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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
Neatherworld, USA
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Aug 31, 2004 - 05:28pm PT
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" And about Beyer, he will never learn to let people climb as they please. After chopping Cookie Monster years ago he was shoved around and thrown to the ground by someone that held back from doing way worse..... he is just a chump and has no right to tell others how to climb " -
so pop a cap in him, drop him in the Merced and be done with it.
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DIMITRIBARTON
climber
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Aug 31, 2004 - 06:28pm PT
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No worries Werner. Still like SATANS post though. Pure entertainment . It would be a waste of a cheap bullet . And things are ok with Max and others that have said sorry, gave back bolt hangers, talked it over and then gone bouldering together. It's all good. Beyer though???????
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yo
climber
NOT Fresno
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Aug 31, 2004 - 06:56pm PT
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About as mad as I've ever seen Karl.
People may disagree with Law and the boys up on Zodiac but at least they're creating a route. This is a hack job, a deviant just trying to f*#k with people. It's what happens when you put yourself apart from the community.
Lame.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Aug 31, 2004 - 07:07pm PT
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Beyer is a jackass, is over rated, and has a small penis.
(that should do it from my end)
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2004 - 03:13am PT
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MajAhole,
Why do you think Ivo is an Asshole?
Don't you know the difference between restoring and DESTROYING?
Werner is right….. life is way to short for this BS!!
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Flash
Ice climber
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MajAhole wrote:"I know that treating people like sh#t comes back to bite you in the ass."
He also wrote the following:
"f*#k the police"
"Jody Sucks Balls"
"Hey Jody - your a right wing, conservative, LE loving, gun toting, sh#t talking, c*#k blowing, testical shitting,rectal wart having, cockmaster."
"I heard Russ has intimate knowledge of Beyer's Penis size."
"Jody takes Penis is the Poo Hole"
"Russ, Dimitri, Beyer, Hans - should all get together in one of those SF Bath Houses. I think Jody runs one that centers around handcuff fetishes."
"Yes, I was an abused child Jody. But you have to live with being a dick and a cop and that sucks worse than my situation."
Sounds to me like his username fits him well and, if his advice holds true, his ass is going to get bitten big time!
How do you know Jody, anyway? Sounds like you have a fetish for him, you freakin' homo!
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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
Neatherworld, USA
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MajAhole = Jim Beyer ?!!?!
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Flash
Ice climber
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Probably is...
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Ben Rumsen
Social climber
Neatherworld, USA
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someone should post a close up of Beyers face - right here, so if he ever decides to go to Yosemite and destroy classic lines he don't like, he won't know if the next person walking up to him is going to smash him in the face with a pin hammer and chop his nose off............
What's this guy going to destroy next, the Leaning Tower??
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Darnell
Big Wall climber
The climbing void
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When was WOEML vandelized?
Beyer can choke on my snorkelrod!!
I did it in late May and everything was hunky dori!! What a great route.
I noticed that the stars looked a lot cooler sitin in the portaledge at night than they do on my screen saver!
I still think you should be able to get thru the blank sections with an Russian adjustable friction hitch and a liter of bacon greese!
I bet there is some sum bitch out there that will help me re-bolt it next summer.
Tap,tap,tap......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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A minor/trivial clarification on the names of the routes mentioned here:
Hans' post seems to be describing the "Hockey Night in Canada" start to the Dawn Wall (aka Wall of Early Morning Light). For example, see the topo on p.142 of Meyers and Reid (1987), or the equivalent topo in "Big Walls", etc. The topo indicates that the original Dawn Wall intersects Hockey Night above the end of pitch 6 (the long arch). If you've done the route, you'll also recognize that Hockey Night uses big dowells, while the Dawn uses rather small rivets, so it's easy to see on route which is which. Athough according to my own topo notes, the original Dawn Wall also shares the first half of pitch 1 of Hockey Night, then goes up and right after the second bolt. And my notes say the original Dawn joins Hockey Night at the top of pitch 4 (at the start of the long arch).
In between these spots are the Hockey Night pitches. So when Hans describes damage to pitch 3, I believe this is on Hockey Night. The original Dawn Wall pitches are to the right of this, and were the ones where Robbins and Lauria chopped the rivets back in 1970, before having a change of heart and leaving the upper route intact (above the original pitch 4, see "The Vertical World of Yosemite"). I recall that someone restored these original Dawn Wall pitches at a later date. I don't think that Robbins chopped the first 2 bolts on pitch 1, since they are shown in the 1987 topo. I haven't done all the original Dawn pitches (I did Hockey Night), so I could be wrong - maybe Hans was on them, or maybe he was on Hockey Night. But it sounds like Beyer's route is closer to Hockey Night, and the standard start for the Dawn on the topos is on Hockey Night.
So the point is ... ? Just that the damage to pitch 3 (including the photos of the bent bolt hangers and the dangling head) is most likely on Hockey Night, rather than on the original Dawn, and this pitch 3 was not touched by Robbins. None of this is very relevant to the point of the post, i.e. that damage/sabotage to a long existing and moderately popular route (whether it be Dawn or Hockey Night) is rather shocking. In terms of route evolution, I'd expect that the next couple of parties to do the route will bring some rivets and restore the damaged sections.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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"But it sounds like Beyer's route is closer to Hockey Night, and the standard start for the Dawn on the topos is on Hockey Night."
yeah, that's what bigwalling said...
I don't understand how this guy Beyer can put up aroute that is contrived with lots of bolts, and at the same time chop another route which he believes should have never been put up. Seems pretty hypocritical to me.
Also makes me kjinda sad, because I'd like to do WEMl someday, just for the classic factor.
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WBraun
climber
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Lambone, very good point!
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Not only that, but the way in which the chopping was done makes me think that it is more about ego then care or concern for preserving the quality of the stone on El Cap.
I can understand the perspective of wanting to chop bolts inorder to restore the asthetics and quality of unflawed granite wilderness. However, if this is the goal...then the proper way to go about it is to eliminate all traces of the scaring as best possible.
Hammering the bolt hangers flat and sabotaging rivits does not work towards the goal of restoring a natural state....it is a statement, drivin by ego. Which is just as bad if not worse then the original scaring of the rock itself.
It's like cleaning up a nucular waste site by bulldozering all the 55 gallon drums into the ground so they leak into the groundwater table that flows into the neighboring city.
Just my 2 cents...
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bigwalling
climber
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There are lots of bolts that should be chopped! But in good style, unlike whatever happened here. WEML is what it is and I can tell you I have no desire to ever climb it. I don't think it should have ever been put up but that doesn't mean it should be destroyed.
Warren chopped his own route on the Porclein, so heres how I justify what I would do to the route if I ever went up there. Re-create the route, chopping now unnessary rivets and replacing needed ones. It wouldn't be sick but in areas where you can place heads and use hooks, beaks or anything new, the rivets are chopped.
http://rocknrun.net/Topos/Brigade.jpg
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stetind
Social climber
Sweden
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As a sidenote, it seems this thread solves a mystery for me. Did Mescalito beginning of June 2002 and was puzzled by a nearby route, which started right of Mescalito and at one point crossed it. All the heads on this route had the wires ducttaped, i.e. you had to remove the tape to clip them. Guess to prevent someone to use a cheater-stick? And it wasn't just the occasional head that had been ducttaped It was really ALL the heads. With all the physical and mental stress involved in climbing a bigwall (at least for me..) I couldn't belive that someone had energy to spare for this.
As Beyer's route went up in May 2002 I guess that was what I saw?
Erik
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2004 - 06:24am PT
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Whhhoaa, Bigwalling. That's a pretty BIG statement to say that "it should have never been put up". Brian said it's a pretty badass line.
Yeah, I think Clint is probably correct in his assumption. I remember seeing Beyer somewhere between Hocky Night and WEML.
I also know that Beyer tapes his heads. But, he puts a courtesy slit in the tape... ha haa haa. So, you can't stick clip it. Not sure what that is all about.
Everyone is throwing the "ego" word around but I'm not convinced his work is driven by that. Who knows…. Maybe it is.
I also like Lambone's post. I too, want to climb the route. In fact Brian and I are planning on a little vendetta soon.
I just think the whole smashing hangers and leaving the junk behind should NOT be accepted. I saw the same thing a few months ago on Shortest Straw, on the belay right below the circle.
Cheers!!!
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Ammon
Big Wall climber
The Ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2004 - 06:38am PT
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You HAD to ask...........
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macgyver
Social climber
Oregon
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Alas, we find that those guilty may have already been punished...
So the defaced face of the defacer is shown. Has Mr Beyer made any public comments about this other than the phone call mentioned above?
Rock on
mac
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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I kind of like the duct taped head idea....pretty sporting.
Although the topo posted by Bigwalling on Ammons sites shows Byer used a 20ft cheater stick or something.....so again, seems like someone who talks out of both sides of his mouth.
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