Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 97 of total 97 in this topic |
rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 30, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
|
My partner for this trip is Robert from the North Peak trip.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=473175
He's now in love with ice climbing and on this trip he gets his baptism to the world of offwidths. Might as well start off big.
So the plan is to acclimate in the cold weather with a day of ice climbing in LVC, then head down to the relatively warm temps of Bishop and Pratt's.
A beautiful sunset on Thursday is always a great start.
We leave at 11pm and throw down outside Bishop at ~3am and shiver for a few hours of "sleep". At 7:30am the mooing from a near by herd of cows gets to be too much so it's off to a leisurely breakfast with lots of coffee.
11am brings us to a 2 pitch WI4- on the main wall at LVC.
In just 3 trips Roberts ice skills are impressive, but his left swing could use a little work. He can't hit the same hole to save his ass. An inch to the left, 3/4" to the right, 1" high, 3/4" low, etc. After 6 or 7 sticks there's a big enough hole to just hook it. He's deadly accurate with the right though. A few leads then some TR's on the Chouinard's brings us to sundown and it gets cold.
We hike out in the moonlight and it's back to Bishop for the night.
Pratt's Crack is in Pine Canyon about 10 miles West of Bishop. It's rumored to have only one point of pro, a loose chockstone, for the entire pitch. The book simply states "gear to 10 inches". (stock photo of Pratt's)
But we're pack'n a secret weapon, two of these babies; Valley Giant #9's. I show Robert that the fist jam will swim uselessly in this crack, it's wings and heel-toe jams.
He responds with a blank stare, but enthusiastically repeats our mantra "We Must Top Out!". Robert's a young personal trainer who's proud of his Scottich Heritage & likes to pose sporting the Scottish warrior logo.
I tease him that the Scotts are wankers, actually sub-wankers, because they've been colonized by wankers. That's from Trainspotting but he's too young to know.
After 2 hours of ridiculously exhausting postholing
we arrive a mere quarter mile at the base.
Stunning. Period. We stare at each other and giggle. It's another gorgeous day and surprisingly we have the route all to ourselves! In winter it's a dark, cold corner untouched by the suns rays. The snow is steeper and deeper than it looks.
So now you know how it turns out. Yes, dark. That's the belay ledge we dug out after taking a slide down the hill on the tarp. Notice the bolt over my head. That's the 2nd one(at least), the 1st one was actually below the snow we dug out.
Either it's a big snow year or the guys who put up this route are way light. While I geared up Robert made it to the 3rd bolt. I made him repeat it with a sit start.
At the core of the rack are the two VG # 9's. If you've never seen one of these they're hilarious. First impression is that it's fake, 2nd it's heavy(2 lbs), and 3rd it's hard to rack. The monster rack consisted of 2@ VG #9, 2@ BD C4 #6, BD C4 #5, 2@ BD #5(old style), BD #4.5, 2@ #4(old style), Big Bro #2,3,4,5, a standard rack up to #3(old style), and HB offsets(very useful, please bring 'em back). My left trap/shoulder still hurts and I think I have scoliosis.
So off I go in jeans, high top approach shoes, neoprene knee & elbow pads for the left side, and the biggest f#cking free rack I've ever carried on the right side.
The 1st crux is getting up the 8 foot ice pyramid between me and the crack, balence is key as friction is non existent. At 6 foot, 200lb, with a size 13 foot it's too small to get in and too tight to turn my left foot very far. At 1st progress is slow but then I get the sequence down; left wing in, left foot turned, right hand on the arete, right heel on the outside wall with toes on the arete, pumping the right leg for progress. The left leg has to stay straight otherwise the knee hits the wall preventing the left foot from rotatating to lock, and you slide down. This sequence yields a mere 5 inches of progess per cycle but it's pretty secure. It has been likened as "trying to kick start a Harley."
There are some edges in the crack and holds on the arete that speed things up but nothing consistent.
The arete(in front of you) is excellent granite, more corse than the smooth stuff in the Valley, but not like the crushed glass QM of Josh. The wall behind is the same except it's covered with a half inch layer of green/gray shale(?). Some mostly vertical cracks in the shale yield granite pro placements underneath.
