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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 16, 2007 - 08:43pm PT
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Late one Fall long ago, Fig and I climbed Shakey Flakes. Put up in 1973 by Chris Falkenstein, Ken Bishop, Edd Kuropat, Tom Carter and Mark McPherran, the route is an edgefest with a wonderfully perfect crux.
Meyer Guide area topo ala 1982.
The opening pitch.
Fig on the 5.10d second lead.
One of my favoite slab climbing images, flat handing and reaching for a dime.
The pause that refridges.
Starting up the crux 5th pith.
Fig following the superb crux section. Perfectly spaced and shaped edges, so good that free soloing the route crossed my mind even at 5.11c!
The last hard climbing on the 7th pitch at 10c.
Fabulous route that needs a little more work to re-establish and refit it. Probably the first chalkless ascent also. LOL
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Jun 16, 2007 - 09:25pm PT
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Beautiful, Steve!
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snakefoot
climber
cali
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Jun 16, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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Bitchin stink buggin, thanks for postin
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jun 16, 2007 - 09:40pm PT
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Cool Steve! Is that the Cobra in the top of the last photo? Looks like it.
JD
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jun 16, 2007 - 10:19pm PT
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way cool - thanks for the nice post Steve
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 17, 2007 - 01:43am PT
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Is that the Cobra in the top of the last photo?
The Cobra is further left, pretty much directly above, just a bit right, of the 5.6 Royal Arches route's penji bolts. It's to the left of the the big corner and arched roof system that comprises the proper Royal Arches formation. Shaky Flakes goes up under the big arch.
Steve's first, panoramic, photo shows a big, undercut roof left of the Arches formation; the Cobra goes just right of that, but the crack is not visible in the photo. The pitches to get from the 5.6 RA penji to the Cobra Crack go up the smooth, 5.9/5.10 slab above the uppermost grey flake, probably with ancient, rusted, 1/4" bolts for pro. I went up there once, and promptly bailed. Cracks I understand. Runout slab? Not my idea of fun. Tobin Sorenson went up and freed the Cobra with his brother, but I'm comfortable knowing my abilities were/are not on a par with his.
Royal Arches Direct (Robbins, McCracken(?)) goes somewhere through the roofs in Steve's other photos. The Drip Factor is rumored to be horrendous.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jun 17, 2007 - 12:19pm PT
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Thanks Tom. I'm familiar w/ the Cobra, just right of the big eyebrow. Shakey Flakes seems to be directly under it, but under the big arch. Cool vantage looking up on that last photo.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Jun 17, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
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blast from the past, nice stuff...Gene Drake used to tell me that EB's held better on edges than any of this "new fangled stuff" (I think Stealth 2 was the hot chit then...)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 17, 2007 - 12:51pm PT
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Jerry, no mistaking the Cobra. You are correct. Definitely an unusual perspective. Any of you guys that have done the Cobra free or on aid, what is the protection scene up there with modern equipment? The early stories from the FFA are exciting to say the least but gear has improved dramatically and I would like to follow in Tobin's wake some time.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 22, 2007 - 11:16am PT
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If I can just get my foot to stay on this...bump.
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wiclimber
Trad climber
devil's lake, wi
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Jun 22, 2007 - 11:24am PT
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Something is amiss.
I see no chalk bags on these guys. Photoshopped out maybe?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 22, 2007 - 12:07pm PT
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Wow, those first two climbing shots are fab, looks like a night scene, WTF-O.
I did Shaky Flakes just after Fires came out. I had this beautiful pair of EBs resoled with Contact rubber, the schnizzle back then. Took 'em out one day to the base of El Cap, and forgot them there.
The next day we headed over to some face climbing. My buddy had a new pair of Fires, which we shared by sending them down the trail line. I got to lead what was then the .11c crux, it went real smooth like. Now they rate it .11a...new rubber lowered the grade? Perhaps.
3rd class it?? Boy, all balls, no brains!! I thought that .10d was SCARY!
I'd love to go back and do that route, but like so many classics of yester-year, I am afraid of the old bolts. What are we going to do about this, it's a crisis.
As for the Cobra, I've been looking at that for years. But like others, I'm afraid of Tobin-age bolts. I believe that Clint recently mentioned that he'd done it. Clint, did you rap from the top or manage your way from the ground?
Cheerio...
:- k
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durban
climber
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Jun 22, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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cool thread. here's me on the rambler, from which we got a good look at some of shakey flakes. we'd heard some bolts were missing from shakey flakes. anyone know?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 22, 2007 - 12:32pm PT
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Funny, I heard a bolt was missing from Rambler, 2nd pitch...
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jun 22, 2007 - 02:03pm PT
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I caught a big tumbling fall on the Rambler about ten years ago. Jim Lundeen was leading. He came whipping off and I went running down hill with all kinds of rope coming down at me. Bastard went back up and did the same thing a second time. I was the freaked one. He came down and asked if I wanted to give it a go. We bailed.
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John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
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Jun 22, 2007 - 02:09pm PT
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Somebody give a shout to Greg Barnes to put this on the list. Looks great, and without the looming threat from above that the Apron has. Great old shots. Chalkless! Nicely done.
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durban
climber
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Jun 22, 2007 - 02:17pm PT
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haha, where you see me standing in the picture is where the bolt's missing (it's the first pitch, not the 2nd). my partner had plenty of time to take the shot while i debated whether to continue.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 22, 2007 - 03:19pm PT
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Classic shots, Steve! Thanks for sharing. I remember having fun on it in the mid-80s (with Fires).
http://www.safeclimbing.org/areas/california/yosemitefree.htm
reports:
Shaky Flakes Replaced 30 bolts. All belay bolts are 3/8". Almost all lead bolts are 3/8". THERE ARE BOLTS MISSING ON PITCHES 4-6!! 12/97 ASCA
As for the Cobra, the first (5.8) pitch above the Royal Arches pendulum point has all new bolts (possibly retroed; someone did a new route above it). The second pitch (5.9, which has the interesting step across the wet streak) has mostly original 3/16" or 1/4" Star-Dryvin bolts - it needs to be fixed (as of June 2004; I have not been back on it since) and can be done quickly. It had a missing bolt just before stepping across the streak. The traversing pitches after that are fine and do not rely on any ancient bolts, although a few could be upgraded. The bolt belay in the final corner has an ASCA bolt, and the top belay is fine.
