Discussion Topic |
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chossyslab
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 3, 2008 - 02:59pm PT
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Looking for some nice, clean, sustained large dihedrals out in Joshua Tree in the 5.10 and 5.11 range. Any suggestions?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Course and Buggy...Never tried it, but it looks brillian from the road.
Touch and Go (start).
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Darren D.
Social climber
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Course and Buggy...look no further.
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jewedlaw
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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pictures, guys! pictures!
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Hercules looks to be interesting. 11a I think, Lost Horse.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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yeah, coarse & buggy. hyperion is killer. 29 palms is really cool, although it eases off dramatically after the opening steep. scary monsters is an awesome but short dihedral. you could also do banana cracks on the way, although the crux on the right one is not in the open book. pat adams dihedral-- c&b is the easiest of this bunch.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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spiderline...
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HJ
climber
Bozeman, Montana
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rockwork orange
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Yeah, C&B, + Spiderline, others availible, nothing else needed, you Will drive home happy.
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chossyslab
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2008 - 07:29pm PT
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i climbed course and buggy recently so i'm looking for others. A superb climb, one of the best ive done in the monument. if the thin dihedral went for the whole climb it would be absolutely incredible.
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Just my opinion...
Hyperion is overrated (in stars). First third is pretty chossy, right up to the crux (had to take a second trip back to pass that, still with a fall, it's a BIG reach). After the arch turns right it improves, but then it's a roof more than a dihedral.
Scary Monsters: too scary for me to lead. Fun toprope.
29 Palms. Nice and clean, but as noted above, it really eases up for the second half.
Coarse and Buggy. Excellent.
Touch and Go. Fun romp.
Hercules. No way in hell that's 11c. Largo admitted as much under cross examination!
Spiderline. Much harder than it looks.
Hidden Arch. Uber-classic and under-appreciated. A must do.
Pat Adams Dihedral. Uber-sandbag. Tough to see your protection as it is mostly a layback. Almost touched the ground on a couple of falls before I sent it.
All I can think of right now.
Brian
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bob
climber
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Hidden Arch is cornerish. Real good. Couple of those 10's on Super Dome are really good. Don't know the names. Natural Selection was awsome. I also remember some 11 corner on Timbuktu Tower that was pretty friggin hard. Polycryogeneticpyrotecnic something or other is the name of the route. Real cool second pitch crack out to an arete.
Bob J.
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wildone
climber
Where you want to be
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Is Light Saber a dihedral? Maybe it was "Star Wars"...
We were out on geology tour road, and it was a super cool, somewhat awkward corner. I think it was called light saber..
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Murf
climber
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Naked Reagan ( Sorry DE - Raygun! ), short crux dihedral section.
Rites of Passage (Frontier Wall, QM )- Looks awesome, has *anyone* here done it?
Snake Book
Bridge of Sighs - While I know folks that lead it, probably a better TR.
Poaching Bighorn - My dim recollection is that the bottom is dihedrally?
Greenhorn Dihedral -
Wavecrest
Has anyone here ever tried Warrior Eagle or knows the 411 on how many pins where used on the FA? It is out of the range at a reported.12b, but it looks spectacular.
I personally wouldn't consider Hercules a dihedral.
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rlf
Trad climber
Josh, CA
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Yeah, I guess you're probably right there murf.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
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Disposition Crevice .11b is pretty good,
Coarse and Buggy is fantastic.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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As a lead, Hercules is probably 12a/b unless you have knifeblade hands. And I still say 29 Palms is hard as sh#t if you have thick fingers. I had to stem it and could barely stay on. Hidden Arch is really a good one and I think rarely gets done. I had more trouble on that one than all the rest because I couldn't fit into the slot and had to chimney. Nearly killed me.
Course and Buggy is all time, IMO.
JL
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Good list from Brian.