At ~15 there's a bomber #4 Camalot about 2 feet deep in the crack. Then you hit a series of chockstones slung with all kinds of stuff(more on that later). If you stand on them(left foot) it tends to push you out of the crack as they're too deep. I clipped all of it and pushed(or pussed) ahead with my #9 ahead of me. At ~ half way there's a huge ledge(6"x12") to stand on and conveniently at least 6 nut/cam placements in the wall. Hard to do if you're in the crack as they would be behind you, but easy from the ledge. There's two ~5 foot sections where it's too wide for the #9. What a pain to carry it. I left the 1st #9 a little over half way and messed with the #5 Big Bro in the wider section finally leaving it placed with zero confidence. Another #9 section leads to a bomber #4 Big Bro placement about 3/4 of the way up. There's a circular depression in the left wall that looks like the bottom of a beer can and the other side is smooth & parallel. It's the 1st time I place a Big Bro and actually felt good about it. The last 40 feet the crack narrows and I happily unload the 2nd #9, two #6's, a #5, and a #4. I gain the top alcove placing a #1 Camalot where the crack ends.....choked with ice. There's 10 feet between me and the anchors but the first 5 feet are covered with a pyramid of ice just like the bottom of the route. I spend the next 15 minutes with my left hand and foot in the crack whacking away a 5 foot slab of ice with a #2 Big Bro in my right hand. I shovel 2 feet of snow off the ledge and carefully high step onto the 4 inch patch I've cleared on a spire. "F#ck Yeah !!" I shout as I clip the chains. "Is the avalanche over ?" Robert asks. "F#ck Yeah !!" I answer. "Give me a minute to put my shoes on" says Robert. I've been climbing/hammering for the last 20 minutes with my headlamp on and to be honest I was hoping to clean on the way down and be done with it, but Robert is psyched to climb. The previous trips have made him tough as leather. I guess I've got it OK on top; it's a beatiful full moon, no wind, and I've got plenty of snow to eat if I'm hungry.
"Climbing, I must top out!" he yells with Schwarzenegger like gusto. "You must!" I reply as I take up the slack. He starts off slowly, making a lot of noise, headlamp darting all over the place, realizing it's harder than he thought. He tosses his gloves to the ground thinking he'll get better hand holds without them but quickly regrets his mistake. There's not much to grab, just OW technique. It's about 28 degrees F and he's having trouble unclipping pro with his numb fingers. At the ledge he takes a break to warm them up. "You must top out!" I shout down. "I must!!" is the reply and he's on his way. After what seems like an eternity he comes into view, huffing and puffing, both hands and feet in the crack. "Dude, this thing's f#cking hard. Holy shit! How'd you get up that?" Referring to the iced up corner. I pull the ropes aside to reveal the 5 foot trough I beat though the ice leading to my perch. We start laughing as he makes his way up and ties off. We let out a few "Woo Hoo's", bark at the full moon, then rap, leaving the ropes up for tomorrow.
Back to the car, then to town for some well deserved pizza and beer.
We return the next day to find the wind had covered most of yesterdays trail, but it's cold and the snow is firm so we only sink ~18", much better than yesterday. Robert takes my advice about socks, tape, left side in, and makes quick work of it.
We do some laps, look for pro, and have another good laugh at the anchor about last nights top out.(video)
Apparently there's a 2nd pitch that the book(Good, Bad,& Awesome) didn't mention.
The widest section, I'd say close to a foot wide, is kind of a roof. Remember you're looking up.
We pack up and head back to the car in the wind and snow flurries.
A tasty treat burried in the snow!
For size reference.
Looking back up Pine Creek
Looking out across the valley
There are a few small sections with ice inside that are easily passed. Oh yeah, there are occasional mini avalanches from above, but only during the day.
If this bothers you then climb at night or when it's below freezing.
Keep in mind there's a lot of snow so these may be a bit higher in summer. At ~14 feet there's a #4 Camalot 2 feet deep. At ~20 there's a bomber slung(faded orange) chockstone that can't move forward, backward, flip, spin, etc. It's actually recessed into the right side wall. I think it was hatched there.
You can lift it up, and only up, though. There's another one with a yellow sling that wasn't so good. At ~30 feet there's a tat-fest,rat-nest pile of at least 5 different pieces of cord all connected to 2 quick links through a small quarry of chockstones 2-3 feet deep.
