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east side underground
Trad climber
crowley ca
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Dec 23, 2007 - 10:48am PT
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If it's not your route leave it alone!!!! Who do you as#@&%es think you are? Destroying a route for your own gain !! Bolt choppers need to be beat!!!!! Go home barneys.
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captain chaos
climber
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Dec 23, 2007 - 12:25pm PT
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Anyone who does something like this to routes should be banned from the valley... its malicious intent endangers climbers lives who do the route next and whom may not be privy to the changes made, which means they may not be prepared to deal with the situation properly, thus being the possible cause an accident. Should an accident occur, it then endangers the rescue teams lives who may have to go in and deal with someone who got injured by these vandalistic actions. Also, Warren is not here to defend himself, which makes it even more pathetic, its an chickenchit insult directed at one of Yosemite's most colorful and prolific pioneers. Werner, talk with the boys and get this dick banned, there's no excuse for these kinds of actions and its just a matter of time before someone gets seriously injured or killed due these kinds of malicious actions.
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johnboy
Trad climber
Can't get here from there
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Dec 23, 2007 - 01:11pm PT
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Ed, that is a beautiful picture. I like the way that wall kinda catches the light, maybe sometime in the morning early.
Does it have a name?
;-)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 23, 2007 - 04:31pm PT
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a name is just words
their meaning fleeting as the sunlight and shadow
one hiding
one seeking
and between the two the penumbral meaning
one illuminating
one obscuring
all at once yet timeless
even as it defines time
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Dec 23, 2007 - 05:33pm PT
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Ed Hartouni and this man- separated at birth??
Read Ed's post above before you decide.
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Anastasia
Trad climber
California
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Dec 23, 2007 - 08:48pm PT
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Bump!
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Scrunch
Trad climber
Provo, Ut
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Sep 12, 2009 - 04:39pm PT
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Not to bring back old animosities, but does anyone know if the damage has been fix on Woeml? If not, I was wondering how much damage, and volunteer to help next spring to fix it.
Adam
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
Boise....
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Sep 12, 2009 - 05:23pm PT
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Good community mindedness, there, bro.
Yeah, sometimes folks get carried away with their own shizz, no matter how dumb & weak it is.
Wish they'd just calm down, huh?
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Apr 16, 2019 - 04:22pm PT
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That’s the spirit Donny! I’m off to dinner but will get back to blasting the navel gazing off the front page in favor of MSTGA threads when I’m done.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 16, 2019 - 05:15pm PT
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If I were to climb a route and find that it is over bolted, rather than chopping, I would just report which bolts I skipped and how I protected that particular section without the bolt or bolts. Then others can know what is possible.
There is always context. I have heard that the final bolts on the Nose that were put in by Harding could have been protected in other ways by features close by. But he had been up there for a long time, it was night, and he couldn't see, and was anxious to finish. With such a long, pioneering adventure, it is understandable. You have to cut him some slack.
When WEML was put up, and Robbins heard that nearly 300 bolts were used, his initial reaction was, "That is one bolt every 10 ft. or so, on a 3,000 ft. wall, it sounds like too many for there to be a natural line." But when he got up there it didn't seem as bad as he thought.
At Tuolumne the tradition has always been to be judicious with bolts. A classic example is the Dikes Route, which originally had only one bolt; then the 1st ascensionist gave permission to add two more. But not eight more, that would make the route lose the excitement and adventure. Same with Bachar-Yerian. There are just enough bolts to keep you alive if you fall, but no more. Maybe in some areas, they began with a different ethic, but it seemed everyone liked it that way up there. If someone added a lot more bolts to BY, it would be more accessible and more frequently done, but wouldn't be the same climb as it was for those who did it a more minimalist way. But even if someone did that, I wouldn't chop it. If Bachar were alive, and he wanted to chop it, let him, but not anyone else. Life is too short.
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