Photos at: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/04617/index.htm
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 22, 2007 - 05:23pm PT
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Great pictures Clint! Thanks for the update.
As for Shakey Flakes, makes you wonder about those missing bolts.
For example, why are they missing after the rebolting effort? Should somebody go up and replace them; if so, how do you know where the missing ones go?
On Rambler, the ASCA site says:
Replaced 20 bolts. All anchor bolts and most protection bolts are 3/8" 12/97 Chris McNamara, Jim Herson
:- k
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 23, 2007 - 01:48am PT
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I enjoyed Shakey Flakes. I had heard the crux was 11b when I led it, but the crux pitch was like a breath of fresh (hard) air since at least it had pretty ok pro.
I remember a pitch up high where my partner did a 10a move with no pro in sight and could have slide a long way to finally launch over a small roof.
I wonder if I can still handle so much fun and excitement?
Peace
Karl
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Larry
Trad climber
Bisbee
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Jun 23, 2007 - 10:20am PT
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Tried it with EBs and Contacts. No go.
Led all the pitches in Fires!
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jun 23, 2007 - 07:17pm PT
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I'm surprised nobody has asked, but I'd really like to know:
For those beautiful shots of the opening pitches in the dark, what was the camera setup? Did you have 1/4 second shutter-speeds and just hold real still (both the photographer and the climbing subject)? Or was there a lot of moonlight (in which case, how did the stars come out so bright? the sky looks like a long-exposure type of picture).
Anyways, I think the pictures are beautiful and if they were mine I'd consider them the prize of my collection.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 25, 2007 - 11:33am PT
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Glad you like the pics but the first couple are just good old fashioned under exposures with no trickery at all. Bright shiny granite fooled the light meter. I posted these shots of Greasy But Groovy over on Welcome to Kevin Worrall but here they are again.
Fig starting the first pitch.
Following the second.
Pondering the thirty foot runout up the wave to the first bolt on pitch three.
Into the hole at last!
More difficult climbing on the third. I am about in the same position that Ricky A fell from on the FA before deciding to place the second bolt visible here!
Fig and I did Shakey Flakes in preparation for GBG. Greasy But Groovy was a very mysterious undertaking back when I was asking around. Nobody had been on it and the name alone seemed to invoke a good clench among the folks that were aware of its reputation. I think that Fig and I did the third repeat of the first three pitches before the short October days sent us down.
I recall nothing of note until the thirty foot runout at the bottom of pitch three. The wall steepens and the entire pitch looks like a mirage with hangers at first. A little rubbernecking and the celebrated hole shows itself as the only visible feature. Immediately, its all silver dollar edges and every move feels 5.10. I remember being so absorbed that I was a little startled to suddenly see the beacon of security just a couple moves away! To call it a hole is generous when you get to it and can't even catch your breath. A quick glance down the wave face to Fig was the wrong idea and the adrenalin surf was up! Surging back on the tiny edges again for my hands, I smeared with the left and foot dynoed high into the hole. My right foot missed the back of the saucer and just caught the lip. Unable to press it out, of course, the left foot begins to ooze downward along with the rest of me. "Fig, I'm coming off!" I yelled as the ooze turned into a squirt, then a gush, then a torrent. I looked down at Fig hastily hauling in rope through his belay plate as I went geek skiing on by. Eventually l passed the stance and began sliding on my side down the lower angled intermediate run coming up. About ten feet below the belay I suddenly stopped. Fig had reeled in no less than seven arm lengths of rope! After the usual niceties and a moment's recollection, I swarmed back up to the belay. Awash in adrenaline and with much less fear of the consequences, I didn't wobble the second time around and stood up proudly in the beacon hole.
Then the hard climbing actually starts and the entire coin collection is in play. The thin work doesn't let up for the rest of the pitch. Relentless crimping, Suicide style as JL pointed out. All this fun and more since neither of us carried chalkbags back then.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jun 25, 2007 - 11:48am PT
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Whatever your camera was doing, those pics are astounding.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 25, 2007 - 12:21pm PT
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Funny how in face climbing some little feature get's larger than life.
That stupid Hole on GBG. I was so relieved when I was reaching out to grab it, only to find that it was less than bomber and mantling it was it's own problem. Clipping the bolt though...Priceless!
Falling out of the hole..Shudder..glad for you the bark was less than the bite and your angels kept you right side up!
Peace
Karl
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2007 - 10:45am PT
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Nothing like a stellar belay to boost your confidence either! Fig was reeling in big time on that dive. Did you do the rest of the route Karl and what do you recall about the upper pitches?
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GDavis
Trad climber
SoCal
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Jun 27, 2007 - 01:32pm PT
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Great post! Impressive climbing as well :O
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Roger Brown
climber
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Jun 29, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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I have been trying to replace bolts in this area for two seasons now. Since the hardest lead I have ever done was a 5.5, this project has been a real challenge. Last season I tried to aid my way up the Arches Direct, but bailed at around 100' up. I just "ain't the man" for that job. Now this season (against the advice of Greg and others) I decided I would come in from the top. The grand plan was to fix down to the top of GBG, pull my ropes and have access to gobs of stuff that needs replacing. Like 100s of bad bolts. Well, to make a long story short, it took three trips to haul everything in,( and I remember saying, "I would hate to have to haul this stuff back out of here"), and three days to haul it all back out. Don't get me wrong, I tried. I had lowered off 600' when I ran into some major problems. I guess I just wasn't "the man" for that job either. At any rate I got everything out and I am home now. In a few more days I should be healed up enough to try again. This time its back to the "Valley" to try again from the bottom. I have a much beter understanding now on how difficult this is going to be. No wonder nobody answered my post a few weeks ago when I was looking for a rope gun to help me get my ropes up there. It is really going to take someone special to get this job done. Like I said before, I will provide everything and haul it to the base. Someone has to lead the pitches. You lead and I'll jug, haul ropes, and belay. If you got what it takes to lead the pitches on old bolts, maybe I got what it takes to jug off those same old bolts. Ron, Dean, Tim, Tommy, anybody up for this??? Longo, you did the first ascent, know anyone that could get those ropes up there? Ah, to be 20 years younger, would you go for it?