I had also thought of Scary Monsters, which is good value for being so short. I remember seeing Leavit toprope that not long after busting his leg and watching him pull a move where both hands were on one side of the corner and both feet smearing on the other. Wild. Certainly don't have to climb it that way though.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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hidden arch was hard and weird.
and hyperion used to be easier. i remember a bunch of my b.c. friends coming back to the campground one day carrying what had been that nice handhold from the crux move.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Others not mentioned:
Classic Corner
False Classic Corner
Thrill of Desire
Book of Brilliant Things
Warrier Eagle
Dihedralman
Bighorn Dihedral
Dihedron
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Warrior Eagle is indeed one of the best. A really hard lead though, the pro just doesn't seem to want to go in very easily or well. I'd be curious to know if its had many leads without the pins.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Fatdad, in many circumstances having hands on one side and feet
on the other makes a move easier.
I did that a lot on Coarse and Buggy.
On some of those moves it reduces the forces and makes the
stepping up easier.
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Murf
climber
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So Jeremy did you lead Warrior Eagle? How many pins were there?
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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I tried to lead it many years ago (1986) at a time when I was flashing the standard stuff (29 Palms, Hidden Arch etc...) and didn't do it. This was pre dogging of course. Went back by myself a couple of years ago and did it on a tr. Climbing seemed just a little harder than the standard stuff, but pro looked quite tough.(I was checking it out for the lead). There were no pins in the route on either occasion.
Jerry
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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C&B
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Murf, that actually was my route (Naked Reagan,not Raygun, with Dave "Young Strong" Griffith, not DE) and also Snake Book, among many others...but I'd like to add The Condor, which was also one of my favs there. I was pretty adept at stemming and had done every one in the monument...
But I always warmed up with a bit of stretching daily on these easier problems...
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Murf
climber
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Sorry Mike, I was misinformed. The Bartlett guide has DE as first listed on the FA, with you second, Alan Robets and Ken Gordon. The name is Naked Raygun in Bartlett, and Vogel had thought he had gotten the name incorrect ( Naked Reagan ).
Mike did you ever get on Warrior Eagle or Rites of Passage?
Jeremy thanks for the info.
-Murf
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Here's an old C&B pic. Late '80's for sure...
Murf, I did Warrior Eagle with Sutton shortly before he broke his hip jumping. We were getting things sorted out to try The Mohawk, and Yaniro had told Steve we should do Warrior Eagle first. The pro was fine with small nuts and tcu's. No pins. Also, right there is the fabulous Knight in Shining Armor.
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Murf
climber
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Thanks Kris, that's good stuff. I've done The Knight in Shining Armor. My only complaint, I wanted it to keep going!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah Murf I also did Warrior Eagle and Knight in Shining Armor, both really cool but never did actually get to Rites of Passage...Don't exactly remember now where that was...i also put up the little ditty "Private Idaho" that was kind of cool...
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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Good thread. Thought I'd shake it up to the top after doing 29 Palms (blew the onsight and whipped on some small brass, got it second go),, Scary Monster (real good, harder than the previous and a lot more pumpy but I hung in there).
Then headed to Indian Cove because of the wind and got on The Condor, really great route as hard as the previous routes, threw a TR on it because the pins are gone and it would have been #1 brass for the first half, I felt good but it just wasn't worth it. I thought about trying it with a hammer and a few beaks for the start...would have been exciting, I should have done it...
Are Dihedralman and Dihedron the same route? The latter is not in the guide while the first is rated 13a not 14a, just curious as I look up.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 19, 2010 - 02:05am PT
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hmmm.
Josh bump.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:36am PT
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I said it on the first page of this thread and no-one answered, so I'll ask again. There's one on Geology Tour Road kinda out by Lechlinski crack, called either "Light Saber" or "Star Wars".
Anyone ever done it?
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Dec 19, 2010 - 07:58am PT
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it is light sabre,
and a fine route
at that!!!!
starts out on beautiful
but short dihedral,
out the crux bulge
w/low angle finish.
right next to
cedrics deep sea
fish market, which
is a very fine
finger crack. 10+?
might as well
go do perpetual
motion when in
the area.
love and respect.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Dec 19, 2010 - 08:48am PT
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even though it is easier than everything you all are talking about dogleg 5.8 in the campground is my favorite dihedral...