I clipped the octapuss twice. At ~ 60 feet there's the ledge, a great rest once cleared of snow and ice.
There's another chockstone with a black sling and no less than six placements, more with offset cams/nuts, including a horizontal crack(yellow Alien) not shown. All accessable from the ledge.
(p2 21)
At 3/4 of the way up there's a perfect #4 Big Bro placement with a 3" circular depression in the left wall. At the top you could climb the right side of the if it's not full of ice.
I highly recommend a pair of the giant cams. You may sustitute with a pair of really giant balls though. If faded webbing and Aliens aren't your thing bring whatever makes you feel warm and fuzzy.
I took a side construction job to pay for the 5's, 6's, 9's, & Big Bros because Pratt's Crack was my New Years climbing resolution. I busted ass & stuck to it. Now I have the rest of the year off! (pep talk) So whatever your resolution is, stick to it and go do it!!
Thanks to Robert, he's a Kick Ass partner who doesn't quit, never complains, is down for anything, and is tons of laughs.
Also, thanks to Russ for his efforts bring back the art of the WIDE. Check out his site.
http://www.widefetish.com/
You may just find yourself coming over to the dark side.
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
primordial soup
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 11:12pm PT
|
ya'll-r nuts
|
|
nick d
Trad climber
nm
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 11:25pm PT
|
Supr-Studs everywhere! Except when I look in the mirror, of course. Sigh...
Congratulations on a fabulous accomplishment!
Plus...now you're all racked up for the desert.
|
|
stevep
Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
|
The lip on that looks pretty square...I know it a bit sacriligous to say this, but could you layback that with occasional stops to stuff yourself in to rest and place pro?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 30, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
|
The wide remains the same....From Ascent 73.
|
|
pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:03am PT
|
The best thing about this tr is that most locals won't send this for months. You guys are RADICAL!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:09am PT
|
good on you!
I love Pratt's Crack it is the "gateway crack" to a whole lot-a-fun
|
|
LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:24am PT
|
you guys are AWeSoME.. best TR of the year, thanks for the beta this route has floated in the back of my mind for a while.
|
|
Big Kahuna
Ice climber
Hell Hardest climb I did was getting out of bed.
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:28am PT
|
F*#king nice send in B E A UT if ul weather! Kick ass!
Lon Harter
|
|
Rockcandy
Ice climber
Santa Clarita, CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 01:19am PT
|
rwedgee! You are the MAN (and I should know...)! Loved, loved, loved everything about this. You are, by far, the best climbing coach-guide-ice friend anyone can have. You can take a novice and turn her (or him) into a great climber. That's a gift. Thanks for being smart enough to use it.
|
|
marky
climber
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 01:19am PT
|
not too shabby
gotta get on that one ...
... in seven months
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 01:27am PT
|
An excellent adventure - thank you!
Or, as Roger might have put it, "Aaargh, Mateys- them be the lucky ones that die!"
|
|
Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 01:36am PT
|
solid, proud.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
The West
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 02:12am PT
|
Nice Work!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:07am PT
|
First winter ascent?!?
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:23am PT
|
Who put all these fn slings around my duck mark. Now it will be hard to see which way to go.
|
|
spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:23am PT
|
Awesome!
|
|
TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:25am PT
|
really fun TR!!
thanks for posting
|
|
Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:28am PT
|
Inspiring! you guys rock.
|
|
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:33am PT
|
Uhh... This sorta leaves me with weird thoughts.
First, nice climb. A worthy route always.
Second, nice photos. This is such a photogenic route.
But third... what the hell were you thinking stickin' your paws into the wide when the sun is not warming the rock like an oven? Don't you know that part of the fun of wide is its ability to shed pounds during an ascent and this is only accomplished when the Easy Bake is set on high?
Fourth, although it is more beta than I enjoy, Lewis & Clark would have been proud of you pictorial documentation and step-by-step placement instructions. Sorta cool in a weird way.
Finally, is that snow? What the hell were you thinking?
Alright, alright... nice work.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
|
these days, the fringe is handsomely decorated.
the net worth of that rack exceeds my total net worth.
you guys must be inspired to throw yourselves into that realm.
enjoy the after-buzz.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:09pm PT
|
Awesome report! That's hard core.
