Biting the Hand that Feeds You

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Seamstress

Trad climber

Yacolt, WA

Jun 30, 2010 - 08:07pm PT

Hate to tell you this - America has been discovered, and there are some granite walls out there.

With obesity epidemic and financial support for the Parks and Forests dwindling, I hope more people discover that there is life enriching activity beyond their couches and internet cafes. If these activities cause rising body counts, the public will demand a stop to it in this very litigious society that we live in. If an old timer can show folks the ropes, provide them with a guidebook, and maintain the fixed gear, that may mitigate the carnage and provide a critical mass of public support for protecting these place for adventure, real or perceived.

We all have a different degree of risk we are willing to accept. Your mundane is my thriller. So laugh at me, soak me for a few bucks, you still can't tarnish my joy at clawing my way up a lowly trade route. Bet I get a whole lot more joy out of this life. He who dies with a smile on their face and inspired the most smiles for others is the biggest winner.

Let me go back on line and see what other prodcuts I need to buy from the "sell-outs"....thanks for helping me break out a little beyond my cubicle life.

Captain...or Skully

Big Wall climber

Transporter Room 2

Jun 30, 2010 - 08:24pm PT

I don't think it matters WHAT you're climbing, whether a Trade Route or some Runout nightmare. I've always been told & agreed that you don't alter an existing route, unless it alters itself, like a piece falls off, or some such.
Hey, I hope you enjoy "clawing your way up a Trade Route". I just hope that you will consider the features of the stone, and use them as much as they can be used. Chicken bolts are just that. Chicken.
Yeah, I've been scared, so what? I think scared is part of the program.......Didn't drill my way out, though. That would be Lame.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Sep 21, 2015 - 04:55am PT

This,BUMP - for an anti-Sloan, vote.
The thread, gives context to the two threads currently trending on the occasion of the Face Lift, and a request for $$, to pay for a"new?" rope for the circus swing, and one that asks for approval an appreciation of un-zen smillee Jerc, eric spelled with a K.
In the years I've known of him and his Additions? to climbing I've seen him as a warning of the things to come. . .
(Lots and lots of 'climbers' - Smug ,entitled in the prime of the narcissism of youth. . . )
Well those things are here now and eric with a K is a sorta king of the weak kneed gym spawn who want to reduce the risk in climbing to Nil.

There is nothing wrong with wanting to be safe - safer than what's been fine to marginally safe to outright suicidal- deadly in your face. . . For years that's the way it was and is ...but it is changing. . .

Climbing is a Verb even when hanging around in space, that's movement.
Fifty years of concentrated debate and increasing standards and technology have shown climbers to err, on the side of less holes in stone = better, more desirable style of the process.
Any troglodyte can hammer their way out . . . . What's the point your missing the whole game.
Go build a wooden house if you want to hammer a lot and leave something permanent in your wake .
Houses serve a purpose that benefits humanity, the reason that you gave for your antics twelve years ago or was it ten (as I said?)

We endeavor to climb,
To survive and experience enlightened thought if not enlightenment out-right.
Reducing the joy of the experience by adding a cheater bolt is wrecking the place for every single person who follows.
That seems to be breaking the one universal rule:
D0 N0T F0uK the place up leave no trace, add only dust and sweat and blood .
gain insight - if you can not proceed, without resorting to changing the route or the challenge of the route, you must retreat - before you wreck it for some one more stout and up to the challenge.

I know Erik is well meaning and a very solid bloke who's mastery of politics and how to blow smoke up the right Aztecs (0LD 0NEs) butts. (And swety pies too #lovYoga) is always on display.
It is sad that times are what they are, (or maybe you all agree with addition of reduced risk at any cost to the point that cracks become bolted romps.)
The once staunch proponents of the code,? they, have lost their blood lust for keeping
The Myth of purity alive.
In getting up the things we get up, no body is pure, but to strive for better style and less impact and evidence of our passage was once the most important part of the game, not - top out at all costs.
Now dose any of that make sense?

Buy your own damn rope swing !

you punter,
get a grip on those tits your growing
and think before you hammer anything!

clinker

Trad climber

Santa Cruz, California

Sep 21, 2015 - 05:25am PT

I am surprised at the sheer numbers of virgins and priests here. Hold on to your sheep.

ECF

Big Wall climber

Colona, CO

Sep 21, 2015 - 06:38am PT

Good stuff from the way back, when we actually discussed topics.

You want purity?
Go find it, it isn't in any guidebook.
It's been done, bragged about and sold already.

And for the record Coiler, it was the third ascent that renamed Wild Apes.
I did the SA the week after you put it up.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Sep 21, 2015 - 06:53am PT

How about the no cams or chalk purity of Dresden climbing. Arnold and Albert were instrumental in establishing the Dresden ethic, they then came to Patagonia and put bolts next to cracks.
Purity is what suits people at a particular time and place....subject to change bro.