Discussion Topic |
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 11, 2008 - 12:43pm PT
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So I arrive at Castle Rock State Park on Saturday and I'm waiting for my buddy to show up. I'm cranking some Rolling Stones in my truck and organizing all my gear and drinking a beer. The parking lots are FULL. Some idiot even parked in between two trees that cuts off another 5-7 parking spaces.
I see a ranger vehicle coming and pray it's not the supertool Miles Standish (real name). Every time this guy sees me he fu*ks with me. He HATES climbers, especially dirtbags. Sure enough he parks and gets out and, yep, it's the world class a$$hole known as Miles Standish. I hide my beer as he approaches and pretend to be busy in the back of my truck. He's studying everyone's license plates and is headed my way.
He passes me (after checking my plate) and I say, "Howdy". He returns the greeting. I see a couple of climbers I recognize (Charlie and some other dude) and I go over (Stones still crankin') and say hi. They also relay stories of getting tooled by Miles. I go back to my truck and he's writing somebody a ticket. He comes back by me and says, "You know I can issue a citation for playing music that's audible at 50 feet away?". I say no, let me turn down the music. I then ask if they've ever considered putting a sign in between the trees saying, don't park here, you're blocking a section of the parking lot. He says, "I can write everybody here a ticket for parking perpindicular to the road, not parallel." I'm like, WTF? I didn't know that was a law either.
This guy just cruises around finding ways to f%ck with people. He gives law enforcement types a bad name.
A$$hole!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
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Khanom, actually my wife recommended that. I don't want the guy to lose his job or anything, I just wish he'd lighten up a little bit.
I guess it could have been worse, though, he could've wrote me up instead issueing a dickish warning. It does seem as though he has a pretty bad reputation. I talked with other rangers about reopening the Valley Of Stone nad they say to ask the head ranger (Miles Standish) and they kinda looked at each other and said, "good luck with that", as if to say do really want to initiate conversation with that prick?
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 11, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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so you WERE breaking the law but you weren't tooled? why so angry?
once had my car locked in the goat rock parking cause we watched the sunset and my partner f*#ked his ankle walking out. -no parking after sunset- so the rig is locked in. I walk to the nearest phone (castle rock parking) call the number on the kiosk and a ranger shows up, all smiles, gives me ride back to goat, unlocks the gate, verifies that my buddy's ankle is f*#ked up then proceeds to run plates and write me up for parking after sunset. When questioned, the officer, still all smiles, explained that he thought a judge might find my explanation reasonable and I should try to pitch it in court, but I was nonetheless, breaking the law and his job was to cite me not judge me.
And then, as he gives me back my ID he says "You know, you're lucky I just locked the gate. I could have had you towed."
Wonder if that was Miles Standish.
Edit-Nope, wasn't him. Doesn't every area have a resident supertool? (memories of Flat top) seems like it just goes with the territory, like PO, and mosquitos.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Feb 11, 2008 - 01:18pm PT
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Hi Khanom-
Off topic, but I just met someone with your same name. Was told that it meant "chrome" (as in the metallic color), and was also the term for the first day of spring.
nice name!
On topic: I had all my climbing and camping gear stolen at Castle Rock once, way back in the 80's. It was devastating, took me years and years to recover (and I spent my first winter in Yosemite sleeping in an ice puddle in a cheap tent due to my expedition tent having been stolen). No "tools" there back then. So it's good and bad, though this guy sounds like he needs a life.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 11, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
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Hey Riley
hope you're well.
Wish I would have had you there to set him straight. For my part though, I've had pretty good results adhering to the policy of keeping a low profile and, if I have to think about opening my mouth, I'd best keep it shut. I also try to practice what I'm always preaching to my students;
"If you find yourself in a hole, stop digging."
cheers,
wade
ps: got spring plans for the big f*#ker? EC08
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Feb 11, 2008 - 01:44pm PT
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I avoid Castle Rock SP on weekends like the plague. Weekday afternoons are much less crowded if you can swing it.
Of course I can't actually climb for 6 more months, so tell me how was it :)
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 11, 2008 - 02:14pm PT
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Miles is just a strict constructionist who enforces the letter of the law. He's also the Law on the Skyline after dark.
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Off-Width Loving Crack Whore
Trad climber
SLO
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Feb 11, 2008 - 02:15pm PT
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3 weeks ago I saw Mr. Standish hand out a ticket to a guy for having window tint that was to dark. This was after the poor guy spent 45 minutes looking for a Ranger to pay the parking fee (the box was out of envelopes).
Since I was waiting for an envelope too I walked over from my truck 8 feet away, asked for an envelope and proceeded to fill it out/pay. So I walk back to my truck to read my license plate and he walks up next to me sees that there isn't a stub on my dash and starts writing me a ticket. I'm thinking "is this really happening?". I let him know that I just got here and that there weren't any envelopes so I was waiting for him to bring some more because I'm also paying for camping and parking for my friends truck. He then gave me the look of death and mumbles something about paying first before parking. So I reiterate that there weren't any envelopes and I was waiting for him to show up, but I'm paying right now... "so ummm thanks." More look of death and mumbling about "Kids throwing away the envelopes."
For the next two days every time I saw him he would ask me if I had paid the parking/camping fee, twice on Saturday, and three times on Sunday ( bad memory perhaps???, harassment perhaps???) At one point while packing up to head off to another area he walked up to us and asked if we "Had enough?" and were "Leaving yet?"
Of course this was nicer then last time when another Ranger wanted to impound the motorcycle I had in the back of my buddies truck because it was registered non-op and accrding to him "He couldn't allow it to be seen on the roadway." I have since investigated this and found that super dick robo Ranger's interpretation of the law was way off. It's perfectly legal to have a non-op vehicle on a trailer or on the back of a truck.
I think a letter writing campaign is in order.
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kev
climber
CA
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Feb 11, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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Bluering,
Hahaha,
We got pseudo tooled in the pinns sat pm. We were leaving to head out of the west side to camp and got stopped for not having a license plate light. Yes I know it's illegal but I suspect it was because he had just seen us and 4 or 5 other dirtbags in the parking lot. HOWEVER, although the stop seemed BS, he ran our info told and let us go. I've had a few similar incidents with rangers over the years and MOST (but not all-let us not forger "officer poopy pants" aka "crispy cream" in TM) have been these check you out run your license/plates and let you go. I'll watch out for this dude at CRSP though.
kev
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Feb 11, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
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You guys should definitely report this idiot. He reminds me of a notorious ranger
in Marin who takes glee in busting Mt Bike scofflaws for riding on trails. The kook
actually pulled a gun on a friend of mine for riding a fuçking bike without any
provocation whatsoever. We need to hold the higher-ups accountable for such bullshít.
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 11, 2008 - 02:35pm PT
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Hahahaha LOL Riley
I so wish you would have been around on Valley Sar back in the day when Duecy, Russ, etc etc were around.
You would have fit right in .....
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Feb 11, 2008 - 03:03pm PT
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While the local newspaper was doing a ride-along, he cuffed and placed someone in the back of his patrol car, for RIDING A BIKE, and left him unattended while responding to antoher call. His excuse was that the person making the othe rall may have been "in cahoots" and just trying to create a diversion.
http://www.community-newspapers.com/archives/lgwt/08.23.00/cover-0034.html
Standish spotted a young man named Page with a prohibited item on the trail: a bicycle. Before he could issue a citation, another young man ran onto the scene, shouting breathlessly about "some dude strokin' in the bushes," apparently right off the trail.
At that moment, Standish later reflected, his first thought was that John the shouting man was in cahoots with Page and was only raising a commotion to enable Page to escape without a citation.
Standish said afterward that he interpreted "strokin' " to mean someone was having a stroke or possibly a seizure. In order to respond to this medical emergency but not lose the now-angry Page, Standish handcuffed the young man, placed him in the truck and ran down the trail with John. Along with extensive training in natural resource management, field work, first aid and park administration, Standish is also a fully licensed peace officer and as such carries a law enforcer's trappings, including gun, handcuffs and club.
Down the trail, Standish discovered a situation that was actually a 314: the law enforcement code for indecent exposure. Although only John had seen Patrick allegedly fondling himself, Patrick did make some incriminating and embarrassed remarks to Standish--not enough grounds for a citation, but enough for Standish to take down Patrick's name, address and other personal data as a matter of course.
After sending Patrick on his way, Standish returned to Page, completed the citation process and cut him loose from the handcuffs with the admonition: "In the future, you have to make certain you know which trails you can take a bike on and which ones you can't."
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Feb 11, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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That sums up nicely what a kook this wanna-be cop is...
He cuffs and stuffs and cites the Mt biker, and lets the BushWacker™ off with a warning.(!)
Typical M.O. of a wanna-be cop...
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Tahoe climber
Trad climber
a dark-green forester out west
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Feb 11, 2008 - 05:34pm PT
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Got a stern talking to from one of the PO's there, too.
But he didn't give us a ticket, though we were parked there - and in the park (though ignorant of the rule not to be).
He was mean, but in the end didn't cite us since we kept our mouths shut and said yes, sir a lot.
TC
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Feb 11, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
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If you have any complaints whatsoever, write a letter! It doesn't matter whether you want this guy to keep his job or not--that's for his supervisors to decide. What matters is that his bosses have been officially informed about his conduct. Without a paper trail, this guy is free to do his job however he pleases. Public input is vital to any sort of action.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Feb 11, 2008 - 06:39pm PT
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Amen, Billygoat!
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Feb 11, 2008 - 06:41pm PT
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He was smart enough knott
to risk getting shot
by a mentally unstable
wanna-be cop...
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dirtbag
climber
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Feb 11, 2008 - 06:52pm PT
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He cuffed a mountain biker?
That's outrageous!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 11, 2008 - 06:54pm PT
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A few letters or e-mails to the person's superior may help, especially if phrased constructively and politely.
I'm not familiar with Castle Rock. (Except the one in Washington.) Do local climbers there help with looking after the place, e.g. an Adopt-a-Crag or such?
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Feb 11, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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Publicly suggesting shooting cops, running away from cops, stealing their cars, etc. won't win you any points with his bosses. They only undermine the letter-writing campaign.
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tdk
climber
puhoynix
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Feb 11, 2008 - 07:55pm PT
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A couple years back I pulled off Skyline briefly to let some people out of the car so as to shorten their walk in to Goat Rock, the car is still running, people clearly getting out and unloading gear, Miles roars up and threatens to ticket me for illegal parking. Another time he inspected my truck, saying "good thing you have a plate on the front or I'd have to ticket you". Wrote a letter, but since he's still at it, apparently it didn't do much good.
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
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Feb 11, 2008 - 08:09pm PT
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dirtbag asks:
He cuffed a mountain biker?
That's outrageous!
Knott nearly as outrageous as pointing a gun at someone's face for the knott-so heinous crime
of riding on a hiking trail in Marin - someone who was clearly unarmed and posed no threat.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Feb 11, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
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bluering - I have to say that yes, that man is THE TOOL. But I have to say a couple of things about your story I don't agree with, namely "I'm cranking some Rolling Stones in my truck and organizing all my gear and drinking a beer."
- This just seems to be asking to be Tooled.
Sorry, but you are only attracting attention with the music at volume. And just so you can hear your Stones,... it's pretty bad eticit. And while drinking a beer? Yeah, you were asking for it.
When in the Castle Rock area, I always assume that Climbers are hated, even though we bring in revenue equal to or more than the tourons. So I act accordingly. This does not mean I walk around constantly looking over my shoulder while lighting up one smoke or another, but I don't start the day by attracting attention to myself. I grab my gear and hustle to the crag. I've never had this problem, though now that I've said it, it just might happen next time I'm there.
- I go on:
"The parking lots are FULL. Some idiot even parked in between two trees that cuts off another 5-7 parking spaces."
- I don't have a remedy for this. I have parked in that spot before and luckily there was plenty of room elsewhere for people to park, so I didn't think anything of it. But, yes, noobs have to learn that parking space is limited and people should make as much room for others as possible.
"He passes me (after checking my plate) and I say, "Howdy". He returns the greeting. I see a couple of climbers I recognize (Charlie and some other dude) and I go over (Stones still crankin') and say hi. They also relay stories of getting tooled by Miles. I go back to my truck and he's writing somebody a ticket. He comes back by me and says, "You know I can issue a citation for playing music that's audible at 50 feet away?"."
- This, I have a problem with! I understand I just told you to lower the volume above, but when Tool starts making up new law out of nowhere, I have a problem with the tool.
At this point, I would have asked to see the book he got that law out of? If it was local law, I might have fought it, but then again , you did the right thing in turning down the music. You were on a public road, patroled by CHP. Let them write the ticket if they think its too loud. That jackass, TOOL!
"I say no, let me turn down the music. I then ask if they've ever considered putting a sign in between the trees saying, don't park here, you're blocking a section of the parking lot. He says, "I can write everybody here a ticket for parking perpindicular to the road, not parallel." I'm like, WTF? I didn't know that was a law either."
- Um, isn't there a sign right across the road warning to park parallel. Its a space saving technique. I'm surprised the Tool didn't see it that way? This is obvious f%king with and should not be tolerated. Turn him in to his boss ASAP.
"This guy just cruises around finding ways to f%ck with people. He gives law enforcement types a bad name."
- I second that motion.
- True, this guy does seem to go out of his way to make life difficult for others, specially climber types. I think it has something to do with late-life-bed-wetting issues or something. Abuse of power, at any level, is still abuse. And that's even if you're only following the letter of the law.
- In parting, just don't attract attention to yourself, you shouldn't have this problem.
- Post Standish Edit:
Just read the artical from above. Standish states:
"I use this and Highway 9 as major thoroughfares for patrolling. Highway 9 actually belongs to the State Parks Service; most people don't know that," he said."
- That's funny... How much money do you think the park system pays to maintain Highway 9? I'd like to see that rule. And if thats the case, what are all those CHP doing out there catching motorcycle riders all the time? Isn't that the job of the Rangers?
- Someones confused, maybe its me? Maybe this is also a self-promotion thing, kinda like "They can't do without me because I watch this whole area like a hawk..."
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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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Feb 11, 2008 - 10:41pm PT
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Some men you just can't reach.
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stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
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Feb 11, 2008 - 11:35pm PT
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Seems like a LEO with a name like that, if he comes over to hassle you, the best thing you could do would be to put on your best John Wayne drawl and say:
"Well Howdy Pilgrim!"
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Feb 12, 2008 - 12:12am PT
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"Whatever you do, don't let things get out of hand like this - someone will get hurt. In this case, the cop got killed:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R8olEn237h8 "
They both ended up dead. How senseless.
http://www.bostonmagazine.com/articles/collision_course/
The cop may have enjoyed spraying the driver in the face with his pepper spray, but was it worth his life? The driver didn't draw on him until after he was sprayed. Gratuitously pepper spraying someone doesn't justify being murdered, but it is a good way to provoke it.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Feb 12, 2008 - 12:19am PT
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I think this is the guy who had my friend's car towed while we were climbing in the park back in early 2000? Was he here back then? We had just come back from several months in Europe and my friend had out of state plates (Arizona) which had recently expired. He was getting new CA plates and we had just rented an apartment. The car was towed to Beaver Creek, it was after hours and we had no cell phones or way to get help. We had to call collect from a payphone to an old college buddy. The bill came to around $700. The a-hole had the nerve to ask us what the hell we were doing to in California. I've never met bigger f*#ktard!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2008 - 11:13am PT
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Jingy, you make some good points. I probably did deserve a "talkin' to", but this guy seems to derive a lot of pleasure from messing with peoeple.
Best to just keep a low profile around there and avoid him.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Feb 12, 2008 - 03:39pm PT
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A_P = LEO?
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Feb 12, 2008 - 03:50pm PT
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As Stevep said, with a name like Miles, you know the
guy is taking on everyone in the world, who're all his enemies,
overcompensating for something he really lacks, like balls.
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Caveman
climber
Cumberland Plateau
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Feb 12, 2008 - 04:11pm PT
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"How times have changed."
Nothing has changed.
"A_P = LEO?"
One, or close to one.
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cintune
climber
Penn's Woods
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Feb 12, 2008 - 04:30pm PT
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The best tactic is to avoid areas frequented by tools. If that's not possible, then try to blend in and lay low. They can't f*#k with you if they don't notice you. Any other approach is a calculated risk.
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jstan
climber
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Feb 12, 2008 - 05:24pm PT
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Don't youse guys read? From the California section of today's LA Times:
AUDIT CITES LAPD UNIT ON REVIEWS
...The 34 page report by the Police Commission's Inspector general raises questions about the Department's ability to police itself............
...in 29 (out of 60 cases) it found some sort of flaw......
..Deputy Chief Mark Perez, head of Internal Affairs said, "We take these things very seriously".............. saying "they( the reports) rarely if ever affect the decision of whether to discipline officers."
There. Do you all feel better now?
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cleo
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 12, 2008 - 05:36pm PT
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Miles Standish is not the only frightening cop at CRSP...
One named J. Rule threatened us with jailtime because we were entering our cars 15 minutes past sunset (it was still light, around 6:20 pm). He had us stand behind "a line" (imaginary) and screamed violently when one of us, completely astonished, apparently moved past "the line".
Us = 3 women and an infant. Yea, we're a scary bunch.
The cops at Big Basin Redwoods, however, have been very kind and reasonable.
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
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Feb 12, 2008 - 06:38pm PT
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cleo, did you complain or write a letter?
