Tooled at Castle Rock

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 321 - 340 of total 353 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 06:26pm PT
Yeah, Cosmic, me too. I could camp on ledges with you and have a blast.

Does that sound gay-ish?

F*#k, I think I'm gonna have to figure out this rope-solo thing. All my partners have bailed. I must be a dick or something.

So be it.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 1, 2016 - 06:33pm PT
Does that sound gay-ish?


Awwww SWEETIE.
I didn't know you cared so much.

;-)

Credit: Cosmiccragsman
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
I'll use my mini-trax for ya, Dwain! So smooth in the backyard, and bites the rope hard when tensioned!

I think me and John will roll out early and set up on something simple, maybe Henry and Otis so I can place gear and get some jams. I could prolly walk away from decking out if 'all else fails'. Maybe hit Last Tempatation after that.

Monkey Brains or something is out right, on the face past 'Charlie's Angel'. Gnarly 10b or something that is very real. I wanna stick that f*#ker. Been a thorn for a while.

I usually cruise 10b faces with minor degrees of trepedation. This one is weird for some reason.

It must be done, I have a new project!!!

Everyone bails on this rig to right, into an o/W chimney thing. Off-route!!!!

I wanna stick this thing. It's only f*#king 5.10b....or something like that.

What's super-awesome is that I can mini-trax this thing. Good fixed lead bolts and top anchors. Base has solid anchors.

I'll attach pics to this project.

EDIT: I may be thinking of "I Go I Know Not Whither". Good stuff. I know the route when I see it.

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 1, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
I'll use my mini-trax for ya, Dwain! So smooth in the backyard, and bites the rope hard when tensioned!



You know me well, Steve.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
I'll have John get some pics, Dwain. Stacy is a little sketched, but we'll be fine.

I may downgrade to Stevens Canyon Boulder for a trial run. It's all good though.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 2, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
A lot of people get tooled at Castle Rock...."Athlete's Feat" is pretty stiff for 11a and By Gully kicks a lot of ass for it's grade.You're especially vulnerable if you think the soft ratings on the sport climbs in Boulder Canyon are representative. After you get tooled have a beer at the Hungry Toad, a really neat British style pub in Boulder.
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Jul 2, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
Umph slot is piss easy especially since it ain't even on "Castle Rock" .
Mike.

climber
Jul 2, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
Crikey, the narrative has taken a digger!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 2, 2016 - 08:43pm PT
Must be getting old Steve, I mean't By Gully.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 2, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
Lots of Castle Rocks out there...

... Cali Colo WA what ever...
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 10:21pm PT
Yeah, I'm just sitting here listening to it all. It's all good.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 2, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
Happy 4th Bluey!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 08:46am PT
Back at ya, Todd!

never made it CR this weekend, yet. Fishing is getting in the way.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 3, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
If you do go up to CR, at least Ranger J. Rule won't be around to pull a gun on you for after hours parking.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 3, 2016 - 12:28pm PT
Tooled at Castle Rock


Why would you dry tool at CR, Blue?
Getting tired of free climbing,or was there, Ice????
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
I'm gonna set up a min-trax rig on Degeneration and Putrefaction in about an hour.

I gotta figure out this solo-sh#t. Woot! Be back
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
Had the place to myself, which is weird. But it's Tuesday.

The rig works alright but I wasn't happy with my anchor. It was solid, but I need to work on that.

I was just gonna rig a single line to trax on but ended up rapping in on 2 lines. Fixed one to a tree.

Works pretty well.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
Look out, ze Germans are back!

My old buddy is back from Germany for good this time, physics PhD in hand. Whatever that means...

I have one of my fav climbing partners back. Weird sh#t too. I was running dry.

Be out at Stevens Canyon tommorow morning at 8:30am. I may talk him into skipping that and heading for CRSP. We have some history there. F*#ker has 2 kids now too!!!

Good times ahead!!!!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
We're back in business! He's been over in Germany for about 6-8 years so we have much catching up to do.

He asked if we still go down to Jtree every thanksgiving for a week of climbing madness. He was usually the rope-gun.

That stopped a few years ago but appears to be ready to go again. He brings a spirit with him that has been much needed around here.

Serendipity.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
Haven't climbed at Castle Rock proper in the park, usually too many people. May give it a go tomorrow morning. Does anyone know if 'A Farewell To Arms' has good top anchors on it other than the weird pole at the top?

I almost nailed this rig a few years ago on gear, but flailed at the awkward crux. The bottom pumps yer arms good (overhanging), you have to preserve a bit for the crux. Kind of pulling over a slabby roof with shitty hand/feet above the gear.

But the gear is like 4 feet below, so...just do it!
Messages 321 - 340 of total 353 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews