Dream Easy - new 4 pitch 5.8 at Reed's

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Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
> top rope cue on lunatic fringe

haha, don't laugh - I showed up one time and there was somebody aiding Lunatic Fringe, very slowly.... So we just did Reed's Direct instead.

Are you suggesting climbing Dream Easy or the big chimney as a way to toprope Lunatic Fringe? That would probably take several hours for people who are not ready to lead Lunatic Fringe.
del cross

climber
Bay Area
Mar 25, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
> Edge of Absurdity, 7 pitches (4 pitches are 5.8, 3 are 5.7). Eric sent me a topo for it. I'll scan it and post in a separate thread.

Thanks, Clint.
spyork

Social climber
A prison of my own creation
Mar 25, 2008 - 01:26pm PT
No, we want to lead the Chimney for grins, hehe!

I climbed Bongs Away Left, it was a fun lead.

I was told Bongs Away center is a nice 10a OW. Might be a bit mungy, I heard no one climbs it.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 25, 2008 - 01:30pm PT
here's a portrait of the Edge of Absurdity Arete, taken at Eric's birthday bash in the Valley last year:



it's the central one
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2008 - 02:40pm PT
Steve,

Bongs Away Center is very clean - it should have been easy to spot if you rapped from Bongs Away Left.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 25, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
Eric at the top of p1. You can see the ultra-thin lieback flake of Duck and Cover above and to the right of Eric. Also the yawning darkness of the "200 foot chimney" is on the right margin of the image:



Eric about half way through the crux dike traverse on p2, heading for the bush. This is now protected by a bolt, but on this trip we didn't have much in on the traverse.



Eric on the p3 lead off the belay of p2, this is the '5.7 2-3"' first part, with him moving over out of the crack



Eric on p4 just below the thin, steep crack going up to the head wall.



notice the hummock in the foreground and the vegetated environment. Be kind to the vegetables!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Mar 25, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
Very cool Clint! Thanks for the post. It is true there is new stuff everywhere.
From one of your pictures, I recognized a climb I did with Grant about twenty years ago. It is the crack system to the right of the Center Route of Bongs Away with a tree in it. The climbing was three short pitches and involved some tree climbing and an angry community of ants.

Ken
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
Ken,

> I recognized a climb I did with Grant about twenty years ago. It is the crack system to the right of the Center Route of Bongs Away with a tree in it. The climbing was three short pitches and involved some tree climbing and an angry community of ants.

Cool. Is it the one labelled "Bongs Away Right" in the latest Reid and Supertopo guides?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Mar 25, 2008 - 11:39pm PT
Thank you - another one for my pre/post FaceLift list.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Mar 26, 2008 - 05:30am PT
Yes Clint. We called it Bonged Out as it appeared to be the last line to the formation.

Ken
drc

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Mar 26, 2008 - 01:28pm PT
bump, Ed's got the right idea.
tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Apr 7, 2008 - 11:25am PT
Yo,

Just wanted to drop some kudos to the FA party. My friend Dan and I just did this climb on Saturday 04/05. Lots of fun!

I must admit that we weren't expecting quite so runout climbing! I wouldn't recommend this route to someone that isn't a very confident leader at the grade.

Leading P2, I was very happy for the 2 bolts (one on the crux 5.8 face before the tree, the other at the top of the 5.5 slab). I should mention that pulling past the 2nd bolt, the handhold I was using (tiny edge on the top of the bulge above the bolt) crumbled in my hands as I committed... somehow I was able to not fall and kept going to where I could stand up and get something in (purple camalot, I think). Phew! I warned my 2nd about the crumbly hold, and asked him if he wanted to know where it was. "I'll find it" was the answer... Sure enough, he popped off when the edge finished flaking off in his hand. heh heh heh.

My partner got P3 up to the hanging-ish belay, and seemed to enjoy it, especially the step left out of the first crack.

P4 is the money. It's the best pitch on the climb! It did take quite a while to find a spot for pro at the end of the traverse. Felt like it took about 20 minutes before I realized I was too low and had to move up higher. After I got something in and committed, the rest of the pitch was quite enjoyable!

There was practically a line on this climb. Shortly after we hit the ground after rapping through the gaping chimney (wow, that looks scary, even with the bolts!) another party started up (sans topo).. We gave them one of our two copies... They ended up only doing the first 3 pitches because they couldn't figure out the pro after the traverse on P4. Then we gave our other copy to another party on the way back to the car.

