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nature

climber

Santa Fe, NM

Apr 30, 2008 - 07:44pm PT

HK - work well done. I did the same.

PAWNED!

jstan

climber

Apr 30, 2008 - 08:14pm PT

I am reminded of a W.C Field's story. A fellow addressed the crowd waiting to see him be hung saying,"I can't tell you how much I enjoy the attention you are giving me, but right now I would rather be in Philly."

I don't know why there would be a connection, but after telling this story I have read Field's never again got an invitation to perform in that city.

I doubt the battle for 2000 is over but, whatever.

Sanjan

Boulder climber

Apr 30, 2008 - 08:42pm PT

to put up a route like that on a wall with so much history of epics and tradition is silly .

Jaybro

Social climber

The West

Apr 30, 2008 - 09:03pm PT

to expound on K-man's point, Everybody on this thread needs to remember;
"if you plant ice,
you're gonna harvest wind,"

Jay-morethanjustatouchofgray-bro

survival

Big Wall climber

A Token of My Extreme

Apr 30, 2008 - 10:10pm PT

Midnight, on a carousel ride, reaching for the gold ring
down inside....

Never could reach it, just slipped away,
but I tried.....

Gone are the days, we stopped to decide,
where we should go, we just ride...

Karl Baba

Trad climber

Yosemite, Ca

Apr 30, 2008 - 10:50pm PT

"I am reminded of a W.C Field's story. A fellow addressed the crowd waiting to see him be hung saying,"I can't tell you how much I enjoy the attention you are giving me, but right now I would rather be in Philly." "

Now there an example of the danger of using the rope top down!

Sean Jones

climber

Apr 30, 2008 - 11:06pm PT

Those are not bolted cracks. Those are bolts where the crack pinches down to knife blade size. Except one 50 ft. section on pitch 7. A perfect finger crack ( unbolted ) turns to a 10 in. slopey, way physical lie back. The back of the crack is rotten and wouldn't take gear anyway. And not deep enough to get into and off width. Really bad feet too.

You just have to grab slopey lie backs and go for it. Even with the 5.13 pitch higher, this pitch will shut down many. 5.12 A
wide physical, and way insecure.

I'm trying not to sound threatening here to Zack or anyone else.
But I'm a bit sick of hearing about the whole chopping thing. Be it on GU or anything else.

If you don't like the bolts on this route or any other, either climb something else or skip them. Then you can come back down to the valley and spray about how bad ass you are. Sad to see how much of OUR sport is full of spray. Espessially here in the valley.

Again, don't mean to sound threatening here, but I guess I am.
Before you start hacking away at the next bolt, think hard, and DO NOT let me find out about it. I'm really sick of it and many many many people that I know are too.

PEACE !

Sean.

johnboy

Trad climber

Can't get here from there

Apr 30, 2008 - 11:17pm PT

If no one ever chopped a bolt, there would be no reason to think twice before drilling one.

Russ Walling

Social climber

Out on the sand.... man.....

Apr 30, 2008 - 11:30pm PT

I'm kinda sick of the asss kicking spray. You really going to kick some ones ass Sean? Are you issuing a Valley wide (it was world wide last time) Fatwa on chopping? Just saying... it sure is hard to feed your kids when you are in jail and/or paying restitution and legal fees to some toothless sap you lit up because he chopped some bolts. Get real and reel in *your* spray. If people are going to chop your route, or any route, so be it. You own the rock, and bolts, just as much as the guy who takes them out. You've done your part. Think of it as a catch and release project.

Drift: I'm all for the chopping of the Serenity Crack bolt..... as a side note. If it gets chopped, can the chopper count on a can of whoop-ass from you Sean? Not mamby pamby shiit either, but some solid blows to the control tower. Is this what it is coming to? Do you really have the stomach for it?