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Dec 19, 2010 - 10:07am PT
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That was awesome Jo. I followed Eamon up it. Seemed full value for an 8.
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Soulsurfer
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Dec 19, 2010 - 11:01am PT
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Dihedron (5.14)is over by 'boogers on a lampshade' out in Wonderland. It should be in the bartlett guide.
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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Dec 19, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Don't forget Rockwork Orange, short, but memorable.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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Cretin Bulldancer is fun and in the right range. The Pilgrim is good, but the protection is tricky near the bottom.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
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What's that thing to the right of Sexy Grandma? Orphin perhaps? Great stemming start, with an even better squeeze at the top.
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F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:20pm PT
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Cretin Bulldancer is a good one
"What's that thing to the right of Sexy Grandma? Orphin perhaps?"
Yes the Orphan, good and stretchy on the legs and hips
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:31pm PT
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Tumbling Rainbow is in a dihedral, right?
;-)
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rbob
climber
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:35pm PT
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+1 for Natural Selection in the Fortress... a bit easier than C&B, but a lot longer.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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I would agree with Largo that Hercules is 5.12 but there really isn't any stemming on the route. You can jam the whole thing or jam for a while and then kick into a lieback on the top half, or just for kicks you can lie back the entire route (much harder but fun on tr).
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adam d
climber
Los Osos, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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RBob, just realized who you are since I took those pics and was tied in on the other end of the rope.
Lots of fun. The little roof is not the crux, actually sinker fingers through there.
A great long, interesting pitch.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:20pm PT
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Upthread someone mentioned Snake Book, up at Emerald City. This is a good one for a chilly day, the hike up there will warm you up and the climb is S facing and sheltered from northerly winds.
While you are up there do The Rattler as well. The lower section is kind of like a dihedral but different...
Higher up it turns into a nice .10+ wide crack.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:23pm PT
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Coarse and Buggy...
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:25pm PT
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C+B is not just a great stemmer but my favorite pitch at Josh.
Ditto for a bunch of other stemmers mentioned.
29 Palms classic
Rockwork Orange, back and foot
Hidden Arch, hard to protect in the old days before small cams
Warrior Eagle, never had pins and was well worth the walk.
The Condor, I put a couple pins in at the bottom for the FA and couldn't imagine doing it without them. Now I can't even imagine doing it on a TR.
Josh Dihedrals are the scheisse.
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Tumbling Rainbow, 5.9...
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caughtinside
Social climber
Davis, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:34pm PT
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Snake book is a stellar sub tips stemming corner on that perfect dark varnish!
That Rattler is great too, although not a stemming corner. A giveaway at the guidebook 11a. I'd say closer to .10c.
I was headed into the park last winter, when I picked up a hitch hiking Dick Cilley. I told him I was on my way to try the Scary Monsters. he looks me up and down, and in a slow drawl just says "You'll neeever do it."
he was right!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:44pm PT
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I'll never forget the day I did Warrior Eagle. Sutton and I were planning to do The Mohawk, and I guess Yaniro told Steve we should do Warrior Eagle first. So we went out there - Steve knew where it was - with Dr. Yoho and Rondo along as well, which gauranteed an entertaining outing. I went first and flashed. Then I cleaned the gear and pulled the cord and Steve led it nicely. We figured we were ready for Mohawk and made plans, but in the meantime Steve got hurt jumping and we never got back to do it.
I did Condor around the same time with no pins. I thought it protected reasonably well with thin wires, but The Eagle had better pro. I do remeber being very happy to get a decent sized cam up high on Condor. Whew!
I though at the time that both of those corners were about the same for difficulty. About 12a. Condor perhaps a bit more dangerous, Eagle perhaps a bit more demanding.
Congrats on a brilliant F/A on Condor!
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:46pm PT
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The Dolphin, 5.7...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:57pm PT
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The Orphan, 5.9...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 05:10pm PT
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Snake Book...
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illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 05:14pm PT
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Natural Selection, 5.10d...