After seeing the pics, I was thinking you'll have to go back after the snow falls and climb the bottom half of the route when the snow cone is gone. :-)
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 01:15pm PT
|
I second that. Snow is AID!!!!!
Seriously though, great TR. I've been snooping around for gear beta (what to bring, not necessarily what to stick where) for that climb. Lots of mixed-messages out there, but I never thought I'd get such a detailed play-by-play...from January!!!
I now have a mind to link up a ski of Scheelite Canyon, with Pratt's "apres ski," this spring. One stop shopping at it's finest!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
|
Youse guys need to get the higher powered
headlamps so you can use them as spots for
your camera--I can't see nothing on a few of them,
especially what kind of beer treat it was!!!!
:-)
|
|
Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
|
Niiiiiice!!
|
|
rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 04:39pm PT
|
Nice work Chris ! And a most excellent car ;)
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 06:54pm PT
|
Great TR, the ice looked steep and thick. Reading about Pratts crack has me almost Hyperventilating, gotta get on that this year. Thanks fer sharing the dream....
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:04pm PT
|
Too bad you bailed at the bolts and didn't top out...
|
|
ZeHardcore
Trad climber
San Diego, California
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
|
THat is ze Hardcore, F#*&ing Harcore!
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
|
No F#*&ing sh'it, hardcore ....
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
So when are you going to get a #12!?
Great send!
Brutus
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
|
|
#12's don't fit in Pratt's, Brutus.
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
Well, I found one place on the second pitch for one...
But I wasn't referring to Pratt's... just normal rack inquisitiveness...
|
|
museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
|
|
Dude,
Jay told me to look for this TR....replying kinda late, but I'm proud of you bro! Nice to see my friend out climbing and putting out the spary to match. Nice!
Steve
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
So when are you going to get a #12!?
He already has a #12 and three #9s, which sorta looks like the upper end of an Excalibur rack.
|
|
rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
|
Thanks for all the compliments. We had a blast and was glad to share. I'd love to read this again in July when it's ~105 degrees in the Valley.
Questions that came up; "could you lie back it?"
Yes, if you're in your 20's. It's just easier to do it the traditional way.(what frat are you in?)
"although it is more beta than I enjoy, Lewis & Clark would have been proud of you pictorial documentation and step-by-step placement instructions. Sorta cool in a weird way."
There is SOOOOO much talk of what's where, no pro, a lot of it from better climbers than me. It's not that bad if you turn to your back. Make no mistake, it's not a sew-up. I didn't want to get totally called out by someone who hasn't been up it for 15 years or not at all. The Pratt tribute says only one point of pro, due to the smaller cam size of the day. There's plenty of bad beta out there. There's at least 3 sections where a #12 VG will fit and pro in the back wall. There you have it.
Hopefully more people will get up the thing now.
Remember this is "supertopo" not "dookietopo"
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
|
This TR does exactly what a good TR should.. it makes me feel weak and feeble.
Most Excellent!
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2008 - 10:48pm PT
|
This TR is so right!
Z
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
|
Good one!
|
|
Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
|
bump.
this is a realy good TR you posted, Thanks!!
so i've been planning to climb it this week (unless i chicken out)
i've been wondering though, as far as big gear, all i have are the #4, 5, 6 BD cams, #9 Valley Giant, and a #4 Big Bro....
is that enough?
thanks
|
|
nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 06:19pm PT
|
Wow, what a great community service of a bump! I don't often use this adjective in the exultant and irrationally exuberant sense, but you guys are SICK! Now I want to see Death Valley mud-nailing in July!
|
|
murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 06:46pm PT
|
Great TR and bump.
Another pic of some climber or other on Pratt's Crack from some random site elsewhere on the net:
|
|
rhyang
climber
SJC
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 07:14pm PT
|
Chris, this seems even more psychotic than the first time I read it ;)
|
|
dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 07:38pm PT
|
Man;
I led that that thing what seems to be a Hundred years ago but it was summer then! Good work!! Great TR.
