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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 12, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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I used a pro this summer and it worked great. Just bulkier tjan the mini, and you have to use a second locker on it. It is easier to switch out of it to rap at the top than the mini as well.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:29pm PT
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Do you have a photo of your settup, Elcapinyoazz? Is it kinda like the redshirt photo above but with a pro on the botttom?
I used to use a microcender all the time, until it was liberated.
Now I use a single Mini-t but always looking for refinements.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Nov 12, 2008 - 12:44pm PT
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Jay, I can't see most linked photos at work, our net-nanny app blocks most of them, and don't have a pic here, maybe at home.
The set up is straightforward though and basically like the Kauk setup that I believe is posted in this thread somewhere (the red shirt one you mention, I think) except substituting the loop of shock cord for the improv chest harness deal and a pro as the lower one instead of a mini.
I got a 2ft section of medium wt shock cord from Russ and tied it into loop. You'll want to tie the loop at such a length that it just goes into tension when you're slightly hunched over. Put the mini on the rope and clip into belay loop as normal, then girth the shockcord through the big center hole on the mini. Girth the 4" sewn sling to the belay loop below the biner the mini is on, put the backup protraxion on the rope and clip it into the sewn sling. Shock cord goes over one shoulder and you're set.
The backup then hangs low enough that it doesn't bang you in the 'nads, and the main is held close to the chest with virtually no slack in the system and doesn't flop around. Feeds super smooth.
The only annoyance is that you have to remove the girth hitched shockcord from the mini to get it off the rope.
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grover
Social climber
Canada
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Nov 18, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
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WOW!!!
Rigged up 2 minis today like the above pic.
Sweet set-up!!!!
Shoulder season has just ended.
Thanks for the pic!
Mark
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 18, 2008 - 08:57pm PT
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Eeeesh - teeth.
I have never toprope soloed, so can't comment much. What about devices without teeth, like a Gibbs ascender, or Petzl Microscender and/or Shunt?
Has anyone mentioned the importance of weighting the bottom of the toprope to keep slack out of the system? Man, if you get ANY slack in the system on those static ropes that [it looks to me like] Indianclimber is using, I sure wouldn't want to fall on it with a toothed cam!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Nov 18, 2008 - 09:18pm PT
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To address the question, I've used the ProT for TR soloing. It worked, pretty much like the Mini-T, but with a bit more bulk. Feeds nice though.
I found that a backup device gave me peace of mind.
If you do a lot of this, you'll eventually go the route of the two Mini-T's.
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Clod
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Jan 20, 2009 - 03:48pm PT
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I'm new to the forum, and pretty new to climbing. I've tried the two mini-t setup and really like it. But no one on this thread has said much about best practices for unloading the system and lowering off after peeling. All things being equal, let's assume free vertical, so the rock is unavailable. Idears? Any way to rig a grigri into the system, e.g. a grigri with mini-t backup? Thanks!
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Jan 20, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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"I've used the Ushba device. I quit when I read about all of the ropes it's pinched in half."
Can you share your info. reguarding this?
I have used this device for 10 yrs.
Only flaw I experienced is the spring in cam lobe failing,(would still arrest fall), ordered part, and repaired.
My system for shorter pitches under 30m, is to fix rope @ middle, ascend using one "side", and clip to intermitant loops tied in other for back up.
Curious why no-one has mentioned Trango "Cinch"
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CFetterolf
climber
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Jan 20, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
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Clod,
Bring a grigri and a 48" sling with you. If you come off of something steep and can't reach the rock hook up the grigri below your rig. Use your sling to make a footloop (prussic above rig.) Unlock mini-trax biner, step up, and unhook the mini from your harness. DON'T just unlock the cam on the mini cause if it's still attached to your harness it'll cam against the top of the grigri causing the grigri's locking mech to fail to engage (did this once myself trying to be lazy and got a scare.) Take the mini off of the rope and rap.
Anyone not sure about switching modes to lower off probably, no, definitely shouldn't be rope soloing! You will be alone after all.
I use one minitrax. It pushes a loosely tied prussic above. It seems like a good back-up with no real weight added and almost no drag added.
