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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Warrior Eagle is indeed one of the best. A really hard lead though, the pro just doesn't seem to want to go in very easily or well. I'd be curious to know if its had many leads without the pins.
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scuffy b
climber
Stump with a backrest
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Fatdad, in many circumstances having hands on one side and feet
on the other makes a move easier.
I did that a lot on Coarse and Buggy.
On some of those moves it reduces the forces and makes the
stepping up easier.
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Murf
climber
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So Jeremy did you lead Warrior Eagle? How many pins were there?
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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I tried to lead it many years ago (1986) at a time when I was flashing the standard stuff (29 Palms, Hidden Arch etc...) and didn't do it. This was pre dogging of course. Went back by myself a couple of years ago and did it on a tr. Climbing seemed just a little harder than the standard stuff, but pro looked quite tough.(I was checking it out for the lead). There were no pins in the route on either occasion.
Jerry
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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C&B
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Murf, that actually was my route (Naked Reagan,not Raygun, with Dave "Young Strong" Griffith, not DE) and also Snake Book, among many others...but I'd like to add The Condor, which was also one of my favs there. I was pretty adept at stemming and had done every one in the monument...
But I always warmed up with a bit of stretching daily on these easier problems...
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Murf
climber
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Sorry Mike, I was misinformed. The Bartlett guide has DE as first listed on the FA, with you second, Alan Robets and Ken Gordon. The name is Naked Raygun in Bartlett, and Vogel had thought he had gotten the name incorrect ( Naked Reagan ).
Mike did you ever get on Warrior Eagle or Rites of Passage?
Jeremy thanks for the info.
-Murf
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, Ca
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Here's an old C&B pic. Late '80's for sure...
Murf, I did Warrior Eagle with Sutton shortly before he broke his hip jumping. We were getting things sorted out to try The Mohawk, and Yaniro had told Steve we should do Warrior Eagle first. The pro was fine with small nuts and tcu's. No pins. Also, right there is the fabulous Knight in Shining Armor.
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Murf
climber
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Thanks Kris, that's good stuff. I've done The Knight in Shining Armor. My only complaint, I wanted it to keep going!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah Murf I also did Warrior Eagle and Knight in Shining Armor, both really cool but never did actually get to Rites of Passage...Don't exactly remember now where that was...i also put up the little ditty "Private Idaho" that was kind of cool...
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:13am PT
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Good thread. Thought I'd shake it up to the top after doing 29 Palms (blew the onsight and whipped on some small brass, got it second go),, Scary Monster (real good, harder than the previous and a lot more pumpy but I hung in there).
Then headed to Indian Cove because of the wind and got on The Condor, really great route as hard as the previous routes, threw a TR on it because the pins are gone and it would have been #1 brass for the first half, I felt good but it just wasn't worth it. I thought about trying it with a hammer and a few beaks for the start...would have been exciting, I should have done it...
Are Dihedralman and Dihedron the same route? The latter is not in the guide while the first is rated 13a not 14a, just curious as I look up.
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 19, 2010 - 02:05am PT
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hmmm.
Josh bump.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Dec 19, 2010 - 04:36am PT
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I said it on the first page of this thread and no-one answered, so I'll ask again. There's one on Geology Tour Road kinda out by Lechlinski crack, called either "Light Saber" or "Star Wars".
Anyone ever done it?
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Dec 19, 2010 - 07:58am PT
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it is light sabre,
and a fine route
at that!!!!
starts out on beautiful
but short dihedral,
out the crux bulge
w/low angle finish.
right next to
cedrics deep sea
fish market, which
is a very fine
finger crack. 10+?
might as well
go do perpetual
motion when in
the area.
love and respect.
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tinker b
climber
the commonwealth
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Dec 19, 2010 - 08:48am PT
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even though it is easier than everything you all are talking about dogleg 5.8 in the campground is my favorite dihedral...
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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Dec 19, 2010 - 10:07am PT
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That was awesome Jo. I followed Eamon up it. Seemed full value for an 8.
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Soulsurfer
Trad climber
San Diego, Ca
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Dec 19, 2010 - 11:01am PT
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Dihedron (5.14)is over by 'boogers on a lampshade' out in Wonderland. It should be in the bartlett guide.
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Scole
Trad climber
San Diego
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Dec 19, 2010 - 12:26pm PT
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Don't forget Rockwork Orange, short, but memorable.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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Cretin Bulldancer is fun and in the right range. The Pilgrim is good, but the protection is tricky near the bottom.
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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Dec 19, 2010 - 01:09pm PT
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What's that thing to the right of Sexy Grandma? Orphin perhaps? Great stemming start, with an even better squeeze at the top.
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