Thanks Bruce.
|
|
Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
|
i'll be on it saturday or sunday and i'm prayin i can do it.
if so i'll post up.
i can't believe you guys doing this in the snow and in the dark dark... that is purely beastly.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
|
Rowdy! Good effort guys. and good photogs. Super cool crack.
|
|
marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 09:04pm PT
|
FANTASTIC! I've been up Pratt's twice and the pro varied widely--jammed hex knots the first time, then a slung horn half-way up the second. Pratt's is great because it basically feels secure but you could deck from three distinct spots in the route! I can also appreciate that snow cone. Karl Harrington--Bob's son--and I post-holed up in January about eight years ago and to try Ecstasy.
We kept joking that Pratt probably did the FA in work books after working a shift at the mine, slotting his own hauled chock stones along the way. Bad Asssssss!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 09:57pm PT
|
One of the all time best TR's. Almost forgot about this one.
Which reminds me, I got a doosey of a TR on Growing Up I'm waiting to post that's just ripe with controversy. Waiting on the photos that is.
Evan, just go out there and start climbing the thing. Don't listen to all the hype B.S. and psyche yourself out. Bring an assortment of gear and when you get to the base, look up and decide from there. Don't take everything though, not enough gear is probably better than way too much on a crack like that.
The route is only 5.9, and not a specially hard one at that. You'll send.....
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
|
Awesome winter ascent, you guys. The postholing approach by itself would've turned back most.
I'll look forward to that TR from Growing Up....
Marty(r) was joking about Pratt's "work boots," and here they are. Pivetta "Cortinas" later called "Muir Trails". Pratt did all his legendary OW in these, so I bought some too. Recently my Mom found her old ones in the garage and gave them to me. So here they are last summer: Pratt's boots on Pratt's Crack.
Photos by Bruce Willey
|
|
dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 11:22pm PT
|
Nice touch Robinson, What is that big cam doing hanging from your belt? I know you still have some big tubes somewhere! That would have made it a true old time send.
Bah ha ha .
Bruce.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Apr 14, 2009 - 11:36pm PT
|
Sick, wrong and Perverted!
But a fine TR anyway
Peace
Karl
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
One Step Beyond!
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 12:58am PT
|
Bump for an intrepid TR - that one is on "The List" for Maidy and I.
Nice work, Gentlemen!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 03:16am PT
|
the image murcy posted above is of me... it is a fine climb! and I'm honored to be in such good company on this thread.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 08:28am PT
|
Down, Dogboy!
You're from the Voo -- you know perfectly well that big cams are for pushing.
Tubes were.... I know about tubes, I invented em. They were an OK stopgap to fill a wide slot in history until better ideas came along. Fussy, tho, and often insecure. Sometimes had to carry a file to make em fit.
More secure, at times, than a 4" aluminum bong, but they never sounded as good hanging on your rack.
Weren't we going to climb something this spring? You still employed?
|
|
justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
|
I'm still trying to decide if the pile of snow at the base of the climb technically adds an A0 rating. ;)
Great TR though- thanks for (re)posting.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
|
Doug,
Thanks for your post about Muir Trails. When I started climbing, most of my climbing partners used Muir Trails (or as we called them, Pivettas). I was considered something of an oddball, because I used Kronehoffers (sp?).
What really amazes me is what people did on the Apron with those sorts of shoes and such sparse protection.
John
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
|
Doug,
Good to see the old boy out on the rock.
Just thought I’d throw a few winter (1/23/2003) Pratt Crack photos in for the helluva it. Notice the Patagonia winter garb designed specifically for the occasion.
Also notice no tubes, no large cams. I told my climbing partner (Elvis, the one dressed appropriately) that TM and I didn’t need any wide stuff when we did it a hundred years ago – we were able to find small cracks inside. Elvis still hasn’t forgiven me.
I should mention that I wasn’t trying to impress anyone by wearing Baggies, it was necessary to comply with consistent costuming for a continuing video.
|
|
Studly
Trad climber
WA
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 01:49pm PT
|
OK Don, you get the badass of the week award for doing that crack in shorts and a t-shirt when everyone else appears to be in winter gear. Sheesh man, what were you thinking?
Not that doing offwidths in shorts is a recommended practice anyway. Go Dog go!
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 02:04pm PT
|
Just a remark on climbing shoes.
