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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Apr 14, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
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bump.
this is a realy good TR you posted, Thanks!!
so i've been planning to climb it this week (unless i chicken out)
i've been wondering though, as far as big gear, all i have are the #4, 5, 6 BD cams, #9 Valley Giant, and a #4 Big Bro....
is that enough?
thanks
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nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
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Apr 14, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
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Wow, what a great community service of a bump! I don't often use this adjective in the exultant and irrationally exuberant sense, but you guys are SICK! Now I want to see Death Valley mud-nailing in July!
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murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
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Apr 14, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
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Great TR and bump.
Another pic of some climber or other on Pratt's Crack from some random site elsewhere on the net:
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Apr 14, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
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Chris, this seems even more psychotic than the first time I read it ;)
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Apr 14, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
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Man;
I led that that thing what seems to be a Hundred years ago but it was summer then! Good work!! Great TR.
Thanks Bruce.
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Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
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Apr 14, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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i'll be on it saturday or sunday and i'm prayin i can do it.
if so i'll post up.
i can't believe you guys doing this in the snow and in the dark dark... that is purely beastly.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 14, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Rowdy! Good effort guys. and good photogs. Super cool crack.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 14, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
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FANTASTIC! I've been up Pratt's twice and the pro varied widely--jammed hex knots the first time, then a slung horn half-way up the second. Pratt's is great because it basically feels secure but you could deck from three distinct spots in the route! I can also appreciate that snow cone. Karl Harrington--Bob's son--and I post-holed up in January about eight years ago and to try Ecstasy.
We kept joking that Pratt probably did the FA in work books after working a shift at the mine, slotting his own hauled chock stones along the way. Bad Asssssss!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Apr 14, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
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One of the all time best TR's. Almost forgot about this one.
Which reminds me, I got a doosey of a TR on Growing Up I'm waiting to post that's just ripe with controversy. Waiting on the photos that is.
Evan, just go out there and start climbing the thing. Don't listen to all the hype B.S. and psyche yourself out. Bring an assortment of gear and when you get to the base, look up and decide from there. Don't take everything though, not enough gear is probably better than way too much on a crack like that.
The route is only 5.9, and not a specially hard one at that. You'll send.....
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 14, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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Awesome winter ascent, you guys. The postholing approach by itself would've turned back most.
I'll look forward to that TR from Growing Up....
Marty(r) was joking about Pratt's "work boots," and here they are. Pivetta "Cortinas" later called "Muir Trails". Pratt did all his legendary OW in these, so I bought some too. Recently my Mom found her old ones in the garage and gave them to me. So here they are last summer: Pratt's boots on Pratt's Crack.
Photos by Bruce Willey
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Apr 14, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
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Nice touch Robinson, What is that big cam doing hanging from your belt? I know you still have some big tubes somewhere! That would have made it a true old time send.
Bah ha ha .
Bruce.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Apr 14, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
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Sick, wrong and Perverted!
But a fine TR anyway
Peace
Karl
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
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Apr 15, 2009 - 12:58am PT
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Bump for an intrepid TR - that one is on "The List" for Maidy and I.
Nice work, Gentlemen!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 03:16am PT
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the image murcy posted above is of me... it is a fine climb! and I'm honored to be in such good company on this thread.
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Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Apr 15, 2009 - 08:28am PT
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Down, Dogboy!
You're from the Voo -- you know perfectly well that big cams are for pushing.
Tubes were.... I know about tubes, I invented em. They were an OK stopgap to fill a wide slot in history until better ideas came along. Fussy, tho, and often insecure. Sometimes had to carry a file to make em fit.
More secure, at times, than a 4" aluminum bong, but they never sounded as good hanging on your rack.
Weren't we going to climb something this spring? You still employed?
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Apr 15, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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I'm still trying to decide if the pile of snow at the base of the climb technically adds an A0 rating. ;)
Great TR though- thanks for (re)posting.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
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Doug,
Thanks for your post about Muir Trails. When I started climbing, most of my climbing partners used Muir Trails (or as we called them, Pivettas). I was considered something of an oddball, because I used Kronehoffers (sp?).
What really amazes me is what people did on the Apron with those sorts of shoes and such sparse protection.
John
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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Doug,
Good to see the old boy out on the rock.
Just thought I’d throw a few winter (1/23/2003) Pratt Crack photos in for the helluva it. Notice the Patagonia winter garb designed specifically for the occasion.
Also notice no tubes, no large cams. I told my climbing partner (Elvis, the one dressed appropriately) that TM and I didn’t need any wide stuff when we did it a hundred years ago – we were able to find small cracks inside. Elvis still hasn’t forgiven me.
I should mention that I wasn’t trying to impress anyone by wearing Baggies, it was necessary to comply with consistent costuming for a continuing video.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
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OK Don, you get the badass of the week award for doing that crack in shorts and a t-shirt when everyone else appears to be in winter gear. Sheesh man, what were you thinking?
Not that doing offwidths in shorts is a recommended practice anyway. Go Dog go!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 15, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
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Just a remark on climbing shoes.
Bob Kamps, throughout the 60s & 70s wore Pivetta Cortinas (later called Muir Trails). He wore them because of his "little Hobbity feet" (that's the way TM described them). He required a size 5EEE and Pivetta was the only company putting out a huge selection of widths.
Super hard rubber rigid soles. Of course Bob loved edging. Smearing wasn't his forte then.
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