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NotIt
Trad climber
LA westside
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Who sells the cross-loading widget featured in the Kauk picture?
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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DMM Belay Master carabiner. There may be others on the market too.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 29, 2009 - 09:23pm PT
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Great info for TR'ing for solo TR'ing!
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 29, 2009 - 09:50pm PT
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refined my system a bit. Protrax on the belay loop. Use a loop of shock cord over the shoulder to keep it upright, no slack.
I back up with a ropeman clipped to a 12" sling that trails along below.
As mentioned, you have to weight the bottom end of the rope. Works great. Maybe not as plush as two minis, but I already had the pro and the ropeman.
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Double D
climber
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Jun 30, 2009 - 12:03am PT
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I'm sorta cracking up as I read this because basically there's a bunch of devises that can be used together. I've rigged a mini with a jumar, shock-cord to chest sling and it works great. When I looked at all of the ratings, both were rated around 1500 lbs. Two mini's would be way more compact but like every one else...I already had the jug.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Jun 30, 2009 - 12:21am PT
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not clear on this...Seems like most of you are set up to weight the top device first and as mentioned upstream, if the top device chops the rope you're done. How is the lower device a backup?
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blacksun
Trad climber
South Lake Tahoe, California
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Jun 30, 2009 - 01:07am PT
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"not clear on this...Seems like most of you are set up to weight the top device first and as mentioned upstream, if the top device chops the rope you're done. How is the lower device a backup? "
Hmmm that's a good question. But what's more likely to happen, a chop or a slip? Or maybe a sheath rip that allow the top device to slip.
I've wondered about using "X" (Mini Trax whatever etc) device and trailing it with some sort of thing like the small end of a figure 8 belay plate. I haven't seen one but, this mythical device would have a full strength attachment to clip into and at the end would be a simple circle, rounded and non abrasive and just larger than the diameter of a rope. Tie your backup knots whenever you please and if your ascender fails, you slide to the highest knot, which just jams in the mythical device.
So yeah, your top acender is either going to cut the rope or slide, and if it slides, this would be a lightweight simple backup solution. Anyone heard of such a thing? You Could do it with the small end of a figure8 plate, but it would be much better to have a smaller "O".
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Jun 30, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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I use a very similar setup to the above photos. I set up two runners across my chest, forming an X, and I attach a piece of thin elastic cord (purchased at REI) to the X and to the middle of my mini traxion. The elastic just keeps the minitraxion flowing upward smoothly as you climb and nothing more.
I also only use one minitraxion attached to my harness and below that a Tibloc. I use oval locking carabiners w/ small pieces of elastic tied to either side of the minitraxion to keep the mini from cross loading (which it will do easily with a D or pear shaped carabiner.
As far as concern w/ teeth on my sheeth? Well hell, been jugging up many a wall and never had an issue w/ my sheaths. Because the mini traxion device is right there at you, there really is no significant extra force put upon the rope, meaning I never jump/fall onto my rope.
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2009 - 01:43am PT
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Wade, not really worried about chopping the rope. With the elastic cord, falls onto the rope are not severe.
I have used just the pro with no backup a few times. I use the backup for peace of mind if for whatever reason the pro doesn't lock up.
Seen lotsa guys who just use one mini.
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Jun 30, 2009 - 02:51am PT
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Werner said: "I use a single mini-traxion for years now.
But don't listen to me, WTF do I know ..... "
How many times have you taken a pretty solid FALL on it though? (and really when was the last time you fell on anything?) I bought a mini traxion but the teeth just scare me. I'm 190 lbs and a total puss. I finally threw down for a Cinch and am feeling much more comfortable with it.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 30, 2009 - 03:14am PT
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A severe, off-axis, sideways loading of the Pro-T can force the rope between the pulley and the side plate. I had this happen when hauling a big, huge, fat pig (heavier than you are, I guarantee it) and it was a real bitch to unlock the jam.
For TR soloing, this sort of situation is probably never going to occur, but I thought I'd mention it, for the sake of a complete record of Pro-T user feedback.
Again, the haul bag was very heavy, and was being hauled up a traversing pitch, with another climber counter-weighting it from the lower belay. So, there was an unusual combination of bi-directional forces on the device.
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