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 25, 2011 - 05:51pm PT
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Kris-
Is that photo of Warrior Eagle after the crux?? Its wierd, it just doesn't look like the route. It has that wave on the right wall, the crux. There is a large section of the dihedral that broke out of the corner, right above the wave. A good nut went in the bottom of that, then a small cam 18" higher in the top. All small nuts and brass from there for a ways... Much harder than Scary Monsters and 29 Palms. Hope to go back sometime soon..
EDIT::
Ohhh, I think you are standing at the crux, the piece of stone right in your face is gone now, there is a flare about 2' tall right where you are placing gear. I see now you are right at the crux, its just hard to tell how that right wall does the bulgy wave in that photo.
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gonzo chemist
climber
Crane Jackson's Fountain St. Theater
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Mar 25, 2011 - 09:01pm PT
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What about The Condor (5.12a)? Looks fantastic!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Mar 25, 2011 - 09:24pm PT
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The condor is superb. No fixed pins though and it would be nearly impossible with brass. It would be a solo for 20 feet to marginal gear. I put a TR on it in December, it was great! Almost went to the car for pins and a hammer to do it on lead with them... Tempting and could be done...
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Feb 17, 2016 - 08:14pm PT
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Warrior Eagle is an absolutely classic stemming corner. I made two trips out to The Castle this weekend with my buddy Friend. It features tenuous and sustained stemming with a crux bulge. The hard climbing is protected entirely by RPs and #3 and smaller BD stoppers. As a bonus you get to "warmup" on Knight in Shining Armor, an awesome 5.11 finger crack. My partner for Warrior Eagle also followed me on 29 Palms two months ago, another difficult and awesome dihedral mentioned many times in this thread. He thought 29 was harder. I'm not sure, but certainly think 11d is a major sandbag for 29 Palms.
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Friend
climber
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Feb 17, 2016 - 09:22pm PT
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^^ first lap, onsight attempt. Second lap, exploratory foray. 3rd lap redpoint, smooth as silk. Way to go Jon, that was inspirational and f*#king fun to watch.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Feb 17, 2016 - 10:39pm PT
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Good pics last couple pages, thanks for the bump
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Feb 18, 2016 - 06:36am PT
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I'll trade you the Gunks for JT for like 3 years. Maybe I give it back, maybe I don't.
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Friend
climber
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Feb 24, 2016 - 03:26pm PT
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Despite reports that this is a sketchy lead, I thought the protection was adequate. In light of their respective ratings, 29 Palms is the more difficult line.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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More Coarse and Buggy
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Another C&B butt shot...
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Dec 17, 2017 - 12:55pm PT
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Fantastic Jon! ^^^^^
Watched most of your Vimeo collection.
Some real classics there!!
Thank you for posting up!
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Dec 17, 2017 - 01:22pm PT
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Thanks Rollover, glad you enjoyed it.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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This is an excellent route and a must do on the difficult dihedral circuit of Josh. There is gear, but all of it is marginal throughout the difficult climbing.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Great video Jon
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Not Josh but very similar rock. One unclimbed and another 5.10+
Saline Wall, Saline Valley
Plenty of other fine dihedrals looking for ascents.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Wavecrest is pretty deep in the Wonderland. It sits high above the desert floor up above the Lost in the Wonderland Slab. It is an amazing spot. The climb itself is excellent and gets an extra star for obscurity. Friend and I visited it two weekends ago. I eeked out the onsight and Friend smoothly redpointed.
Both the approach to and the exit from the crag are spectacular. A classic outing all around.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Now there's one I sure have not heard of. Looks excellent. Thanks for all of your posts, Jon
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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How long to drive from J Tree to Saline Valley?
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Friend
climber
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That Saline valley corner looks sick Batrock!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Lucas....R.I.P.
The good ones go to young.
Not 5.10 in the Book, but go climb “False Classic Corner”.....
It’s short but a fun bit of stemming.
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Jon Clark
climber
philadelphia
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Snake Book isn't one of hardest, but it's one of the best.
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