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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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Ah those loose flakes. But I'm sure you'd agree that they're part of the game and needed! Have to use them some times. Just have to hope you flat foot them enough so they don't blow...Wish I had a chance to climb Poker Face before it was retro'd. Does anyone (Clint?) know if Aces and Eights has been retro'd? Have mixed feelings about the FA adding to those older climbs but I go along with ethic of FA. Otherwise I contact them to see if OK to restore them to original pro. Foggy memories make it hard too because sometimes guide is wrong as in case of GBG. Just have to do the best you can when rebolting as Roger and Clint et. al. try to do.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
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Don,
> Just curious ... who placed that bolt on the 4th pitch of the NA Wall?
Did you mean on the 3rd pitch, mentioned on p.164 of The Vertical World of Yosemite?
Robbins states there that it was placed by Hennek and Lauria, but Don Peterson and Mead Hargis chopped it (by 1970).
Of course, it was not the first or last bolt added or chopped from an aid route. Sometimes feature break off or people don't have the exact tool for the placement at hand.... Usually not good but it happens sometimes.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Tony,
I would not worry too much about missing the original bolted version of Poker Face, given that there are such a large number of largely similar climbs in the Valley. I know, each climb is a bit unique, but there are many others with runout thrills, shall we say.
I may have had notes on Aces and Eights, from when Roger and I did bolt replacement there in 2010, but I can't find them at present.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1265655
Roger replaces original bolts (based on judging from guidebook topos) with ASCA hangers, so you could go there and probably identify added bolts (or compare to the guidebook topo yourself).
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Of course your right Clint. Was responding to Kabala's climbing of said Poker which must of been before retro. I do like the look of the start of Eights however.......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
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Bump for the love of slabs...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 15, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Climbing bump.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2014 - 12:02am PT
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Nice edges leading to a good Bump!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 13, 2014 - 01:16am PT
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All I've ever done on the Arches Apron is Arches Terrace, but that was back in the "bad old days" of Kletter Spider shoes, pitons, and a few bolts in place. Anybody done that route lately? What's the "modern" rating?
It was pretty unprotected then (1965), but Pete Williamson and I had a great time. I'd love to try some of the newer routes in Boreal Ballet Gold's!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 13, 2014 - 10:58am PT
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I've stood before that route a number of times. Can't muster the gumption to run out the glossy 5.11 face moves.
Those who ever did it in Vibram; you blow my mind.
A lot of loose crap coming off that face last time I checked. The base of that apron gets hammered when it rains.
What if.... I did an aid traverse of the entire Royal Arch. Epic! I think about it every but likely never will.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Apr 13, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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Spider.....Ratings are just consensus systems. It's interesting that folks want to "modernize" the ratings system. I don't know what that means really since it just seems to confuse a system. At any rate, since slab climbing is practiced by few (and most of the few have been at it a while) I think 5.8 rating is fair. It's not 5.9. Consider though how Alex Honnold is quoted somewhere as saying one of his scariest moments was trying to reverse the traverse across the slabs while soloing it. All of the aprons are beautiful places (Glacier, Middle and Royal) frequented by few these days. True adventures in solitude can be found and Arches Terrace is a reasonable way to experience them.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 13, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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I haven't done any of these Apron friction climbs in sticky rubber. That was a long time ago. I had Kletter Spiders on the advice of Chris Fredericks; I wish I'd stuck with Kronhofers on Arches Terrace! I've used RR Verappes on GPA...Grack Marginal and Patio Pinnacle, and they were far better than Kronies.
My last few trips to Yos, I avoided GPA because of the supposed rockfall hazards.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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You're only as good as your Kronies...
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Apr 13, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 13, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
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My last few trips to Yos, I avoided GPA because of the supposed rockfall hazards You're missing some fun and due to other people's undue caution, you're also missing 20 uncrowded classics.
I believe GPA is reasonably safe from Harry Daley (left side of Monday Morning Slab) all the way to Goodrich right side.
Well......if you believe that absence of recent rockfall indicates lower chance of your getting it.
When logically, it might be just reversed. Where stuff has come down may now be lower likelihood.
Ya pays yer money and takes yer choice but I've had some fun on the GPA lately. Even though I've now been rained off two times recently (after completing the climbs).
And that of course is My Not So Humble Opinion, usual disclaimers apply etc etc etc.
Back on topic: gotta love Royal Arches Apron. Great way to keep in tune for Tuolumne classics.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 13, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
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I LOVE slab climbing! Maybe this next Facelift?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 12, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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Bump!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 13, 2015 - 06:31am PT
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STOKED
GREAT BUMP !!
THNX PYRO!
AND OF COURSE Steve.Grossman.
Edit; wow, love the shirt and this slabbysiht, hahaha, now that is climbing content!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Feb 13, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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Does anyone have info on the bolted route when you're coming down on the last rappel from the Royal Arches? Looks super super thin....dime edges thin, maybe less.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 13, 2015 - 10:54am PT
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Great pics in the OP, worth a second or third viewing!
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