I'll be around next week sometime, I'm not real good at begging, so I may not even ask for help, but you all know me, and you know why I'm there.
Roger Brown
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 29, 2007 - 03:35pm PT
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Roger,
Wow, very impressive effort. Too bad it didn't get you into the top of the route after all that work!
I thought you would get a response from some of the local slab experts. aldude? Karl? J?
I am out of town until July 8, but after that I could help you get up there. I can't lead Greasy But Groovy (tried it once and did not want to go over the overlap up to the hole). But I could easily get up Arches Terrace, or we could rap in via the Cobra / Arches Direct. Or, if we could figure out how to make a 40-50' cheater stick, we could refine the new sport of slab-aiding. Here's an example with my 20' cheater stick (we aid climbers are always looking for new adventures):
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Roger Brown
climber
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Jun 30, 2007 - 02:02pm PT
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Clint,
Yea, I'm thinking along the cheater stick line also. Headed off to the hardware store when it opens. That thin walled metal electrical conduit in different diameters has me thinking. Anything we could get up in this area would be a great start. Coming down the Arches Direct was an option but I backed off because of all the loose stuff that might get dislodged. The safety of folks that might be below is always a big issue for me when working from the top down. I would be up for trying it from the bottom up again. You know it is said to have no confirmed 2nd ascent, but it is rumored that Bridwill and Kor did it. The lower pitches are reportedly the easiest, so thats why I tried it. It could be that I was off route when I bailed. I have been called "Off Route Roger" more than once. I will probably spend next week here and be in line at Camp-4 next Saturday. Jesse, if you read this send me your e-mail. I need to figure out how to stay in the Valley over one week legally.
Roger Brown
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Well it's a few days since this thread has seen any action. I want to thank Clint here, in front of God and everybody, for his generous offer to help me get some ropes fixed in this area. Hey, this is a big deal! Other than Greg and his climbing partners, only 2 people from this forum have ever offered to help. Nanook and Darnell would be those 2. Oh yea, that big organization the ASCA? That would be Greg. Period. Living out of the back of his rig like a homeless person, providing bolts, hangers, drill bits, and guidance to volunteers wanting to assist him in his efforts. NO ONE GETS PAID! If Greg was capable of leading this stuff he would. This project is not going to be easy, but with just one person like Clint, something will get done.
There, I feel better now :-)
Roger Brown
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:16pm PT
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Hey Rodge, Clint just pointed me to the end of this thread. Crazy wild stuff you propose! Perhaps one reason for the slow response is that you're talking about doing Royal Arches stuff in mid-summer. Right now it's way to hot for that hard friction stuff. Maybe consider the Apron on Middle? Quicksilver would be an awesome one to start on.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:23pm PT
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BUMP FOR THE QUICKSILVER REBOLT
I've got tuning forks you can borrow...
always wanted to climb it...
hell, depending on when you do the work, I'll come help out.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 10, 2007 - 07:44pm PT
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Roger, as I posted in Kelly's thread, I'll try to find you on Thursday morning ([Edit: my car hood is replaced, ready to roll]).
FYI, Arches Direct had a second ascent by Kor and Pratt - the story is in Kor's Beyond the Vertical, p.152. Pretty darn scary.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 27, 2007 - 08:40pm PT
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Back a few days ago from second round of rebolting at the Arches Apron with Roger and Ryan.
The first round of rebolting is described at:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=416237&msg=416458#msg416458
Roger's bolt replacement count is up to 92 and rising. All of Friday the 13th, Midlife Crisis, and Reefer Madness (except missing bolt on p2) are replaced. Greasy But Groovy is done except for 1-2 bolts on p8 that will be fixed shortly. Missing bolt #5 on The Rambler p1 replaced (thanks to Dan Urban for reporting it - discovering that on lead was not fun!). The five 1/4" bolts on p1 will be fixed shortly. The missing bolt at the crux of Shaky Flakes p5 is replaced. All bolts on pitches 3-6 are checked and accounted for (all but that one were previously replaced by ASCA on 12/97). I will post the story and photos of that bolt separately.
the climbs we worked on. (Actually I worked on Double Trouble and The Violent Bear it Away with Melissa in December 2006).
For fun, the crux of Arches Direct - climb tree, then muddy A5 crux left of tree, then second tree and upper hummock corner to headwall.
Nobody was lining up for the 3rd ascent while we were up there....
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Hi all,
Finally the Arches Apron project is finished. All 2350' of fixed rope has been removed, and we tried to leave the base a little better than we found it. We found another missing bolt. The 1st bolt, 2nd pitch of Reefer Madness was finally located pretty much where the guide book showed it would be. You know, even when you know where to look, finding a 1/4" hole on a sea of rock can really be a challenge. We never did find that elusive 3rd bolt. That missing 1st bolt was the biggest issue though, and we were very pleased that it was finally resolved. That 2nd pitch would surely have had to have a X rating without it. As far as issues go, this area was found to be pretty much the same as the first ascent parties left it. Working out of 4 different guide books, we found no evidence of any bolts that had been added to any of the routes worked or any evidence of any chopping. A very pristine area for sure. Probably the biggest issue faced was the 2nd pitch variations on Friday The 13th. Older Topos showed a straight up finish to a non-bolted anchor. Newer topos showed runout 5.8 up and left to a 2 bolt anchor. Not shown was a variation found that went up and right past 2 bolts to another 2 bolt anchor. I was the only one working that day, and since I had traversed way over there near the end of 2-60m static ropes tied together, just to reach this stuff, I made the "on the spot" call (every thing found was old-old 1/4" stuff) to replace it all, including the rusted out, single, knife blade found at the anchor shown on the oldest topos. Sometimes it is simply "here and now" so you make a decesion and just do it. Good choice? Bad choice? Don't matter now. "It is what it is" Now the bottom line: 154 bolts/hangers replaced. Most anchors now have Fixi ring hangers with 3/8" Powers 5 piece bolts.