Bob Kamps, throughout the 60s & 70s wore Pivetta Cortinas (later called Muir Trails). He wore them because of his "little Hobbity feet" (that's the way TM described them). He required a size 5EEE and Pivetta was the only company putting out a huge selection of widths.
Super hard rubber rigid soles. Of course Bob loved edging. Smearing wasn't his forte then.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
|
Don,
Elvis Leads! ...I mean, Lives.
Only to you would I admit feeling a tad silly with that big cam swinging off me. I'll bet the "way runout" reputation of this actually rather reasonable crack got started by Pratt simply not bothering to put anything in.
Perhaps I am slightly redeemed by being the only other climber in this thread OW-ing in shorts. How does that go? Old dogs, new wrinkles?
Now, about your hot pink leg loops... You gonna blame them too on the "continuity girl" in your movie?
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
|
Had to make do with available pink webbing for the rappel!
Now Doug you know I never use a harness climbing or chalk.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
|
Oh Don, far be it from me to accuse you of being in harness...
Must admit I use one. Must be among the many bad habit -- like strained tendons -- that I picked up climbing indoors. But then you could have your choice of stone within 20 minute, while I'm stuck in Surf City without a paddle.
I'm fully with you on being chalkless. Bad habit kinda like smoking. Gives people something to do with their hands while vacillating at a crux. Not among the white powders that remotely temp me.
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
|
BTW Doug, that's Roger Very Hairy (aka Derryberry) with the video cam. The video was a requirement for getting an TV Survivor interview. Got the interview, but they probably figured out that I was just a dirty old man with nefarious intentions - so I didn't get a call-back.
|
|
rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 15, 2009 - 07:51pm PT
|
Evdawg, I will be in the area this weekend. If you want to borrow a #9 let me know. Email gccchris@yahoo dot com
Doug, your mom has the same size foot as you?
Salamanizer, can't wait to for the TR on "Growing Up". Post 2 of it; one for enjoying & one for the others to rant.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Apr 15, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
|
I could barely fit into my Mom's old Pivettas without socks -- but they're so cool I had to.
Full disclosure: after the photos I came down and changed into my Acopas. Rands are nice in cracks.
|
|
Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
|
"Evan, just go out there and start climbing the thing. Don't listen to all the hype B.S. and psyche yourself out. Bring an assortment of gear and when you get to the base, look up and decide from there. Don't take everything though, not enough gear is probably better than way too much on a crack like that.
The route is only 5.9, and not a specially hard one at that. You'll send..... "
"Evdawg, I will be in the area this weekend. If you want to borrow a #9 let me know."
well we went down to the Bishop/Independence area this week to climb Mt.Williamson and then Pratt's Crack on the way back but my dad sadly broke his ankle on the approach to Williamson so the rest of the trip was out...
after the hospital we stayed the night in bishop and today i got to at least run up to the base of Pratt's and gawk at the route.... looks alot easier than its cracked up to be...
and rwedgee i think i'll try to take you up on that offer next time you're down there, thanks!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
|
Evdawg-
Now that you've seen it, it's image will be seared into the very fabric of your soul... Forever taunting and screaming at the walls.
It will become an obsession, constantly crying out until it is finally laid to rest.
No matter how much time passes or how deep you bury it in your mind, it will always be there waiting.
You have lots of time, but even forever can come up short.
...and there is little worse than "I wish I would have".
Go back, soon!
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
And give us a TR, with Pics!
Broken ankle???
Harsh!!!
Hope all is well soon.
|
|
Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
|
Wow - THAT is a TR! I bow to the master...
|
|
Evdawg
Trad climber
Sacramento/S. Tahoe
|
|
|
Apr 17, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
|
yeah it was a bummer!
he was way exausted after the first day and it was obvious we weren't going to make the summit in time at that pace so we camped and day two started heading out, i glissading and he snowshoeing... his snowshoe slipped out from him and he rolled/twisted/F-ed up his ankle about 500 feet up the dang snowfield :/
he said his ankle only hurt when he bent his foot up or down so he was able to hike out very slowly and cautiously with me carrying his pack for a ways... we had a little scare later when up on the snowfield he snapped his trecking pole and almost went for a ride..
hospital said a fractured tibula but he's already planned to go back asap after the 6-8 weeks!
but as far as pratt's crack, you're right, i can't wait to get on that thing... and will definately post up!
|
|
brett
climber
oregon
|
|
|
Apr 18, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
|
If Don Lauria is still following this thread, would it be ok for someone to post "Letters From TM" ? I have not read this in 20 years and would love to see it again.
thanks
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2009 - 01:26am PT
|
I have no objections, it's just that the language is quite risque.
|
|
murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
|
|
|
Apr 19, 2009 - 01:35am PT
|
Maybe the Dawg family has an unfortunate tendency to leg fractures?