I agree with previous posters. make some appropriate noise when that happens by contacting the employer. letters on file don't go away and ultimately may be brought up in performance reviews and can make a difference.
no reason to be treated that way.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 12, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
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FWIW, Miles and company deal in an area where they have to be self sufficient. The nearest back up is going to be miles away.
However, there is a long history of Miles and company absolutely going after the barest infractions.
When we worked with him and Stu Langdoc and some Santa Cruz folks on the Castle Rock Climbing Committee, Miles actually was constructive and not 'up in people's faces'. I think the guy is just looking to be treated fairly and not have cigarette butts, and glass and beer cans left in the park. But with so many users, abuse of the park is bound to happen, so maybe he's burned out on it all.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Feb 12, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
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My friend got a parking ticket up there once for being slightly over the parking line. It seemed excessive. I haven't had any confrontations with the rangers at the park but I'm rarely there on weekends.
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bler
Boulder climber
Alamo, CA
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Feb 12, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
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someone should accidentally drop some tacks behind his cruiser ;)
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 12, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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A more fair/factual assessment would be that he's a power-tripping prick, Munge. Pretty simple. It really annoys me to no end when people give the "it's a hard/stressful job, blah, blah, blah" crap in defense of guys like this.
But then again, if people aren't writing letters or doing anything about it, why bother whining about it on an Internet forum. Seems pretty pointless. And while it may seem pointless to write letters, makes calls or what-have-you, at least it's making an effort.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 12, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
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agreed, when it's time to be civil, it's time to be civil, which is most of the time, and when it's not, it's definitely not.
We don't pay taxes to support LE to not serve the public good.
sidenote- not directed to anyone in particular...
We all know that dogs, alcohol and smoking is not permitted in the park correct? odd, I couldn't find a public source indicating alcohol was not allowed, maybe I'm mistaken.
"due to high fire hazard, smoking is prohibited on the trails within Castle Rock State Park.
Dogs are not allowed on the trails or in the campground."
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Feb 12, 2008 - 09:10pm PT
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Alcohol is allowed in the State Parks as far as I know. It is not allowed on the State beaches in Santa Cruz.
What does a park ranger make these days? $30,000 plus a house to live in? He loves the power of abuse.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2008 - 11:45am PT
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As far as I know there is only a 'No bottles allowed' restriction, no visible mention of alcohol. I always bring my Heineken keg-cans.
Now, if you've ever been to Summit Rock (home of teen-aged drunk boys) you'd see why there's a glass restriction. I was 3rd-classing up a gully to set a route and f-king 32 ounce bottle came flying passed me, with 2 feet. I never found the little bastard who chucked it.
Oh, and Summit is posted as 'Alcohol restriction - no alcoholic beverages allowed'. Cans and bottles. Kinda weird because I think they're the same park. It's right down the street.
Whatever.
Edit: Since we're posting pics to prove it ain't desert, here's more...
Cal Ridge...
Platypus Rock...
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 13, 2008 - 11:50am PT
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bler, tacks only work on bicycle tires--try roofing shingle nails, the short ones.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2008 - 11:52am PT
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Summit Rock's Tree Surgeon route.
Bouldering in a hail storm at Indian Rock (w/ keg-can)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2008 - 12:08pm PT
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I hear ya, Rok. I just wanted to post some pics.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Feb 13, 2008 - 12:18pm PT
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Oh yeah ... good times. More pics please :)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2008 - 02:03pm PT
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Rhyang, you want more, you got it.
Some of these are obscure but Bruce will known them all. They're all in his fabulous guidebook.
Underworld’s Balance Sheet
Underworld’s Hit Man
Underworld’s Gestapo Priest
Guadalupe Roadside Rock
Guadalupe Lower Rock
Guadalupe Lower Rock
View from top of Last Tempatation Rock
Last Temptation…I forgot the name of this one
Pulling the roof on Last Temptation’s Death and Taxes
Stevens Canyon Rock…kinda like my own little climbing gym, 15min from my house
Steven’s Canyon again
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Feb 13, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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The cool thing is...
Living where I live, with all of the incredible rock surrounding me, and having already made a single trip to Castle Rock, I'll never have to worry about some idiot ranger named Miles. I see no reason to go back.
Well, maybe if I were visiting friends in the area and they insisted... Or hogtied me... And all the bars and sushi joints were closed... I'm sure at some point enough other fun things could be eliminated to get me back.
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Feb 13, 2008 - 02:13pm PT
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True Randy - in the winter you have Tollhouse and in the summer you have Courtright (etc).
I could never live in the central valley or sierra foothills myself though... for me Skyline is ~30 minutes from my house, and that's why I go up there.
Fond memories, and hopefully good times to come - thanks bluering :)
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
Nowhere
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Feb 13, 2008 - 04:25pm PT
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Maybe it would be for the best if Ranger Miles was rotated into a different park where he wouldn't be as isolated and could be properly supervised. They could call it a promotion and even give him a raise. Castle Rock could use some fresh blood.
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quietpartner
Trad climber
Moantannah
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Feb 13, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
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Too gentle.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Feb 14, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
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bluering - True. I hate to say it, but the guy is a pansy. Yes, he does take his title too seriously and should take a chill pill every once in a while. Maybe if he only went after the biggest offenders, maybe then he can redeem himself, but it's going to take a whole hell of a lot of looking the other way and turning the other cheek for me to give him a good name. I've heard too much bad from this guy to ever see him as a real "Park Ranger".
PS - awesome photos. I don't know why but I can look at climbing photos for ever.
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LccMonkey
Trad climber
utah
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Feb 14, 2008 - 11:35pm PT
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Well lets track down his bosses e-mail adress and fill it up.
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Feb 15, 2008 - 01:22am PT
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"you may know you are harmless, but they have to assume you are trying to kill them. its self preservation. they don't know you, nor you them. "
Yeah.........
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Feb 15, 2008 - 06:43am PT
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The dude cuffs a guy for having a bicycle on a trail. Man, that is tight.
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Lost Arrow
Trad climber
The North Ridge of the San Fernando
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Feb 15, 2008 - 10:04am PT
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People that become LEO have mental health issues. That's just my observation. They get off on the power trip.
Lost
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2008 - 11:30am PT
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WTF happend to Majid's Summit/Castle Rock thread? Anyway, I'll probably go up there again and say Hi to my buddy Miles. Anybody else going this weekend? I'm still not sure whether it'll be Castle or Summit though.
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cleo
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 15, 2008 - 12:19pm PT
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Did I write a letter of complaint? No, I should have, and thought about it for a while. Why not, you ask? Well, it seems that the ranger-abuse at CRSP is well, well documented and known, for one, and for two, I really wanted to write a commendation letter for the two really awesome LEOs (in 2 separate incidents) that we met at BBSP along with the complaint letter at CRSP, but of course, I didn't have the names of those officers. I suppose I could try harder to find, or guess at their names (both were female, incidently). It just seems more legit and believable to send in compliments with complaints.
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cleo
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Feb 15, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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Have a chat w/ J. Rule too, fattrad.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 15, 2008 - 01:32pm PT
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The whole problem is that State Parks, in particular the administration at CRSP, is definitely anti-climber and anti-climbing. Miles attitude is just a reflection of the attitude of the higher ups. And, of course, they aren't getting sufficient funding from the State. In fact, there have been nothing but lay-offs up there for the past 20 years, which means that Miles is it, the only law on the Skyline, except for one CHP patrol a day. After dark, Miles is the man with big iron on his hip. When Planet Granite tried to run outdoor classes at Castle, State Parks tied them up with so many regulations that they ultimately abandoned the program. The whole place is basically anti-climber, but since they make their money off climbers, they're caught in a Catch 22 situation. Miles is easy to get along with if you always defer to his authority while being calm and polite.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Feb 15, 2008 - 01:47pm PT
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With great respect Bruce that is not good enough.
He should know which side of the bread has the butter.
Still, all the complaints I read here are nothing compared to my little forced bivy/Grade V at the Clark County Correctional Center after being busted climbing in Valley of Fire.
Torture, hog-tying, beating, and the coup de grace, a kick to the head while I was on the ground.
But I sued them successfully for violating my civil rights under color of authority.
Thats how it is done folks.
(or just whine on the internet)
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rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
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Feb 15, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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But is it not the case that other crags on Skyline are under different jurisdiction: Indian Rock and Summit Rock are inside Sanborn-Skyline county park (Santa Clara county parks) and Skyline Slabs (such as it is) is inside the Midpeninsula Regional Open Space District.
Once during a summer weekday I and my partner did get out kind of late from Summit Rock and one of the rangers advised us that he was about to write us a ticket. He was pretty cool.
It's also interesting to note that Castle Rock SP is technically inside Santa Cruz county ..
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 16, 2008 - 01:42am PT
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The Sanborn-Skyline County Park rangers are much more pro-climber than the authorities at Castle Rock State Park. Might be nice if they busted the night time bottle-breakers at Summit Rock though. Aquarian Valley, Devil's Canyon and Skyline Slabs are all under the MROSD, who, again, are very anti-climber. However, a working agreement was reached with them back in 1996 that allowed people to climb in those areas as long as they didn't add any new bolts. In return, the MROSD left all the old climbs in place without stripping them of bolts and hangers (which they had done in 1995 on the Betty, Green Room and some other new developments).
Definitely a patch work of authorities up along Skyline Boulevard(CA 35. Plus, you've got to factor in the local landowners, many of whom don't like Castle Rock's popularity with the climbing public.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 03:53pm PT
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Anybody wanna climb on Skyline this weekend? My regular partners have been busy lately.
Hell, I'd even settle for a bouldering partner, although I don't own a crashpad.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2008 - 06:18pm PT
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bump for a Skyline partner this weekend.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2008 - 01:04pm PT
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last bump for a partner this weekend. Anybody? I'll lead! I'll bring the beer too!
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MZiebell
Social climber
Prescott, AZ
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Maybe I missed it: did anyone find his supervisor's name and phone number?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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Seriously now, last bump for a freakin' partner this weekend!!!
I'm actually trying to talk one of our engineers into going, but he ain't got gear, so....
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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bluering! gimme an email or a call if you have my #.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2008 - 12:30am PT
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Hey murcy, gimme a call tomorrow at 8am or later, I'll be gone by 11am
408-261-1366
this post will self destruct after confimation, I can climb sat and sunday. Call....
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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dude, just go to the valley
that's what we're doing.
look for the white painter pants
ciao,
M
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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bump for lotsa Bay Area pics...(and Miles Standish pics)
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ohhyesss
Boulder climber
San Jose, California
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Feb 25, 2009 - 02:07pm PT
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This is absolutely hilarious, I hope he reads all these responses!! And for the record i have had my Miles encounters too. All I have to say is Karmas a b!tch Miles!!! I love the pics posted of him. This is supertopo at its finest
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 08:14pm PT
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Hey anybody else going up there tomorrow?
Kev is bailing to the Shuteye and my other partner wants to go late Sunday.
Me, I was stoked on going tomorrow.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 08:25pm PT
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i got a 5 dollar rei generic harness from 1970, but it works...
you know, the one in the mesh bag?
looks like a frikin dive shop bag or somthin.
i mean your goin,'oh, there's my sherwood reg, cool," then its just a harness, wtf?
at least i don't just sit there on the rock, making clicking noises with my tongue, like this guy on indian last week, i walk around the whole rock, and he is still therer, same spot, making that clicking noise, like that was gonna help him up.
i mean, fire or retire, right? wtf?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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Looks like I got a partner, you should show up too, Dr., I'll belay yer ass up!
Do it! Waterfall Wall area, er, Castle Rock Falls...
at least i don't just sit there on the rock, making clicking noises with my tongue, like this guy on indian last week
Was he Saharan African, I hear they communicate that way?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
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im there.
which place and what time?
i'm not a poser, we just seem neve5r to be on the same ticket.
this happens.
hey, got my weight down to 160.
6 feet, and 160 = dyno city!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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We should be at the Castle Rock Falls observation platform around 10;30/11am or so, we usually rappel in but it depends on the routes. Maybe we'll meet at the platform and decide what to do.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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cool beans!
i love the stuff u>-p the hill, the muffins rock.
thet would be rock and roll, a muffin and a rock, kind of like the foghat album?
fatrad, i am low on hippy lettuce, sorry, i won't have anything to share with you, ol buddy, ol guy, my friend, with a badge, who i never said a bad word about, in my whole life.
heck, i gave to the fireman's fund last week, ok?jeez, i could be walking into a sting op.
ok, it took me ten years to figure this album cover out, doh!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 09:38pm PT
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see you there, if we're not at the observation platform at 10;30-11am, if you're late, we'll be working stuff on the far climbers right...near le Muffins...
We'l hang at the platform and pound a beer though...
And yeah, Foghat is Badass!!!!!!
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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Jul 10, 2009 - 10:01pm PT
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An old cowboy had a great expression for Rangers like MS. He called them "Assbarkers", they bend you over, chew the hair off your ass, then bark at the hole. We shortened the phrase to Barker and bark to signal when one is near.
BITD we were shoeing up near the Bates Eliminator with some other climbers when my buddy barked softly. I looked around but saw no Barker and was about to offer to share my "lunch" with the other climbers. My buddy barked again so I just walked away. Turns out MS was undercover disguised as a climber and I didn't recognize him.
i heard a rumour he retired earlier this year, hope it's true.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 10:02pm PT
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roger, 79 in Boulder Creek tomorrow, winds- 3mph n-nw
barometric press-29.98 and movin
particulate matter-heavy
runway takan 29 Right
elevation 2949 ft +sl
clear for blast off...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 10:23pm PT
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Roger that, Dr., see you there.
Wack, I know what the tools look like up there. Even had one put his hand on his service pistol once when I talked him. As if he feared me...it was weak, he was a junior ranger.
I know Miles too....
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
way, WAY out there....(OMG)
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Jul 10, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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I dunno, man.
You're kinda scary. OhOh!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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Skully, that's what was weak. I was 6-8 feet away asking him questions about the Devil's Canyon closure and when it would reopen. I was totally non-hostile. And I'm pretty skinny and non-violent looking.
Totally uncalled for.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:11pm PT
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if smiles mandish f*#ks with me, isa gonna beat him over the head with my gitar and rub poison oak on his shrunken sack.
see, certain people get a sack like a bunch of grapes,
have you ever seen the grape that did not develop all the way, kind of half raisin, half grape?
there are usually one or two on every vine.
well, our friend, mr sandfish is apparently the person who has a sack like that.
ok then.
is lawrence welk on tonite?
ah one ah and a two ah...
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Jul 10, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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hey ol Blue, you think i'm weird, check out this email i just got from my best friend:
"Ugh- Me get plenty practice on Boatface!- Hey, now you is speakin my language! Why settle for a fishy smellin hole when you can have a hot hard pole? anyway, if You really want to go to Eureka thats fine with me- I can almost garantee you'll get your shlong sucked and if its something you don't want to pursue again that be cool. Let me know what up. its an easy place to find so we could probably meet up there. I'm sure they will both be out at the river working. but if we do get together up there make sure not to spill the beans about Foxy in an inadvertant stoned moment. Leslie fills my need for companionship & intimatcy (sex)- but Foxy fills the warped desire for something twisted beyond the norm. I think that that is really the main attraction- its all just so TWISTED!!!! anyhow talk to Ya later- Modulus"
i mean, wtf, over?
is everybody nuts nowadays?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2009 - 11:34pm PT
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It's all good, Sprock, everybody gotta 'weird' buddy. Prolly climbs pretty hard though, or fishes, or hunts...whatever. As long as he doesn't go Dahmer's Delight on me, it's cool.
Over...
Alright, I re-read that e-mail...that's f*#ked up, dude! But whatever...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2009 - 11:23am PT
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get 'er done, anybody gonna climb at CRSP with me and Mason???
Sprock....over....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Sully, hasn't rained in 3-4 days, good to go!!!
tons of stuff under 5.10
Indian Rock (across the street from CRSP) has a 5.8 face climb that's bolted. Also has some fun bouldering. Next to the 5.8 is a 5.10 too.
Waterfall wall, the route under the observation platform, is a 5.8 that's cool too. Just sling the platform poles and do it!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Good times, ran into the Stanford Climbing Crew/Club, whatever. Did the boulder circuit, Edris got a lead in, badda-boom badda-bing....
Indian Rock is a good circuit!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Oct 17, 2009 - 11:47pm PT
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will be good to go next weekend,
went to the KFJC 50th year anneversary party, met the guy who started the station in a brrom closet at el camino and california street back in 59.
only reason i stay in the bay area, that dang station
king records is cool, boosty was the house bass
sorry i missed the facelift, ran out of money that weekend,
frickin state is 6 weeks behind on my shared work program, arnie, get you sh#t together!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 17, 2009 - 11:51pm PT
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Me and you, we tag-team Arnie and take him down...he's a pussy now!!!!!
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JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
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Oct 18, 2009 - 01:10am PT
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I might be in Half Moon Bay on new years weekend.
Maybe I can come shred with you,
Blue and crew...????
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
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Another weekend, another trip to CRSP with the IHCC (International Heineken Climbing Crew).
Pretty swell day. I woulda had more of Wendy, but she was doing all the shooting with my camera.
Note to self: Remind IHC crew that they're supposed to bring beer also. Bluey's twelver doesn't last long with 6 people....especially when 2 are missing at the parking lot.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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Mar 29, 2010 - 09:52pm PT
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So weird to see these pics... Too many moons ago I spent every free moment here with Blanchard (Real Blinny), Yabo and a cast of other ne'erdowells. Good times. Next time I am in the Bay Area I will stop by and have some fun just like the old days!
