about it until later. Yikes. Make sure your tie-off is good.
del cross

climber
Bay Area
Apr 23, 2008 - 09:31pm PT
We didn't have a blue/black hybrid, but I put in four pieces in the area Trad is talking about: two small nuts and two small cams. I don't remember, but I'll bet those two cams were a blue alien and the TCU equivalent of a black one.
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