Greg just gave me another 150 bolts w/hangers!! What do you folks want next. I looked at the North Apron of Middle Cathederal but even with the cheater stick and all the other tricks I just can't get up any of that stuff. I can probably at least get off the ground if I go for the Glacier Point Apron next. Soooooo.... what will it be? I am sitting on a lot of rope and hardware, the Park says the issue of me being able to stay in the "Valley" legaly more than 7 days will be resolved this Friday, and I have 5 weeks left before I have to get a real job. It took only 2 of you folks showing up and fixing ropes to make the Arches Apron Project a success. Can it happen again? Glacier Point Apron. Right in the middle. I will be there Monday. I can't wait to see who shows up this time. You will you know. You have to.
Roger Brown
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durban
climber
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Wow, thanks a ton, guys! Clint, nice job going up the Rambler! If Kerzhner and I ever go back to finish it we'll be very glad to have that bolt back. I was actually kind of enjoying the bad/missing bolts excuse to not cast off on some of the other climbs there. Now I've got no excuses and sweaty palms. At least I have the Russian kid for a ropegun if need be.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Thanks for your hard work, Roger.
If you have a game parnter, it might be fun to have some of the moderates near Snake Dike upgraded as crowd-avoiding alternatives.
Also one for a partner, but the Mouth on GPA is a nice route that's not in too bad of a rock fall zone. It is missing a bolt (the bolt?) on the last pitch and has some unacceptable anchors. We needed to leave gear to get down safely. We also needed to belay in the middle of a pitch due to a hand-removable fixed pin anchor. It's definately R, but at 5.8, it would be a nice route to be able to do whilst working one's way up to the wide world of 5.9R. I think it was on the slab-learnin' circuit BITD.
I don't recall the route names, but I remember rapping past bad bolts off of Monday Morning Slab too. If you solo 5.2 (chossy) or have a partner for Chouinard Crack, etc, you can get at those pretty easily. It's easy to rap way off to the side on GPA to access other routes too. You can probaby get a quite a few by doing the moderate and hiking off to the side or rappel. (i.e. the 5.8 crack route to the right of MMS.)
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Wow, awesome job folks. I wish I had time to get to the valley, I would try to help you.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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There is at least one route on Middle Cathedral that can be cheater stick aided up to replace the old quarters. I think it was 10a, left of Despearte for Donuts and right of Quicksilver. Forgot the name here at work, but definitely a single pitch line worthy of fixing up that I recall could be lovetroned past? Anyone know which one I'm talking about?
Seriously how about Quicksilver replacements?
I can try and arrange time off midweek in late Sept, but it sounds like it will be after you take off.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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you bastards. i might have to make my first climbing trip back to yosemite since 1989. was there for six hours in '96, but heat and crowds sent us to san diego.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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found the route name...
Tears of Joy
150' route
had quarters back in early 90s.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Rodger, what a scream! You get the Good Sam award, for sure!
I'm curious, there was a "new" route over by the start of GBG, 9 or 10 bolts in 90' up to an anchor, 5.9 or .10a? I thought this was the start of GBG retrobolted, but perhaps it's something else?
I thank you for your work, on the hottest days of the year too boot.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Kelly,
Yea, we had to sort a few things out in this area. We decided that this was a newer sport route and is actually about 10' or so to the right of GBG. GBG goes up the more featured rock a bit left of this route. Also to the right of this route is the route Surf Nazi. 1987 Meyers/ Reid guide shows no bolts on the first pitch of GBG, also no bolts at the first pitch anchor. 1994 Reid/Meyers shows 5 bolts to a no bolt anchor. The original George Meyers guide shows no bolts to a 1 bolt anchor. We were a bit disapointed not to find any evedence of any first pitch anchor for GBG. Every spot we thought "maybe here" showed no pin scars, missing bolt signs, nothing. We found signs of recent activity in the area and in the area above(places cleaned out to accept cams, etc. new 1/4" bolts on new hangers with no markings) but no trace of where the original top of the 1st pitch of GBG was. After talking to a local who says he had just completed a new route in the area it was decided not to upgrade any of these new bolts/hangers. More recent work was noted above and to the right of the fifth pitch of GBG and was assumed to be a part of this new route. If Clint would have had more time before his Canada trip, it would have been nice to have been able to look over the Caldrewood/Dixon route from the top of the terrace to the final headwall. Put up in 1960 it would surely be ready to have its bolts/hangers replaced. So yea, GBG in its original form is alive and well. Nothing found added and nothing found to have been removed. Except where the old bolts broke, all replacement bolts went in where the old bolts came out. Its just waiting for you,
Roger Brown
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Matt M
Trad climber
Tacoma, WA (Temp in San Antonio for Yr)
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If Mid-Cathedral North Apron routes aren't doable (lots to do over there at some point though!) - I too support
A) Glacier Point Climbs - Cold Fusion? Sailin Shoes? What are the bolts like on Misty Beethoven?
B) 2nd the Moderates on Half Dome - Deuceldike (two bolt belays now?) Eye in the Sky, Snake Dance. Autobahn/Fast Lane (Harder so not as much traffic but it would be great to know if you made the hike up to do it - they're not 1/4in anymore)
A Huge Debt is owed to Roger B and crew. I'll be sure to shake his hand and buy a beer if I ever run into you! -
ASCA award anyone?
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Mungeclimber;
Thanks for the information. I will have a look at "Tears of Joy". Quicksilver? Thats on the list! If I could just get to the top of "Freewheeling" there is a lot of stuff that could be fixed. One fixed rope to the top of "Black Primo" another fixed to the top of "Orange Peel" and one more at "Exodus". Yea!! Thats what I'm talking about. Just one day of fun work for the right bunch of climbers and the entire "North Apron" could have all its old bolts replaced this season. Well maybe we won't get to it this year, maybe not next year, but it will happen.