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Mar 29, 2010 - 10:16pm PT
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Why are there bolts all over that boulder problem?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2010 - 11:00pm PT
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Why are there bolts all over that boulder problem?
Because some people aren't as badass as you? Have you ever soloed the routes in question?
EDIT: Do you know which 'pussies' put those routes up and felt a need to put bolts in????
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Mason
Trad climber
Yay Area
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Mar 30, 2010 - 01:04am PT
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Good pics. Yea, I'll bring a keg next time.
Some Pacifico. Ahh, Pacifico.
Ropegunn!!!!!!!
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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too funny Wes....!! bwahahaha!!!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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It's Castle Rock, Why TF do you care?
Oh and WEs- You should just boulder that 5.11 route with ALL of the bolts. Then you can down climb the grainy 5.10 "slab".
There are many atrocities at CRSP, this is not one of them.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
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So i finally sent that 5.10b monstrosity on the back side of Mt Doom. Holy shit! That rig is sustained and hard! Harder than some .11's out there.
Medusa would be proud of me.....
Those ratings on those routes on that rock are REAL.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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it was Bridwell's rope that made the difference,
quit trying to steal the Bird's thunder.
too bad you didn't get to try out the cushy spring like action of sprocks new anchor system,
it was a clean send, we didn't even pull on the rop that hard.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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I'm late to this thread, and just read about the individual handcuffed and placed inside a vehicle w/o actually being arrested, for pushing a bicycle!!
Legally, that's WRONGFUL IMPRISONMENT, a felony in most states. That calls for a visit to the appropriate prosecuting attorney and the filing of charges.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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wyoming, does it get cold?
i have a fugitive from the law living here, i was think he should move to wyoming and make tooth paste, what say?
do you have tooth paste in wyoming?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2010 - 06:47pm PT
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Sprock, is correct, I totally attribute that ascent to Jim's rope being deployed!!! Y'll shoulda seen the anchor...woulda held a Destroyer in dock!!!!
Holy!!!!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Looks more like Kentucky or Tennessee to me.....or maybe Cali?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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jeezus h christ, never lay that on a person with a head full of acid,
its bad enuff on the fresh Chronic...
i'm gonna be killin on that guy, or those guys, tonight.
i'm on the shelf, ya know.
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples.... ಠ_ಠ
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You mean this one? 4 or 5 bolts, something like that, if i recall correctly. According to this picture's date I did that one in 2008...wow, that seems so long ago...
The 5.7 (? I think) on the other side was fun. I remember a threaded sling to protect about 3/4 up. Pulling the roof move kinda freaked me out at the time but ended up being casual once all was said and done.
Pretty big raptors flying around that day too. All in all an awesome day. Thanks for reminding me...
climb safe
-n
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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it is on the other side of that first pic.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Nice pics of Mt. Doom .. haven't been back to CRSP in ages.
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Strider
Trad climber
one of god's mountain temples.... ಠ_ಠ
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Thanks Sprock. After you said that I looked in the guide and saw that I was mistaken. I lead the .10a route, not the .10b route. Looks like the .10b route is a top rope on the other side, as you mentioned.
Good climbing there. Good on you blue-y for sending the route. I remember looking at the line and thinking it looked pretty hard.
-n
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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Jan 26, 2011 - 08:00pm PT
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cursed to be pissed ad infinitum--he didn't get the girl!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jan 26, 2011 - 08:08pm PT
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I'll run that 'fugitive' scenario past my brother, the wyoming prosecutor, and get back to you Sprock.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Jan 26, 2011 - 11:39pm PT
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The retired head Tool from CRSP is supposedly descended from this guy... This is a fact.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 01:12am PT
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You need to throw an Entrapment Gala and invite lots of climbing attorneys!
A dozen properly credentialled climbers laughing at Toolboy and I bet he loses his junk!
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Adamame
Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 27, 2011 - 12:23pm PT
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I've heard the new LEO is an equal or bigger tool then Standish, but have yet to experience him. But then again I don't flaunt my Heinekens and obsessive tendencies. Usually I obey most of the rules and never make the mistake of going on the weekend unless I am guiding.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jan 27, 2011 - 12:29pm PT
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^^ Yes, he is.
Jason Rule, a.k.a he who threatened and screamed at 3 women and an infant. For leaving the park at dusk.
In all my interactions with police officers and rangers, this man was, by far, the scariest I've met.
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Adamame
Big Wall climber
Santa Cruz
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Jan 27, 2011 - 01:03pm PT
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Whoa this guy yells too.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 27, 2011 - 01:23pm PT
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That Badass blog is interesting.
But there were no rifles in the early 17th century, just smoothbores.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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Had a moist encounter at CSRP yesterday. Met some East Coast transplants too. On lead, boyz!!!
Nice guys. Cheers dudes!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 30, 2011 - 03:33pm PT
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cool place, nice pics.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
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I'm bumping this for my new homies from New England.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:34am PT
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crsp for whatevr gets my
BUMPAGE
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Jan 31, 2011 - 12:44am PT
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i will look out for mr standoffish at all costs - i do think it could be time for a letter writing campaign since he cant figure out that climbers are not the problem at crsp. the thieves/graffitiers/glass breaker types are to be busted hard but the climbers and hikers are not really going to do any really bad long term damage and need to be treated with a bit more respect since they are really hurting no one.
wtf ms sounds like such a supertool/possibly slightly retarded/ego fukd/prick.
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willm
Sport climber
Oakland, CA
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Jan 31, 2011 - 07:47pm PT
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Bluey! Thanks for the pics, man. I knew it was going to be a memorable day when you guys showed up with a handle of whiskey...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2011 - 07:52pm PT
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Cool! I was hoping you guys would see this.
You can have all the images I took. They are yours.
Cheers!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Feb 16, 2011 - 04:41pm PT
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wtf, over?
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 16, 2011 - 05:22pm PT
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Snowing on Caste Rock Summit right now. Doesn't look like it will last
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2011 - 07:13pm PT
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Sorry I didn't call, Sprock. It was a last minute deal.
I'll call ya next time.
Snow on Castle Rock? Sweet! It is kinda cold out.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2011 - 11:18am PT
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Holy!!!!
I was up there yesterday and there is mucho snow on the ground. The road is a clusterf*#k, CRSP parking was dicey. I was sliding around near the gun range.
Just a heads up. (I was actually lamenting that I didn't have my xc skis with me). Kinda sucks too, I have guns, fishing poles and climbing gear, but no skis in the back. One more thing to keep in the truck....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2011 - 11:30pm PT
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I got busted! Summit Rock.
I was ilegally tresapssing on closed grounds!
Cool Ranger, though! Cool guy. Mark!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 22, 2011 - 12:33am PT
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Hey you stood us up at PGSF Saturday. Had a tr set up on the .11 handcrack and everything.
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damo62
Social climber
Brisbane
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Feb 23, 2011 - 12:43am PT
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bluey... do tell about yur bust
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 23, 2011 - 01:29am PT
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I guess I'm kinda of glad you got caught Blue. It gives us an opportunity to tell others that 1) yes enforcement at Summit is real, you often see the truck at the rock, and 2) to preserve whatever clout local climbers might have in their discussions with the land managers to restore access, I'd ask that climbers stay off of Summit Rock until access is restored.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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who's yo daddy...
lets get baked
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2011 - 11:30am PT
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I called you yesterday, Sprock. We went to Mt Doom.
call me 408-261-1366. I ain't climbing today though.
Regarding the 'Summit Bust', I had it coming. I took my buddie's nephew up there so I could test drive my cross country skis. I did. But then I thought it would be cool to show him the view. I did.
We got popped.
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cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
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wow, cool, XC skiing in CRSP?
bluering, if that ever happens again, lemme know, I want to go skiing! (of course, it never will)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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I suppose it goes without saying, the boy's dad and my buddy weren't too happy to hear we were BOTH issued citations. And the boy is on probation.
According to the nice ranger though, the citation would not really affect his record.
As I said, we jumped a fence that was clearly marked. I do not blame the tool.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Man, some people will do anything to avoid climbing...
Cleo, not the first time in my memory it's snowed there. I've skied Grizzly peak, too. Not to mention the cruel slopes of Orinda!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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bluey
I'm assuming you were busted by Santa Clara County Parks, not State Parks.
If "Mark" is who I'm thinking of, he's a good guy, very reasonable. Let's keep the Sanborn Park staff on "our side" by treating them respectfully even when they catch us in flagrante delecti as it were.
Sorry you and the kid got popped. How much $?
what's wrong with this picture?
"I have guns, fishing poles and climbing gear, but no skis in the back."
Guns are prohibited (even unloaded) in your possession at Sanborn Park (all Santa Clara County Parks).
Haven't been any salmon in the San Lorenzo RIver watershed for at least 40 years.
6" of snow on the ground.
So what the f$(*K did you really have in mind?
(just yanking yer chain)
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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FYI: On the evening of Feb. 2nd, I attended a meeting of the Santa Clara County Parks and Recreation Commission and asked one of the board members how to get the Summit Rock Raptor Closure issue placed on the agenda. The other members of the Access Fund Summit Rock group, including Paul Minault, all know about this now and I assume it is going to be an issue at a subsequent meeting. So, in the current political climate, it doesn't seem like it's really a good idea to get busted out there trespassing on Summit in Sanborn-Skyline County Park. True, things are moving at a snail's pace, but things are still moving in the right direction. Of course, County Parks has a naturalist up at State Fish and Wildlife who says that Summit should be closed year round to protect the peregrines, but the Access Fund and the Summit Rock group have another naturalist at UCSC who says the closure should be strictly "seasonal". In the meanwhile, keep your powder dry and don't rock the boat. As Blue notes, the rangers at Summit have always been quite friendly (up until now), unlike some of the past and current staff at CRSP. Just wanted to let you know that something is indeed happening behind the scenes. If you want to be part of the Summit Rock group, contact Paul Minault @ the Access Fund.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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This is my wishful thinking of course, but when the Summit Rock closure is listed as an action item on the agenda of the Santa Clara County Parks & Recreation Commission, the panel will meet and ask County Parks to explain their actions. Then, who knows what happens next? Think that Paul Minault and the Access Fund Summit Rock Group are looking into it. But I haven't heard anything from them in a while. I know there should be quite a few people providing inputs on the Raptor issue. Issue still in doubt. If I hear anything definite, I'll be sure to mention it here unless I've been told to keep my trap shut.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 16, 2011 - 03:26pm PT
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Access Fund thinks this program in the Platte may serve as a pattern for our own efforts at Summit Rock in Sanborn-Skyline County Park:
"New raptor monitoring program in the South Platte will provide greater climbing access
Home to the iconic Wunsch’s Dihedral and Center Route on Cynical Pinnacle, as well as Topographical Oceans on the Dome, the Cathedral Spires area will see a new change in climbing management by Jefferson County Open Space. Jefferson County has been a leader in raptor protection policies that provide a good balance between public access and wildlife protection, yet for many years, resource managers lacked the resources and legal access necessary to actively monitor the expansive Cathedral Spires area. As a result, a blanket closure was enforced from March 1st to July 31st every year.
We are pleased to announce that the County recently gained legal access from a municipal water district, which will enable annual monitoring at Cathedral Spires, preventing a blanket closure. A full area closure is expected from March 1st through the end of April. During this time, the County will locate active nest sites, evaluate the minimum buffer size, and implement spot closures.
We thank all of the local advocates that expressed their concerns about the closure with Jefferson County. In the last five years specifically, local climber Jason Haas of Fixed Pin Publishing took an active role in working with the county to address the issue. In addition, Jefferson County Park Ranger Mike Morin played an instrumental role in helping redesign the management plan with Jefferson County. The Access Fund assisted with outreach and site visits to the Cathedral Spires and will continue to advise on climbing management.
Stay tuned for an update in May regarding access to specific crags at http://status.accessfund.org. If you are interested in their volunteer raptor monitoring program, contact Jefferson County Open Space about joining a training session.
For more information, see the Access Fund's raptor management policy."
Wait and see!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Mar 17, 2011 - 03:48pm PT
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Heard from the Access Fund yesterday that there is indeed someone working on getting the Summit Rock Raptor Closure issue on the agenda of the Santa Clara Parks and Recreation Commission. Will keep you informed about the date and time of the meeting, which will probably take place in downtown San Jose. Hoping for a big turnout!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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According to Paul Minault of the Access Fund, the Santa Clara County Recreation Commission is meeting tomorrow, May 4th, 2011, at 6:30 pm in San Jose. The agenda item has been reduced to a presentation by Don Rocha of the Parks Dept. on management of the peregrines at Summit in response to a letter from Glenn Stewart, the senior biologist at UC Santa Cruz, who is an expert on peregrines and their nesting habits. Paul says he is waiting to hear back if the Summit Rock Access Fund group can speak, or if this is just a staff presentation?
Can anyone attend this meeting? We do need people in attendance who want a reasonable seasonal closure of Summit Rock to allow for raptor nesting, instead of the current blanket closure of the whole rock. It seems as though it would be a shame if Summit Rock, one of the most popular climbing venues in the whole Bay Area, remained closed permanently due to a lack of interest on the part of climbers. Summit Rock, incidentally, contains some of the only natural cracks in the Bay where traditional lead climbing with gear can be practiced. There are also incredible views of the whole Bay Area from the ledge at the top of the First Tier.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Not sure it's a lack of interest by climbers. Also not sure how much help the access fund has been. It's a shame when I am hearing about this on the taco and not emailed from the access fund. Maybe they suddenly are getting spammed?
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Nothing I like better than a republician complaining about law and order ;)
They always vote for stiffer punishments and then they cry when it happens to them ;)
PS. This post was written in response to the first page OP. i had no idea that the thread drift had gone in to raptor land.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Well, I was in attendance last night at the Santa Clara County Recreation Commission meeting at City Hall in San Jose. Paul Minault from the Access Fund did testify that some kind of arrangement should be worked out where Summit Rock should be closed on a seasonal basis to allow the Peregrines to nest there. Paul had introduced into the record a letter from Prof. Glen Stewart of the Raptor Group at UC Santa Cruz to the effect that a blanket year-round closure was exceptional and went against standard practice in all other Peregrine nesting areas in the whole USA. However, the Commission and Don Rocha from County Parks would not hear a word of compromise on the issue. The Commission voted unanimously to continue the ban on access to Summit Rock year round. One of the members of the Commission even started talking about stripping the bolts on top of Summit to keep climbers from ever rapelling down and disturbing the Peregrines. Paul says that we should have some kind of public meetings where the various interested groups should hammer out some compromise solution that would allow climbing to go on at Summit at the times that the Peregrines were not in residence there.
IOWs: We got stone walled. The next step up the hierarchy is to the County Board of Supervisors, but that might end in the matter being sent back to the Commission and County Parks. We already know what their answer will be. Well, I guess we better just keep on trying! At least, our arguments have been written into the public record. It's been my experience that getting the newspapers involved. One nosy reporter will get the authorities moving faster than a hundred public meetings. But that's just my take on the situation. Sure worked with MROSD up in the Aquarian Valley back in 1996-97. Wait and see!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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thx Bruce and Paul, glad you guys were able to attend.
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graniteclimber
Trad climber
The Illuminati -- S.P.E.C.T.R.E. Division
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http://www.sccgov.org/
Mission Statement
To act in an advisory capacity to the Board of Supervisors in promoting, aiding, encouraging and conducting public recreation, including the acquisition and development of recreation and park facilities and programs, and in the planning, maintenance, development and operation of all recreational areas and facilities owned, controlled or leased by the County.
Meeting Schedule
Meetings are held on the first Wednesday of each month at 6:30 PM at the County Government Center.
Member Roster
* John Gibbs
* Sparky Harlan
* Jan Hintermeister
* Steve Munzel
* Ann Waltonsmith
* Greg West
* 1 vacancy
It would appear that the Commission may not be acting pursuant to their Mission Statement or the governing Santa Clara County Ordinance and is not "promoting, aiding, encouraging and conducting public recreation."
http://library.municode.com/HTML/13790/level4/TITAGEAD_DIVA33ENREAG_CHIVDEPARE_ART2PARECO.html
Sec. A33-73. - Duties; purposes.
The Commission shall act in an advisory capacity to the Board of Supervisors in promoting, aiding, encouraging and conducting public recreation, including the development of recreation and park facilities and programs therefor, and shall act in an advisory capacity to the Board of Supervisors in the planning, maintenance, development and operation of all recreational areas and facilities owned, controlled or leased by the County. It shall study and make recommendations to the Board of Supervisors on the acquisition and development of recreation areas and facilities such as, but not by way of limitation, playgrounds, parks, beaches, pools, campsites and other recreational facilities.
Commission members are appointed by the Supervisors of Santa Clara County.
http://library.municode.com/HTML/13790/level4/TITAGEAD_DIVA33ENREAG_CHIVDEPARE_ART2PARECO.html
Sec. A33-71. - Membership and term.
The Commission shall consist of seven members. Five members shall be appointed, one each, by individual Supervisors and shall be representative of the five County supervisorial districts. Two shall be representatives of the County at large to be appointed, one each, on a rotational basis by individual Supervisors. The rotational sequence for making these two appointments shall be determined by the Board of Supervisors and thereafter shall continue as so designated.
