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Mark
climber
bend, oregon
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:35pm PT
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the 5.9 start to nutcracker.
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landcruiserbob
Trad climber
the ville, colorado
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:46pm PT
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-Bastille Crack, the move from the flake to the start of the crack.Everybody & their mother make that move.
-Every 5.11 in rifle.
-The first 2 moves on midnight lighting;every greasy dirtbag in the valley has touched it.(sorry boulder problem)
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 20, 2007 - 05:39pm PT
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"the 5.9 start to nutcracker"
Absolutely.
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TradIsGood
Happy and Healthy climber
the Gunks end of the country
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Aug 20, 2007 - 05:48pm PT
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Laurel at Gunks, which Swain calls "the most often done 5.7 in the Gunks." This is probably climbed 10 hours on weekends and dozens of times on weekdays.
It is also the climb where you will most often see someone with a towel or rug swatch for whiping shoes before the start!
If you want to see somebody deck on a 5.7 just hang out here for an hour or two. (NTYWWTDT!)
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Matt
Trad climber
always on the lookout for ed's 5.10 OW van
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:56pm PT
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i was gonna say the starts to sherry's and midterm, on a warm day (guess i'n not alone)
parts of crest jewel are pretty slick, but so low angle it's not hard climbing
some of that glacial polish stuff in and around the meadows too
what about the crux bulge on leanie meanie?
the upper 5.11 (slab) pitch on freeblast (again, in the sun)
twilight zone (yuk)
and of course, a few of the more popular routes at ORG
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Aug 20, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
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Inside of "Generator Crack" and the fist/shoulder/butt-sized sections of "Midterm."
Anything at the Wall of Glass or lower lot at Roubidoux.
Date-less climber's palms on a Friday night. And maybe Saturday.
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Rocky5000
Trad climber
Falls Church, VA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 10:22pm PT
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Many very smooth short climbs along the Potomac, due to the millennia of floods working on the fine-grained schist: Merv's Nerve, Ender, Soapstone, Winter's Tale, the Diehedral, Randomly Vicious, etc. And yet right around the corner one encounters excellent texture, where neither floods nor climbers have done much harm. But nothing teaches you the outer limits of what shoes and balance can do like a couple of years at Carderock.
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E.L. "One"
Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
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Aug 20, 2007 - 10:33pm PT
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Fat Dad & Jeremy,
I'm with you......Stoney Middleton is absolutely the benchmark.
If you're solid on 5.10 in the states, don't even think of attempting anything harder than VS at Stoney. It is the slickest, slimiest, and most un-nerving sh#t I've ever climbed on! Nutcracker at Mission Gorge in San Diego comes in a distant second !!!
Cracko
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Aug 20, 2007 - 11:46pm PT
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If I put up a route and they up the grade later due to polishing do I get the credit for the harder grade?
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 21, 2007 - 12:48am PT
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They call it the Hall of Mirrors for a reason...
If your shoes don't make squeaky sounds when you climb it, like you were rubbing a balloon, it doesn't qualify.
Peace
Karl
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 18, 2015 - 03:48am PT
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This bump is overdue, the Gunks now resemble the name. The first ten feet of everything is like glass.
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mcolombo
Trad climber
Heidelberg, Germany
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Mar 18, 2015 - 03:52am PT
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Freyer Belgum, awesome place but I almost craped myself on the last moves of a route that should have only been like a 5a but the end was so slippery and rounded it seemed trying to hold on to and stand on oiled bowling balls.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 18, 2015 - 05:59am PT
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Not even a question - hands down it's the glass at Devils Lake. Hell, chalk doesn't even stick to the stuff and makes the Bastille Crack look like it's covered with 60 grit sandpaper by comparison.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Mar 18, 2015 - 08:19am PT
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healyja, I have not been back to those blocks in thirty years.
They were slicked out then!!
I can not imagine the Polished starts now, after all the buffing, after decades of top roping!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 18, 2015 - 08:22am PT
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Try sport climbing nearly anywhere in Europe.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2015 - 08:26am PT
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Hey let's not forget the Durrance Route on DeTo.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 08:30am PT
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Mentioned earlier, most routes at Carderock.
Most polish value at 95 degrees and 95% humidity...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mar 18, 2015 - 08:40am PT
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hoipolloi asks, whats beaver street wall?
Hahaha, I think the word "wall" woke up his curiosity.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Mar 18, 2015 - 08:58am PT
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The trough, Big Rock CA
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Mar 18, 2015 - 10:42am PT
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There's a couple back by the water fall at Great Falls Basin which are as polished as granite can get.
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