Kidding.
|
|
Swifter
Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
Two pix of Pratt on the FA here. RH photo shows Chuck at a chockstone. If he tied this off for protection it was his first. Did he belay from here or continue? I don't remember.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
wow, thanks Swifter, what a wonderful image!
a recollection provided to the distributed consciousness by the collective memory... and its interconnection...
|
|
Bad Climber
climber
|
|
Freakish and wild. Well done. I now know what I WON'T be doing this winter.
BAd
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 01:08pm PT
|
Very nice to see this again.
There was a photo, common, maybe iconic, in the old days, may have even
been a poster.
Mike Covington, maybe, climbing this in mountaineering garb, with snow
involved?
Galen Rowell photo?
Any bells ringing?
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 01:22pm PT
|
"There was a photo, common, maybe iconic, in the old days, may have even
been a poster.
Mike Covington, maybe, climbing this in mountaineering garb, with snow
involved?
Galen Rowell photo?
Any bells ringing?"
I have the poster, I'll try and post up a photo of it later,
Yes a Galen photo
|
|
F10
Trad climber
e350 / Bishop
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 10:20pm PT
|
here ya go scuffy
Galen Rowell poster
|
|
MisterE
Social climber
Bouncy Tiggerville
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 10:23pm PT
|
It was really great to do this climb with Radical and F10. A legendary climb with good friends - thanks guys!
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
|
Scottish my arse, where is his utilaKilt?
Kahuna when ever you're up for belaying I'm on that sweet wide, Phat bottom girls you make the rock-in' world go round......
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 10, 2011 - 10:30pm PT
|
A legendary climb with good friend
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:13am PT
|
Try it without any of those big Friends...
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:23am PT
|
Mean like when I lead it, and TZ in 80?
Believe me, I know what you're talkin' about..
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:19pm PT
|
Thanks, F10
That angle makes it look like a long pitch.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2011 - 01:53pm PT
|
I remember when I first met Don, in LA, when I did a show at his store,
what a great guy, what a first-class spirit. It's great to see and hear
from him. One of the great and good ones.
|
|
neversummer
Mountain climber
perris, cali
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:31pm PT
|
nice !!!!
|
|
Steve L
Gym climber
SUR
|
|
|
Jan 11, 2011 - 02:40pm PT
|
whoaaa. sweet poster. on the spring list for sure.
|
|
Swifter
Social climber
Flagstaff, AZ
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 05:26pm PT
|
. L to R: Doug Robinson, Toni Barker, Chuck Pratt.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
Three feet higher
|
|
|
Jan 20, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
|
Guido on left?
Foote on right?
|
|
Sonic
Trad climber
Hilly, but no rocks Folsom, California
|
|
BUMPITY BUMP
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 - 01:27pm PT
|
Thought I'd add a little hot weather contrast to all these cold weather photos. Some pics from last week:
|
|
SeanH
Trad climber
SLC
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 - 01:41pm PT
|
Nice TR! Way to get at it in the winter. Ice climbing and and wide in one trip, can't beat that.
|
|
Matt's
climber
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 - 04:18pm PT
|
cool pictures
there are some OW climbs (pipeline comes to mind) where the thought of doing it without wide cams is pretty incomprehensible/impressive
pratt's crack is not one of those climbs...
|
|
FRUMY
Trad climber
Bishop,CA
|
|
|
Jul 22, 2014 - 04:49pm PT
|
TFPU
|
|
kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
|
|
Pratt's Crack/Eastside bump!
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
Man, this one should be toward the top of my to-do list.
Some years ago I belayed Em up a lap on it, but my kids were getting bored and cranky and ready to go by then, so I passed on my turn and haven't been back since. It looks absolutely beautiful though and is burned into my brain.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 97 of total 97 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!