Each Commissioner shall have a term of four years and until his or her respective successor is appointed and qualified. No member shall be eligible to serve on such Commission for more than three consecutive terms. A vacancy shall exist and shall be reported to the Board of Supervisors whenever a Commissioner fails to attend more than three consecutive regular meetings of the commission without good cause entered into its minutes.
If you don't like what they are doing tell the Supervisors.
http://www.sccgov.org/
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Paul Minault of the Access Fund is currently mulling over the next step. And, yes, one of the courses of action being considered is to contact the County Board of Supervisors. Don't want to follow that course of action prematurely however because the Board of Sups may just throw it back to the County Park and Rec. Commission. We learned last night what their position is on the matter.
No whine before its time!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 12, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Just learned an important piece of information regarding the original Summit Rock bequest to the State/County. Russell Varian and his family used to climb at Summit many years ago. When the Varian family gave Summit Rock to the State/County, they gave it with the intent of it being a place to climb. Need a lot more detailed information of course, but this might give the Access Fund and the Summit Rock group some additional leverage in their negotiations with Santa Clara County Parks.
Wait and see!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA
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May 12, 2011 - 03:45pm PT
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Bluey - two words. Flip cam.
I haven't gone through the nearly 200 posts but I realize this happened to you several years back.
Having this incident on tape will go a long way towards helping your case. Otherwise it's just his word against everyone else's. Have a flip cam at the ready if you think you're going to be tooled, it will present your side of the story in court.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 13, 2011 - 03:12pm PT
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Ever since my altercation with him last summer, I've kept my D90 DSLR with audio/video capabilities at the ready to film Ranger J. Rule and his cohorts in action at the drop of a hat. When you stop to consider that the Varian family gave Castle Rock to the State as a place to climb, it is really unfortunate that the State Park rangers regard climbers as criminals and climbing as an illegal activity. The big question of course is: Why the heck did they disband the Castle Rock Climber's Committee back in 2001 without ever formulating a reasonable policy for replacing and renewing old bolts? As Floride suggests, next time Blue have your camera phone at the ready.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 13, 2011 - 03:19pm PT
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Hey Bruce, thanks for your work on the Summit Rock matter.
My buddy says he walked past the trail to the Valley of Stone and there was no sign indicating it was closed (like there used to be). You know if it's back open? Hear anything?
Cheers!
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Dr. X
Big Wall climber
X- Town
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May 13, 2011 - 04:10pm PT
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Bump for climbing related content.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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May 13, 2011 - 04:52pm PT
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Bruce,
Why the heck did they disband the Castle Rock Climber's Committee back in 2001 without ever formulating a reasonable policy for replacing and renewing old bolts? As Floride suggests, next time Blue have your camera phone at the ready.
fwiw, i never saw a formal disbandment. The announcement of meetings stopped coming and separately certain climbing folks within that committee had the ears of local LE and Park management personnell from what I could see. There was also a fair bit of turn over on the committee by the attendees. So I don't think it was formally disbanded as much as no one kept pursuing it. Sad in a way, but a political reality.
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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May 13, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
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I'm not sure any of the summit rock stuff will make any difference longer term, all of castle rock is one of the 70 parks listed for closure.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 14, 2011 - 01:21am PT
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Don't know anything about the signage at the entrance to the Valley of Stone (aka 'Lion Caves') or whether anybody took it out. Have to take a look myself.
You don't know anybody in real estate who can do a check on the title of the property where Summit Rock is located? According to what Marc Jensen says, the Varian family gave that property to the State specifically for rock climbing. The Varians used to climb there in the 1930s with others who later became the Rock Climbing Section of the Sierra Club. If this is true, there has to be some compromise, I'd guess, with such other non-climbing activities as bird watching. But we need some proof of the Varian's original intention.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2011 - 09:34am PT
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Interesting, Bruce.
http://www.paloaltoonline.com/weekly/morgue/news/1995_Jan_4.CREATR44.html
Also;
During this era, Judge J.D. Welch, an early conservationist, acquired Castle Rock and much of the land surrounding it. By the early 1900's, an interurban streetcar ran between Santa Clara and Congress Springs, just west of Saratoga, where visitors could hire a rig to take them up to Castle Rock. One frequent visitor in those days was Russell Varian, who was destined to become a famous scientist and the park's founder. His goal was to secure the park for the future, and in 1959 he obtained an option to buy the land through the Sierra Club. Although he died shortly before the purchase could be completed, his dream became reality when his memorial fund secured the first twenty-seven acres. On July 12, 1968, Castle Rock State Park officially opened with 513 acres of land donated by the Varian Foundation and the Sierra Club.
from here
http://www.santacruzstateparks.org/parks/castlerock/hist.php
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 14, 2011 - 03:27pm PT
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Marc Jensen emailed Paul Minault of the Access Fund to state that when Marc interviewed Dorthy Varian she said that her and her husband climbed at Summit Rock in the 1930s and that it formed part of the original Varian Foundation Trust. The Varians gave Summit to the State originally with the intent that it remain a climbing site. Now someone out there needs to get in touch with the Varian heirs or their representatives and tell them that the original intent of their bequest is being violated by the County. Again, someone in real estate has to check the title of the Summit property. Sounds to me too that if the County Parks Rangers start stripping bolts out of Summit Rock to discourage climbers from bothering the nesting Peregrines they are actually vandalizing pre-existing recreational facilities in Santa Clara County. If I recall correctly, when I first visited Summit Rock with Phil Arnot and the Carlmont Alpine Club in 1961, there were already anchor bolts in place there. I think if someone can find one scrap of paper documenting the Varian family's original intent that Summit be a climbing site, we can win this fight. Especially if Castle Rock is shut down and there is no place left to climb on the Skyline except Summit Rock. More research!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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May 14, 2011 - 03:32pm PT
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Seems like this deserves it's own thread, however ironic the title may be...
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 14, 2011 - 03:38pm PT
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Here's an excerpt of an email Marc Jensen, the original guidebook author, wrote to Clint Cummins regarding Summit Rock and the Varian family, who originally gave the property Summit Rock is located on as a bequest:
Marc says he "got to talk with Dorothy [Varian] at her house 1990ish time frame.I was on the
Castle Rock Advisory Board at the time when
it was first started up and they started working on the General
Plan for the park.
She was quite old at the time I don't expect she is still with us.
The meeting were [sic] I talked with her was at her house in Cupertino.
She said explicitly that she and Russell bought the property because
they were climbing there and they wanted to see climbing continue
there. That group that they climbed with morphed into the the Sierra
Club Rock Climbing Section.
She had some old photos of them climbing in that area. I am pretty
sure that they climbed at all the rocks in the area including
Summet [sic] Rock."
True, this is only anecdotal evidence, but there has to be someone out there who remembers the original intent of the Varian family and their bequest.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 21, 2011 - 03:29pm PT
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Promising developments:
Heard yesterday from Paul Minault at the Access Fund that Santa Clara County Parks wants to start talking (probably this July) about re-opening Summit Rock to rock climbing, at least on some kind of seasonal basis (i.e. when the Peregrines aren't nesting). What is especially promising about this is that County Parks actually initiated the contact with the Access Fund, which means they may be serious about working out some kind of compromise.
The Access Fund says that they're formulating a petition for climber's to sign to express their desire for a re-opening of Summit, but nothing solid yet.
This does sound like things may be getting better. Let's all hope so!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2011 - 06:54pm PT
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Thanks for doing the heavy lifting, Bruce. Sorry I couldn't make that last meeting.
And thanks, Paul Minault!!!!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 22, 2011 - 02:05am PT
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"It's not over until the fat lady sings", as they say Blue. Paul has a few ideas to run by County Parks regarding acceptable compromise solutions they'll be willing to accept. Wait and see, but keep your powder dry. It sure does sound like County Parks is willing to negotiate a solution of some sort. You should really thank Paul Minault for his slow, sane, patient approach to this problem. He was non-confrontational and gave County Parks some latitude to negotiate from. The Access Fund is going to get a petition going a.s.a.p. too for climbers to sign expressing their endorsement of a reasonable, seasonal closure of Summit during raptor nesting and fledging. Don't know the precise language yet because someone else is writing it.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 27, 2011 - 02:45pm PT
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Guess I'm gong to have to go down to the Santa Clara County Recorder's Office and check out the history of the title of the property on which Summit Rock is located. By the way, if anyone is interested, Summit Rock is at 16055 Sanborn Road, Saratoga, CA 95070, but that sounds like the site of the Summit Rock Parking Lot along the Skyline? Dunno! Another trip down to SJ City Hall, but if this information will help the Access Fund, I guess I'll have to do it!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2011 - 01:46pm PT
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Hey Sprock, I'm hitting Aquarian Valley today. Be there!
I called ya but no answer. I'll be with 2 other buddies. Leave now.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 28, 2011 - 09:37pm PT
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Hey Bruce, did somebody put a new route between Chewy's Lookout and Green Thumb?
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor on top.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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May 29, 2011 - 03:12am PT
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"Hey Bruce, did somebody put a new route between Chewy's Lookout and Green Thumb?
4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor on top."
Isn't that Eddie Tharp's "Mother Lode" (5.11b) right up the center? Finger splitting edges if I recall correctly.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2011 - 11:01am PT
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Yeah, bruce, I think that's it. Sounds right. I didn't have my book with me, it fell apart a couple of years ago. Still haven't replaced it. I thought I had the place memorized!
It's a really beautiful line. It looks 5.9, but I got worked on it!!!! I wanna go back back and give it another go. You need good smearing shoes on that thing. And yeah, I thought I ripped a couple of finger tips off more times than once.
Cool rock. Awesome setting.
(wear Deet on the approach. Check yer pants frequently. The place is Tick F*#king City!!!)
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2011 - 01:21pm PT
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I love this place. Never a crowd, and great friction moves around moss. It's not as mossy as it looks. All the moves are exposed rock. Cool place. Thanks Bruce!!!
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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May 29, 2011 - 05:27pm PT
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Heading up in a bit to boulder, is it muddy?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2011 - 05:31pm PT
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No.
Rock on, brother.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jun 30, 2011 - 10:37pm PT
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Okay, gang. This afternoon at 4:00 pm (July 30th), Paul Minault and I attended a working group RSVP meeting at the Santa Clara County Parks office in Los Gatos. Unfortunately, we came back empty handed again. Paul tried to introduce a compromise seasonal closure of Summit to allow the Peregrines to nest and raise their young there from July to December. However, two Park and Recreation Commission members, who were also members of the local chapter of the Audubon Society (and unaffiliated with the national organization), wouldn't hear a word. When Paul talked about a compromise seasonal closure, he was greeted with NO WAY. We did have a few people there who were more reasonable. But Paul says that he's going to the national Access Fund and have them spear head a petition drive. The Santa Clara Board of Supervisors may be more amenable to a compromise solution because they are elected. It became obvious that the Audubon Society regards climbers as a menace to bird habitat. Don't quote me. That's certainly my subjective impression of course and we do have to work with these guys. The Rangers emphasized that they are not anti-climber, but are bound by the recommendations of State Fish and Wildlife.
Paul says that he's put $20 grand of his legal business time into this issue and now it's time to go national and enlist the resources of the national Access Fund. We did give them stacks of paper showing that Peregrine closures are seasonal throughout N. America so that info is on the public record. Paul also gave them a book on Peregrines by the world's leading authority on peregrines, who concluded that climbers have appeared to have had no effect on peregrine breeding habits.
Sorry to be the bearer of bad tiding after all this build up. So much work and they're still standing in the way of compromise. For example, the Ranger ecologist stated that even if the Peregrines departed today County Parks would have to wait 3 years minimum before reopening Summit to climbing. Whatever compromise Paul suggested, the authorities found a way to block it. On to the national Access Fund and the petition drive, I guess.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2011 - 11:13pm PT
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For example, the Ranger ecologist stated that even if the Peregrines departed today County Parks would have to wait 3 years minimum before reopening Summit to climbing. Whatever compromise Paul suggested, the authorities found a way to block it. On to the national Access Fund and the petition drive, I guess.
What a bunch of bureaucratic, environmental bullshit! Keep us posted, Bruce.
I've always hated liberal crap like this, and I hate to bring politics to this thread, but apparently politics and rabid environmentalism has hit this thread.
One bird can nest and deprive multiple peoples of nature and fun. One f*#king nest!!! And they aren't endangered!
Liberalism is a mental disorder...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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It ain't 'liberalism'. It's 'bureaucratism'. In all honesty it should be
pointed out that bureaucrats do tend to hybridize with liberals pretty freely.
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just_one
Mountain climber
CA
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thats fvcking lame. thanks for all of your efforts bruce and paul. lets hope the AF can help.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Just seems to be a classic committee room power play, whatever name you want to give it, Blue: Ultra Liberal, Neo-Stalinist, Aggro Nature Nazi? One small group, the Birders, have grabbed power and are beating up on their supposed anti-nature natural enemies: i.e. the climbers. They've got the right end of the whip handle, for now at least. Going national with the Access Fund in Boulder sounds like the appropriate next step. I like the idea of a petition drive.
Also, incidentally, don't imagine that County Parks and the Audubon Society are not watching this SuperTopo forum. The self-described woman Ph.D. ecologist showed me a print out of strings on this site to prove that climbers were irresponsible and liable to injure birds just to get back into an area. She'd experienced this kind of 'bad behavior' in other areas before, she insisted. The ecologist ranger also had read this blog and responded by saying that County Parks was not "anti-climber". All I'm saying is that you should watch what opinions you put in cyber space here. County Parks and the Audubon Society are taking notes. Any indication that you will willingly break rules and violate closures can be used against us later on. Doesn't create a good image that lets the Access Fund negotiate confidently with the authorities.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 11:51am PT
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Good points, Bruce.
It just pisses me off when we (climbers) are portrayed as destructive, when in reality, we police that place more than the rangers do!!!
Who picks up the glass and garbage from the bottle-chuckers? Who tells the brats to quit disturbing wildlife?
The rangers are never around. It's the climbers who regulate that area!!! Or used to anyway.
To shut down an entire recreational area year-round for a bird is ridiculous. I see falcons all the time on Central Expressway in Mountain View. This bird really NEEDS Summit Rock to nest?
People should be allowed back in. The falcon will adapt and survive as others have done.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2011 - 12:46pm PT
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Who you ask.. how about Shipoopi and Potter. How about Potters climb of the Arch. How about Cosgrove and Smith power bolting their way up the Muir wall.
There are idiots in every crowd, and momentary lapses of reason. But overall...
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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At the meeting yesterday I asked the Rangers specifically if they were doing anything to mitigate the negative effects of graffiti painters, bottle breakers and drunks at Summit Rock? One of the County Park Rangers replied that so far this year they had issued over 50 tickets in Sanborn-Skyline County Park. Well, maybe down below in the lower half of Sanborn-Skyline County Parks where there is drive in camping they issue tickets. But another Ranger said it would be "too expensive" to patrol Summit Rock after dark. Well, there you have it: It sure isn't too expensive to print larger metal signs banning climbers from Summit and instituting a weekend horse patrol to keep climbers off the rock though, is it? What did it cost to have all those Ph.D.'s, Rangers and bureaucrats gathered at County Parks Headquarters yesterday? The point is that I've rarely seen any Ranger presence out at Summit Rock and environs. What Blue is saying is true with respect to Summit: Climbers are the only ones who've ever organized cleanups to remove the bottles and trash there and they are the ones who've chased off the bottle breakers and drunks. Summit has become a much more eco-friendly place due to the presence of climbers who don't want drunks throwing bottles down on their heads from above. The ecologist Ranger at the meeting even admitted as much.
It just seemed to me that a little local splinter group of the Audubon Society has ensconced themselves as a simple majority on the Santa Clara Parks and Recreation Commission (that has a advisory role only I might add) and are actively pursuing an anti-climber, no compromise agenda. When the lady Ph.D. ecologist said, "We've run into this problem before", I wanted to ask her directly, "Where? Is this part of a national policy on the part of your group?" Obviously, there is some kind of agenda these people are pushing. How come there are no trail runners, dog walkers, equestrians, mountain bikers, or climbers on the Recreation Commission? There is not one representative on that Committee who is an active outdoor sport athlete. The head of the committee is even an officer in the local chapter of the Audubon Society and often works weekends as a docent leading bird watching trips in the local open spaces and nature preserves.
Well, I think the Access Fund is going to call for a real scientific study of the nesting pair of Peregrines at Summit headed by one of the leading experts on them in the world. According to his book, which Paul presented to the County Parks resident biologist, Peregrines show no sign of being disturbed by the presence of climbers in their territory. None whatsoever. A study group like this would unite climbers, ecologists and biologists and might pave the way toward an adjudicated compromise solution. A seasonal closure is reasonable. A blanket year-round closure is unprecedented and probably indefensible.
Paul offered a whole list of compromise solutions including a seasonal closure and re-opening Summit to climbing only on Saturdays during the off season to see if it bothered the falcons. He even proposed building an alternate nesting site near Summit but not actually on the rock itself. The bird lady and her allies would have none of it. All I do know is that Paul is notifying the President of the Access Fund advising him to issue a full national Access Alert followed possibly by a petition drive to be presented to the Santa Clara Board of Supervisors. At least they're elected officials and have to answer to the voters.
When I mentioned that climbing had gone on at Summit for probably over 60 years and that the climbs there were part of a historical progression chronicling development of the sport I was greeted with smirks, sneers and a stony silence. The only solution the Birders offered was building an outdoor artificial wall some place else to teach children climbing skills. The tradition of Summit as a climbing area obviously meant absolutely nothing to these people. Well, on to the next level!