Great job guys!
-Tad
kev

climber
CA
Apr 7, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
Whats to figure out on the pro after the traverse on P4? After the traverse you're in the crack? Where they on route? Also is it still wet? The start of the crack on p4 was a wet a month ago...

kev

drc

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Apr 7, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
I thought you was still in the Valley, kev?
kev

climber
CA
Apr 7, 2008 - 02:02pm PT
Yo drc,

Came back late last night...Call me for the details...

kev
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Apr 7, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
Tad, thanks for the topo. It did help minimize the "Where the??" factor. We bailed after 3 mostly because we were freezing our arses... The last pitch does look like the best, and I want to enjoy it.

As for the route, fun stuff. But I do not recommended it for the budding 5.8 leader. I can't imagine doing that dike traverse with nothing but blocks below for "pro." Great job.

One note--when rapping, I would use the bolts at the top of Duck and Cover instead of the ones at the top of the [bolted] chimney. That chimney rap is a real rope-catcher.
tadhunt

Trad climber
Sunnyvale, CA
Apr 7, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
kev said: Whats to figure out on the pro after the traverse on P4? After the traverse you're in the crack? Where they on route? Also is it still wet? The start of the crack on p4 was a wet a month ago...

As for wetness -- nope, it was nice and dry!

Regarding the traverse, I must have come across too low. There wasn't really a crack where I ended up... There was a garden! It actually looked like there was a spot for a #5 or #6 Camalot (which was home to a lizard) Of course I didn't have either of them ... Up a little higher, there was a micro crack cleared out, which I didn't have gear for either... And then even higher, there was a small-but-not-micro nut placement that had been previously been cleaned out, which I cleaned a tiny bit more (not killing any plants, just removing a bit of dirt). Then there is a good placement (don't remember the size) under the block-o-moss that you work around to the right. After that, it's fun, smooth sailing to the belay!

k-man said: Tad, thanks for the topo. It did help minimize the "Where the??" factor. We bailed after 3 mostly because we were freezing our arses...

Sorry for the confusion, I must have misunderstood when we were talking about the last pitch. Yeah, it was a bit windy and chilly up there, I was happy to be heading down.

BTW, I think the white rock in the headwall right above the P4 anchor looks like a tombstone from the belay at the top of P3!

Ed's photo from above


"Where does it go" ... "See the tombstone" ... "yeah?"... "that's the top"!
Greg Barnes

climber
Apr 7, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
Ed or Clint, if you're up there doing replacement, that old 1/4" bolt with Leeper hanger at the start of Bongs Away right (actually "Bonged Out" as we now know!) is pretty nasty, and could use replacement.

Ed, you'd better hope that those are 1/4" buttonheads. Messing around with trying to pull 5/16" buttonheads is an invitation to rebolting epics. If they are 5/16" I can give you the beta on the best way to pull them. Actually it's pretty straight forward, just drive thin then thicker pins under the hanger to pop the bolt out a bit, then tap the bolt back in (not too snug), then repeat. After about 20-30 cycles, the bolt pops - you're basically using the 5/16" buttonhead as a drill bit to break away a bit of rock so it will pull out. As you can tell from this method, it doesn't work if the rock is weak at the surface - you end up digging/cratering the rock with the pins.

Sooner or later someone will have to start replacing the many 5/16" buttonheads on some of the routes on East Cottage in Tuolumne (like Disintegration/The Bulge, Orange Plasma, etc). Several of the key bolts are beginning to loosen up. Still, those are way, way better than any 1/4".

On another subject, does anyone know if the bolts on Pole Position in Church Bowl are still 1/4" buttonheads (with good stainless SMC hangers, lots of people don't notice they are 1/4" bolts)? Good winter project, or summer weekends when Harleys drown out hand drills...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 8, 2008 - 12:25am PT
whoa Greg, glad I didn't know your beta last summer when I rebolted Peter, Peter. The anchor bolts at the top of the route had been replaced at some time with 5/16" button heads, and they pulled easily with the tuning fork beat under the hanger... I don't recall any problem at all, they gave up the ghost pretty easily.

I half thought to use them, but something inside told me to go ahead and replace them... glad I did!

Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Castle Rock
Apr 8, 2008 - 01:49am PT
Yikes!
J2 seam, dips in 20 feet, could break loose...
Rodgers slide at Ferguson is still moving North, so is the whole valley...
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