Roger Brown
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Thanks for the updates on Arches Terrace. Clint, are you going to draw up a new topo for the area ;-)
I'm gonna try to shake loose some time for Middle Apron climbing. I get chills thinking about Black Primo, Orange Peal, and the like...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
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Hey Chris, since you're around. Any memories or photos of Shakey Flakes that you care to share?
Cheers,
Steve
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Kurt Reider, Dave Diegleman and I did Shakey Flakes with back in the day.
Kurt hauled a cheap ghetto blaster up the route so the focused leader could stay inspired with Jagger or Jerry Blasting in the backround. I'm not sure having the Stones at full volume actually did help but we did get up the thing.
Next time, I think I'll go without the box.
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dirtineye
Trad climber
the south
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Chalk bags photo shopped out????
LOL they SAID it was a chalkless ascent. Good for them!
Sounds like a great route, wish I could go try it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2008 - 12:02pm PT
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Yup, I'm a white faced liar. Everybody knows that. My rack caddy has to remove all traces of my powdered indiscretion or I beat him mercilessly. LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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Shakey bump for FA tales.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 30, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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Still Shakey on those Flakes....
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Jan 31, 2008 - 01:03am PT
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Nice Pictures man!
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Jan 31, 2008 - 09:03am PT
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As usual, great stuff, Steve.
Thanks for posting!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 31, 2008 - 10:54am PT
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Now if I can get a story out of Chris to round this out......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 27, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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Talked to Chris and he claimed little recollection of Shakey Flakes from the FA. Great route with the new steel!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 27, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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This is a most interesting Thread. I didn't realize the huge endeavor that Roger and Clint and many others have undertaken to replace bolts in the Valley. All those wild routes in the Arches area!!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Nothing but Fallen Arches and the Terrace BITD! Huge job redrilling those routes...Thanks guys!
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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I remember pulling off a ton of "holds". The route kept changing.
Crowd of buddies shouting encouragement.
EBs and maybe a shoulder stand to place something?
We didn't push it up that high.
I've forgotten who did.
They deserve the credit.
We felt hidden away. No rts over there BITD.
Wow what a tremendous job replacing those routes - unfathomable!
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Aug 28, 2009 - 11:47am PT
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I've made it a new challenge to learn the tech of slab climbing.
I'd love to climb the Arch's slab climbs.
what a great place.
and i'm a shiity slab climber!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Aug 28, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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Thanks for replacing the bolts on Reefer Madness.... Mybee now I can go finish the darn thing.
I did P1, drafting any able bodied belayer I could find.
P2, saw a great big sliding fall, taken by Steven Bedford. So we fiddled in a bolt, a tag team effort.
P3. I had some serious help, Fred East and John Egger, right off the FA of the PO. John just hiked up the lower pitches, drilled most of P3, and drilled an anchor in a hole. We rapped off and called it a root.
I am glad others picked up the torch and finished the thing, and kept the name.
Thank you for fixing the bolts, some of them ride around on the dash of the VW today, little ¼ x ¾ long bolts. I shudder every time I think about the three of us, hanging at the belay while Steve looked down from like 50 feet above us, turned around, drill in one hand, hammer in the other, eyes W I D E open.
Good times.
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Fig's Lady
Social climber
Bishop, CA
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Aug 29, 2009 - 04:03am PT
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Thanks Steve for the pics. I love hearing about all the details from the climbs you, Fig et.al have done.
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old toad
Trad climber
yosemite, Ca.
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Aug 29, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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Just a note on the "new route" Clint has in the picture of the routes, it's called "Cosmic Diesel" after the pick-up basketball team the Curry Garage fielded. I gave it 11+, its hard for me to rate a new route because of going up on it time after time. All those routes were fun except Friday the 13th, when I did that one the 1/4 inchers were out of the rock to the top of the split shank!! The belay bolts were in the same conditon, we just kept saying DONT FALL !!! Clint tells me he and Rodger replaced all the bolts on CD, I would love to have a second opinion on the rating. Also a question for Steve Grossman.. Steve are you going to be at Yosemite Facelift? If so I would like to meet you, I have lots of questions about some of the routes on the Apron.
Ron Skelton
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 14, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Big fun on tiny holds!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2009 - 09:37pm PT
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We had a blast on those routes, Paula!
Ron- Fire away either here or via e-mail.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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bucking fump this.
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dogtown
Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
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Hey Steve.I love the Apron. Does anyone climb there anymore?
Dogtown.
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Remuus
Trad climber
Cali then; Tetons now
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Coz, Thanks for the reminder of the Shining! I went up there w/Scotty to finish the thing not knowing what I was in for. Man I'll NEVER forget that day! Been wondering for years if it got a 2nd...anyone know? Also, Big kudos to the guys that replaced the bolts on the Rambler...much appreciated! Always wanted to get back up there and take care of those but it's a 1000 miles away now days. Man those were the days!!
C Hash
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 27, 2010 - 11:23pm PT
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Shiny new bolts Bump!
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Fogarty
climber
BITD
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:14am PT
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BUMPl Nice photos and very stout for the time!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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Some great pitches! The crux was cool, but the continuous moves on some of the lower pitches were calf killers
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:32am PT
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Hey 426....let's do a continuation up and over through the Cobra...Call me when you're back out this way.
Steve, Free soloing this route? Put those SST's back into the Chivas Regal bag and ...."Forget about it",.........
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Sep 28, 2010 - 12:53am PT
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Always heard the Shining Never had a second ascent.
Place get's rarely climbed by the Arches but some places are good in winter and run into a local once in while.
Slab climbing is sorta dead but I still like it. I try to stay off the big falls near my limit these days though.
peace
Karl
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2010 - 03:04pm PT
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The climbing felt almost choreographed and back in those days if I floated a route I would try to erase the rope in my imagination...No worries now! LOL
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Philosopher
Big Wall climber
Sacramento, California
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The first ascent included Mark McPherran (not 'Mike McPheron') -- who went on to survive a fall of 120 feet off the fourth pitch of the North American Wall in an attempted 1973 solo.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2010 - 01:01pm PT
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I just corrected Mark's name in the OP...Thanks for the heads up!
