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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 25, 2008 - 09:11pm PT
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photo overlay
side view photo by Ed
Above The Cookie topo http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/ab_cook.pdf PDF version
 Adventures With Linda 5.11b A0 [ReEdit: the A0 was a couple of hangs on the crux pitch to clean moss from footholds]
Edge Of Absurdity 5.8, 7 pitches
Note: obviously, retreat would not be easy from Edge Of Absurdity, so it's not for beginning 5.8 leaders.
Sunshine Cliff topo http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/sunshine.pdf PDF version
Waiting for the Sun 5.10a, 3p
Sweet Sunshine 5.8, 3p
Not What it Seams 5.10, 2p
Capital Punishment 5.7, 3p
Corn Corner 5.9, 3p
Hob-Knob 5.8 R, 4p
Slob-Knob 5.7 R, 4p
Sweet Miracle 5.7, 5x
FAs by Eric Gabel, Linda Jarit, Chad Noble, Ed Hartouni, Brent Botta, and Bryan Kay
Eric drilling on the FA of Waiting for the Sun, photo by Ed
Check out the routes, and post up your trip reports/photos!
links:
happy birthday ablegabel:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=491624
The Drift - Ed's trip report:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=162207
Dream Easy - new 4 pitch 5.8 at Reed's:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=563731
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Mar 25, 2008 - 09:59pm PT
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Thanks for the info! I've always thought more routes would go up in that area. I have my friend, Cindy, visiting from Colorado in May, & some of those may have to get added to my "To Do" list for that trip. Very cool!
P.S. Where is the A0 move on Adventures w/ Linda? I didn't see on the topo any A0 move.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 25, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
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the route coming out of the tunnel drift, named (of course) The Drift 5.8 I would not recommend... notice the word "scary" on the topo posted above....
It goes through a band of decomposed (and decomposing) granite the likes of which I've never encountered in the Valley. How we managed a passage without killing ourselves or anyone down below is still a mystery to me.
This is a route that definitely does not deserve another ascent.... apparently there was a route, or an attempt, as we found an old bolt (now replaced)... seems that route went right, we went left to a prominent corner to a roof (which is the good granite above) and continued left to escape this band.
The fact that that band is the "roof" of the tunnel is not a pleasant thought.
I have NO images of the climb except for the nightmarish memories... I think Eric has some though (and I could dig up some prints to scan later).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 26, 2008 - 12:23am PT
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Eric making the descent to Sunshine Cliff on the western end of the long 120 tunnel (west most tunnel), January 2006
Sitting at the start of Waiting for the Sun 5.8
On the first pitch traversing out left on features
On the second pitch, moving through the knobs
This is a great winter spot, where you descend to the start and climb out to the car...
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 26, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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this may be way too much info...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2008 - 01:18am PT
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Nice photos, Ed. Not too much info - I like the overlay photo.
Any sign of poison oak on that approach?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 26, 2008 - 01:22am PT
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no Poison Oak here... seems too dry...
I have a large composite of Sunshine Cliff, but I'll have to sit with Eric and the computer and trace the routes on it..
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Mar 26, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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That looks like a route I'd enjoy the Shite outta, Thanks Crew...... More moderate adventure routes and less 5.12d seams, spread throughout the Valley are a godsend, thank you folks.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 26, 2008 - 02:14am PT
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Looks like some fine adventures. I'm hoping to have a few extra climbing days before or after the FaceLift, and these look like just the sort of thing to do.
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couchmaster
climber
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Mar 26, 2008 - 10:54am PT
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Bring as many climbing pics and pics of rock as you want Ed, it's a glorious relief from the 1/2 a million political threads.
Thanks!
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coiler
Trad climber
The Rock Monkey Ranch
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Mar 26, 2008 - 11:12am PT
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"Edge of Absurdity", it's a great route for the grade. Some good exposure. You'll never see anybody else out there. The rap into the tunnel is a great unique descent. "you're limping jon" comes to mind. Able Gable has an eye for them.
Also, I did the first ascent of Slob Knob with the wise and powerful Ken Yager. Another man with a great vision. Go do those routes, they're ripe!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 26, 2008 - 03:19pm PT
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SuperTopo has an obscuristas dream Forum format.. you never have to worry about you obscure classics being splashed across the "front page" for very long. In a day or two, there would be a few people who actually remembered that some route in some lonely corner of one of the world's most popular rock climbing destination was described, given "dick wrenching mega-classic" status, with multi-star quality, topo'd and accurate approach description given, pictures on the route, and testimonials from well known climbers...
...the thread is plunging to the depths of the server cache... perhaps to be revived very infrequently, and probably only by those few who remembered.
Almost the very definition of obscure...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2008 - 05:57pm PT
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Ed,
I'm planning to make an "online guidebook update" page on my website, with topos for routes not in the current guidebook collected together in one place. Also an updated master route list - like yours, but with the new routes and links to topos, and sortable so people can compare climbs at grades that interest them.
