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slobmonster
Trad climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 19, 2007 - 12:02pm PT
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If Sherry's Crack was sandstone, by now the thing would be fists.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Aug 19, 2007 - 12:22pm PT
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How about Midterm and Trial By Fire?
Ken
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Aug 19, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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Roger that Ken! Midterm sent me for a fifty footer when a fist jam squirted out long ago. Even Tom Frost recalled how slippery that one was on the FA!
My vote goes to the start of every route on Castle Rock in Boulder Canyon. Thirty years ago the start to the Jackson -Johnson was rated 5.8 and was easily two grades harder! Then came the wave......can't even imagine the polish by now.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Aug 19, 2007 - 03:12pm PT
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Church Bowl Tree.
The slabby bit of varnish on There and Back Again in Red Rocks.
The first 4 on the Nose.
There's a giant arch of polish (that goes all the way across the formation) on one of the formations (which one?) in Tuolumne that can blind you at the road if you catch it in the right light. Do any routes cross it?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 19, 2007 - 03:30pm PT
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Water Cracks, T-Meadows...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 19, 2007 - 03:36pm PT
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anything on the apron, with a bullet for "misty beethoven" pure glass.
plus some of those upper pitches on hall of mirrors. according to woodward, who has some experience in this area, the most holdless rok EVAR.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Aug 19, 2007 - 07:18pm PT
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not 'most' but Right side of La Cosita start always 'slips' me up. both times I was on it even. ;)
Great Falls NP, holy sheep deep that stuff is slicker than goose sh#t.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Aug 19, 2007 - 07:28pm PT
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This discussion ends right here! Any route at Stoney Middleton in the english Peak District. The slimiest, most polished rock known to man.
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Aug 19, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
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I, too, was thinking midterm and the church bowl rig.
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Aug 19, 2007 - 11:38pm PT
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Brintons Crack 5.6, Devils Lake, WI.
quartzite thats slippery anyways, probably one of the single most popular routes in the entire Midwest, people been running up and down it daily since the 1940's.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 01:44am PT
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Jamcrack? Really? I don't find it that polished... I think Church Bowl Tree is considerably more polished. What about that slanting rail thing on Midnight Lightning? The crux pitch of The Rostrum, off the ledge seems pretty polished to me. Wait... maybe that's just bad footwork!
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 02:55am PT
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You said "anywhwere"...... Without a doubt it is 'Via delle Guide" on the Torre Grande in the Dolomites. First climbed in 1930 this route probably sees at least five ascents a day and the limestone on the crux move is so polished you can almost see the look of astonishment on your face and 5.5 becomes way harder!
Bruce
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 10:42am PT
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Yo... Spiderwalk... carderock MD.
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AbeFrohman
Trad climber
new york, NY
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Aug 20, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
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I'll give a second for Ken's Crack in the Gunks.
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wilcox510
climber
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Aug 20, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
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Almost every route I've done at American Fork. I wouldn't have thought of Way Rambo or those other IC routes as polished. Some of them definitely show some wear, but they arent slippery.
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overit
Trad climber
Boulder
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Aug 20, 2007 - 03:16pm PT
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Face start of Country Club Crack
Every warm-up at Rifle
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Euroford
Trad climber
chicago
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Aug 20, 2007 - 03:55pm PT
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some of the routes mentioned here show an obvious unfamiliarity with what real polished stuff is all aboot.
though i resulted to draw grabbing to get up that part of country club crack, the term 'polished' never occured to me. i just called it 'hard'.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:09pm PT
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Smoothest - I don't remember the cliff name, but it's in Alaska to the right of the Portage Glacier. The crag that is on the left side toe of a glacier coming down into the Portage glacier is by far the smoothest, most glacier polished, and steepest smooth crag I've ever climbed on - horrendous....
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:17pm PT
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I'm with Jeremy. Anyone who has not climbed at Stoney Middleton has missed the benchmark for polished holds, against which all other polished holds must be compared.
Barring that, I'm willing to consider the Water Cracks as a second. Compared to that, even Misty Beethoven (yes I've done it)is grippy.
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DavisGunkie
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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Aug 20, 2007 - 04:23pm PT
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diedre, squamish
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