Edge Of Absurdity - new 7 pitch 5.8 - Above The Cookie


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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 25, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
photo overlay

side view photo by Ed

Above The Cookie topo http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/ab_cook.pdf PDF version
 Adventures With Linda 5.11b A0 [ReEdit: the A0 was a couple of hangs on the crux pitch to clean moss from footholds]
 Edge Of Absurdity 5.8, 7 pitches

Note: obviously, retreat would not be easy from Edge Of Absurdity, so it's not for beginning 5.8 leaders.

Sunshine Cliff topo http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/sunshine.pdf PDF version
 Waiting for the Sun 5.10a, 3p
 Sweet Sunshine 5.8, 3p
 Not What it Seams 5.10, 2p
 Capital Punishment 5.7, 3p
 Corn Corner 5.9, 3p
 Hob-Knob 5.8 R, 4p
 Slob-Knob 5.7 R, 4p
 Sweet Miracle 5.7, 5x

FAs by Eric Gabel, Linda Jarit, Chad Noble, Ed Hartouni, Brent Botta, and Bryan Kay

Eric drilling on the FA of Waiting for the Sun, photo by Ed

Check out the routes, and post up your trip reports/photos!


happy birthday ablegabel:

The Drift - Ed's trip report:

Dream Easy - new 4 pitch 5.8 at Reed's:

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Mar 25, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
Thanks for the info! I've always thought more routes would go up in that area. I have my friend, Cindy, visiting from Colorado in May, & some of those may have to get added to my "To Do" list for that trip. Very cool!

P.S. Where is the A0 move on Adventures w/ Linda? I didn't see on the topo any A0 move.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 25, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
the route coming out of the tunnel drift, named (of course) The Drift 5.8 I would not recommend... notice the word "scary" on the topo posted above....

It goes through a band of decomposed (and decomposing) granite the likes of which I've never encountered in the Valley. How we managed a passage without killing ourselves or anyone down below is still a mystery to me.

This is a route that definitely does not deserve another ascent.... apparently there was a route, or an attempt, as we found an old bolt (now replaced)... seems that route went right, we went left to a prominent corner to a roof (which is the good granite above) and continued left to escape this band.

The fact that that band is the "roof" of the tunnel is not a pleasant thought.

I have NO images of the climb except for the nightmarish memories... I think Eric has some though (and I could dig up some prints to scan later).
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 26, 2008 - 12:23am PT
Eric making the descent to Sunshine Cliff on the western end of the long 120 tunnel (west most tunnel), January 2006

Sitting at the start of Waiting for the Sun 5.8

On the first pitch traversing out left on features

On the second pitch, moving through the knobs

This is a great winter spot, where you descend to the start and climb out to the car...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 26, 2008 - 12:51am PT
this may be way too much info...

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2008 - 01:18am PT
Nice photos, Ed. Not too much info - I like the overlay photo.

Any sign of poison oak on that approach?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 26, 2008 - 01:22am PT
no Poison Oak here... seems too dry...

I have a large composite of Sunshine Cliff, but I'll have to sit with Eric and the computer and trace the routes on it..

mark miller

Social climber
Mar 26, 2008 - 01:23am PT
That looks like a route I'd enjoy the Shite outta, Thanks Crew...... More moderate adventure routes and less 5.12d seams, spread throughout the Valley are a godsend, thank you folks.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 26, 2008 - 02:14am PT
Looks like some fine adventures. I'm hoping to have a few extra climbing days before or after the FaceLift, and these look like just the sort of thing to do.

Mar 26, 2008 - 10:54am PT
Bring as many climbing pics and pics of rock as you want Ed, it's a glorious relief from the 1/2 a million political threads.


Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
Mar 26, 2008 - 11:12am PT
"Edge of Absurdity", it's a great route for the grade. Some good exposure. You'll never see anybody else out there. The rap into the tunnel is a great unique descent. "you're limping jon" comes to mind. Able Gable has an eye for them.
Also, I did the first ascent of Slob Knob with the wise and powerful Ken Yager. Another man with a great vision. Go do those routes, they're ripe!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 26, 2008 - 03:19pm PT
SuperTopo has an obscuristas dream Forum format.. you never have to worry about you obscure classics being splashed across the "front page" for very long. In a day or two, there would be a few people who actually remembered that some route in some lonely corner of one of the world's most popular rock climbing destination was described, given "dick wrenching mega-classic" status, with multi-star quality, topo'd and accurate approach description given, pictures on the route, and testimonials from well known climbers...
...the thread is plunging to the depths of the server cache... perhaps to be revived very infrequently, and probably only by those few who remembered.

Almost the very definition of obscure...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2008 - 05:57pm PT

I'm planning to make an "online guidebook update" page on my website, with topos for routes not in the current guidebook collected together in one place. Also an updated master route list - like yours, but with the new routes and links to topos, and sortable so people can compare climbs at grades that interest them.

While any route not in the current guidebook can be considered "obscure", this may help the adventurers find new places to explore! Mainly, we are tired of Falcon/Globe Pequot's lameness in not publishing the updated Reid guide, so this is an alternative solution. Supertopo is still great for trip reports and comparing beta, but with a single page for new routes, they won't get lost in the non-climbing chatter (for those who are interested).
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 26, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
I have cliff pictures! I'd be happy to help out by putting overlays on them and post them on my website for reference... and use...

Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
Cool, Ed - cliff pictures are essential, and it takes a lot of time and effort to get good ones!

Mar 26, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
Here's two more good routes, and at the bottom of the cliff is "Joe's Garage".


Trad climber
Mar 26, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
WB, I assume you rap to these? If so where is the drop down point, same a tales?

You can't get there from here
Mar 27, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
Bump to keep Ed happy.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
Topos for Edge of Absurdity and Sunshine Cliff (linked in the first post) are updated.

Here's an overlay for Edge of Absurdity, using Ed's photo:

Jared and I climbed it* on Saturday, and ran into Eric and Kevin up there. Kevin should have a photo trip report ready soon.

* : I didn't have the footwork to do the crux, and had to use the "Afraid of the Edge" variation!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
The overhanging, spotted wall with Tunnel Vision and Gait of Power is pretty striking from the tunnel:

It looks like that cover from Mountain 66, posted by Anders is of Gait of Power?


The cover photo, "The States of the Art", is a painting by David Hague. (from Anders' post)

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