I think it's like William Blake says, "One law for the Lion and the Ox is tyranny!"
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Bump from a former local. Thanks Bruce.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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another bump from another ex-local. Between this and the impending CRSP closure it could be a dark time for south bay climbers. Lexington and Alameda Reservoirs anyone?
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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It sounds like everyone's best hope at this point is to ensure that these bureaucrats have less money, not more. Seriously, defunding them is the best option IMO. Let them go get real jobs and learn to be productive members of society.
I spent yesterday climbing at an area that the FS doesn't know of. The climbers know of a nesting pair of Peregrines and voluntarily avoid that area. The birds successfully nested and the young have fledged and although all of the birds are flying around the area and you hear them making their Peregrine cries as they fly, climbers are still leaving that section in peace. The birds don't care that climbers are nearby. If the government just banned climbing in the area because climbers were so close to the birds, it would cause a lot of resentment and anti-government feelings to arise, and people would say nasty things online. Even if they didn't really mean them.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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What gets me is that the Santa Clara County Parks and Recreation Commission is supposed to support and facilitate recreational activities and facilities in the county. However, there is not one person on the Parks and Rec Commission who represents the interests of mountain bikers, trail runners, rock climbers and equestrians. In fact, there is a triumvirate, including the Chairperson, who are all members of a local splinter group of the Audubon Society and who seem to want to prevent those activities in County Parks. Not one of the people on that committee are engaged in any form of active outdoor recreation. At the meeting last week, myself and the Access Fund attorney were both told by the Birders that we would have to take into account other people's interests besides ourselves. The only "other people" that she was referring to, it seemed, were her and other members of the local Audubon Society chapter. It's like the Access Fund attorney told me in private afterwards out in the Parking Lot: They gave us 'The Finger'. The meeting, which we were invited to by County Parks, was obviously just a forum for County Parks to repeat the same message we had received last month at a meeting of the Parks and Recreation Commission down at City Hall in San Jose: No compromise! Get lost you evil anti-nature rock vandals! At least, there wasn't any talk about chopping the bolts on pre-existing routes to prevent climbers from rapping in and disturbing the Peregrines as there had been down at City Hall off the record.
It seems to me that vandalizing pre-existing recreational resources in Santa Clara County is not exactly a legitimate function of the Parks and Recreation Commission no matter what their chairperson says off the record. Oh well! Just have to wait and see what course of action the national Access Fund recommends.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2011 - 04:12pm PT
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Isn't that the unfortunate irony of this sh#t-sandwhich. A Peregrine Falcon nesting year after year on top of San Jose City Hall, yet one on a rock on skyline Blvd in a recreational area, is to be protected and fondled over.
I think the agenda is clear. It is not about the bird. It's crazy Audubon leftists and a power struggle.
Vote wisely, my friends.
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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I think the agenda is clear. It is not about the bird. It's crazy Audubon leftists and a power struggle.
Rather than spouting this sort of pointless drivel, how about you contact your county supervisor and try to convince them to work on this issue? http://www.sccgov.org/portal/site/scc
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Yes, the Access Fund is going to work on the issue via the County Board of Supervisors. But first we're going to try to replace political rhetoric with science by having a very well respected biologist in the field conduct a real scientific study of the Peregrines at Summit Rock. The real problem is that some younger scientists up at State Fish and Wildlife in Sacramento recommended to County Parks that Summit, because of its small size, be closed to climbing year round. The only way to do an end-field run around the bureaucratic blockade is to appeal to a higher authority, who will, hopefully, make an alternative recommendation (i.e. a seasonal closure). It appears to be a minority opinion, but some people at County Parks and on the Rec. Commission are not against a seasonal closure. We just are in need of some real science upon which to base an alternative conclusion. Until then, County Parks is going to continue with the year-round closure of Summit.
Of course, I do understand your frustration, Blue. This whole closure business is just plain nonsense. It seems to me that what the Audubon Society wishes would happen is that the Peregrines breed and spread to all the rocks on the Skyline so they can shut all of them to climbing. But that's just my paranoia coming out!
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Forest
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Perhaps some climbers with the time should make an effort to get a seat on these boards?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Think there is an available seat on the Parks and Recreation Commission. However, I live in San Mateo County. We'd have to find someone in Santa Clara County. Sure would be nice if we had a trail runner and a road biker and a climber and maybe an equestrian sitting on the Commission. Someone who actively recreates in the great outdoors anyway.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 12:38am PT
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I will offer to sit, but it won't fly well.
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Srbphoto
climber
Kennewick wa
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Bruce,
As a former local, thanks for your hard work.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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You look like Da Man to shake up the Commission, Blue! A Repug-Libertarian type they will instantly hate! They need someone who talks back and causes trouble.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
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Hmmm....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
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It looks like I'm in District 4, under Ken Yeager.
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climbingcook
Trad climber
sf
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I love the idea of bluering sitting on the Parks and Rec commission. Unfortunately the commission would decide climbing should be off limits county-wide after hearing his take on the situation.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 01:49pm PT
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I love the idea of bluering sitting on the Parks and Rec commission. Unfortunately the commission would decide climbing should be off limits county-wide after hearing his take on the situation.
Maybe you can elaborate.
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Gerg
Boulder climber
Calgary
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My 8 year old son and I are coming to San Fran for a summer holiday, from Canada.
so without me reading every comment since 2008, is that nasty sounding Ranger still doing his thang at Castle Rock?! Is there any pointers you locals can give me?
We want to go to Goat Rock one afternoon also. Maybe to the rocks in Berkley as well.
Any Bay area bouldering info i should be aware of would be nice.
Is there any place to rent a pad, costs $40 each way to put on a plane.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 01:57pm PT
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Gerg, CRSP is fine. Have fun.
Miles Standish has retired.
It's pretty inexpensive to buy Bruce Morris' "A climber's guide to Skyline Blvd". It's a good guidebook. Buy it. Must have for the area.
http://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbers-Guide-Skyline-Boulevard/dp/0965023427
I can probably show you around too, if you'd like.
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Gerg
Boulder climber
Calgary
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ooh that is good to hear about buddy's retirement.
We are only visitng bouldering places between all the typical fun San Fran attractions for a boy and his dad...such a wonderful city.
i 'rented' a pad for a week off fellow supertaco member weschrist last year when I was in Cali. but I may contact you closer to ht emiddle of August about getting a tour maybe. Wanna go to Castle, Goat, and place north of the Golden Gate. I have the Bay area bouldering guide.
thanks.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 02:24pm PT
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Gerg, I don't own a pad but I could probably locate one locally for borrowing. The bouldering at CSRP is the main attraction. Don't rule out the Indian Rock and Nature Nazi areas across the street from CRSP. Good stuff for kids over there.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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That's what I think is especially odd. If the Peregrines are upset so much by the presence of climbers, why in the heck did they move into one of the most popular climbing areas (i.e. Summit Rock) in Santa Clara County? If the climbers were around there all the time that the birds moved in, it seems to me that they didn't have any problem with sharing the rock with climbers on routes to their left or right. So . . . why did they need to be protected by closing down the whole dang cliff?
What County Parks has in effect done by closing Summit Rock to climbing is to eliminate one half of the outdoor recreational climbing resources in Santa Clara County. When you speak to the Santa Clara County Board of Supervisors, Fat Rat, be sure to emphasize that point. The Birders on the Parks and Recreation Commission tried to treat Paul and myself as if we were "lone wolf" individual climbers rather than representatives of a national climbing advocacy group with thousands of members. They used that same insulting argument you hear from the Dean of Boys in High School where they are trying to classify you as someone who is going against or outside the "group". You know the talk: "You've got to understand there are other people besides yourselves in the world." You have to "think of others" (i.e. Birders I suppose). It's just not going to be a simple matter for them to shut down a valuable local crag that been climbed on for 70 years without the climbing community taking some action.
The tone all along has been patronizing and condescending. But the only appropriate way for us to react is by being polite and conciliatory.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 02:43pm PT
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The tone all along has been patronizing and condescending. But the only appropriate way for us to react is by being polite and conciliatory.
Everybody needs to behave rationally. But I ask you when you're dealing with irrational arguments and people, what then?
The rhetoric needs to be ratcheted up. This injustice will not stand. At some point we need to say, "this will not stand". We will not tolerate this.
Maybe I need to get on that board. I wonder how many of those there actually use the parks they govern over?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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We just have to have a hard scientific study that lends credence to our arguments for a seasonal closure of Summit. Otherwise, they're going to use the recommendations from State Fish and Wildlife that Summit should be closed indefinitely. You fight their irrational, emotionally driven arguments with facts. Democracy might work too. The Santa Clara County Board of Supervisors are elected officials who have to answer to their constituency, a large group of whom are climbers. Raging and screaming and posturing are a good way of letting off steam, but do nothing to change policy. I do know that Paul Minault was p.o.'ed that they treated all his well-thought out compromise proposals as nothing but the work of truants and anti-social rebels. Wait for the national Access Fund to give us a few pointers about what to do next.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Think you might find it buried in here, Blue:
http://www.sccvote.org/portal/site/parks/parkschp?path=%2Fv7%2FParks%20and%20Recreation%2C%20Department%20of%20%28DEP%29%2FGeneral%20Agency%20Information%2FParks%20and%20Recreation%20Commission
I do notice that the Commission's "mission statement" talks about promoting recreation not limiting or eliminating it:
"To act in an advisory capacity to the Board of Supervisors in promoting, aiding, encouraging and conducting public recreation, including the acquisition and development of recreation and park facilities and programs, and in the planning, maintenance, development and operation of all recreational areas and facilities owned, controlled or leased by the County."
Doesn't sound like the Commission ought to be shutting down Summit Rock to climbing, does it?
One thing I do notice at the Sanborn County Parks site is that although fishing, hiking and camping are all listed as official activities in the Park, there is not one mention of rock climbing or bouldering at Summit or Indian Rocks. Of course, County Parks is terribly afraid of liability for a climbing accident and therefore may be reluctant to mention rock climbing on their site for fear of being sued.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
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Thanks, Bruce, I'll look into it.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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We just have to have a hard scientific study that lends credence to our arguments for a seasonal closure of Summit.
It isn't science that's preventing a seasonal closure at Summit, it's politics - there is no science to support a year-round Peregrine closure.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 05:48pm PT
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healyje, we all know that. It's just moving forth that is in question. What to do?
When facts fail, what do you do?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Learn the people and politics - it clearly has nothing to do with Peregrines. Sounds more like a convenient excuse for controlling drunks and partiers to me.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2011 - 06:02pm PT
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You are probably correct, helayje.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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But as I pointed out at the meeting last Thursday, it's the climbers who actually chased the drunks and bottle breakers out of Summit. No one wants to be climbing and have a bottle dropped on their head. Since the closure, there's more broken glass on the ledges and more graffiti on the top of the rock. No one watches that place after hours. It's still a party hang. The Rangers all conceded this point.
I think the political angle comes from the splinter group of the local Audubon Society that has got three seats on the Commission. Also, the Rangers contacted some environmental zealots in State Fish and Wildlife who recommended a year-round closure. Now, County Parks may have found people who would endorse the recommendations they already wanted to implement (i.e. a year-round closure). Dunno. I also noticed that the Chair of Parks and Recreation endorsed bolt-chopping and that the lady Ph.D. regarded climbers as an outlaw, defiant, law-breaker group you can't really trust. Sounds to me like the closure was a product of a multitude of reasons emanating from a number of different groups involved in the issue.
They just didn't believe that climbers were organized enough to fight back and make counter-proposals. They thought they would walk right over us and we would obey like good little boys and girls. When we made legitimate, reasonable proposals of our own (i.e. a seasonal closure and sat-only climbing to give the birds a chance to react), they treated us with condescension if not outright contempt. How dare you contradict your betters! That lady merely said, "I have a Ph.D. in ecology" as if her merit badge settled the point then and there.
The Access Fund thought dealing with the Rangers and the Commissioners was no longer productive. I'm as interested as anyone else as to what the national Access Fund is going to recommend next. All I know is that I want to be awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor for going to that Peregrine working group RSVP meeting the week after oral surgery and a wisdom tooth extraction. Who knows? Maybe being punchy helped?
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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Cheers to you, Bruce, for doing all that!
If you think Ph.D.s and so on are useful to have at meetings, post up before the meetings. There are plenty of degreed climbers. Seems like this is a squeaky-wheel game.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Just Googled her & discovered that Ann Waltonsmith, a member of the Parks and Recreation Commission & one of our most determined adversaries, is also a current or former mayor of the city of Saratoga, which sits at the bottom of US 9 downhill from Summit Rock. It may be that Saratoga doesn't like the party-ers who congregate at Summit Rock. Rich folks in Saratoga who don't like riff-raff passing back and forth through their town?
Hard to say, but some of the members of the Park and Recreation Commission are appointed by the Santa Clara Board of Supervisors. Seems like County Parks is being pressured by a number of self-interest groups in the area to keep Summit closed. I know that Ann Waltonsmith's political program as mayor was keeping big city problems out of Saratoga by resisting attempts by the city of San Jose to bite off and assimilate into San Jose bits of Saratoga. She also worked to keep lot sizes large in Saratoga to retain the "character" of the city. Sounds like her program is basically, "Let's all work together to keep Saratoga filthy rich". To my tin ears, Ann certainly seemed to have mastered that obnoxious preppy richer-than-thou talk-down-to-you tone I've always found to be the mark of a true hypocrite.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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And by the way, this is the text of the letter the Access Fund placed on the record at the last meeting of the Santa Clara County Park and Recreation Commission. As you can see, Prof. Glen Stewart emphasized the fact that a year-round (as opposed to a seasonal) closure was exceptional and did not conform to standard practice at any other climbing area:
UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SANTA CRUZ
BERKELEY
DAVIS
IRVINE
LOS ANGELS
MERCED
RIVERSIDE
SAN DIEGO
SAN FRANCISCO
SANTA CRUZ, CA 95064
PREDATORY BIRD RESEARCH GROUP (SCPBRG)
LONG MARINE LAB
PH. (831) 459-2466 FAX. (831) 459-3115
14 March 29,2011
Metka Valh, Commissioner
Santa Clara County Parks and Recreation Department
298 Garden Hill Drive
Los Gatos, CA 95032
Dear Commissioner Valh,
I write to comment on the management and protection of peregrine falcons at Summit Rock Park.
The UC Santa Cruz Predatory Bird Research Group was founded 36 years ago to help address the population recovery goals identified in the Pacific States Peregrine Falcon Recovery Plan. We managed nests in the wild, hatched thin-shelled eggs at our facility, produced young in our breeding aviaries, fostered young into nests, and staffed release sites in California, Nevada, and Oregon. The population was reduced to two known pairs in California by 1970 and has recovered to an estimated 250 pairs today. The species has been removed from state and federal lists of endangered species.
The peregrine falcon remains fully protected in California, a distinction conferred upon thirteen avian species by the legislature, and is protected under the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. We continue to study the
Bay Area peregrine falcon population by documenting occupancy and productivity at selected nests and by banding a sample of nestlings-something I hope to do at Summit Rock this year.
The peregrine falcon is the most widely distributed bird on the planet occurring as a nesting species on every continent and most major land masses except Antarctica. It is highly migratory over much of its
range, however in much of California they are resident in the vicinity of their nesting territory year around.
Over the years, we have consulted with a number of agencies wishing to protect peregrine falcons in areas where other recreational occur, particularly climbing. Our consistent advice has been that climbing
during the non-nesting season, August Ist through December 31st is not a threat to the nesting birds. We are currently in touch with Jeff Cordes, wildlife biologist for the Hume Lake district of Sequoia National
Forest where peregrine falcons nest at popular climbing sites: Chimney Rock and The Monk. Mr. Cordes has had success closing the area to climbing during the nesting season or until it is confirmed that nesting
is not occurring.
In my experience, the climbing community has been a good partner in the protection of peregrine falcons and very respectful toward peregrine falcon nest sites by avoiding them during the nesting season.
Peregrines respond to the changing photo-period after winter Solstice and initiate courtship and breeding activities. When the young disperse in mid to late July territorial defensiveness completely disappears so that human intrusion into the nesting area is tolerated.
Santa Clara County Parks biologist, Don Rocha, was kind enough to guide me to the Summit Rock site because of my research interest in banding nestlings. He explained the problem with inappropriate behavior in the park and at the site of the peregrine falcon nest. Broken glass was evidence of the activity. I appreciate the enforcement
problem that the presence of the peregrine falcons creates in an area frequented by "partiers" and appreciate the efforts of Parks and Recreation to protect the peregrines. The trail from the parking lot creates a significant problem by leading park visitors directly to the place where they will cause the greatest disturbance in spring-the top of the nest cliff.
Thank you for your work to protect peregrine falcons. Please let me know if I may assist.
Glen Stewart
Director"
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 12:38pm PT
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Hey Bruce, what's the history of The Motherlode? FA party? What are the ratings? I know Chewy's Lookout is 5.10B, and it's a 'real' .10b! I got worked on it yesterday. My guidebook fell apart and I haven't replaced it yet.
Pearls Before Swine is in good shape too. Those last moves are rough.
Actually ran into 2 other parties out there, which is unusual. A 3rd party of hikers was looking for the 'waterfalls'. It's not running that much right now.
Nice area.
