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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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divad, you forgot ron vs. oli
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Back to the route--is it a FREE climbable route, or is that A0 section un-freeable?
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BG
Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
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A BOLT WAR STORY
As Steve said "It's so nineteen-eighties!".
The following is a true story, altough the names have been changed to protect the perpetrators. On my first FA ever, we were scared, and my partner Dan rap bolted in one of the bolts on a route at Jtree (circa 1980). We were proud of our route, which had all 3/8 inch bolts to ensure years of safe climbing on our little classic.
The rock police summarily chopped the route, and Dan called up the guys (Matt and Sam), who fessed up to the fact that they indeed did the chopping.
Dan told me,"If you see Matt or Sam, tell them I'm gonna kick their ass!"
I ran into Sam, in the Mountain Room bar, and I told him "Dan told me to tell you he's gonna beat you up the next time he sees you." My partner Dan was a formidable fellow, and Sam pleaded with me: "Tell Dan we'll put the bolts back in, with Leeper Hangers!" (which were the bomb at the time, but now are all time-bombs, having all been recalled). "I don't know if that's gonna change his mind," is what I told him.
A month later, at Stoney Point, Dan in fact did run in to Sam, and witnesses told me that Dan had Sam down on the ground, flat on his back, Dan's hand on his throat, punching his face for about 5 minutes.
The bolt police never chopped any more of Dan's routes.
A talented local climber replaced all the chopped bolts on the lead, with 1/4 inchers.
Ten years later, the same guy returned, rapped down and replaced all his 1/4 inch bolts with 3/8 inchers.
Go figure.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Sean- I know it must be hard not to respond to the Lowest Common Denominator around here (the threat of violence) but I would try to just ignore it. There is a lot of power in being passive, and letting someone's unanswered (or even better, unacknowledged) aggression and antagonism fall by the wayside. You are way strong enough not to dignify that sh#t with a response. And when you do (not respond) it shows who the adult in the room is.
You and I know the truth about how the bolts went in. I hammered so goddamned much that my forearm and hand would "go to sleep" for almost half the day. Pins and needles. At some points, I could barely hold the hammer, and I only drilled anchors and some of the bolts on the first half of the route, and anchors on "Laid To Rest"...(if you get some time, could you do a topo for THAT route and post it up?)
Before that last bit of caveman BS, I was really back to respecting the hell out of Scott again for being a grown up- Oh well.
Ben
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tradcragrat
Trad climber
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BG,
I know bolts are a controversial issue, but beating the sh#t out of people over it is absolutely f*#king ridiculous. People like your partner Dan should not be allowed to show their faces at climbing areas. Any issue that one climber has with another can and should be settled over a beer and a blunt.
I f#king hate violence.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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settle down "Francis"
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dirtbag
climber
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"There are other, longer lasting ways to make your point without resorting to violence. I'll leave it up to your imagination. :)"
Like this...?
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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FAists and Rock Police rumble at Stoney Point:
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nevenneve
Trad climber
St. Paul, MN
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About damn time this thread took a turn toward death. It's own, not loss of life.
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Sanjan
Boulder climber
CA
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this is the digital age .. you can test flight a whole route on google-earth for crying out loud . the magazine even stoops to featuring that former gymnast or whatever for more sex appeal . naw .
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Since i got left out of the poetry jam a few hundred posts back
My recap
Doug and Jones rapped down the dome
and drilled a pile of bolts
Coz found out and broke his crown
and posts came tumbling after
Peace
Karl
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scuffy b
climber
watching the flytrap
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Who has the comic strip with Main Dude firing Midnight Lightning
and making Coz blow his top?
(I am not implying any correlation between that "episode" and the
current situation)
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jstan
climber
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Karl does this just to get his citation index up.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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What if a stud glues in a 6-piece?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
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IF I find out who chopped the bolts I had to replace on Double Cross last month I will beat the living sh#t out of them and then toss them in the Barker Dam.
Juan
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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JDF
Keep your focus man, this thread is about SFHD/Growing up.
None other allowed!
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Actually, a glue-in bolt would be a good bit easier to chop than a stud of the same diameter,
since there is a larger surface area (and hence more leverage becuase of the higher profile).
In cases where a crowbar or similar prying device could fit in the hole of the glue in,
chopping it would be easier (on an order of magnitude) than a stud, especially studs that are 1/2"...
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Bump to keep this thread on on the front page where it belongs, and most importantly,
to a position above the totally unnecessary, redundant, and distracting "recap" thread...
(and I'll repeat as often as necessary)
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Juan, I chopped your freaking bolt and I'm ready to throw down anytime, anyplace. How about the Tam O'Shanter parking lot Thursday as soon as I finish my shift in the kitchen?
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Peter Puget
Trad climber
Washington
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Couldn't let this thread die w/o posting!
Tradition is the handing on of fire and not the worship of ashes - Gustav Mahler
Tradition is not wearing your grandfather’s hat; tradition is having a baby - Pablo Picasso
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