Old mystery pro

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SavageMarmot

Trad climber
Nederland, CO
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:21pm PT
Credit: SavageMarmot
Chouinard Stopper:

What size is this? The cord holes are 9.3mm and it measures 21.3mm wide and 32.5mm long at the top. Pre 80's?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
You need to post a picture with a Stopper of known size nearby for comparison.

Several generations of flat-sided Chouinard Stoppers to consider before they switched to the curved shape.

Stoppers #1-#4 on an open wire and #5- #8 slung in the early seventies. 8 sizes.


Tom Frost photo of Yvon Chouinard wearing his wares.

Stoppers #1- #8 1/2 available on a wire and #4 -#8 1/2 available slung. 16 sizes.







Stoppers #1-#13 available wired some sizes slung. 13 sizes.





SM- Yours is a #7 from the 13 size range set. The last two shots are from the 1978 Great Pacific Ironworks catalog.
SavageMarmot

Trad climber
Nederland, CO
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
Credit: SavageMarmot
Here's a next gen #10 stopper for reference.
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:15pm PT
#11 Stopper
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:19pm PT
It looks on closer inspection that you have a older style #7 with undersize cord. Perfect fingerlock size if you have big paws.
SavageMarmot

Trad climber
Nederland, CO
Apr 21, 2013 - 01:51pm PT
My gut says you nailed it. When were these made?

TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 21, 2013 - 02:33pm PT
If it's a 1972 first gen stopper and is a #7 it will measure 3/4" by 1-1/4" long

A bit later the #11 is 7/8" which comes up closer to your dimension.

Is your dimension across the narrow aspect or the wide side?

Stopper dimensions were published measured on the narrower of the two widths in the 72 catalog.


couchmaster

climber
pdx
Apr 21, 2013 - 03:47pm PT
You guys are just saying it a a #7 Stopper cause that's what it says on it. LOL



At least that's what I see. ps, nice post Steve G!

TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Apr 21, 2013 - 04:02pm PT
OK you've forced me to go open the junk drawer and get the dial calipers out.

2 samples of #7s 0.84 and 0.85

So the catalog dimensions of 0.75 aren't correct.

Here's another mystery.

I have a #8 that's 1.18 and has the oval hollow extrusion.

This one isn't in the 72 catalog, but I'm sure it was purchased around then.
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 21, 2013 - 11:27pm PT
Stephane- Did that come from a European source or North America?
Steve- I am sorry, I am not sure of the origin of this little nut. Maybe it was found somewhere in North America. It has a rather similar shape as an old Chouinard Stopper, but it is mounted on a thinner wire.

And... as you mention the Abalakov cam, I am very proud to show you the full set of Grivel Bikov. It took me a long long time to complete the set...
GRIVEL Bikov
GRIVEL Bikov
Credit: nutstory

Rick A- Thank you for sharing the fascinating story of the Banana Nut.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Apr 22, 2013 - 12:25am PT
I agree with TGT. The Chouinard stopper in question looks like a first generation #7. Of course, the numbering has changed over the years and I have no clue what it translates into today's versions.
tansofun

climber
Long Beach, CA
Apr 23, 2013 - 03:52am PT
Wired variation on the theme of an Abalakov cam made from a pulley wheel and not likely a commercial release.

Thanks Steve! Learning more about old gear every day.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 24, 2013 - 09:16pm PT
Just for fun some Abalakov-style flywheel cams brought back from a Russian exchange expedition by Chuck Kroger and now in the YCA collection.





Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Jul 3, 2013 - 02:05pm PT
Tansofun (my friend) was over in Nepal and bought some souvenirs for us like the one he posted above.

My box of fun just arrived - only took 2 months to get here due a stop by Home Land Security. Here is one item. The Sherpa told him it was an old ice screw.....what do you think it was used for? - Maybe anchoring ladders?

Old homemade screw?  Auger?
Old homemade screw? Auger?
Credit: Roots

Handle
Handle
Credit: Roots

Tip
Tip
Credit: Roots
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