While any route not in the current guidebook can be considered "obscure", this may help the adventurers find new places to explore! Mainly, we are tired of Falcon/Globe Pequot's lameness in not publishing the updated Reid guide, so this is an alternative solution. Supertopo is still great for trip reports and comparing beta, but with a single page for new routes, they won't get lost in the non-climbing chatter (for those who are interested).
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 26, 2008 - 06:36pm PT
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I have cliff pictures! I'd be happy to help out by putting overlays on them and post them on my website for reference... and use...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2008 - 06:48pm PT
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Cool, Ed - cliff pictures are essential, and it takes a lot of time and effort to get good ones!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 26, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Here's two more good routes, and at the bottom of the cliff is "Joe's Garage".
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martygarrison
Trad climber
atlanta
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Mar 26, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
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WB, I assume you rap to these? If so where is the drop down point, same a tales?
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L
climber
You can't get there from here
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Mar 27, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
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Bump to keep Ed happy.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 06:06pm PT
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Topos for Edge of Absurdity and Sunshine Cliff (linked in the first post) are updated.
Here's an overlay for Edge of Absurdity, using Ed's photo:
Jared and I climbed it* on Saturday, and ran into Eric and Kevin up there. Kevin should have a photo trip report ready soon.
* : I didn't have the footwork to do the crux, and had to use the "Afraid of the Edge" variation!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2008 - 06:19pm PT
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The overhanging, spotted wall with Tunnel Vision and Gait of Power is pretty striking from the tunnel:
It looks like that cover from Mountain 66, posted by Anders is of Gait of Power?
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=307840
The cover photo, "The States of the Art", is a painting by David Hague. (from Anders' post)
Someday!
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Added 2 bolts and 2 pins to the 3rd. pitch recently. This should help get rid of the runout and clarify where the route goes. It was a little hard to figure out what to do before. Good luck and I hope people enjoy it - Eric
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Nor Cal
Trad climber
San Mateo
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We went to do it a month or so ago and bailed after the 2nd pitch, we had a hard time figuring out where the 3rd pitch went, it looked a bit too run out, and we figured it would be hard to bail from any higher. Nice poision oak bush and the start. We will go back some day soon.
While we were there we met Bob, who was putting up new routes on the slab below the Edge. We ended up doing two of these routes.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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May 18, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
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This is great stuff. And the usual effusive thanks to those who put the routes up and provide the info. Clint, one humorous typo to correct in some future version of the Edge topo: a .04" cam is one mighty small unit!
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
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mongrel,
Thanks for the typo catch - I've swapped 0.4" for .04" now.
Here are a couple bonus photos of climbing Edge of Absurdity on April 26 with Jared, Eric and Kevin:
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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May 21, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
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Nice Clint, that cheered me up! Thanks.
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kev
climber
CA
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May 21, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
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In keeping with Gabel tradition, Ian and I climbed Kat Pinnacle on Saturday. We had a stellar day, including loose rock, fractured pins, an incredible 5.7 flaring chimney, and as a bonus a stuck rope. Great fun, beer, and adventure. On Sunday we climbed the Leaning Tower Traverse which is an incredibly fun route. I highly recommend. Perhaps the easiest way to the top of the tower!
Don't believe the rumors - it is NOT an R/X climb and we felt it to be much closer to the 5.5 it has been rated than others have (you might be able to call it 5.6 awkward/slightly loose in places).
I bootied a locker at Kat pinnacle and Ian bootied an offset dmm cam Sunday!
Hope you're feeling better Eric!
kevin
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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May 21, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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very, very cool! Obscurity is it's own reward. I'll bet that "Seven after Quasimdo" is still awaiting a second ascent. Bring a wrench for the bolts on the top of pitch one. Big cams, too!
That one should really be saved for Scuffy! Improbability drive, too!
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kev
climber
CA
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May 21, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
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Jaybro,
Where is it? What's it go at? Got a topo?
kev
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Crowster
Trad climber
Some say the South
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Feb 23, 2009 - 04:58pm PT
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When starting the 3rd pitch of Absurdity.... the move around the corner, above the "Absurd Edge" seemed a little improbable. Was this the right move? Didn't see any other way that wasn't totally off route.
I didn't try it myself, but watching my partner was a little unnerving.
All this went down early Oct. 08. Was very happy with the little bit we did. Want to return soon, I haven't had to retreat in a long time. Maybe the way is a little more painted now. Thanks
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
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Cool looking stuff.
Can one of you has done the route tell me how it would be for the 2nd ?
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kev
climber
CA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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P1 is the easy poison oak pitch. P2 is the great crack. P3 wanders up and right, and p4 is the mental crux. I think you're talking about P4 not P3, if so you were on the right path. You traverse right for 10 ft, pull the crux (of the pitch, 2 moves, very blind) then follow the edge to get some pro. It's spooky. I pitched off of it there. Probably due to my mental inability to commit. It was 15 minutes or so of starting the move then backing off, by the time I'd mustered up the balls, my feet were wasted and greased. That's not the only pucker pitch either.
I led 3 pitches and followed 4. I wouldn't call it a super well protected route, but it's an adventure route. Super fun. Think of it as a 5.8 for 5.10 leaders.
kev
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