Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:33am PT
|
Uhh... This sorta leaves me with weird thoughts.
First, nice climb. A worthy route always.
Second, nice photos. This is such a photogenic route.
But third... what the hell were you thinking stickin' your paws into the wide when the sun is not warming the rock like an oven? Don't you know that part of the fun of wide is its ability to shed pounds during an ascent and this is only accomplished when the Easy Bake is set on high?
Fourth, although it is more beta than I enjoy, Lewis & Clark would have been proud of you pictorial documentation and step-by-step placement instructions. Sorta cool in a weird way.
Finally, is that snow? What the hell were you thinking?
Alright, alright... nice work.
|
|
Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:00pm PT
|
these days, the fringe is handsomely decorated.
the net worth of that rack exceeds my total net worth.
you guys must be inspired to throw yourselves into that realm.
enjoy the after-buzz.
|
|
steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 12:09pm PT
|
Awesome report! That's hard core.
After seeing the pics, I was thinking you'll have to go back after the snow falls and climb the bottom half of the route when the snow cone is gone. :-)
|
|
Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 01:15pm PT
|
I second that. Snow is AID!!!!!
Seriously though, great TR. I've been snooping around for gear beta (what to bring, not necessarily what to stick where) for that climb. Lots of mixed-messages out there, but I never thought I'd get such a detailed play-by-play...from January!!!
I now have a mind to link up a ski of Scheelite Canyon, with Pratt's "apres ski," this spring. One stop shopping at it's finest!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
|
Youse guys need to get the higher powered
headlamps so you can use them as spots for
your camera--I can't see nothing on a few of them,
especially what kind of beer treat it was!!!!
:-)
|
|
Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 04:36pm PT
|
Niiiiiice!!
|
|
rhyang
Ice climber
SJC
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 04:39pm PT
|
Nice work Chris ! And a most excellent car ;)
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 06:54pm PT
|
Great TR, the ice looked steep and thick. Reading about Pratts crack has me almost Hyperventilating, gotta get on that this year. Thanks fer sharing the dream....
|
|
Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:04pm PT
|
Too bad you bailed at the bolts and didn't top out...
|
|
ZeHardcore
Trad climber
San Diego, California
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
|
THat is ze Hardcore, F#*&ing Harcore!
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jan 31, 2008 - 11:29pm PT
|
No F#*&ing sh'it, hardcore ....
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
So when are you going to get a #12!?
Great send!
Brutus
|
|
Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
|
|
#12's don't fit in Pratt's, Brutus.
|
|
Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
|
|
Well, I found one place on the second pitch for one...
But I wasn't referring to Pratt's... just normal rack inquisitiveness...
|
|
museman
Big Wall climber
Poway, Ca
|
|
Dude,
Jay told me to look for this TR....replying kinda late, but I'm proud of you bro! Nice to see my friend out climbing and putting out the spary to match. Nice!
Steve
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
So when are you going to get a #12!?
He already has a #12 and three #9s, which sorta looks like the upper end of an Excalibur rack.
|
|
rwedgee
Ice climber
canyon country,CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2008 - 10:32pm PT
|
Thanks for all the compliments. We had a blast and was glad to share. I'd love to read this again in July when it's ~105 degrees in the Valley.
Questions that came up; "could you lie back it?"
Yes, if you're in your 20's. It's just easier to do it the traditional way.(what frat are you in?)
"although it is more beta than I enjoy, Lewis & Clark would have been proud of you pictorial documentation and step-by-step placement instructions. Sorta cool in a weird way."
There is SOOOOO much talk of what's where, no pro, a lot of it from better climbers than me. It's not that bad if you turn to your back. Make no mistake, it's not a sew-up. I didn't want to get totally called out by someone who hasn't been up it for 15 years or not at all. The Pratt tribute says only one point of pro, due to the smaller cam size of the day. There's plenty of bad beta out there. There's at least 3 sections where a #12 VG will fit and pro in the back wall. There you have it.
Hopefully more people will get up the thing now.
Remember this is "supertopo" not "dookietopo"
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2008 - 10:36pm PT
|
This TR does exactly what a good TR should.. it makes me feel weak and feeble.
Most Excellent!
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2008 - 10:48pm PT
|
This TR is so right!
Z
|
|
Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
|
|
|
Feb 11, 2008 - 11:47pm PT
|
Good one!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!