Trad areas?

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bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2007 - 04:52pm PT
All this trad talk made me wonder:

Are there any pure trad areas still left? besides Elbsandstein?

Kamps in action.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Sep 22, 2007 - 04:56pm PT
Dexter Canyon used to be. Just kidding John.

Ken
JAK

climber
The Souf
Sep 22, 2007 - 05:28pm PT
Define "pure trad area"?

I can think of plenty of places that don't cotton to that thurr spurt climbin'.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Ventura
Sep 22, 2007 - 07:20pm PT
Bobby K taught me how to climb!
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 22, 2007 - 07:29pm PT
The Gunks comes to mind.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2007 - 07:35pm PT
Trad is on-sight, ground up (free, aid or mixed)..... Mr. Chicken Skinner!
Crimpergirl

Social climber
St. Looney
Sep 22, 2007 - 07:38pm PT
Seneca Rocks comes to mind also
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2007 - 08:02pm PT
No rap bolting at the Gunks or Seneca?
Trevor

Big Wall climber
Escondido, CA
Sep 22, 2007 - 08:30pm PT
Is there any rap-bolting on Tahquitz?
creetur

climber
CA
Sep 22, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
I think Paradise Forks in northern AZ has just a single line of bolts (no anchor bolts or shuts anywhere or anything) that no one climbs, on principle--it really pissed the locals off.
but you current arizonians can confirm...maybe something has changed.
BadInfluence

Mountain climber
Dak side
Sep 22, 2007 - 08:45pm PT
Millbrook!

Romano style. Ground up, always going for it.

no bolts, no fixed anchors. Just Bank Deposits
Crimpergirl

Social climber
St. Looney
Sep 22, 2007 - 10:54pm PT
It is my understanding that Seneca is trad in the strictest sense of the word - no rap bolting. In fact, to this day, there continues to be almost no bolts at all!

From page 9 of the Tony Barnes guide titled Seneca: The Climber's Guide:

"A few years ago the Seneca climbing community embraced on the of the strongest no-bolts climbing ethics in the United States. In 1980 there were fewer than ten bolts on the entire cliff:each and everyone of which was hotly debated long before they were placed, on the lead. The American bolting ethics has loosened considerably during the 1980s and early 1990s, but at Seneca their use continues to be sparse."


If you haven't been there, you should go. I've said it before - it's the only climbing I miss since moving away from the DC area. It's wonderful!

John Stannard can speak of this with much greater authority. Or perhaps you can get Tony Barnes or Hunt Prothro to post. They have both posted here before.

Ah... Seneca...

Looking up at Castor and Pollux (and you can see Orange Aid and Alcoa Presents up high)...

Juicer

Trad climber
SLC
Sep 22, 2007 - 10:55pm PT
The Horn in the Henry Mountains has one rap bolted route. Everything else has been ground up with varying degrees of style depending on the talent and the difficulty. The pocketed nature of the area lends its self to the approach. This and the remoteness of the crag have slowed the pace of development, so there are some challenges still to be had. There's nothing like casting off with you wits and some hooks!
Jeremy Handren

climber
NV
Sep 22, 2007 - 11:04pm PT
Since trad means no bolts that clearly rules out Elbsandsteingebirge.

Long live the Grit......

C'mon John lets start another range war.
stella

climber
cali
Sep 22, 2007 - 11:13pm PT
devils lake, wisconsin. not a bolt or fixed anchor in the park.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 23, 2007 - 12:09am PT
I haven't climbed at Paradise Forks for decades but I would be delighted to learn that the locals have kept to a slim to no additional bolt ethic on the basalt areas. You can toprope any section of basalt around so forcing up heavily bolted routes would really ugly up the place.

The spectacular Reef of Rock in Tucson's Santa Catalina mountains is still predominantly gear routes if I am not mistaken. Always an adventure to be had out there during the warm half of the year and absolutely no competition for routes.
bob d'antonio

Trad climber
Taos, NM
Sep 23, 2007 - 12:12am PT
Speaking of Richie and Seneca

On Terra Firma

Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Sep 23, 2007 - 12:36am PT
"Since trad means no bolts"

horsesh#t, a pure clean climbing ethic says that, not a traditional ethic alone. bolting has been a part of the tradition for centuries.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 23, 2007 - 12:58am PT
Bolts, we shall always have them with us. But in a misty land far, far away............




From Mountain 42 March / April 1975. True grit!
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Sep 23, 2007 - 01:49am PT
Crimpie and Steve,

I just spent a delightful evening with Jstan, Mighty Hiker, and Khanom. We had dinner together after organizing up coming events. The Facelift has officially been started. Steve, I wish you could make it with you know who. Crimpie I am psyched you are rearranging your schedule to make it. Just to show you,I used to climb before I took on seemingly impossible projects.I will climb again.


Ken
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