Edge Of Absurdity - new 7 pitch 5.8 - Above The Cookie

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 31 of total 31 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
May 3, 2008 - 04:15pm PT
Added 2 bolts and 2 pins to the 3rd. pitch recently. This should help get rid of the runout and clarify where the route goes. It was a little hard to figure out what to do before. Good luck and I hope people enjoy it - Eric
Nor Cal

Trad climber
San Mateo
May 3, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
We went to do it a month or so ago and bailed after the 2nd pitch, we had a hard time figuring out where the 3rd pitch went, it looked a bit too run out, and we figured it would be hard to bail from any higher. Nice poision oak bush and the start. We will go back some day soon.
While we were there we met Bob, who was putting up new routes on the slab below the Edge. We ended up doing two of these routes.

mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
May 18, 2008 - 05:52pm PT
This is great stuff. And the usual effusive thanks to those who put the routes up and provide the info. Clint, one humorous typo to correct in some future version of the Edge topo: a .04" cam is one mighty small unit!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2008 - 05:17pm PT
mongrel,

Thanks for the typo catch - I've swapped 0.4" for .04" now.

Here are a couple bonus photos of climbing Edge of Absurdity on April 26 with Jared, Eric and Kevin:

















ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
May 21, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
Nice Clint, that cheered me up! Thanks.
kev

climber
CA
May 21, 2008 - 06:11pm PT
In keeping with Gabel tradition, Ian and I climbed Kat Pinnacle on Saturday. We had a stellar day, including loose rock, fractured pins, an incredible 5.7 flaring chimney, and as a bonus a stuck rope. Great fun, beer, and adventure. On Sunday we climbed the Leaning Tower Traverse which is an incredibly fun route. I highly recommend. Perhaps the easiest way to the top of the tower!

Don't believe the rumors - it is NOT an R/X climb and we felt it to be much closer to the 5.5 it has been rated than others have (you might be able to call it 5.6 awkward/slightly loose in places).

I bootied a locker at Kat pinnacle and Ian bootied an offset dmm cam Sunday!

Hope you're feeling better Eric!

kevin
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
May 21, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
very, very cool! Obscurity is it's own reward. I'll bet that "Seven after Quasimdo" is still awaiting a second ascent. Bring a wrench for the bolts on the top of pitch one. Big cams, too!

That one should really be saved for Scuffy! Improbability drive, too!
kev

climber
CA
May 21, 2008 - 08:19pm PT
Jaybro,

Where is it? What's it go at? Got a topo?

kev
Crowster

Trad climber
Some say the South
Feb 23, 2009 - 04:58pm PT
When starting the 3rd pitch of Absurdity.... the move around the corner, above the "Absurd Edge" seemed a little improbable. Was this the right move? Didn't see any other way that wasn't totally off route.
I didn't try it myself, but watching my partner was a little unnerving.
All this went down early Oct. 08. Was very happy with the little bit we did. Want to return soon, I haven't had to retreat in a long time. Maybe the way is a little more painted now. Thanks
pk_davidson

Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
Cool looking stuff.

Can one of you has done the route tell me how it would be for the 2nd ?
kev

climber
CA
Feb 23, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
P1 is the easy poison oak pitch. P2 is the great crack. P3 wanders up and right, and p4 is the mental crux. I think you're talking about P4 not P3, if so you were on the right path. You traverse right for 10 ft, pull the crux (of the pitch, 2 moves, very blind) then follow the edge to get some pro. It's spooky. I pitched off of it there. Probably due to my mental inability to commit. It was 15 minutes or so of starting the move then backing off, by the time I'd mustered up the balls, my feet were wasted and greased. That's not the only pucker pitch either.

I led 3 pitches and followed 4. I wouldn't call it a super well protected route, but it's an adventure route. Super fun. Think of it as a 5.8 for 5.10 leaders.

kev
Messages 21 - 31 of total 31 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews