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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Mar 18, 2015 - 10:51am PT
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I'm thinking 1st pitch of Athlete's Feat (with a mantel to boot) and Moby Dick Center.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Mar 18, 2015 - 11:02am PT
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Hogwash in Tuolumne is slick as hell...that gold glacial polish is unbelievably smooth as everyone knows...makes my hands sweat thinking about some of those polishy runouts...
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rmuir
Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
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Mar 18, 2015 - 11:19am PT
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Two words, one polished place: Baldy Boulders.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 11:27am PT
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Church Bowl Tree may be greasy, but the most polished I've run across has been in river gorges in low water. Anyone done the Muir Gorge recently? If not, it looks like this would be a good year.
Most polished I've encountered on a climb is probably the start of Bridalveil East, although I was never sure if I was really on route.
John
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 11:37am PT
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Yin on the Yin Yang up at Sentinel, squeaky feet out right there.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 12:07pm PT
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C Wall at Quincy Quarries.
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slabbo
Trad climber
colo south
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Mar 18, 2015 - 12:13pm PT
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Clint,,you beat me to it. The only routes of comparable slime would be welsh Slate or maybe , as posted earlier Stoney Middleton in the UK.
Caderrock trales these nightmares by a lot
Strand
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Mar 18, 2015 - 12:33pm PT
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Jleaz,
Did Muir Gorge last year, it was fun. Low water, one mandatory swim and definitely some ultra slick rock.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 01:07pm PT
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Thanks, Inner City.
John
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 01:23pm PT
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Everything at CarderRock.
Classic Crack at Broughton's Bluff...yikes. And stop pawing at Tip City please. It was easy a few years ago, but is starting to surprise me.
I didn't think Ken's Crack was that horrible - but it's been 5 years.
I found Pitch 1 of most routes on Manure Pile and El Cap were slippery. The rock was sweeter the higher you go - showing that the polishers don't get too far.
Solution - you take lead 1. I'll take the next.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 18, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
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The opening moves of the Jackson-Johnson on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon.
Started out 5.8 but slicked up to borderline 5.10 back in the 70s and is likely even harder now.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 10:13am PT
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Burnin' Oil
Trad climber
CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 10:30am PT
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^^ Looks similar to The Great Circle. That brown veneer is super slick.
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ydpl8s
Trad climber
Santa Monica, California
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Jun 21, 2016 - 10:32am PT
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Steve, do you mean Jackson's Wall direct? That has gotten real slippery.
Jackson-Johnson is a route on Hallet I think.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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Jun 21, 2016 - 11:08am PT
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"Ego Booster" and "Ego Buster" at Ragged Mtn CT. I think "Ego Buster" was the really slick one.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 11:40am PT
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White Slabs Direct on Snow Creek Wall*. It's only '5.9' but it usually
has a nice layer of fine sand liberally distributed AND hard to see!
*Leavenworth, WA
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Jun 21, 2016 - 12:45pm PT
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the trough...big rock...easy but greasy
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Jun 21, 2016 - 01:28pm PT
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Most polished, if as in it has had the most polishing done to it, has got to be the cables route on half dome, if you consider it a route.
3 feet wide path, hundreds of feet long of slick as snot rock, while the natural rock to the sites is pretty grippy.
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Jun 21, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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Water Cracks in Tuolomne.
Mission Gorge in San Diego...
Gallwas Crack and Nutcracker always humiliated me with that slick snot.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 21, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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The start of midterm, every route in rifle, the first face crux on Freestone....
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