Tooled at Castle Rock

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Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Oct 11, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
FYI: State Parks Ranger Jason Rule has been transferred out of Castle Rock State Park:

"Goodbye Jason"

"Jason Rule, the longtime Park Ranger at Castle Rock and Portola Redwoods State Parks is moving on. Jason has been a champion of the parks since he started in 2004. During his term, he has seen many changes in the parks and the State Park system including the sever budget cuts that almost closed his two parks. Jason was instrumental in working with the Portola and Castle Rock Foundation to start the now-robust program of volunteers who augment the rangers with trained “boots-on-the- ground” hikers in both parks. We wish Jason the best as in his new position with the San Luis Obisbo CA Park district. He will be missed.
To learn more about Jason, click here to read PCRF Director Barbara Harriman’s interview with Jason."

Since the click doesn't seem to work, here's a transcription of the pdf orginal:

"The Portola and Castle Rock Foundation wants to thank Jason Rule for his 11 years of service in the
Santa Cruz District of the CA State Parks Department as he ventures off to a new experience in the San
Luis Obispo District of California Parks!
When asked about his transfer, Jason said it comes with both excitement and sadness. "There's a
heaviness leaving this area - the community has been great to be a part of. Leaving friends and
colleagues that I love and respect is difficult. Yet, I'm looking forward to moving on and working with a
new crew. I even bought a house, which I could not afford to do in the Bay area. II
Jason applied to become a park ranger back in 2001. In November 2003 he received his invitation to a 27
week academy resulting in a Park Ranger position in Santa Cruz District of the California State Parks and
Recreation Department. Over the years Jason has since patrolled Castle Rock, Portola Redwoods, and
Big Basin.
I asked Jason what education and training is required to become a ranger. He said that the requirement
is 60 college units, but that being said better than 80% of the rangers have college degrees. Jason was a
biological science graduate.
So what does Jason love most, and find most challenging, about his job? He said the two are the same.
"The diversity of the job is the best part and most challenging part of my job." When on duty, Jason
has the responsibility of patrolling the parks, collecting and depositing fees, answering the phones, and
interacting with the public to give them direction and answer their questions. Quite often Jason is called
to assist when there's an accident on Route 9 or 35. "Every day is unique. The hours can be grueling,
sometimes working 15 to 24 hours when the need arose." When a storm brought down power lines and
trees all over Skyline and Route 9, Jason had the responsibility to inform residences and help them
navigate the area where the roads were open. Jason said the peanut butter and jelly sandwich provided
that day by our Cal Fire team was one of the best sandwiches he's ever tasted.
When asked about the greatest changes he has seen in the park system, Jason replied "Budgetary cuts
from the State level have led to difficult outcomes in the field. I even received a couple of IOUs from the
State. Getting positions filled once available became difficult. The Parks Department doesn't have
budget minimums like schools and prisons and it's difficult to communicate how much is needed to run
a park. During the recession all the State Departments were fighting for a piece of the budget. That's
when they were slating both Portola and Castle Rock State Parks to be shut down. We're still dealing
with these mandatory reductions set by the State. II
One of the bigger operations Jason has been involved with was working on the coast on the 4th of July.
Pre-2008 the rangers would be on the sidelines ready to respond to emergencies. Since then they have
taken a substantially greater role in providing a safe environment. It has gone from chaos and danger to
family friendly and a good time for all
Off duty, one of Jason's favorite events is to visit his sister's 2nd grade classrooms at Orchard Elementary
in Modesto. Jason knows that many of these children have never had the opportunity to go camping.
Jason gives an hour talk using a slide projector (which fascinates the children). He embellishes his talk
with animal skins and skulls. The kids are thrilled to see Jason in his uniform and hear his stories. He is
touching their hearts and imaginations."

bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2015 - 10:53am PT
He was an as#@&%e, J. Rule. And I always give LEO and Rangers nothing but respect. They are the LAW in the park, you'd be a f*#king idiot to not take them seriously.

Some people just abuse their authority, they forget what they're there for.

Platypus and Shady Rock were outstanding as usual yesterday. I'm worn down after doing Plat-a-pussy and the mantle on Slot Nose. I need to get back after it, been taking it lite lately...

My son John got some awesome cave bouldering in though with the guidance of PhotoEz. Ez is bailing to New Hampshire to literally start a new life and family. That kicks a$$$$$$$

I'll miss him. Good climbing partner. (See my Wamello Dome TR).
reach

Trad climber
Brisbane, CA
Oct 12, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
Some people just abuse their authority, they forget what they're there for.

