Tooled at Castle Rock


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Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
I'm gonna set up a min-trax rig on Degeneration and Putrefaction in about an hour.

I gotta figure out this solo-sh#t. Woot! Be back

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
Had the place to myself, which is weird. But it's Tuesday.

The rig works alright but I wasn't happy with my anchor. It was solid, but I need to work on that.

I was just gonna rig a single line to trax on but ended up rapping in on 2 lines. Fixed one to a tree.

Works pretty well.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
Look out, ze Germans are back!

My old buddy is back from Germany for good this time, physics PhD in hand. Whatever that means...

I have one of my fav climbing partners back. Weird sh#t too. I was running dry.

Be out at Stevens Canyon tommorow morning at 8:30am. I may talk him into skipping that and heading for CRSP. We have some history there. F*#ker has 2 kids now too!!!

Good times ahead!!!!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
We're back in business! He's been over in Germany for about 6-8 years so we have much catching up to do.

He asked if we still go down to Jtree every thanksgiving for a week of climbing madness. He was usually the rope-gun.

That stopped a few years ago but appears to be ready to go again. He brings a spirit with him that has been much needed around here.


Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
Haven't climbed at Castle Rock proper in the park, usually too many people. May give it a go tomorrow morning. Does anyone know if 'A Farewell To Arms' has good top anchors on it other than the weird pole at the top?

I almost nailed this rig a few years ago on gear, but flailed at the awkward crux. The bottom pumps yer arms good (overhanging), you have to preserve a bit for the crux. Kind of pulling over a slabby roof with shitty hand/feet above the gear.

But the gear is like 4 feet below, so...just do it!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
Here's Summit Rock, where we had to park because CSRSP was blown totally out. FUll.
Summit Rock signs...
Summit Rock signs...
Credit: bluering

And ze Nature Nazi Boulders!!! Johnson!

We nailed those.

A german surveying the Nature Nazi Bouders
A german surveying the Nature Nazi Bouders
Credit: bluering

Radical day. The rangers now at CRSP are super cool, let me hang out for 15 minutes in the lot while I waited for my Homie. No Charge!

Very nice people, the rangers there, the ones today.

Lot was ultra-packed. We bailed, went to Summit and hiked in to the Nature Nazis.

2-3 other groups there. Good times. Rad day. The kids had a blast!!!

EDIT: that one Christian is looking at is my new fav. You can't use that big right arete, All FACE. Super hard 5.10d start, I'd say. Friction 5.10d feet.

Good stuff all arounf though. What's weird to watch is people with guidebooks in hands asking 'is this the right problem'.

Ya gotta have vision,man. When you see rocks,you assault them. Or Ascend them.

I can make a problem anywhere, and I don't even need rocks. BUt people are weird.
Have fun. Don't look at grades, just go and have fun. Climb what you can, and then go a bit further.

Good f*#king times, my friends.

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 17, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
Glad you're out climbing....soothes the soul.

Jul 17, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
oh look he almost got through a post without using the word f*#

an example of the usual

Have a good one brother! 50 is nothing. Look at that a-hole Donini!!!! hehe, that was a joke, kinda.

Doug, you're a solid individual. Goes without saying I'd put my life yer hands any day of the f*#king week, anyday.

Even when I drive you and Pennslynvy to the base of your route, and look after your dog with Happiegirls's help. I only bring that up it cause it was the only time I met ya.

Summit was a f*#king great dog too. Wild and happy!

Have a good one bro. You deserve it, you youngster (I'm only 48 in Oct). So if it makes you feel good, you make me feel young.

Anybody who loves their animals/pets the way you did is 100% solid in my book. Enough with the credentials.

Have a great birthday, dude. Tell Tom and Pennsylenvy I said hi as well. I miss those 2 guys.

Happy Birthday, Doug. God bless you in your travels.

EDIT: I just noticed that Aya posted this. WTF??? Where the f*#k has she been? Nice, I remember when she shattered her ankle and was sucking Maker Mark. (my inner lush always remembers the alcohol, good choice of Kentucky Straight's tooo!

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
Yeah, Jim. I know.

The problem is the DARN KIDS! My climbing outlook changed a lot. I'm a guide now for my family. Not the rogue I used to be.

That does not mean I don't still get after it. I just do it at a different angle now.

And it is funner than I've ever done it. Not pushing grades, just going for fun for everyone.

Pushing grades is still cool though. The boulder prollems were abundant today.


Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 04:34pm PT
Man, CRSP is just getting un-fun nowadays. There a re tons of people everywhere! All times of day!

I got up there at 8:30 this morning and the lots were shy about 5 cars short of being full already.

Don't get me started on the REI guides. They already had ropes on 2 popular routes (Indian Rock 5.8 and 5.10a faces) as they waited for clients in the lot. Can I drop those ropes if I want to climb the route and nobody is around? Ethics?

The Outdoor Adventure guides are a bit cooler, but they trail a horde with them and always suck up certain routes for a while.

I don't mind seeing people get out, but I'd like to get out too! I kinda feel like I should get a special spot, but that would be selfish and elitist.

