Tooled at Castle Rock

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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
I'm gonna set up a min-trax rig on Degeneration and Putrefaction in about an hour.

I gotta figure out this solo-sh#t. Woot! Be back
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
Had the place to myself, which is weird. But it's Tuesday.

The rig works alright but I wasn't happy with my anchor. It was solid, but I need to work on that.

I was just gonna rig a single line to trax on but ended up rapping in on 2 lines. Fixed one to a tree.

Works pretty well.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
Look out, ze Germans are back!

My old buddy is back from Germany for good this time, physics PhD in hand. Whatever that means...

I have one of my fav climbing partners back. Weird sh#t too. I was running dry.

Be out at Stevens Canyon tommorow morning at 8:30am. I may talk him into skipping that and heading for CRSP. We have some history there. F*#ker has 2 kids now too!!!

Good times ahead!!!!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
We're back in business! He's been over in Germany for about 6-8 years so we have much catching up to do.

He asked if we still go down to Jtree every thanksgiving for a week of climbing madness. He was usually the rope-gun.

That stopped a few years ago but appears to be ready to go again. He brings a spirit with him that has been much needed around here.

Serendipity.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
Haven't climbed at Castle Rock proper in the park, usually too many people. May give it a go tomorrow morning. Does anyone know if 'A Farewell To Arms' has good top anchors on it other than the weird pole at the top?

I almost nailed this rig a few years ago on gear, but flailed at the awkward crux. The bottom pumps yer arms good (overhanging), you have to preserve a bit for the crux. Kind of pulling over a slabby roof with shitty hand/feet above the gear.

But the gear is like 4 feet below, so...just do it!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
Here's Summit Rock, where we had to park because CSRSP was blown totally out. FUll.
Summit Rock signs...
Summit Rock signs...
Credit: bluering

And ze Nature Nazi Boulders!!! Johnson!

We nailed those.

A german surveying the Nature Nazi Bouders
A german surveying the Nature Nazi Bouders
Credit: bluering


Radical day. The rangers now at CRSP are super cool, let me hang out for 15 minutes in the lot while I waited for my Homie. No Charge!

Very nice people, the rangers there, the ones today.

Lot was ultra-packed. We bailed, went to Summit and hiked in to the Nature Nazis.

2-3 other groups there. Good times. Rad day. The kids had a blast!!!

EDIT: that one Christian is looking at is my new fav. You can't use that big right arete, All FACE. Super hard 5.10d start, I'd say. Friction 5.10d feet.

Good stuff all arounf though. What's weird to watch is people with guidebooks in hands asking 'is this the right problem'.

Ya gotta have vision,man. When you see rocks,you assault them. Or Ascend them.

I can make a problem anywhere, and I don't even need rocks. BUt people are weird.
Have fun. Don't look at grades, just go and have fun. Climb what you can, and then go a bit further.

Good f*#king times, my friends.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 17, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
Glad you're out climbing....soothes the soul.
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Jul 17, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
oh look he almost got through a post without using the word f*#

an example of the usual

Have a good one brother! 50 is nothing. Look at that a-hole Donini!!!! hehe, that was a joke, kinda.

Doug, you're a solid individual. Goes without saying I'd put my life yer hands any day of the f*#king week, anyday.

Even when I drive you and Pennslynvy to the base of your route, and look after your dog with Happiegirls's help. I only bring that up it cause it was the only time I met ya.

Summit was a f*#king great dog too. Wild and happy!

Have a good one bro. You deserve it, you youngster (I'm only 48 in Oct). So if it makes you feel good, you make me feel young.

Anybody who loves their animals/pets the way you did is 100% solid in my book. Enough with the credentials.

Have a great birthday, dude. Tell Tom and Pennsylenvy I said hi as well. I miss those 2 guys.

Happy Birthday, Doug. God bless you in your travels.


EDIT: I just noticed that Aya posted this. WTF??? Where the f*#k has she been? Nice, I remember when she shattered her ankle and was sucking Maker Mark. (my inner lush always remembers the alcohol, good choice of Kentucky Straight's tooo!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
Yeah, Jim. I know.

The problem is the DARN KIDS! My climbing outlook changed a lot. I'm a guide now for my family. Not the rogue I used to be.

That does not mean I don't still get after it. I just do it at a different angle now.

And it is funner than I've ever done it. Not pushing grades, just going for fun for everyone.

Pushing grades is still cool though. The boulder prollems were abundant today.

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