Also watched a dude take a nice whip on a cam out at Waterfall Wall (CRSP) on Saturday. Had a huge rapberry rash from the subsequent slide. He was pretty pumped after his piece held, haha!!! I think he was on Charlie's Solo (Anybody seen Charlie lately??). We suggested he get back on the horse and lead Degeneration, which he did, and was rightfully stoked!!!
Nice guys.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 11, 2011 - 02:53pm PT
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The late Bill Waggs did the FA of "Chewy's Lookout" (5.10b) maybe 10 or 12 years ago, naming it after his dog "Chewy". An ex-Marine, Bill worked and worked as a contractor around here to amass a retirement nest egg. When he got the loot, he moved to Arizona and promptly came down with cancer that took him rather quickly. Nice guy. Tragic ending at about 50 y.o.
Bill's friend Eddie Tharp did the FA of "Mother Lode" (5.11b) about the same time that Bill did "Chewy's Lookout" and used to lead it all the time before he moved up to the Gold Country about 10 years ago where he's still putting up routes near Consumes. After Bill passed, Eddie inherited Bill's dog Chewy.
There's also a 5.10d TR to the left of "Mother Lode" that anchors off that big tree on top. Nice at the bottom, sort of dirty finish.
So that's about all I know, Blue. I know that Eddie and those guys hand-drilled all the bolts there without using a Bosch or a Hilti.
Charlie Milligan is still around the Bay working as a tree surgeon. He and his wife have acquired some property up in back of Mariposa with some bouldering rocks scattered around his backyard. I think Josh Fengel works with him sometimes. I see Charlie out at the new Diamond Heights TR area between the Hostess and Last Temptation Cliff.
So there! I wrote you a book on the subject!
PS- I did "Pearls Before Swine" independent of the Mother Lode Gang. Sort of like a Valley face climb with mantles down low.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2011 - 03:07pm PT
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Cool, thanks Bruce.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2011 - 12:57am PT
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CRSP update;
Waterfall Wall was over-run by math nerds, and Kev was one of 'em!!!!
Some dude hiking took a skull-shot. A bleeder. He's gonna make it. I had a beer with him in the lot and he was clotting nicely. At the event we made sure he was coherent and talking. No concussion. No drama.
Good day climbing though!
Oh yeah, and one of my partners did some solo-laps next to a guided group at Goat. Haha!!! the comments were typical....
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Here's a copy of an email I received on September 6th from Paul Minault of the Access Fund that details the current state of the Summit Rock controversy. As you can read, there is going to be a petition circulated in the local climbing gyms:
All,
This will update you on efforts to open Summit Rock during the non-nesting season.
Bruce Morris and I attended two meetings with officials of Santa Clara County, first with the Recreation Commission and the second with the staff of the Dept. of Parks and Recreation. Without going into details, it became obvious that there was a strong bias on the part of staff and commission members to maintain the year-round closure despite our presentation of information showing that seasonal closures were the standard nationwide. It also appeared that the other obstacles to a seasonal closure were the support of the year-round closure by the raptor expert of the California Dept. of Fish and Game, and Fish and Game's recommendation that re-opening Summit with a seasonal closure would require further environmental studies.
Re-opening Summit will require bringing science to the decision-making process and bringing political pressure on county officials. As to science, I propose to bring Prof. Clayton White of Brigham Young Univ., a nationally-renowned peregrine expert, to see the site and discuss his observations and conclusions with county staff and commissioners. Planet Granite has tentatively offered to fund Prof. White's travel expenses (he has offered to work for free) and is seeking grass-roots climber support for this effort. I had hoped to bring Prof. White out this month, but PG's funding efforts will take longer than this to complete.
As to politics, the AF is circulating a petition to open Summit Rock and posting an action alert on its website asking climbers to write county officials to re-open Summit. To date, the local climbing community has been silent in response to the closure, which I believe has emboldened local officials to conclude they face no political consequences or exposure from maintaining the closure indefinitely.
Two other efforts may be needed to reopen Summit. The first is to secure Summit from continued partying and trashing by youths, and the AF grants program, as well as local climber stewardship efforts, may be able to assist in this effort. The second is to refute the need for further environmental studies with a legal analysis of the requirements of the California Environmental Quality Act. (In response to a letter from the County Counsel, I have already written county officials explaining that there are no legal barriers in federal, state or local law to opening Summit on a seasonal basis.) A further supporting effort is to demonstrate that climbing is a historic use of Summit Rock and that Summit played an important role in the early development of climbing in California, and that this historic use has to be considered in any management program for Summit.
In sum, I expect that it will take a concerted effort, and some time, to open Summit Rock, and that it will not happen without a vocal and persistent political effort by local peninsula climbers.
Please let me know if there are additional climbers who should be added to the list above.
Thanks, Paul
Paul Minault
Access Fund Regional Coordinator
for Northern California
Law Offices of Paul Minault
Land Use and Environmental Law
100 Montgomery Street, Suite 2290
San Francisco, CA 94104
(415) 397-6152
(415) 788-5768 (fax)
pminault@earthlink.net
As you can read, Paul notes that the local climbing community has remain silent on the subject of the Summit Rock blanket closure. Therefore, it would be a good idea to go to the Access Fund site and write to local officials asking that Summit be re-opened to climbing on a seasonal basis to allow for raptor nesting. Also, contact Paul about having your name added to the list of local climbers on the Summit Rock Access Fund Committee. Silence, in this case, is definitely not golden. See Access Fund web site:
http://status.accessfund.org/?q=Summit+Rock
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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I think we're screwed until those birds catch the f-ing plague and go die.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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One of the big problems is that local climbers have not inundated County Parks, SC Recreation and Parks Commission, and the SC County Board of Supervisors with letters demanding that Summit Rock and environs be re-opened to climbing. Until this year, everyone has been laying down and taking the shaft without one word of complaint. Prof. White is of course a strong ace to play. And a petition drive is about to start sending the politicos the message that voters don't like what's going on. Democracy does take time and patience and is not the easiest way of doing things. Now if I was the great dictator, Summit would be open in a minute. But then again!?
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noal elkins
climber
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A petition is a great idea especially if it can be circulated at Bay Area gyms. Castle Rock and Summit Rock seem to attract many beginner climbers from the gyms who are transitioning to the outdoors. I would venture to say that most of these folks do not follow this forum, have heard of the Access Fund, or have any idea of the closure. If there is a way I can volunteer or help out getting signatures at the gym I would be more than willing to offer my time.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Or encourage some of the hunters to , well, um,....
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murcy
Gym climber
sanfrancisco
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How about a simple name and email address for us to write to?
Thanks for all your efforts!
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Think relevant email addresses should be posted on the Access Fund site in the near future. The Re-open Summit Rock petition should be available in the lobbies of Planet Granite Belmont, Sunnyvale and San Francisco soon too.
It's also a good idea to keep in mind that the Audubon Society reads the stuff published on this forum. Talking about shooting birds is not a good way to win over their hearts and minds. Too many climbers, it seems to me, engage in anarchistic-libertarian rants and anti-authoritarian posturing without sitting down and writing a letter to the Santa Clara Board of Supervisors complaining about the Summit Rock closure. Come on gang! Sit down and write a letter of complaint to your elected representatives. They are acutely aware of the ire of potential voters. But if they don't know you're irritated by the actions of SC County Parks, they'll just assume things are hunky-dory up at Summit Rock.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2011 - 07:18pm PT
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Im climbing tomorrow or Monday or both! Who's in???
Cal Ridge and Mt Doom will be warm all day.
Fred, Cait, Fatty, Susan (is excused)....I'm heading up with Mishka, let's do it!
Or course, newcomers to the pack are welcome.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 31, 2011 - 08:47pm PT
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But can you raise a glass or bottle? If so, you're in good shape for tonight.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Dec 31, 2011 - 09:11pm PT
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Those gyms will kill ya, Sully! Daphne flailed me to within an inch of my life in one yesterday.
Here's raising a virtual glass of fizzy water to another 100+ outside day year in '12!
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Jingy
climber
Somewhere out there
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Dec 31, 2011 - 09:55pm PT
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Given the recent trolling…. I'm surprised shmooew is not tooled when visiting the local grocer
VVVVVVVV What act? VVVVVVVVVVV
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2011 - 10:39pm PT
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Jingy, you're act is getting really lame, bro....
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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it's going to be in the high 60's today at castle,i think going climbing at castle is need to bring in the new year, happy new year, happy climbing!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 08:34pm PT
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This weekend will be ripe. Anybody wanna go? Most of my usuals will be in the Valley, no doubt. Anybody wanna go?
I think the shady spots will even be fair game. It should be a warm and perfect day.
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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I'm planning on heading to Castle Friday (tomorrow) morning for a bit of bouldering. I'll have a harness if you are looking for someone to hold the rope. Come say hello if you are around Parking Lot rock or CR proper and see a mid 30s guy with no pad and an old pair of Mythos.
-Darren
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 09:17pm PT
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Sully, let me talk to Stacy and see what day works out for her and John. I'll be in touch here.
I'm working tomorrow dFinnecy, but otherwise I'd be game. Me and 'A farewell to arms' got a score to settle. I tried to onsight that rig on lead (on gear), but flailed at the crux. Looks doable but boy is it a sloper-fest at the crux!!!
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dfinnecy
Social climber
'stralia
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Might be able to make Saturday morning as well, I'll update here tomorrow when schedule becomes clear.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 09:34pm PT
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Sully, let's go Saturday. The Superbowl is Sunday and the guys I just talked to are football heads. The CANNOT miss it, an d I wanna see it too.
Anyway I just talked to Jeff (you met at my party) and he seems to be in for Saturday. He's going to try to contact Kenny and Clark (also at the party) to see if they wanna go.
My pregnant neighbor Wendy may also want to go. Let's do it! I'm thinking Mt Doom or the Platypus region. We'll call it on climbing day in the parking lot. Cal Ridge is always cool too.
Woot!
EDIT: Hey D, if you can make it Saturday, let me know what 'morning' means in terms of a time. I can get up there by 9am, but most of my crew is slow outta bed. But We can hook up with them later if you want an early start.
Keep me informed...
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michaeld
Sport climber
Sacramento
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My pregnant neighbor Wendy may also want to go.
I'm in.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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I'm in.
Well, apparently someone else was too. He'll probably come.
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damo62
Social climber
Brisbane
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He apparently did.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
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touche, damo!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2012 - 10:33pm PT
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You do realize that getting on the bike and riding off into the brush would have solved the problem. Right?
No fatboy earwipe will ever chase you into the desert on foot? If he does, circle back to his car and leave him flatfooted.
The goal here is to be cool with local LEO. At one. NOT to run from them.
I want to seek ways to get them to appreciate our diligence in park maintenance, not run from them when they question us.
I have nothing to hide. I maye smoke some tobacco pipe in the park occassionally, but that is the extent of my lawlessness.
The rangers should employ our resources to identify the real troublemakers. But they aren't that smart yet...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2012 - 12:07am PT
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11am tomorrow in the lot. I would meet you sooner and get some sh#t done but my buddy I have to pick up is in bad shape tonight. He'll be ready about 10ish. I will be in the lot at 11am.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
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Western Addition area...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2012 - 02:30pm PT
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There's a new Ranger in town. I will not mention his name.
I've already received one citation from him which I deserved and had no problem paying off ($200). This dude is probably the most hard-ass looking SOB you would dream of in a Ranger.
And yet, he's the nicest and most awesome Ranger I have ever encountered. He does his job well, issues tickets when he feels some tooling is required, but has a demeanor about him that too few Rangers have.
I watched him police an entire area with dogs included and all he did was talk to people. Very nicely, yet with the authority that comes with a uniform.
He looks mean. But he is also a climber and a very nice man. There was another occassion where he could have been justified in being a complete "Standish" as#@&%e with me, but he took me aside and talked to me and we parted ways friends once again. (The first time he cited me we were pretty cordial).
Anyway, there's a new breed of Ranger at CRSP. Let's all be cool to him, because he's been pretty cool to me.
Oh, and Sullly grew up with him when they were younger! Sullly, I told him about you just after you left when he came by my truck. He wanted to say Hi, but you had just left.
Cool guy.
It's funny because I feel like I let him down when he cited me and took me aside. He doesn't like tooling people, but he will do it if he has to.
The mark of a truly good LEO Ranger. I have a feeling he cruises this site too.
Cheers, dude! Keep up the good work.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 04:14pm PT
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Anybody wanna climb tomorrow???
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Feb 18, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
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Did you get a "beer in the lot" ticket, Blue?
:-(
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 04:43pm PT
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No, ironically, beer in the lot is cool. I was busted last year for tresspasing. Kinda weak, but it was very clearly marked.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 18, 2012 - 05:20pm PT
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Where did you "trespass" in Castle Rock State Park? X-mas Tree Farm? Or the dreaded "Valley of Stone" (aka Lion Caves)? Don't know many areas to trespass in at Castle Rock.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 18, 2012 - 07:20pm PT
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Bruce
Everything on the west side of Skyline outside of the extent of the loop trail plus the south side of the Falls, all the boulders around Castle Rock and Cal Cliffs is "wilderness zone" and off limits. Period. Plus Lion Caves, of course. It's clearly marked on the map posted at the parking lot. Also there are signs posted where you'd be likely to "wander" into the wilderness area.
bluering, I presume you mean Ranger Jason Rule.
A very decent guy but definitely don't get on his wrong side.
Remember these Rangers are the LEO up here and more than one of them has had armed run-ins with the tough guys at the illegal marijuana plantations.
To all CRSP climbing denizens: Jason will definitely bust you for flagrant violations. If you've committed a nuisance, and are polite to him, you might get off. He's definitely NOT out to get climbers or hikers. Mountain bikers, however, had best stay clear of CSRP as they are prohibited anywhere except the official parking lots. And they've become a real provocation to the Rangers by flagrant destruction of trails.
Notice to all: parking citations will ALWAYS be given where and when appropriate. The State Park system needs the revenue. You'd better be in your car with the engine running, lights on and in reverse by sunset.
When the Castle Rock area parking is full, you can park at Summit Rock, it's only a 15 minute walk along the trail back to CRSP but again, be out of there by sunset. Please take the trail, not the road, between CRSP and Summit Rock. There's been one pedestrian fatality I know of along Skyline in that stretch.
They appear to be slightly more lenient on closing the parking lot gate exactly at sunset but don't count on it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2012 - 08:14pm PT
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Bruce, regretfully, I'll admit to getting popped at Summit during the stupid bird closure.
I took my buddy's nephew up there to take in the view an try out my cross-country skis last winter.
We got popped for jumping a clearly marked gate. I'm a bit ashamed...I'm not a good example sometimes.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 19, 2012 - 12:37am PT
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Well, Summit isn't in CRSP anyway. It's in Sanborn-Skyline County Park (although the name may have been shortened to simply Sanborn County Park - not sure). So you got busted, Blue, by SC County Park Rangers, not State Park Rangers.
Actually, the status of trespassing violations in CRSP remains ambivalent. Sure, if you go out to the west of the Saratoga Gap trail with climbing gear and an intent to climb or develop new routes, you will be busted. However, the CRSP Master Plan clearly states that "free roaming" will not be curtailed within the confines of the San Lorenzo Nature Preserve. The Master Plan and its language was ratified in 2001.
What it gets down to is they'll bust a climber who is trespassing obviously to go climbing on rocks in the Nature Preserve. But they also have the option of ignoring some kid who's roaming through the bushes who knows nothing about the Nature Preserve or the penalties for trespassing there.
Don't know what the intent was of leaving the "free roaming" statement in the ratified Master Plan (or even if there was an intent). Just my take on it. The wording might have just been preserved in the Master Plan as an oversight or some heritage boilerplate.
And I believe mountain bikes are allowed on the dirt road leading in the back way to Saratoga Gap Campground. That is, they are "not prohibited". Think ROMP mentions that somewhere.
However, the so-called Lion Caves (aka 'Valley of Stone') climbing area was closed, according the language of the order, only "temporarily" in March 1997. This language is also preserved in the ratified CRSP Master Plan of 2001. That is, the closure of this area is specifically designated as a "temporary" closure that is going to be rescinded at some future point in time. When that's going to take place, of course, is anyone's guess. I do know that there were plans for building a trail through the area, as well as through the Underworld down to the San Lorenzo River watershed. However, again, as far as I know, none of these plans were ever implemented by the Trails Committee. In any case, it is possible to visit the Valley of Stone with a 'guide' if you receive written permission from the CRSP Parks Superintendent. Has anyone ever asked? It was rumored a few years ago that someone had sent him a written request, but never heard any feedback about it.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 24, 2012 - 01:24pm PT
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bump
Sure is going to be a nice weekend to enjoy CRSP (but not Summit Rock - at least not yet).
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2012 - 07:06pm PT
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I'll be up there. Prolly Saturday.
Anybody else?? Sullly?
Bruce where do you plan on climbing? Maybe I'll cruise by and say "hey".
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 25, 2012 - 12:18am PT
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All I know is that the two forensic formulae that apply to access at CRSP are "temporarily closed" and "unrestricted free roaming".
Maybe up at Castle with Dave Caunt, probably Sunday. Tomorrow I have a webinar to attend and moderate at noon, plus a miserable transcription contract of a talk on Cloud networking. Too many computer acronyms lead to complete mental meltdown! Time for a 24 oz. Lagunitas IPA!