Sean Jones

climber

Apr 30, 2008 - 11:31pm PT

Clint,

Nice job on the photo of all the routes. Can't speak for the rest of them but as for ours, the lines are drawn very well.
Nice job upgrading the topo. It looks really good. The only thing off on it is the escape hatch on the s.face route. That actually hangs right above the 5.13 pitch on GU.

That was my fault on the original topo though. The s. face pitches need to be stretched out a bit to make the escape hatch end up just over the top of GU pitch 10.

Nice job and thanks !

Sean.

Gilroy

Social climber

Boulderado

Apr 30, 2008 - 11:32pm PT

Dr. Rock

Ice climber

Castle Rock

Apr 30, 2008 - 11:47pm PT

I'm a homo

johnboy

Trad climber

Can't get here from there

Apr 30, 2008 - 11:50pm PT

Cheese and rice! If you don't recognize that there is beaucoup plenty of thought been given to this route (on both sides of the question)that was not engendered by Royal or Ken Nichols or any other instance of bolt chopping then you are not paying attention.

Sean pointed out that no bolt should be chopped. I was pointing out the idiocy of that statement. Its sooooo one sided, and I believe he's the one crying closed mindedness. Sh#t happens in both directions, get over it.

Your turn to pay attention.

Sean Jones

climber

May 1, 2008 - 12:29am PT

Russ,

I never said a word about punching anyone out. I've never started a fight in my life and don't plan on ever starting one.

Don't really know what to do about all this. Maybe just find the person and give them my oppinoin. Face to face.

If they want to start throwing blows, that's their deal.

Am I going to go around punching people's teeth out and face charges or maybe even get my ass kicked and face charges.

The answer is no. I'm not stupid and not an as#@&%e either.

Am I ready to go face to face with anyone about anything and deal with the consequenses.

The answer is yes. Many people right here in town and even talked heavily about today are also sick of bolt chopping. These are very adament climbers and long time Yosemite locals

Do they have the balls to tell some f%ucker to his face that they're sick of this sh#it ? I don't know. But I do. Do I think I'm some big ass kicking bad ass ? No.

I do understand about things like Serenity and other routes where the original route was disrespected. If someone wanted to change my route, I would much rather they talked to me and explained why first.

So I do understand. But The whole bolt chopping thing needs to be done in super clean style or the end result is even worse.
And I've seen plenty of that around here in 20 years. A bunch of dudes running around policing the rocks, making an even bigger mess, yet were in diapers when the route went in in the first place.

As for Serenity crack and so many others ( guess you can call them cracks now that the seams have been beaten to submission )
The bolt is the least of my worries. Less damage would have been done there and in soooooo many other situations if bolts were placed to begin with.

I really don't know what to say about it all. What to do ? What not to do. Does anybody really know ? Best we can do is keep communicating and try to get to some place that makes sense to everybody. God help us!

Sorry if my attitude sounded sh#tty upthread. Just annoyed a bit and confused like everyone else.

PEACE !

Sean.

WBraun

climber

May 1, 2008 - 12:41am PT

My opinion, not that anyone even gives a sh#t.

Leave the route, (GU), the fuk alone. It's up, and a done deal.

Go home and piss in your pants if you can't handle that.

I'm so glad I'm not a rock climber ....

Russ Walling

Social climber

Out on the sand.... man.....

May 1, 2008 - 12:45am PT

So, your "threats" are the threat of a chat? Seems a wee bit tamer than the previous texts imply.

Sean, I'm not really trying to bust your balls or anything, but guys getting KO'ed is pretty real stuff. It sounded to me like this was going to be the line in the sand.... chop it (or any bolt) and get knocked out. Threats like that would for sure diminish the chopping pool. Or worse, the real possibility of a picket fence smile would drive the choppers underground and then they would become "chickenshit choppers" which IMO is worse than rap bolting. Not that I'm really against rap bolting... per say..... but I do frown on pussy choppers who do the terrible deed at night and then hide in the cloak of anonymity.