The first time that I had the opportunity to look through the NPS telescope was the season following Mark's big fall. He left a Chouinard biner at the belay and I was able to see it well enough from the meadow to recognize the shape! Amazing resolution...
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Philosopher
Big Wall climber
Sacramento, California
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Thanks for the correction. Much appreciated. And although he went on to academic 'glory' in the small world of ancient Greek philosophy, he always remembered the wall, his small 'error', and the richness that ensued (despite the broken bones). He remembers his partners fondly, is glad that that the route is so appreciated after all these years, and that we shall all be improved -- one hopes -- in our inner being for what all real climbers must face.
 M.L. McPherran
M.L.0 McPherran
F
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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oh man, I hope I don't have to face those routes to be a real climber! ;)
Though the idea has occurred to me to try. First I think I have to get Blackballed on a clean ascent down canyon, eh? Then maybe work into thinking about thinking about it. Very philosophical approach, no? :)
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Philosopher
Big Wall climber
Sacramento, California
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Indeed.......
And i'll never forget Royal chewing me out because my life was saved by a bolt (that I didn't place).
I guess I was supposed to die for the sake of his Kantian conscience ;)
Let's keep thinking about thinking :)
MLM
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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MARK!!!!
It's me, Carter! How the heck are you!
Still in SB?
I see Falk and Chuck Cochrane all the time! Well, actually at least a number of times per year.
Still climbing and skiing around.
If I ever find some photos I have of you up at our cabin in Felton I will post them to you!
You took me on my first aid climb/practice up the bottom of the Folly. I remember being so tangled up that I couldn't bother clipping (maybe couldn't even find the lead line) and eventually got far enough off the ground (60') that when I slipped on a streak of ooze I fell upside down out of my aiders and stopped a body length off the deck. I'll never forget the look on your face. I was upside down and we were eye to eye.... "We might be done for the day, Tom".
Oh man.
Great to see you are alive and kicking!
Tom Carter
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Philosopher
Big Wall climber
Sacramento, California
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This is great, Tom!
That's 35 years, more or less....
Email me at mark_mcpherran@Sfu.ca and
We'll find the right phone numbers....
There are some memories and friends that need updating ;). great to hear your 'voice'...mark
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
wussing off the topout on Roadside Attraction
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This site is so cool.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 26, 2012 - 02:33pm PT
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Royal Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2012 - 05:29pm PT
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Royal actually took a big one while dangling from the Big Arch on the Arches Direct FA. Bump for the stuff below...
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tom Carter
Social climber
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As always Steve, thanks for the history!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 05:35pm PT
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So....A TR report on this thread: Greasy But Groovy. Been on the list for a while.
There had been speculation, reputation, and information from foggy memories. Best to put all that aside and simply climb it. so JayWood and I cast off.......
The mysterious first pitch whose anchors were a mystery. Guide calls for five bolts but there are seven good 5/16" buttonheads with good stainless SMC hangers. I trust they were replaced at some point but not by Roger/Clint/Ryan et.al.? Reasonable 5.9.
There are anchors just up and to the right from where I am in the photo that are not in the guide book. We belayed from here but learned that the crack (visible in the photo about 30' to the left) is where the route goes due to the proximity of the Arches Terrace traverse. It was tricky thin face to get over from the anchors to the crack but JayWood did a great job to get over and get us back on track. Good pro at the top of the crack and more then likely the crack and bush Cos mentions as it's the only one about a pitch up near the climb. It would be best to forego the anchor and climb up and to the left from where I am and get into the crack and belay from there. As it was, the guide shows the route going up through the Arches Terrace first pitch belay anchors (shown at "J" in Reid guide). So JayWood set pro in crack and went to that belay. Turns out that this is incorrect as the anchors are where the bolt at "I" (Start of Reefer Madness and, as it turns out, a new route.) is shown in the guide. So we assumed incorrectly that we were on the second pitch and I cast off strait up. There are no bolts on the second 5.7 pitch in the guide but I soon came to a bolt after climbing on 5.9 and saw four more heading up to a distant belay. I suspected I was off route (on the "new route") and looked around. Sure enough, I looked to the east and there was the obvious belay and infamous 'Hole' above about forty feet to my right. No pro over 5.10 looking territory and the time wasted caused me to bail back down to the belay. JayWood then took off to the left along the Arches Terrace traverse to easy looking terrain below the second pitch anchors which was just at the second bolt of Arches Terrace traverse. He then climbed up 5.7 terrain for a pitch of no pro (there is no bolt directly before the anchors as shown) and we were back on route! Good job JayWood.
So the way to go is to belay in the crack at the top of the first pitch of Groovy, then head up and right past the second bolt of the AT traverse up to the new s.s. ring anchors installed by the great efforts of Roger/Ryan/Clint. Yahoo!
Now to the fun stuff. I'd read about the dreaded 30' runout to the infamous 'hole' and was looking forward to finding out whether it was as scary as represented or just a "ghost" as Peter Hann likes to call them. I would say a bit of both. Yes, it's 30' to the hole but it's only about ten feet of 5.10 with plenty of solid holds and the fall's clean. Not bad if your solid and I was climbing solid. As a backdrop to what unfolds, I had half inch holes in both pairs of my identical prized climbing shoes. I'd told myself three hard climbs ago that I needed to get them resoled but couldn't afford not to have them since I wanted to do this climb before the end of the season. So I cast off but felt solid and strong and climbed easily to the hole.
Now the guide says 10.d at third bolt and 10.c after fifth bolt. This is backwards and is more like Steve Grossman says in the thread. It gets progressively harder after the first bolt and is more like 10.b after first, 10.c after third and about 11.a after fifth (especially after all the loose holds I threw off)across the line of all new s.s bolts (thanks again guys). As was mentioned, the whole dime coin play was in progress across a loose array of holds and I had to pick and test my way across, using some of the less flexible crisps. As I climbed up and across I remembered what Largo said about how he was in awe that anyone could drill those bolts from stances. Amazing! I was climbing beautifully and was about five feet from the anchors when a foot hold blew and off I went.
