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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
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Cretin Bulldancer is a good one
"What's that thing to the right of Sexy Grandma? Orphin perhaps?"
Yes the Orphan, good and stretchy on the legs and hips
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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Tumbling Rainbow is in a dihedral, right?
;-)
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rbob
climber
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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+1 for Natural Selection in the Fortress... a bit easier than C&B, but a lot longer.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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I would agree with Largo that Hercules is 5.12 but there really isn't any stemming on the route. You can jam the whole thing or jam for a while and then kick into a lieback on the top half, or just for kicks you can lie back the entire route (much harder but fun on tr).
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adam d
climber
Los Osos, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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RBob, just realized who you are since I took those pics and was tied in on the other end of the rope.
Lots of fun. The little roof is not the crux, actually sinker fingers through there.
A great long, interesting pitch.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
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Upthread someone mentioned Snake Book, up at Emerald City. This is a good one for a chilly day, the hike up there will warm you up and the climb is S facing and sheltered from northerly winds.
While you are up there do The Rattler as well. The lower section is kind of like a dihedral but different...
Higher up it turns into a nice .10+ wide crack.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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Coarse and Buggy...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
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C+B is not just a great stemmer but my favorite pitch at Josh.
Ditto for a bunch of other stemmers mentioned.
29 Palms classic
Rockwork Orange, back and foot
Hidden Arch, hard to protect in the old days before small cams
Warrior Eagle, never had pins and was well worth the walk.
The Condor, I put a couple pins in at the bottom for the FA and couldn't imagine doing it without them. Now I can't even imagine doing it on a TR.
Josh Dihedrals are the scheisse.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Tumbling Rainbow, 5.9...
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Snake book is a stellar sub tips stemming corner on that perfect dark varnish!
That Rattler is great too, although not a stemming corner. A giveaway at the guidebook 11a. I'd say closer to .10c.
I was headed into the park last winter, when I picked up a hitch hiking Dick Cilley. I told him I was on my way to try the Scary Monsters. he looks me up and down, and in a slow drawl just says "You'll neeever do it."
he was right!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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I'll never forget the day I did Warrior Eagle. Sutton and I were planning to do The Mohawk, and I guess Yaniro told Steve we should do Warrior Eagle first. So we went out there - Steve knew where it was - with Dr. Yoho and Rondo along as well, which gauranteed an entertaining outing. I went first and flashed. Then I cleaned the gear and pulled the cord and Steve led it nicely. We figured we were ready for Mohawk and made plans, but in the meantime Steve got hurt jumping and we never got back to do it.
I did Condor around the same time with no pins. I thought it protected reasonably well with thin wires, but The Eagle had better pro. I do remeber being very happy to get a decent sized cam up high on Condor. Whew!
I though at the time that both of those corners were about the same for difficulty. About 12a. Condor perhaps a bit more dangerous, Eagle perhaps a bit more demanding.
Congrats on a brilliant F/A on Condor!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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The Dolphin, 5.7...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:57pm PT
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The Orphan, 5.9...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
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Snake Book...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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Natural Selection, 5.10d...
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 25, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
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Kris-
Is that photo of Warrior Eagle after the crux?? Its wierd, it just doesn't look like the route. It has that wave on the right wall, the crux. There is a large section of the dihedral that broke out of the corner, right above the wave. A good nut went in the bottom of that, then a small cam 18" higher in the top. All small nuts and brass from there for a ways... Much harder than Scary Monsters and 29 Palms. Hope to go back sometime soon..
EDIT::
Ohhh, I think you are standing at the crux, the piece of stone right in your face is gone now, there is a flare about 2' tall right where you are placing gear. I see now you are right at the crux, its just hard to tell how that right wall does the bulgy wave in that photo.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Mar 25, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
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What about The Condor (5.12a)? Looks fantastic!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 25, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
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The condor is superb. No fixed pins though and it would be nearly impossible with brass. It would be a solo for 20 feet to marginal gear. I put a TR on it in December, it was great! Almost went to the car for pins and a hammer to do it on lead with them... Tempting and could be done...
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Feb 17, 2016 - 08:14pm PT
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Warrior Eagle is an absolutely classic stemming corner. I made two trips out to The Castle this weekend with my buddy Friend. It features tenuous and sustained stemming with a crux bulge. The hard climbing is protected entirely by RPs and #3 and smaller BD stoppers. As a bonus you get to "warmup" on Knight in Shining Armor, an awesome 5.11 finger crack. My partner for Warrior Eagle also followed me on 29 Palms two months ago, another difficult and awesome dihedral mentioned many times in this thread. He thought 29 was harder. I'm not sure, but certainly think 11d is a major sandbag for 29 Palms.
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