One weekend morning I was driving up HWY 9 to CR. It was early as we were trying to beat the crowds. I was doing the speed limit or a little over; essentially normal driving. Then a ranger truck fast approaches from behind, tailgates me for a number of the sharp turns, then passes me going up hill in a no passing zone. He must have gotten stuck behind another "slow vehicle" on the way to the parking lot because when I parked he was just getting out of his truck with his coffee cup in hand.

Seeing that he was not really hurrying for anything important, I said "Good thing you passed me." in a sarcastic, passive aggressive, you're a dick kinda way. He made eye contact and did not saying anything. Reading these comments makes me glad I did not push my luck any further.

My default is to completely respect these guys, for sure. Don't get me wrong.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
I need a freakin' belay!!! Who wants to climb this weekend?

I can go anytime really, but the mornings are better for parking and getting on route before the freakin' guides show up!

Let's do it! Don't make me go out and try to figure out how to solo-climb and figure out all the rigging.

C'mon!!!
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 1, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
Sure wish my back was better, and I didn't have numb toes, and my Dad wasn't in Hospice,
because I'd sure like to join you as I still want to spend a couple days climbing with you.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 06:26pm PT
Yeah, Cosmic, me too. I could camp on ledges with you and have a blast.

Does that sound gay-ish?

F*#k, I think I'm gonna have to figure out this rope-solo thing. All my partners have bailed. I must be a dick or something.

So be it.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 1, 2016 - 06:33pm PT
Does that sound gay-ish?


Awwww SWEETIE.
I didn't know you cared so much.

;-)

Credit: Cosmiccragsman
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
I'll use my mini-trax for ya, Dwain! So smooth in the backyard, and bites the rope hard when tensioned!

I think me and John will roll out early and set up on something simple, maybe Henry and Otis so I can place gear and get some jams. I could prolly walk away from decking out if 'all else fails'. Maybe hit Last Tempatation after that.

Monkey Brains or something is out right, on the face past 'Charlie's Angel'. Gnarly 10b or something that is very real. I wanna stick that f*#ker. Been a thorn for a while.

I usually cruise 10b faces with minor degrees of trepedation. This one is weird for some reason.

It must be done, I have a new project!!!

Everyone bails on this rig to right, into an o/W chimney thing. Off-route!!!!

I wanna stick this thing. It's only f*#king 5.10b....or something like that.

What's super-awesome is that I can mini-trax this thing. Good fixed lead bolts and top anchors. Base has solid anchors.

I'll attach pics to this project.

EDIT: I may be thinking of "I Go I Know Not Whither". Good stuff. I know the route when I see it.

Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 1, 2016 - 09:40pm PT
I'll use my mini-trax for ya, Dwain! So smooth in the backyard, and bites the rope hard when tensioned!



You know me well, Steve.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
I'll have John get some pics, Dwain. Stacy is a little sketched, but we'll be fine.

I may downgrade to Stevens Canyon Boulder for a trial run. It's all good though.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 2, 2016 - 04:22pm PT
A lot of people get tooled at Castle Rock...."Athlete's Feat" is pretty stiff for 11a and By Gully kicks a lot of ass for it's grade.You're especially vulnerable if you think the soft ratings on the sport climbs in Boulder Canyon are representative. After you get tooled have a beer at the Hungry Toad, a really neat British style pub in Boulder.
steve s

Trad climber
eldo
Jul 2, 2016 - 06:01pm PT
Umph slot is piss easy especially since it ain't even on "Castle Rock" .
Mike.

climber
Jul 2, 2016 - 06:07pm PT
Crikey, the narrative has taken a digger!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 2, 2016 - 08:43pm PT
Must be getting old Steve, I mean't By Gully.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 2, 2016 - 10:18pm PT
Lots of Castle Rocks out there...

... Cali Colo WA what ever...
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 10:21pm PT
Yeah, I'm just sitting here listening to it all. It's all good.
Todd Eastman

climber
Bellingham, WA
Jul 2, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
Happy 4th Bluey!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 08:46am PT
Back at ya, Todd!

never made it CR this weekend, yet. Fishing is getting in the way.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 3, 2016 - 12:25pm PT
If you do go up to CR, at least Ranger J. Rule won't be around to pull a gun on you for after hours parking.
Cosmiccragsman

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 3, 2016 - 12:28pm PT
Tooled at Castle Rock


Why would you dry tool at CR, Blue?
Getting tired of free climbing,or was there, Ice????
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