Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Gene
climber
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2007 - 05:15pm PT
|
"the route can be done in 30 pitches pretty easily"
Yeah!
|
|
tradcragrat
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
|
"...you can avoid the bird beak protected crux on pitch 17..."
What, you mean you don't like 5.13s with deathfall potentional?!?!
|
|
clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2007 - 11:49am PT
|
thanks for the inspiration. does anybody have a freerider topo??? SHould take me 4 years to red point each pitch. sheesh.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
|
That's it, I'm cutting off one of my fingers and looking for a hot young babe for a partner.
Win some, lose some i guess.
They are amazing.
Note to Tommy, Triple Direct has never had a free ascent and you've already done all the hard pitches involved. Go get it before you run out of free El Cap Routes
Peace
Karl
|
|
Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
|
|
|
Jun 14, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
|
the question isn't how many of the existing free routes up el cap he/they will do (all of them), but how many new lines will be put up, and which ones will go.
|
|
Michael Lecky
Mountain climber
Harvard, MA
|
|
|
Jun 15, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
|
When I read about climbs such as this, I can only shake my head and blow admiring air from my lips, making them flap. I climbed in a pair of EB's. (Admit it. You have no idea what I'm talking about.) A 5.9 lead on the Weeping Wall was at the extreme end of my skill and morality. Tobin Sorenson & Co. wore white painter's pants. I wore my Chouinard "whipcord" knickers, in vague reference to my alpine aspirations. In full-fledged rebellion against the "hot boys," as we called them, my partner and I were determined to become alpinists, a la Gaston
Rebuffat, in opposition to the Stone Masters, who could tread air but hadn't tested themselves on high mountains. We did Whitney East Buttress, and V Notch, and other such climbs. I did Castle Ridge on Ben Nevis, and the Hornli Ridge route on the Matterhorn during my college semester abroad. My realization that I am not a real climber came when I traveled up from Brig to Wisp to Grindelwald, and spent the night up high on the slope opposite the Eigerwand. In the cold rain, swaddled in my Chouinard Scottish cag and matching "pied de elephant," I stared at the Mordwand for hours. That face put into me that level of fear that extends down from mind to stomach to penis. That night, I understood that not a climber. That didn't stop me from trying to fake it afterward, which culiminated in a near-fatal accident after completing the ice route on Huntington's Ravine, Mt. Washington. Never mind the details.
Today, I know my place. I happily run descents on my road bike at 50 mph. I love ski touring deep into the Whites and Adrirondaks. The other night, I free-climbed twenty feet into a tree to bring down our new cat, who'd stranded herself. It is one thing to have climbed, and to know how to climb. It is another thing to have been a climber. I know which is which, having been the former but not the latter.
mkl
|
|
bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
|
|
found a cool photo on the internet of local Vancouver boys, Kruk and Stanhope on Golden Gate ...
Bump for radical youth from Canada !!
These guys are the next generation bold trad climbers ....
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!