I was determined to get to the anchors and scurried back up for another go and blew again. This time I noticed a big flap of rubber on the toe and realized that I was effectively done.
No way I was going to get across 5.11 friction (Largo thought more like 5.12 in EBs). So unfortunately had to call it before climbing the rest of the route as it was getting late due to all the route finding from before.
So, the climbing is excellent, hard and not that scary to the third. Now that we know the way, we'll get a better jump and will definitely be giving that fourth and other pitches a go.....Now if I can just find something to fit my feet......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 05:55pm PT
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Thanks for the TR and all the topo edits - will get the topo cleaned up!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
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Ya Clint...Your the person to do it. I don't have your photo overlay capabilities. Thanks again for your help in keeping a cool route alive!
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 22, 2012 - 06:27pm PT
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the Mouth on GPA is a nice route that's not in too bad of a rock fall zone. It is missing a bolt (the bolt?) on the last pitch
This "missing" bolt is actually a FP set into a seam, about 30 or 40 feet up and left, around the corner and out of your sightline, from the 1st bolt on the pitch. Every time I've led this pitch, I've headed pretty much straight up, drifting slightly right - noticed the old FP on rappel, finally. But the straight up variation feels pretty tanker!
Can it be possible that "Midlife Crises" might be the best line on RA Apron?
No exfoliating dimes involved. Just solid smearing on rock which feels as close grained and as compact as, say, Stately Pleasure Dome.
While en rappel we noticed a bolt on the 2nd pitch of GBG - the 5.7 slab which departs Arches Terrace 1/2 way across its traverese. Wasn't there (or did I miss it?) when I cast off on a 50m cord from the top of the approach pitch crack. Had to tie our 2 lines together; Tom gave me such a good yank in the process that I almost wung from about 6 feet below the stance.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 06:58pm PT
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> the Mouth on GPA is a nice route that's not in too bad of a rock fall zone. It is missing a bolt (the bolt?) on the last pitch
This "missing" bolt was actually a FP set into a seam, about 30 or 40 feet up and left, around the corner and out of your sightline, from the 1st bolt on the pitch. Every time I've led this pitch, I've headed pretty much straight up, drifting slightly right - noticed the old FP on rappel, finally. But the straight up variation feels pretty tanker!
Actually the missing bolt was about 15' below the anchors at the end of the last pitch. It is described in the Roper guide, and was in the 1982 Meyers topo. I found the hole when rapping off and Roger replaced the bolt in 2009.
I saw that fixed pin to the left while leading and I didn't clip it, either!
The problem with the climb which limits its current popularity (in my opinion) is the runout on the first 5.9 section. There is gear down below your feet, but you would slide down and maybe hurt your ankle there. I tossed a hook and pulled on it when I led this, although I probably have below average slab skills (numb left foot, etc.).
photos from climbing it in 2009, just prior to replacing the bolts:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=912351&msg=913408#msg913408
And the route name is actually "The Smile".
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 22, 2012 - 07:05pm PT
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I found the hole and Roger replaced the bolt a few years ago.
Great - now it's a Sport root.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 07:13pm PT
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haha, restoring that final bolt does not change any of the big runouts earlier on the pitch and on lower pitches.... :-)
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Oct 22, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Holy crap, just found this thread.
I took a HUGE RIPPER on Shakey Flakes back in the 1970s.
It's funny because I had such a huge rasberry on my legs and butt that I couldn't tolerate wearing my pants.
So imagine a bloodied, long-hair hippie freak getting on the double-decker bus in his underwear.
(:
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 22, 2012 - 11:19pm PT
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Hey Kabala,
Yes, the Crisis is a great route on solid rock and is one of the better protected, if not the best protected route on RA.
As for the Arches Terrace traverse bolt. The Reid guide shows it but could have been added after Roper?
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 23, 2012 - 11:44am PT
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The problem with the climb which limits its current popularity (in my opinion) is the runout on the first 5.9 section
Well, sort of, Clint. I thought that the really committing move was that 1st high step out of the stance; blow it, and you're looking at a hard bounce off the ledge.
But it's that 1st pitch which separates the slab rats from the mice, so to speak. If you flash it, then you'll probably feel comfortable with the rest of the runnout sections. At least, until you gaze slack jawed up at Rick Accomozzo's continuation to Perhaps.
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KabalaArch
Trad climber
Starlite, California
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Oct 23, 2012 - 12:12pm PT
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Yes, the Crisis is a great route on solid rock and is one of the better protected, if not the best protected route on RA.
Nice photos!-wstmrnclmr. The Crises seems to offer a welcome alternative to the usual RA slab routes. Instead of having to wander all over hell's 40 acres to try and navigate the crumbling dimes between bolts, here you just step it up and go.
I took a spectacular, inverted, plunge halfway between the last bolt and the stance on Poker Face. The climbing had eased off to about 5.9, and so I guess I wasn't paying enough attention when a foothold flake popped.
When you take a fall that you're not expecting, it happens so fast that you don't even know you're falling, until you're hanging on the cord.
(which, I suppose, is less psychologically traumatic than taking the ride you are expecting: easing through 15 or 20 feet of a sustained minefield, I arrived at a bolt with a botched sequence. My hands were reversed, and so there was No Way I was going to be able to lock off on one to make the clip with the other. So close I could have leaned over a few inches and kissed the hanger, which was now ticking off the seconds before the inevitable sent me like a time bomb)
The texture of Poker Face neatly sanded off 2 fingertip pads.