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 25, 2012 - 02:27pm PT
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20 degrees colder up here today than yesterday
Forecast even cooler tomorrow.
So you got busted, Blue, by SC County Park Rangers, not State Park Rangers. Many (most? all?) State Park Rangers are deputized with full LEO roles/responsibilities on any public land. So you can be busted on any public property by State Park Rangers. They are a major component of The Law to those of us who live up here.
So, briefly, bluering could have been tooled by State Park or Santa Clara County Parks rangers at Summit Rock parking lot.
Actually, the status of trespassing violations in CRSP remains ambivalent..... However, the CRSP Master Plan clearly states that "free roaming" will not be curtailed within the confines of the San Lorenzo Nature Preserve. This is news to me. I'll look into the Park's current interpretation/policy on this. There is only one piece of private property between my place and CRSP so this is relevant to my particular situation.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Feb 25, 2012 - 07:28pm PT
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Yes, "free roaming" and "temporarily closed" are replicated in the final 2001 ratified version of the 200+ page CRSP Master Plan. How State Parks wants to interpret those forensic formulae is anyone's guess. Does State Parks even know those phrases are in there? I think someone complained at one of the public meetings soliciting input about the Master Plan that "free roaming" should not be restricted in the San Lorenzo Natural Preserve and that language got assimilated into the final version. The language of the March 1997 order closing the Lion Caves to public access "temporarily" got assimilated into the Master Plan almost word for word. It sounds as though State Parks wanted to leave the door open to modify the document in the future. But, as I speculated, the phrases might have been nothing but preserved boiler plate copied into the final document and then translated into an Adobe .pdf file.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 12:15am PT
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Hey Fred or Bruce, let's climb on Sunday. Sullly? Fatty? Anybody? Kev and I are all-in!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 21, 2012 - 04:46pm PT
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badda-bump!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2012 - 11:16pm PT
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Anybody going Sunday?
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yosemite 5.9
climber
santa cruz
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I voted against an annual car registration fee to pay for CA state parks just because I have had so many encounters with bullying state park rangers. If they don't want me there, I will go somewhere else where people are friendly. I guess the rangers don't need the job. They got what they deserved when California voters shot down the registration fee proposal.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Ranger warning:
The past 2 weekends, the Castle Rock AND Summit Rock parking areas have filled by about noon with all the roadside parking gone an hour or so later.
Rangers ARE ticketing any car parked illegally. Being right next to but beyond the allotted parking areas will get you ticketed!
So get there early if going on a weekend.
Optionally you can park at the 2 Sanborn Park turnouts on Skyline about 1 1/2 miles south of Castle Rock. It's about a 40 minute walk from the turnouts to the CRSP entrance along the Skyline Trail. Somewhat less to Lyme Disease rock.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Walk In Campground at Patridge Farm
You can see at the following link that an addendum to the Castle Rock General Plan of March 2000 authorized a new parking lot and walk-in campground to be built at Partridge Farm to the north of the main CRSP Parking Lot.
http://www.parks.ca.gov/?page_id=21313
What ever became of the project? A walk in campground where climbers and boulderers visiting from out of State or overseas could camp overnight seems like an excellent idea. I know the Sierra Club and a mysterious group called the 'Friends of Castle Rock State Park' filed suite with the State to authorize a environmental advisory committee to formulate an acceptable "carrying capacity" for the Park. Is that where the idea for a walk in campground died? I know a bobcat earth mover appeared in the Partridge Farm parking lot maybe 5 or 6 years ago and moved gravel around for while as if it was working on the preliminary construction for the walk in campground. Then, all activity stopped, the bobcat disappeared, and a couple of mounds of gravel are still sitting piled up in the old Partridge Farm parking lot in front of the Interpretive Shelter.
Always some mysterious background formatting going on up at CRSP. Is there a shadowy group of "disinterested" environmental scientists sitting on a Resource Advisory Committee coming up with a definition of what the acceptable "carrying capacity" of the Park should be? Check out the link to the Castle Rock General Plan Settlement of the Sierra Club et alia's law suite. Wonder if such an independent Resource Advisory Committee ever came into being? If so, what's their agenda; might it include limiting climber access to CRSP? Dunno!
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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best rangers in the world up there,
so kind and happy, always glad to see park users,
if i had a tazer, id tazer in the morning, id tazer in the evening, all over this land,
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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That's why the Rangers at CRSP are so "happy" as you put it, Sprock! They're being "tooled" themselves by a group of radical environmentalists who would like the Park to be part of a bio-corridor - a "people-free zone". Only the problem, as the shadow government perceives it, are those nasty climbers, who by wandering around the Park challenge that ideal state of affairs. I've always had a gut feeling that someone is giving orders up at Castle, but that someone isn't a State Park ranger. The Wizard of Oz behind the screen? Who exactly is Mr. Big?
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Tony Bird
climber
Northridge, CA
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i can't share your enthusiasm for the new breed of tool, bluey. they're a combination of good cop/bad cop rolled into one, and the element that's missing is public accountability. they're out there enforcing an increasing stricture of petty regulations--they think "very professionally"--regulations which have been developed in a vacuum to be force-fed to an increasingly cynical, bewildered and disaffected public.
"what have you given us?"
"a republic, ma'am--if you can keep it."
--exchange between ben franklin and a woman outside the hall in philadelphia
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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And yet . . . and yet . . . all those petty regulations developed in secret by shadowy third parties are not "laws" per se (although, in pinch, they are backed up by statutes in the California penal code). Still, it appears to me as if the rangers are not so much enforcing laws that are already in place, but making up and enforcing their own set of "laws" according to which way the political wind in blowing in and around the boundaries of Castle Rock State Park and, in fact, all along Skyline Boulevard. One begins to wonder who exactly are the members of the "Friends of Castle Rock State Park" and in what way are they connected with the Santa Clara Audubon Society, the Sierra Club, and of course the South Skyline Property Owners Association? Exactly who is sitting on the so-called Resource Advisory Committee (RAC)? Does such a committee of "disinterested" environmental scientists even exist? Is there some kind of overall policy being implemented to exclude climbers from the Park in order to reduce visitation within some kind of vaguely defined "carrying capacity"? Sure seems as though ranger hostility to climbers is a function of some kind of broader policy decisions made behind closed doors. As Castle Rock squirms!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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Hey, Dirt Claude is coming to town. We climb tomorrow, anybody else wanna go?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jun 24, 2012 - 02:15pm PT
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any cute asian chicks gonna be there?
what about BEER?
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jun 24, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
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Just ask the CRSP "Shadow Government", Sprock! They're the ones who establish and maintain "carrying capacity" quotas up there.
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jun 24, 2012 - 04:32pm PT
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i bet the confiscated gardening equipment is still down there by the green monster,
they were gonna chopper it out but too much wind, probably still there,
i see cartel people climbing at CRSP all the time, down there buy the waterfall, they wait til everybody leaves then slip back down to camp,
thank god for us climbers, otherwise the whole place would be like johnny's garden,
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jun 24, 2012 - 04:40pm PT
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Still there, Sprock? Bet I can haul it out and install it in a grow farm environment down by the creek in my backyard. Way easier to bust me than the Mexican drug cartels who operate with impunity throughout the hinterland in CRSP. The Rangers find it easier and safer to tag for out-of-bounds parking than to face a blazing AK-47 in the so-called eco-friendly nature preserve! Bet Ranger Jason Rule's 40cal pea-shooter doesn't stand a chance against a hail of teflon bullets!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2012 - 04:45pm PT
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Dude, I got Hueys on 'standby', but I need spotters and climbers. The beer-drinkers are all covered. I just may take him down to the Underworld. Watch for ticks at Mud Wall, I had some...
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Jun 24, 2012 - 04:53pm PT
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ticks are crazy up here too.
and we have a grasshopper infestation that looks like the locusts of south africa,
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 24, 2012 - 04:58pm PT
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Police yer legs while on patrol!!! Get 'em before they dig in!
I miss ya, Sprock. Gimme a shout when yer back in my perimeter.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 09:38pm PT
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Anybody gonna be up there on Sunday? I will.
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Dude, I'm there. 930, right?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 11:11pm PT
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Stay tuned, Michele, I'll call ya. But prolly around that time.
Or call me Saturday if I forget...Woo hoo!!!!
EDIT: Son of bitch! I called you Michele instead of Michelle! My bitch ex-wife was named Michele. Sorry!
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Cool, pm your number, I can't find it.
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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It's all good!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2013 - 11:51pm PT
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Better wear an ankle-brace, Kev has bold ambitions.
Wait till you see my new hair-do. Shocking!
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Oh Jesus, ill just suffer along like always. Oh no, is it.... Gone??
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2013 - 12:11am PT
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Yep, I chopped my hair!!!! I 'm weird now...
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Michelle
Social climber
Toshi's Station, picking up power converters.
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Oooohhhhh nooooooo!!!!! Wtf man?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 08:20pm PT
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Michele, we're going tomorrow. Check yer mail and call me, I lost yer number.
I'm doing taxes in the morning and will be there at noon. Woot!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2013 - 08:34pm PT
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We're going Saturday, somewhat early. Wanna go?
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Menlo Park
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Mar 23, 2014 - 06:05pm PT
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Well we didn't get tooled today , but several cars had tickets in the CR main parking lot . I took a peek at the ticket , $71 for not paying the parking fee , ouch !
Plenty of people out and about at CR today , many of the crags were occupied , Goat Rock was buzzing with climbing groups and Boy Scouts , here's a few pics ...
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Mar 23, 2014 - 07:57pm PT
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+++ WARNING --- Boring Public Service Announcement +++
I've mentioned this a few times but will again, especially for Castle Rock newbies or wannabes.
Castle Rock parking is strictly enforced.
Summary: if you park in the lot, pay or you'll be cited. As mentioned earlier.
You may park for free between the highway and the deep ditch just south of the entrance gate. They put out cones marking the ends of the parking area. Park outside the cones and you WILL be cited.
Ditto for across the highway at the Indian Rock parking.
Remember the highway parking rules are set by CalTrans, not state parks, but the CRSP or the Santa Clara County Parks rangers write the tickets.
There are many tempting turnouts on both sides of the highway in both directions which are clearly posted no parking. You WILL be cited.
There is a small parking area about 1/2 mile north on the east side of Skyline at Summit Rock. Same rules and warnings apply.
I'll add a safety warning. It is a heavily traveled state highway and people often drive 60 or faster. There is no real shoulder either side of Skyline between Summit Rock and Castle Rock. Be careful and stay out of the road if you're at your car.
I know of one pedestrian fatality in that stretch of road.
I STRONGLY suggest you take the trail on the east side of skyline between Summit Rock parking and Indian Rock/Castle Rock.
It's a very nice trail in the woods and only adds a few minutes. And you won't get run over.
There are additional parking areas on the east side of Skyline, south of Castle Rock. The nearest (and smallest) is about a mile from the CRSP entrance. There are larger ones at approx 1.7 and 2.0 miles. The trail on the east side of Skyline back to CRSP/Indian Rock is enjoyable and well maintained. Allow 30 - 40 minutes fast walking.
ALL parking is closed at all areas at sunset. This is clearly posted. Also, they lock the Castle Rock gate shortly after sunset. You may infer the obvious.
All trails are closed at sunset.
No, they don't usually lock the gate and start ticketing right at sunset but don't push your luck. They won't come looking for you on the trails after dark.
The ditch along the highway just south of the Castle Rock parking gate entraps quite a few cars. Especially in wet weather. Be careful you don't let your wheels get too close to the ditch. I'm sure its a very expensive call for a tow truck.
Smoking and alcohol are prohibited in both parks. Even in the parking lots. The CRSP ranger clarified this at a local meeting yesterday. A beer at the tailgate after a day's climbing is not a good idea. It's even prima facie evidence of drunk driving if you then get behind the wheel.
No glass containers of any sort are allowed in the parks (outside of formal picnic areas). This is to protect people and the natural residents.
Contrary to popular belief the current rangers are not neo-Nazis. If they tell you you're violating a law, be polite, comply and you're not likely to get into trouble. And no, they're not Out To Get Climbers.
The rangers are The Law up here along Skyline. All "Rangers" in California (including USFS and National Parks) are police officers.
They will deal with and are authorized to cite or arrest for any crime they encounter.
And one final note: There are now official State Parks volunteers on the trails in all the local state parks. They are there to help all visitors enjoy the park. They are to be informative and helpful to all visitors. They are well trained and should politely inform people if they are violating the few park rules. They have no authority to cite but they can report. Be courteous to them.
Summit Rock closure: Summit Rock is not open for general access. You need to apply for a "permit" in advance. There are several good reasons for this and I won't argue the point. You can get a permit by calling 408-355-2201 at Santa Clara County Parks.
SuperTopo Summit Rock access thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2194690&tn=20
(why am I bothering with this?)
As many of you know, I live in the neighborhood and I don't like to hear about climbers being cited.
I want us all to have good times in these mountains.
P.S. on a largely selfish note:
It has been a Very Dry 2 years up here. Barring heavy storms, in a few weeks it will be high and then extreme fire danger. PLEASE don't smoke outside your car, if you camp in the campgrounds be Very Careful with your fire (if allowed) and report any sign of smoke to 911.
And if you're away from people and very lucky you just might see Felis Concolor or Peregrine Falcons.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2015 - 09:47pm PT
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I'll finally be out there again tomorrow. Early.
Lyme Disease Rock, Indian, Cal Ridge, The Platypus, or....Mt Doom.
Itching for sandstone smears.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Oct 10, 2015 - 10:07pm PT
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Invite Sprock to join you ("why, are you coming apart?")
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2015 - 10:08pm PT
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The late Bill Waggs did the FA of "Chewy's Lookout" (5.10b) maybe 10 or 12 years ago, naming it after his dog "Chewy". An ex-Marine, Bill worked and worked as a contractor around here to amass a retirement nest egg. When he got the loot, he moved to Arizona and promptly came down with cancer that took him rather quickly. Nice guy. Tragic ending at about 50 y.o.
Bill's friend Eddie Tharp did the FA of "Mother Lode" (5.11b) about the same time that Bill did "Chewy's Lookout" and used to lead it all the time before he moved up to the Gold Country about 10 years ago where he's still putting up routes near Consumes. After Bill passed, Eddie inherited Bill's dog Chewy.
There's also a 5.10d TR to the left of "Mother Lode" that anchors off that big tree on top. Nice at the bottom, sort of dirty finish.
So that's about all I know, Blue. I know that Eddie and those guys hand-drilled all the bolts there without using a Bosch or a Hilti.
Charlie Milligan is still around the Bay working as a tree surgeon. He and his wife have acquired some property up in back of Mariposa with some bouldering rocks scattered around his backyard. I think Josh Fengel works with him sometimes. I see Charlie out at the new Diamond Heights TR area between the Hostess and Last Temptation Cliff.
So there! I wrote you a book on the subject!
PS- I did "Pearls Before Swine" independent of the Mother Lode Gang. Sort of like a Valley face climb with mantles down low.
Bruce Morris' beta on Aquarian Valley and Devil's Canyon is priceless. Almost as good as the quality of climbing there, the best on Skyline Blvd (Hwy 35).
He should write a guidebook.....oh, yeah....
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
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Dr Sprock is in limbo, man. Lost the connection.
Sux.
Prolly be in the perimeter around 9ish.
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cleo
Social climber
wherever you go, there you are
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Oct 11, 2015 - 11:00am PT
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Contrary to popular belief the current rangers are not neo-Nazis.
Are there new Rangers, then? Don't mind the rules so much, did mind the scary, threatening behavior...
Edit: the scary, threatening ranger was J. Rule. It happened 6-7 years ago and still stands out in my mind as the scariest encounter with an LEO I've ever had.
3 women and a baby. Walking out, no lights (because it was still light out), under canopy, just arrived in parking lot. J. Rule was screaming at us and threatening jailtime. I'm not kidding - jailtime... for being in the parking lot a few minutes after actual sunset.
That was my very first visit to CR.
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Lurkingtard
climber
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Oct 11, 2015 - 11:08am PT
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Lol.
"Hey guys, over here" bump.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Oct 11, 2015 - 02:15pm PT
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FYI: State Parks Ranger Jason Rule has been transferred out of Castle Rock State Park:
"Goodbye Jason"
"Jason Rule, the longtime Park Ranger at Castle Rock and Portola Redwoods State Parks is moving on. Jason has been a champion of the parks since he started in 2004. During his term, he has seen many changes in the parks and the State Park system including the sever budget cuts that almost closed his two parks. Jason was instrumental in working with the Portola and Castle Rock Foundation to start the now-robust program of volunteers who augment the rangers with trained “boots-on-the- ground” hikers in both parks. We wish Jason the best as in his new position with the San Luis Obisbo CA Park district. He will be missed.
To learn more about Jason, click here to read PCRF Director Barbara Harriman’s interview with Jason."
Since the click doesn't seem to work, here's a transcription of the pdf orginal:
"The Portola and Castle Rock Foundation wants to thank Jason Rule for his 11 years of service in the
Santa Cruz District of the CA State Parks Department as he ventures off to a new experience in the San
Luis Obispo District of California Parks!
When asked about his transfer, Jason said it comes with both excitement and sadness. "There's a
heaviness leaving this area - the community has been great to be a part of. Leaving friends and
colleagues that I love and respect is difficult. Yet, I'm looking forward to moving on and working with a
new crew. I even bought a house, which I could not afford to do in the Bay area. II
Jason applied to become a park ranger back in 2001. In November 2003 he received his invitation to a 27
week academy resulting in a Park Ranger position in Santa Cruz District of the California State Parks and
Recreation Department. Over the years Jason has since patrolled Castle Rock, Portola Redwoods, and
Big Basin.
