B Y conditions?

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bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 16, 2007 - 01:18am PT
I want to do this thing (again) but it got a lot harder (weird huh?). Anyway, just wanted to see if anybody's been "up there" lately .... don't want to do one of these!


Whew!

Thanks for any beta ahead of time - jb
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Aug 16, 2007 - 01:31am PT
Johnny Rock rides again! You're obligated to provide a detail-rich report.


As for conditions, I have no clue. Best of luck on/in the high lonesome.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 01:31am PT
Too funny asking for beta on your own route!

Course, I've brough topos on climbs I've done 5 times.

Bolts were replaced, that's good news just in case.

Has it really got harder (knobs breaking) or is that kind of climbing just something you have to get used to again before it feels ok?

It would be fun to take pictures of you return flight..I mean ascent!

Glad it hasn't taken you very long to get way better than us all again so soon after your accident.

Peace

Karl
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Aug 16, 2007 - 02:20am PT
THAT IS THE SH#TNIZZLE RIGHT THERE!!!

as Blinny my post. WHOA MAN!


that's a rad shot. Who are the climbers? And is that angle correct?

gnar
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:10am PT
Rob,

For the caption and other photos, see the previous B Y thread from May:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=375380

"Thierry Renault (sp?) falling on the 2nd pitch. He ends up below the belayer (Wolfgang Gullich). They went home after that."
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:10am PT
Goddam nOObs!

B- Y is STEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEP - that's all you need to know.

Bring a full rack, with 2 number 4 friends for the wide section.

Good luck noob.




































































God that was fun! Sorry JB
Wild Bill

climber
Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:11am PT
PS - was in the meadows this past weekend, and it was sunny.

Hope that helps.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2007 - 03:51am PT
Thierray (sp?) Renault falling, Wolfgang Gulich belaying. TR ends up about 8-10 feet below WG and rebounds up into him. Wolfgang gets smashed against the rock pretty hard. They bail.

I don't think Wolfgang ever went back. I think Thierray (sp?)) went back and did it later?

Gimme some beta please... this thing is horrendous,

heh heh, jb
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 04:04am PT
Yeah, you know what they say..."If you have to ask..."

I mean, it's a sport climb for christ'ssake, clippity do da, where's the beta in "pinch that knob, then the next one, then the next one, repeat a hundred times and don't let go except to clip the bolt'?

but I guess when you're trying to make the move up from bouldering (even if it's highball) then anything with a rope seems daunting.



Still, I guess it's fairly bold for a sport route (cause the guys who put it up were seriously distrubed or lazy) so don't try to cozy up to the big boys by gettin in too deep.


Or what the heck, go for it. It's only air anyway, there's nothing safer than falling.




Hitting, on the other hand, is kind of hit or miss.







;-|

K
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 04:11am PT
But since we're on the subject

Why do they call it "Bachar Urine" anyway. Did he piss himself up there?











(sorry Dave)

Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 04:14am PT
Don't pay any attention to those posts above, written in my name by some imposter.

Now John, I'm glad you asked about that route. I'm certain that it would be suicide to attempt such a line in anything less than a premier climbing shoe like ACOPA brands shoes.

Yes, make sure they are ACOPAs or Yu'll die fur Sure.

ACOPA, so you'll edge instead of ledge...
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:13am PT
Warm up on this....Black Out 5.10+ (F. A. Kurt Smith on lead;..J. Bachar taking photos.....the rest of us just biting our nails....Kurt's The Man!)

andanother

climber
Aug 16, 2007 - 10:16am PT
the Tuolumne SAR guys retro-bolted it so they could run laps on it for training. It's way safer now. No need to worry.
Hawkeye

climber
State of Mine
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:03am PT
yeah man, heard the FA guys were way cheap, didnt want to spend money on equipping that sport route properly ya dig? contact them and maybe they'll agree to a few additional bolts.








too funny, sorry i couldnt resist.


but dont feel bad. i was approaching one of the most popular cliffs in a popular area with the guidebook author once and we frickin got lost on the 5 minute approach.

good luck to you jb.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 16, 2007 - 11:23am PT
We just threw a TR on Blackout, man that rig is serious!

Cutter beauty though...

Those are some strange lo0oking bolts up there. What they heck are they (round eye bolts)?







PS. As far as knowing if the route has gotten harder, I think there's really only one person who could tell us that...
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2007 - 03:10pm PT
k-man, Those are Taper eye bolts - $8 each, 5,000+ lbs. outward pull, 8,000 lbs. shear. They should be quite bomber still.

I'll be top roping Blackout, thank you.

I know B Y didn't get harder - I got older and weaker....

I think I can lead the first two pitches - it's that third pitch I'm worried about - 5.10c run out friction and dime edging. Whew!
ron gomez

Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
Aug 16, 2007 - 03:17pm PT
I'd venture to say John, yer well on the recovery road! I'd like to come on up and watch this....uh this has nothing to do with the naked climbing thread you had up a few weeks ago???? Here's some beta for you.... try not to look too far left or right...you know what I'm talking about! Take care bro!
Peace
Ron
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Aug 16, 2007 - 04:01pm PT
Those are Taper eye bolts ... they should be quite bomber still.

They were totally tight, as if they were put in a week ago. Still, I'll never clip those [two] beauties, though I wish I could.


The book says .12a if you come in from the side, and that Cos did the first all-free (love that new FA info!). When I was there I couldn't /see/ where you'd climb in from the left...12a sure gets hard out there!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Aug 16, 2007 - 04:07pm PT
John...I got older and weaker decades ago!.......(join the crowd....it's fun to be old and weak.....) You always have an excuse, and you get to hop on all the cool moderate climbs that are fun as hell......
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2007 - 04:24pm PT
k-man,
The 12a start is actually the first pitch of "Cheatstone" (Coz did it without the cheatstone - pretty tough bouldering at the start!). Blackout is really only that one pitch off the ledge. I think I did a weird first pitch start with one bolt that come in from the ground on the far right side and makes its way up and left towards Blackout...

My memory is fried too!
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