After I'd regained my composure some, we headed over to GPA, and I on-sighted Cold Fusion - no tips necessary, just flat handing, and the stone felt nicely cool to the touch. Plus, if you can't do the easier route, then do the harder!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 01:35pm PT
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Just curious ... who placed that bolt on the 4th pitch of the NA Wall?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 08:39pm PT
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Ah those loose flakes. But I'm sure you'd agree that they're part of the game and needed! Have to use them some times. Just have to hope you flat foot them enough so they don't blow...Wish I had a chance to climb Poker Face before it was retro'd. Does anyone (Clint?) know if Aces and Eights has been retro'd? Have mixed feelings about the FA adding to those older climbs but I go along with ethic of FA. Otherwise I contact them to see if OK to restore them to original pro. Foggy memories make it hard too because sometimes guide is wrong as in case of GBG. Just have to do the best you can when rebolting as Roger and Clint et. al. try to do.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 08:57pm PT
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Don,
> Just curious ... who placed that bolt on the 4th pitch of the NA Wall?
Did you mean on the 3rd pitch, mentioned on p.164 of The Vertical World of Yosemite?
Robbins states there that it was placed by Hennek and Lauria, but Don Peterson and Mead Hargis chopped it (by 1970).
Of course, it was not the first or last bolt added or chopped from an aid route. Sometimes feature break off or people don't have the exact tool for the placement at hand.... Usually not good but it happens sometimes.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:25pm PT
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Tony,
I would not worry too much about missing the original bolted version of Poker Face, given that there are such a large number of largely similar climbs in the Valley. I know, each climb is a bit unique, but there are many others with runout thrills, shall we say.
I may have had notes on Aces and Eights, from when Roger and I did bolt replacement there in 2010, but I can't find them at present.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1265655
Roger replaces original bolts (based on judging from guidebook topos) with ASCA hangers, so you could go there and probably identify added bolts (or compare to the guidebook topo yourself).
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Oct 23, 2012 - 09:46pm PT
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Of course your right Clint. Was responding to Kabala's climbing of said Poker which must of been before retro. I do like the look of the start of Eights however.......
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2013 - 02:01pm PT
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Bump for the love of slabs...
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Nov 15, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Climbing bump.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2014 - 12:02am PT
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Nice edges leading to a good Bump!
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 13, 2014 - 01:16am PT
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All I've ever done on the Arches Apron is Arches Terrace, but that was back in the "bad old days" of Kletter Spider shoes, pitons, and a few bolts in place. Anybody done that route lately? What's the "modern" rating?
It was pretty unprotected then (1965), but Pete Williamson and I had a great time. I'd love to try some of the newer routes in Boreal Ballet Gold's!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Apr 13, 2014 - 10:58am PT
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I've stood before that route a number of times. Can't muster the gumption to run out the glossy 5.11 face moves.
Those who ever did it in Vibram; you blow my mind.
A lot of loose crap coming off that face last time I checked. The base of that apron gets hammered when it rains.
What if.... I did an aid traverse of the entire Royal Arch. Epic! I think about it every but likely never will.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Apr 13, 2014 - 01:10pm PT
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Spider.....Ratings are just consensus systems. It's interesting that folks want to "modernize" the ratings system. I don't know what that means really since it just seems to confuse a system. At any rate, since slab climbing is practiced by few (and most of the few have been at it a while) I think 5.8 rating is fair. It's not 5.9. Consider though how Alex Honnold is quoted somewhere as saying one of his scariest moments was trying to reverse the traverse across the slabs while soloing it. All of the aprons are beautiful places (Glacier, Middle and Royal) frequented by few these days. True adventures in solitude can be found and Arches Terrace is a reasonable way to experience them.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 13, 2014 - 02:14pm PT
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I haven't done any of these Apron friction climbs in sticky rubber. That was a long time ago. I had Kletter Spiders on the advice of Chris Fredericks; I wish I'd stuck with Kronhofers on Arches Terrace! I've used RR Verappes on GPA...Grack Marginal and Patio Pinnacle, and they were far better than Kronies.
My last few trips to Yos, I avoided GPA because of the supposed rockfall hazards.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2014 - 02:36pm PT
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You're only as good as your Kronies...
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bolinas, CA
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Apr 13, 2014 - 02:41pm PT
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 13, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
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My last few trips to Yos, I avoided GPA because of the supposed rockfall hazards You're missing some fun and due to other people's undue caution, you're also missing 20 uncrowded classics.
I believe GPA is reasonably safe from Harry Daley (left side of Monday Morning Slab) all the way to Goodrich right side.
Well......if you believe that absence of recent rockfall indicates lower chance of your getting it.
When logically, it might be just reversed. Where stuff has come down may now be lower likelihood.
Ya pays yer money and takes yer choice but I've had some fun on the GPA lately. Even though I've now been rained off two times recently (after completing the climbs).
And that of course is My Not So Humble Opinion, usual disclaimers apply etc etc etc.
Back on topic: gotta love Royal Arches Apron. Great way to keep in tune for Tuolumne classics.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 13, 2014 - 03:20pm PT
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I LOVE slab climbing! Maybe this next Facelift?
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Feb 12, 2015 - 08:29pm PT
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Bump!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Feb 13, 2015 - 06:31am PT
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STOKED
GREAT BUMP !!
THNX PYRO!
AND OF COURSE Steve.Grossman.
Edit; wow, love the shirt and this slabbysiht, hahaha, now that is climbing content!
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Feb 13, 2015 - 10:18am PT
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Does anyone have info on the bolted route when you're coming down on the last rappel from the Royal Arches? Looks super super thin....dime edges thin, maybe less.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Feb 13, 2015 - 10:54am PT
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Great pics in the OP, worth a second or third viewing!
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 13, 2015 - 04:43pm PT
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sweet thread steve!
perfect treadmill reading
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 14, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
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Does anyone have info on the bolted route when you're coming down on the last rappel from the Royal Arches? Looks super super thin....dime edges thin, maybe less. The last Royal Arches rappel (21, on standard rap route) goes down a climb rated 5.11d. It's climb (R) on page 175 of the 1994 Reid guidebook. Route name unfriendly for Valentine's Day. :-)
A bit off topic, since this is not that close to the Arches Terrace area.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 11:48am PT
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Bump to get some tigers up on Greasy But Groovy now that it has been refitted thanks to Clint and Roger. Bold classic!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jul 21, 2018 - 06:44pm PT
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bump for a climbing area that should have lines, but never does
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| Messages 1 - 124 of total 124 in this topic |
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