With Adven Out and REI guides in the area we knew Indian and Waterfall Routes would be clustershtoops. We went Indian side of the Road and confirmed that the guides had consumed the whole frontal face of Indian.

We bailed to Lyme Disease Rock. (Side-note, one of my old partners from 6 years ago confirms he's got Lyme, prolly for years, he's being treated).

My buddy's wife wanted 5.9's and 5.10's, hence the Waterfall area, but alas we had to settle on LD Rock. One 5.7, and a handful of stupendous 5.10's. Multiples around the 5.10b range. Perfect!

Windy, early start was hard to get motivated. But after cranking the 5.7 roof moves I was warmed up. I was totally unmotivated after seeing what I saw though. I was mind-set on a certain area and just was mind-f*#ked the rest of the day. WE also are bidding on houses right in a wild market, so I was just happy to be out.

Buddy's wife nailed the 5.7 roof problem and another one I flailed on, a 5.10a. Her hubby has an ape-index off the charts and flashed a 5.10d on sight (on a TR, but still...).

The kicker is we had my kid and their 2 kids the whole time. And it was a great day. I'm not sure if I'm hopeful or saddened by the fact that just as we were bailing a three-some of young dudes approached scouting routes.

Never happens at my hidden crag. Almost never. We pulled our ropes and gave them some tips on the grades (they had no book), and funky anchors. Nice guys. And good times as usual.

EDIT: Lyme Disease Rock is an easy hike from Indian Rock and a good option when Indian is overloaded with ropes. Out of the parking lot head right on the trail away from Indian Rock. The are 3 options. Go left to Indian, go straight to bouldering and skirt Indian, or go right on the Skyline Trail (towards Lyme Disease Rock). You'll see LD ROCK as you approach it on the left, down-trail. It's the first obvious climbing rock you'll come to. Walk up to the top from the trail. You'll see the anchors out on top of the extended ledge. There are at least 4 sets of anchors. And almost every climb is lead-able on bolts. No pro required.

Some of the anchors need work. I know one of the rangers of that side of the road (Mid-Peninsula Open Space?), I think his name is Violllet or something. Really cool guy who'd be happy to know I don't haul beer out there anymore! He used to bust me for that.

I'll ask him if we can do some anchor work out there with drills. Just re-set the old anchors. The lead-bolts are pretty solid.
barry ohm

Trad climber
escondido, ca
Jul 31, 2016 - 09:00pm PT
I wa at Lyme disease rock weneseday afternoon,Left a small Cairn to Honor Coz.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
Good on ya, Barry! I like that place. A lot of great climbs in a nice discreet area.

It's one of Skyline's little gems. I see a lot more hikers and dirt-bike riders now though. Used to see nobody out there.

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
Another great day! Indian Rock is still awesome if you get there at 8:30am.

Geez, there are are a lot of people there now. Get there early, before 9am. Climbed next to some young-uns. Must have been high-school kids. Fun stuff watching them.
Bruce Morris

Trad climber
Belmont, California
Aug 22, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
Geez, there are are a lot of people there now.

Go there at mid-week in October. That's the best time at Castle anyway. After work while PDT is still in effect makes real sense too. The weekends are a no-no. I don't think it's entirely my fault though; there have to be 4 or 5 guidebooks now that describe the climbing and bouldering at CRSP.

When I move to Oakhurst or Ahwahnee, I bet I'll be able to finally avoid the Bay Area crowds, but by then I'll be too aged to walk anywhere . . .

Social climber
your mom's house
Aug 22, 2016 - 05:41pm PT
Went this weekend. I couldn't believe how many people were there. They were all nice though as I accosted them with small talk! Got in some good climbing and good hanging (a little bit of that on the rope)

Stopped and chatted with the rangers at the gate and they were cool as hell. Felt a lot friendlier than it did when I left the Bay Area 6 years ago.

Were you there this weekend Bluey? Shitty I missed you.


Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
Seth? That you?

Yeah I was at Indian Rock yesterday, backside with my German buddy and his kids. We were there at 9am, I bailed around noon. Another German buddy showed up too.

My buddy nailed Krokus on lead. Nasty fall if you miss the 2nd clip! He pro'd it with a cam.

Trad climber
Bay Area
Aug 25, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
Castle Rock parking is only getting worse now that Sempervirens Fund are promoting the park.
Weekends both sides of Skyline are full from the summit down to Summit Rock parking.
There is limited parking alongside Skyline well beyond the entrance both directions.
Do not park where it says no parking. You WILL be ticketed, weekend or weekdays.

People have been killed by autos when walking along the roadside very near the main entrance. A young neighbor of mine (a very sober young woman) was the driver in a fatal daytime accident. I strongly suggest walking the trail instead.

There's an excellent trail on the East side of Skyline from Saratoga Gap (hwy 9 junction) south to approximately milepost 9.5. The trail takes you past Lyme Disease Rock if coming from the south. There are also several great bouldering rocks off in the woods along the way.

I strongly suggest taking the trail from wherever you park, most especially from Summit Rock parking.
The trail is longer, beautiful and in a couple of places you can walk up to knolls with grand views.
The road is shorter, but heavily trafficked and dangerous.
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