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pFranzen
Boulder climber
Portland, OR
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Aug 16, 2007 - 07:14pm PT
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"Hitting, on the other hand, is kind of hit or miss."
I'd say it's more 'hit' than 'miss', but that's just my experience...
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Aug 16, 2007 - 07:47pm PT
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A few people I've talked to about Medlicott have said quite a number routes have gotten harder over there due to broken holds...
Someone fill in the "euro whipper" on tied off knobs story(s) here...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 16, 2007 - 08:10pm PT
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You wanna talk broken knobs...I've got one word for you:
Pinnacles.
Where 5.9s turn to 5.12s.
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Aug 16, 2007 - 08:25pm PT
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B Y too hard and scary, climb the route off to the right.
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malabarista
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Aug 17, 2007 - 09:29pm PT
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If you do climb it again John, please write a TR. It would be really cool too hear your impressions.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 18, 2007 - 12:20am PT
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I hope you all won't be too annoyed that I am mildly gratified to hear that what I was talking about decades ago seems to be coming to pass.
The erosion issues that have long been a concern to desert climbers are now being experienced on harder rock.
We really need to take the long view when establishing routes. Putting all the emphasis on the "performance" of the FA has untoward effects down the road.
Not picking a fight (or duel LOL). Just trying to make observations that may be useful when considering resource management.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 18, 2007 - 02:48pm PT
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Piton Ron, do you have any ideas? How would you engineer routes
so the rock doesn't break?
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Aug 18, 2007 - 03:15pm PT
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Kelly,
Don't you sport climb?
Sika holds the world together.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 18, 2007 - 03:37pm PT
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Some amusing stuff here, especially Karl's. You'd think the OP was some sort of troll or something...
Ron has an interesting point. In geological terms, everything we climb on is temporary. In even a few million years, nothing we currently climb on will be recognizable, and many of the things we climb on change on a much shorter time scale. A few change on a human time scale, whether due to natural causes (erosion, rockfall, earthquake) or human effects (pitons, "cleaning", etc). It was more obvious when pitons were widely used, and is more obvious on softer rocks. But most who have been climbing for even a decade have seen, or at least know of, significant change - look at the Half Dome Northwest Face TR, with large flakes falling off since the 1970s. Most such changes aren't attributable to human causes - but humans can speed them up.
Human impacts are now often more diffuse - breaking off of knobs and flakes, accumulation of chalk and rubber, polishing (especially from toproping), and of course the broader environmental impacts - waste, trails, increased numbers. I suspect they're not a real concern on the B-Y, unless people are toproping the crap out of it, or practicing hooking, and causing incidental damage.
I climbed in Britain in the mid 1970s. At that time, many moderate routes in north Wales had been polished and eroded - by nailed boots, in use since the late 19th century. Use of nailed boots stopped in the 1960s, but the damage, although often superficial, is very visible. Use of modern boots and now shoes may have helped, but increased numbers may cancel it out.
Climate change may be another biggie in terms of affecting routes and areas, not to mention access and a whole bunch of bigger issues. Double the rainfall, or intensity of rainfall, and you magnify the erosive effects.
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jerr
climber
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Aug 19, 2007 - 10:32am PT
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I think that would be awesome if you did it again.
I was just out there staring at it really tired from climbing Temple.
It is such an amazing line.
I still really want to climb it as well . I think i need a few days/weeks knob climbing or else .... haha
Send it
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Aug 20, 2007 - 06:43pm PT
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I wonder how many FA parties repeat their routes?
Which ones and why?
Mark my words, one ethics controversy of the future will be whether to retexturize crux holds. More attachments for the Bosh.
Peace
Karl
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Aug 20, 2007 - 06:55pm PT
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B Y conditions? Now what are you up to?
Honey, you know I don't want to belay you on that monster "but you better bring me along to watch". Plus, I want to have the full use of the good camera too.
Deal? ;)
AF
P.S.
Now don't be planning to have my arm working by next month even if you do drag me through all the exercises yourself.
Yet in a year...
Wait a minute... Uh Bachar? "What are you thinking?"
Is this to keep me distracted from getting a dog?
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:13pm PT
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Don't worry Ana, I will belay John on the thing.
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Colt
climber
Midpines
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:31pm PT
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Karl,
Your words are noted. In fact I remeber hearing about some problems in Fontainebleau were "reestablished" with carefully applied concrete to restore the original texture. This was several years ago...and I don't really have any other details. But it gives way to your proposal that it will be a common practice for crag stuards.
I'll go a step further to say that the group of which you speak will be some strange hybrid between a climbing renegade and a museum curator. They will be both loved and hated amonst the climbing community.
On that note, it is a hard thing to own the fact that climbing, at least in the way that it is currently pursued, is not sustainable.
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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Aug 20, 2007 - 07:57pm PT
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While the B&Y doesn't seem to be in much danger of losing it's knobs, there are many other routes at Tuolumne that are either much harder now than their original rating or they are impossible. Some domes seem to have knobs that are quickly pulled out/off (Canopy World, Central Cottage) while others like East Cottage and Medlicott seem to have knobs that will last forever. Thin edge face routes seem to have similiar issues. Drew and I were discussing whether Mystery Achievement on Hammer will ever go again. How many ascents has it had?
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Aug 21, 2007 - 12:46pm PT
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Isn't B-Y on the low angle slab on the dome near just left of the center of this picture? Ha ha. From Tenaya Peak last Tuesday afternoon.
Enroute to Dozier Dome...last Thursday...
Dry as a BONE in Tuolumne last week. Seems like its coolin' off a tad too.
Cheers!
-Brian in SLC
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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Aug 21, 2007 - 02:54pm PT
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John, if you are going to go to all that trouble, you should probably just climb Peace. Ron will love you for it! I know you guys are such buddies now that Lonnie hangs with you.
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Dakman
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Aug 21, 2007 - 03:25pm PT
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JB,
And which model of your Acopa shoes will you use for the send this time?
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