I asked Jason what education and training is required to become a ranger. He said that the requirement
is 60 college units, but that being said better than 80% of the rangers have college degrees. Jason was a
biological science graduate.
So what does Jason love most, and find most challenging, about his job? He said the two are the same.
"The diversity of the job is the best part and most challenging part of my job." When on duty, Jason
has the responsibility of patrolling the parks, collecting and depositing fees, answering the phones, and
interacting with the public to give them direction and answer their questions. Quite often Jason is called
to assist when there's an accident on Route 9 or 35. "Every day is unique. The hours can be grueling,
sometimes working 15 to 24 hours when the need arose." When a storm brought down power lines and
trees all over Skyline and Route 9, Jason had the responsibility to inform residences and help them
navigate the area where the roads were open. Jason said the peanut butter and jelly sandwich provided
that day by our Cal Fire team was one of the best sandwiches he's ever tasted.
When asked about the greatest changes he has seen in the park system, Jason replied "Budgetary cuts
from the State level have led to difficult outcomes in the field. I even received a couple of IOUs from the
State. Getting positions filled once available became difficult. The Parks Department doesn't have
budget minimums like schools and prisons and it's difficult to communicate how much is needed to run
a park. During the recession all the State Departments were fighting for a piece of the budget. That's
when they were slating both Portola and Castle Rock State Parks to be shut down. We're still dealing
with these mandatory reductions set by the State. II
One of the bigger operations Jason has been involved with was working on the coast on the 4th of July.
Pre-2008 the rangers would be on the sidelines ready to respond to emergencies. Since then they have
taken a substantially greater role in providing a safe environment. It has gone from chaos and danger to
family friendly and a good time for all
Off duty, one of Jason's favorite events is to visit his sister's 2nd grade classrooms at Orchard Elementary
in Modesto. Jason knows that many of these children have never had the opportunity to go camping.
Jason gives an hour talk using a slide projector (which fascinates the children). He embellishes his talk
with animal skins and skulls. The kids are thrilled to see Jason in his uniform and hear his stories. He is
touching their hearts and imaginations."
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2015 - 10:53am PT
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He was an as#@&%e, J. Rule. And I always give LEO and Rangers nothing but respect. They are the LAW in the park, you'd be a f*#king idiot to not take them seriously.
Some people just abuse their authority, they forget what they're there for.
Platypus and Shady Rock were outstanding as usual yesterday. I'm worn down after doing Plat-a-pussy and the mantle on Slot Nose. I need to get back after it, been taking it lite lately...
My son John got some awesome cave bouldering in though with the guidance of PhotoEz. Ez is bailing to New Hampshire to literally start a new life and family. That kicks a$$$$$$$
I'll miss him. Good climbing partner. (See my Wamello Dome TR).
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reach
Trad climber
Brisbane, CA
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Oct 12, 2015 - 03:54pm PT
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Some people just abuse their authority, they forget what they're there for.
One weekend morning I was driving up HWY 9 to CR. It was early as we were trying to beat the crowds. I was doing the speed limit or a little over; essentially normal driving. Then a ranger truck fast approaches from behind, tailgates me for a number of the sharp turns, then passes me going up hill in a no passing zone. He must have gotten stuck behind another "slow vehicle" on the way to the parking lot because when I parked he was just getting out of his truck with his coffee cup in hand.
Seeing that he was not really hurrying for anything important, I said "Good thing you passed me." in a sarcastic, passive aggressive, you're a dick kinda way. He made eye contact and did not saying anything. Reading these comments makes me glad I did not push my luck any further.
My default is to completely respect these guys, for sure. Don't get me wrong.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
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I need a freakin' belay!!! Who wants to climb this weekend?
I can go anytime really, but the mornings are better for parking and getting on route before the freakin' guides show up!
Let's do it! Don't make me go out and try to figure out how to solo-climb and figure out all the rigging.
C'mon!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 06:26pm PT
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Yeah, Cosmic, me too. I could camp on ledges with you and have a blast.
Does that sound gay-ish?
F*#k, I think I'm gonna have to figure out this rope-solo thing. All my partners have bailed. I must be a dick or something.
So be it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 07:44pm PT
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I'll use my mini-trax for ya, Dwain! So smooth in the backyard, and bites the rope hard when tensioned!
I think me and John will roll out early and set up on something simple, maybe Henry and Otis so I can place gear and get some jams. I could prolly walk away from decking out if 'all else fails'. Maybe hit Last Tempatation after that.
Monkey Brains or something is out right, on the face past 'Charlie's Angel'. Gnarly 10b or something that is very real. I wanna stick that f*#ker. Been a thorn for a while.
I usually cruise 10b faces with minor degrees of trepedation. This one is weird for some reason.
It must be done, I have a new project!!!
Everyone bails on this rig to right, into an o/W chimney thing. Off-route!!!!
I wanna stick this thing. It's only f*#king 5.10b....or something like that.
What's super-awesome is that I can mini-trax this thing. Good fixed lead bolts and top anchors. Base has solid anchors.
I'll attach pics to this project.
EDIT: I may be thinking of "I Go I Know Not Whither". Good stuff. I know the route when I see it.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 09:47pm PT
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I'll have John get some pics, Dwain. Stacy is a little sketched, but we'll be fine.
I may downgrade to Stevens Canyon Boulder for a trial run. It's all good though.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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A lot of people get tooled at Castle Rock...."Athlete's Feat" is pretty stiff for 11a and By Gully kicks a lot of ass for it's grade.You're especially vulnerable if you think the soft ratings on the sport climbs in Boulder Canyon are representative. After you get tooled have a beer at the Hungry Toad, a really neat British style pub in Boulder.
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Umph slot is piss easy especially since it ain't even on "Castle Rock" .
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Must be getting old Steve, I mean't By Gully.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Lots of Castle Rocks out there...
... Cali Colo WA what ever...
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2016 - 10:21pm PT
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Yeah, I'm just sitting here listening to it all. It's all good.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 08:46am PT
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Back at ya, Todd!
never made it CR this weekend, yet. Fishing is getting in the way.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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If you do go up to CR, at least Ranger J. Rule won't be around to pull a gun on you for after hours parking.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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I'm gonna set up a min-trax rig on Degeneration and Putrefaction in about an hour.
I gotta figure out this solo-sh#t. Woot! Be back
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
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Had the place to myself, which is weird. But it's Tuesday.
The rig works alright but I wasn't happy with my anchor. It was solid, but I need to work on that.
I was just gonna rig a single line to trax on but ended up rapping in on 2 lines. Fixed one to a tree.
Works pretty well.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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Look out, ze Germans are back!
My old buddy is back from Germany for good this time, physics PhD in hand. Whatever that means...
I have one of my fav climbing partners back. Weird sh#t too. I was running dry.
Be out at Stevens Canyon tommorow morning at 8:30am. I may talk him into skipping that and heading for CRSP. We have some history there. F*#ker has 2 kids now too!!!
Good times ahead!!!!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
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We're back in business! He's been over in Germany for about 6-8 years so we have much catching up to do.
He asked if we still go down to Jtree every thanksgiving for a week of climbing madness. He was usually the rope-gun.
That stopped a few years ago but appears to be ready to go again. He brings a spirit with him that has been much needed around here.
Serendipity.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 16, 2016 - 11:18am PT
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Haven't climbed at Castle Rock proper in the park, usually too many people. May give it a go tomorrow morning. Does anyone know if 'A Farewell To Arms' has good top anchors on it other than the weird pole at the top?
I almost nailed this rig a few years ago on gear, but flailed at the awkward crux. The bottom pumps yer arms good (overhanging), you have to preserve a bit for the crux. Kind of pulling over a slabby roof with shitty hand/feet above the gear.
But the gear is like 4 feet below, so...just do it!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
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Here's Summit Rock, where we had to park because CSRSP was blown totally out. FUll.
And ze Nature Nazi Boulders!!! Johnson!
We nailed those.
Radical day. The rangers now at CRSP are super cool, let me hang out for 15 minutes in the lot while I waited for my Homie. No Charge!
Very nice people, the rangers there, the ones today.
Lot was ultra-packed. We bailed, went to Summit and hiked in to the Nature Nazis.
2-3 other groups there. Good times. Rad day. The kids had a blast!!!
EDIT: that one Christian is looking at is my new fav. You can't use that big right arete, All FACE. Super hard 5.10d start, I'd say. Friction 5.10d feet.
Good stuff all arounf though. What's weird to watch is people with guidebooks in hands asking 'is this the right problem'.
Ya gotta have vision,man. When you see rocks,you assault them. Or Ascend them.
I can make a problem anywhere, and I don't even need rocks. BUt people are weird.
Have fun. Don't look at grades, just go and have fun. Climb what you can, and then go a bit further.
Good f*#king times, my friends.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 17, 2016 - 05:56pm PT
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Glad you're out climbing....soothes the soul.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Jul 17, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
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oh look he almost got through a post without using the word f*#
an example of the usual
Have a good one brother! 50 is nothing. Look at that a-hole Donini!!!! hehe, that was a joke, kinda.
Doug, you're a solid individual. Goes without saying I'd put my life yer hands any day of the f*#king week, anyday.
Even when I drive you and Pennslynvy to the base of your route, and look after your dog with Happiegirls's help. I only bring that up it cause it was the only time I met ya.
Summit was a f*#king great dog too. Wild and happy!
Have a good one bro. You deserve it, you youngster (I'm only 48 in Oct). So if it makes you feel good, you make me feel young.
Anybody who loves their animals/pets the way you did is 100% solid in my book. Enough with the credentials.
Have a great birthday, dude. Tell Tom and Pennsylenvy I said hi as well. I miss those 2 guys.
Happy Birthday, Doug. God bless you in your travels.
EDIT: I just noticed that Aya posted this. WTF??? Where the f*#k has she been? Nice, I remember when she shattered her ankle and was sucking Maker Mark. (my inner lush always remembers the alcohol, good choice of Kentucky Straight's tooo!
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2016 - 06:22pm PT
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Yeah, Jim. I know.
The problem is the DARN KIDS! My climbing outlook changed a lot. I'm a guide now for my family. Not the rogue I used to be.
That does not mean I don't still get after it. I just do it at a different angle now.
And it is funner than I've ever done it. Not pushing grades, just going for fun for everyone.
Pushing grades is still cool though. The boulder prollems were abundant today.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 04:34pm PT
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Man, CRSP is just getting un-fun nowadays. There a re tons of people everywhere! All times of day!
I got up there at 8:30 this morning and the lots were shy about 5 cars short of being full already.
Don't get me started on the REI guides. They already had ropes on 2 popular routes (Indian Rock 5.8 and 5.10a faces) as they waited for clients in the lot. Can I drop those ropes if I want to climb the route and nobody is around? Ethics?
The Outdoor Adventure guides are a bit cooler, but they trail a horde with them and always suck up certain routes for a while.
I don't mind seeing people get out, but I'd like to get out too! I kinda feel like I should get a special spot, but that would be selfish and elitist.
With Adven Out and REI guides in the area we knew Indian and Waterfall Routes would be clustershtoops. We went Indian side of the Road and confirmed that the guides had consumed the whole frontal face of Indian.
We bailed to Lyme Disease Rock. (Side-note, one of my old partners from 6 years ago confirms he's got Lyme, prolly for years, he's being treated).
My buddy's wife wanted 5.9's and 5.10's, hence the Waterfall area, but alas we had to settle on LD Rock. One 5.7, and a handful of stupendous 5.10's. Multiples around the 5.10b range. Perfect!
Windy, early start was hard to get motivated. But after cranking the 5.7 roof moves I was warmed up. I was totally unmotivated after seeing what I saw though. I was mind-set on a certain area and just was mind-f*#ked the rest of the day. WE also are bidding on houses right in a wild market, so I was just happy to be out.
Buddy's wife nailed the 5.7 roof problem and another one I flailed on, a 5.10a. Her hubby has an ape-index off the charts and flashed a 5.10d on sight (on a TR, but still...).
The kicker is we had my kid and their 2 kids the whole time. And it was a great day. I'm not sure if I'm hopeful or saddened by the fact that just as we were bailing a three-some of young dudes approached scouting routes.
Never happens at my hidden crag. Almost never. We pulled our ropes and gave them some tips on the grades (they had no book), and funky anchors. Nice guys. And good times as usual.
EDIT: Lyme Disease Rock is an easy hike from Indian Rock and a good option when Indian is overloaded with ropes. Out of the parking lot head right on the trail away from Indian Rock. The are 3 options. Go left to Indian, go straight to bouldering and skirt Indian, or go right on the Skyline Trail (towards Lyme Disease Rock). You'll see LD ROCK as you approach it on the left, down-trail. It's the first obvious climbing rock you'll come to. Walk up to the top from the trail. You'll see the anchors out on top of the extended ledge. There are at least 4 sets of anchors. And almost every climb is lead-able on bolts. No pro required.
Some of the anchors need work. I know one of the rangers of that side of the road (Mid-Peninsula Open Space?), I think his name is Violllet or something. Really cool guy who'd be happy to know I don't haul beer out there anymore! He used to bust me for that.
I'll ask him if we can do some anchor work out there with drills. Just re-set the old anchors. The lead-bolts are pretty solid.
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barry ohm
Trad climber
escondido, ca
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Jul 31, 2016 - 09:00pm PT
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I wa at Lyme disease rock weneseday afternoon,Left a small Cairn to Honor Coz.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 31, 2016 - 09:11pm PT
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Good on ya, Barry! I like that place. A lot of great climbs in a nice discreet area.
It's one of Skyline's little gems. I see a lot more hikers and dirt-bike riders now though. Used to see nobody out there.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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Another great day! Indian Rock is still awesome if you get there at 8:30am.
Geez, there are are a lot of people there now. Get there early, before 9am. Climbed next to some young-uns. Must have been high-school kids. Fun stuff watching them.
Woot!
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Bruce Morris
Trad climber
Belmont, California
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Aug 22, 2016 - 12:08pm PT
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Geez, there are are a lot of people there now.
Go there at mid-week in October. That's the best time at Castle anyway. After work while PDT is still in effect makes real sense too. The weekends are a no-no. I don't think it's entirely my fault though; there have to be 4 or 5 guidebooks now that describe the climbing and bouldering at CRSP.
When I move to Oakhurst or Ahwahnee, I bet I'll be able to finally avoid the Bay Area crowds, but by then I'll be too aged to walk anywhere . . .
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portent
Social climber
your mom's house
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Aug 22, 2016 - 05:41pm PT
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Went this weekend. I couldn't believe how many people were there. They were all nice though as I accosted them with small talk! Got in some good climbing and good hanging (a little bit of that on the rope)
Stopped and chatted with the rangers at the gate and they were cool as hell. Felt a lot friendlier than it did when I left the Bay Area 6 years ago.
Were you there this weekend Bluey? Shitty I missed you.
Kovar
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 22, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
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Seth? That you?
Yeah I was at Indian Rock yesterday, backside with my German buddy and his kids. We were there at 9am, I bailed around noon. Another German buddy showed up too.
My buddy nailed Krokus on lead. Nasty fall if you miss the 2nd clip! He pro'd it with a cam.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Aug 25, 2016 - 06:17pm PT
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Castle Rock parking is only getting worse now that Sempervirens Fund are promoting the park.
Weekends both sides of Skyline are full from the summit down to Summit Rock parking.
There is limited parking alongside Skyline well beyond the entrance both directions.
Do not park where it says no parking. You WILL be ticketed, weekend or weekdays.
People have been killed by autos when walking along the roadside very near the main entrance. A young neighbor of mine (a very sober young woman) was the driver in a fatal daytime accident. I strongly suggest walking the trail instead.
There's an excellent trail on the East side of Skyline from Saratoga Gap (hwy 9 junction) south to approximately milepost 9.5. The trail takes you past Lyme Disease Rock if coming from the south. There are also several great bouldering rocks off in the woods along the way.
I strongly suggest taking the trail from wherever you park, most especially from Summit Rock parking.
The trail is longer, beautiful and in a couple of places you can walk up to knolls with grand views.
The road is shorter, but heavily trafficked and dangerous.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Feb 15, 2017 - 10:48am PT
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Castle Rock status:
Skyline Blvd (Hwy 35) completely severed just south of the Castle Rock summit.
You COULD park 1 1/2 miles south at the road closure but please don't. This will stuff up the roadsides which is the only access for 150 residences. We have several elderly people up here with compromised health and many small children. If emergency traffic (CalTrans, ambulance, fire, sheriff, etc) couldn't get through it could quickly become a very serious situation). Besides it's a 4 mile walk to Castle Rock from there.
Also the only access from the south is Black Road which has its own integrity problems and with Skyline cut we really can't afford to have that closed again. The extension of Skyline south of Black Road is also very hazardous right now and not a reliable route.
So PLEASE park on the Hwy 9 side at Castle Rock/Summit Rock, roadside turnouts etc where you usually park. 9 opened yesterday. Page Mill was never closed.
It's a short walk from Castle Rock to where Skyline has disappeared if you want to see The Void.
By the way the rock is saturated and much more friable than usual. The waterfalls and creeks are raging. Sanborn Creek is a raging torrent. There's water running in places I didn't know there are places. Enjoy the hiking.
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