Dream Easy - new 4 pitch 5.8 at Reed's

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Messages 41 - 51 of total 51 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jenren

Trad climber
Sac, CA
Apr 10, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
My Husband and I were climbing the direct route the day they were finishing up. They were kind enough to spend some time going over the route and chatting about what they'd done..very cool people..very cool route..way to go!! : )
Chris Oakes

climber
Hayward
Apr 13, 2008 - 11:32am PT
We turned around before the 120/140 junction because we didn't want to deal with construction delays. We went back to Reeds and met Eric there who was kind enough to give us a topo of the route.

Eric did the huge chimney while we were on Dream Easy and we saw each other and laughed most of the way up. I came off the second pitch going for a high right hand on friction feet and the bolt was right where it needed to be. Don't come here looking for an easy lead. This is a physically and mentally sustained route, that demands focus and good pro skills.

I pointed out to my partner at the top of the 2nd pitch that he no longer was trailing our rap line. He left it at the top of the first pitch. We were able to work something out with Eric that allowed us to finish the route. Thanks Eric.

If you happen to find my rope, I would like it back. If you decide that botty is botty than please don't use it as a lead line, it's only 43m and it's got a little too much history.

Eric is getting ready to work the roof above the 4th pitch.
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
Apr 14, 2008 - 01:42am PT
Hey Chris, good to see someone doing the route. Glad you enjoyed it. Your rope is still hanging off the middle of the second pitch as of Sunday evening. Also, I found a guide book at the base witch I beleive is yours. E-mail me and I will get it back to you. I'll be in the Valley the next few weekends if your around. We sent the crack/corner system that paralels Dream Easy up to the roof. Good climbing. Mostly hands and fingers. 5 pitches, 5.10a/b to the roof. Climbing seemed a little contrived and un-interesting after that, so we ended it there, at the roof. The chimney with the bolts(first 2 pitches) turned out to be quite good. Don't know who's route it is though. Probably 5.8/9ish? - Eric
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 14, 2008 - 02:43am PT
"when Harleys drown out hand drills..."


Sounds like a country western song.
drc

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 27, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
bump for news
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 27, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
I keep promising to go up and replace the Duck and Cover belay bolts.... (maybe I should replace all the bolts on that climb).
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Jul 8, 2011 - 02:13am PT
Thought this climb was a good addition to Reed's. It climbs both crack and face at a moderate grade over good quality rock. Never R rated and never quite reaching 5.9. This is also a good route to consider if you are looking for some elevation gain. A single set to 3.5" plus a couple extra in the 2.5-3.0" range worked well for my buddy Sean and I. Two ropes are needed for rappelling.
Looking down at the knobs that begin the climb.
Looking down at the knobs that begin the climb.
Credit: M. Volland
Looking up at the pitch 1 crux.  Solid exit moves out left will have y...
Looking up at the pitch 1 crux. Solid exit moves out left will have you feeling like a champ.
Credit: M. Volland
Entering the pitch two crux.  Traversing the face to gain the tree and...
Entering the pitch two crux. Traversing the face to gain the tree and the top of Duck and Cover.
Credit: M. Volland
Looking back from the top of Duck and Cover on pitch two.
Looking back from the top of Duck and Cover on pitch two.
Credit: M. Volland
All the belays are safe and casual.
All the belays are safe and casual.
Credit: M. Volland
Looking back while nearing the top of pitch 3.
Looking back while nearing the top of pitch 3.
Credit: M. Volland
Pitch 4
Pitch 4
Credit: M. Volland
Pitch 4 is really good and requires attention.
Pitch 4 is really good and requires attention.
Credit: M. Volland
Pitch 3 and pitch 4 both have bolted anchors.
Pitch 3 and pitch 4 both have bolted anchors.
Credit: M. Volland
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
Thanks for the pics, Volland.
le_bruce

climber
Oakland, CA
Jul 8, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
The more pics of this route I see, the better it looks. Thanks for sharing MV, always appreciate your stuff.
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Jul 8, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
Looks like fun!
Z
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Jul 8, 2011 - 09:40pm PT
Thanks for the bump and update.
I'd forgotten about this one. Will have a go during Facelift
(I have moral objections to climbing in The Valley during summer)
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