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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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You know,
This is thing that pissies me off about some ST fags.
Not only do you not know Sean or Doug or their history. You don’t know the route. Now a few do. Coz and the old school Valley boys know. The rest of you don’t know shit! The part that’s rapped is some dice sh#t. Should it have been done that way? It is not for me to say. But it is done. I have said it before,
Go up do it yourself do it in better style if can. But don’t sit your ass in front of a computer and talk sh#t about things you don’t know sh#t about. The people, stone, history or the route.
Dog.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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To put Doug and Sean in the same class as chop, cut, drill and hammer. I have to draw the line. Now I know a bit more about Lions feeding on their own.
Dog.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Aug 23, 2010 - 07:26pm PT
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Amateurs use a Chisel, Fats.
Bring your fork, some varied pins, & a wrench.
Some instacrete for filler & some rock dust.
Or not. I ain't goin' up there, myself.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 23, 2010 - 07:46pm PT
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It wasn't clear to me from "wildone's" post whether they merely scoped out the route on rapell or whether all the bolts were placed on rapell. Which is it? Not that scoping out a route on rap is the best traditional style, but it's not the same as bolting the whole thing.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Aug 23, 2010 - 08:42pm PT
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Bottom half trad, top half rap bolted...or thereabouts.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Aug 23, 2010 - 10:21pm PT
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bottom is trad because it uses nuts and cams, top half is sport because it has bolts and u use quikdraws etc
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dolomite_said
Gym climber
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) . . . Buffering
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Sep 12, 2010 - 04:08am PT
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bottom is trad because it uses nuts and cams, top half is sport because it has bolts and u use quikdraws etc No dis GDavis - it still doesn't wash.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Sep 12, 2010 - 04:48am PT
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"I know what Whillans would have done in that pub.......... hit him.
Awwwwwwww, this thread is alive, now I have to do my FaceLift project with the chisel and tuning fork.
The evil one"
You sure love stirring sh#t, don't ya fat?
Jeff, I think being able to at least climb 5.9 should be a prerequisite to even mentioning a tuning fork or chisel on the internet. I can guarantee you Jeff, that if you were face to face with me in the real world, you'd be keeping your mouth shut. Jus' sayin'.
Truth is, some bad mother f*#kers are going up there this fall. A couple of other dudes who don't give a sh#t about the internet have been on it too. I was just talking with one tonight here in Anchorage, a climber of the best stock, both as a human and an athlete, whom I didn't know had even been up there. Nothing but compliments. In the end, it will get climbed. And then you'll know. But like dogtown said, it's so much easier to just sit there in your easy chair, rocking back and forth, talking sh#t about something you literally know less about than probably anything else in your day to day life. And maybe that's why you like it. Because it's easy. Easier than hiking in and seeing for yourself, that is.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 12, 2010 - 07:18am PT
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You can all STFU cause I have already done the second ascent clean
I had trouble finding the base but the route is totally over-rated. It starts out with some pitches that take a tiny amount of gear, 5.7 tops, and upper slab bolted pitches aren't overbolted at all, maybe just one or two per pitch. What's all the fuss about? Just go do it!
We were followed up the route by the third, fourth, fifth and sixth ascent party!
:-)
Karl
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Sep 12, 2010 - 08:02am PT
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Thanks for putting the controversy to bed Karl. I really appreciate it.
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Sep 12, 2010 - 09:35am PT
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2 years and 2700 posts later someone finally peels their ass out of their computer chair to actually go climb the thing.
You guys crack me up.
While Karl has the ball rolling.... Wings of Steel anyone??
Quote Karl Baba (for those too lazy to scroll back):You can all STFU cause I have already done the second ascent clean
I had trouble finding the base but the route is totally over-rated. It starts out with some pitches that take a tiny amount of gear, 5.7 tops, and upper slab bolted pitches aren't overbolted at all, maybe just one or two per pitch. What's all the fuss about? Just go do it!
We were followed up the route by the third, fourth, fifth and sixth ascent party!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Transporter Room 2
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Sep 12, 2010 - 10:34am PT
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Sounds like they were on another route, eh? ;-)
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Sep 12, 2010 - 11:54am PT
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I think it would be interesting to see Fattrad haul up to the top of Half Dome the 1,000 feet of rope and other gear it would take to chop the route.
Hey buddy, don't blow a valve on your effort going up! That's only a fraction of the work it will take to properly dispose of the route.
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Sep 12, 2010 - 12:05pm PT
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fatty... I'm with wildone on this. you and your tuning fork troll can end at any time. it serves nothing except to make people foam at the mouth.
it's really rather pathetic.
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Sep 12, 2010 - 12:23pm PT
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fatty, i know you didn't resurrect the thread. and I normally like your trolls. sure... it took me years to warm to them. but this particular troll isn't particularly endearing....
jus' sayin', bro...
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 12, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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geez, Karl just demonstrated (with his description of Snake Dike) that we have a few folks here who should be saving up to buy farmland in the desert.
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nature
climber
Whereverland....
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Sep 12, 2010 - 02:01pm PT
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i've got 10 grand already set aside to start a tomato farm in the mohave.
should I grow cucumbers instead?
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Sep 12, 2010 - 02:45pm PT
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you want to be thinking rice: good desert crop.
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