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| Messages 1 - 27 of total 27 in this topic |
HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
Arid-zona
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Such a stud muffin. Those two are an impressive climbing duo! Thanks for helping to keep the dream alive for we Americans you two!!!
P.s.- You know what was tastelessly funny? I accidentally just typed "stub muffin" compeltely by accident. Little Freudian typing...
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bob
climber
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Its great to know that when I need inspiration, there's so many people out there like these two who are handing it out like candy! So cool.
Thanks and congrats!
Bob J.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Good on that couple! Crazier stuff than most of us will every know!
Good question,walleye, word on the street is that 12d wide is at the least, demanding.
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WBraun
climber
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Such a stud muffin?
hahaha never heard that expression before.
Awesome Tommy and Beth. Congratulations.
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K. Fosburg
Sport climber
park city, ut
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Probably not so hard Wall-eye, though a great name for a pitch. As we've discussed, Huber must have thought it was hard because he did it right(wrong) side in (I seem to recall a photo). Cosgrove floated it when we did SOH.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Hell A
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Jun 10, 2007 - 12:57am PT
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good on ya mates
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matty
Big Wall climber
Valencia, CA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 04:38am PT
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"Tommy has now free climbed every hard El Cap free route except for El Nino."
Has he not climbed the easy ones? I would have started with them first.
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jerr
climber
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Jun 10, 2007 - 12:28pm PT
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Awesome . Freakin Incredible.
7 days ground up.
Can some one enlighten me on how those two super human climbers haul.
7 days on the wall would generally require a considerable bit of luggage. I just dont see how Tommy and Beth can climb that hard and haul to.
I really want to try a ground up ascent of a free route .
Need advice.
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N0_ONE
Social climber
Utah
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Jun 10, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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Matty said.. "Has he not climbed the easy ones? I would have started with them first.
LMAO, yeah me too!
Great job guys!
I love the inspiration I get from people like that!
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 02:46pm PT
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I want to know what TC thinks the off-width pitches on Son of Heart should be rated, namely the Kierkegaard Chimney. Huber called it 12d?
I think that refers to the traverse under the roof, a pitch or two above the Nietzche chimney.
The Kierkagaard starts wide, and tapers down to a hand crack. McTopo lists it as 5.10. It has a potential ledge fall until you exit the slot and get out onto the face. When I did SOH, it was C2-scary, even with the correct cams.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Jun 10, 2007 - 02:51pm PT
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I haven't climbed the route myself and could be mistaken, but I think that the Supertopo rating may reflect the McTopographer's partner's opinion of the difficulty of those pitches.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 03:14pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 03:25pm PT
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Very inspiring Tommy and Beth. Way to keep raising the standards and elevating the sport here at home. Big time accomplishments aplenty, great job.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Jun 10, 2007 - 04:25pm PT
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it must have been incredibly fun, those cracks up there, all those pitches - dream climbing gone to the moon - amazing
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tradcragrat
Trad climber
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Jun 10, 2007 - 06:59pm PT
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Wow. Great stuff. There is a nice video of Alex Huber freeing Golden Gate. Some of those .13 pitches seemed scary and poorly protected. Pulling runout 5.13 moves 2000 feet of the deck is beyond the scope of my imagination. Even more so given that he was onsighted many of the pitches. What can one say to such a bold statement of excellence?
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GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 07:46pm PT
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There is no limit to where these two people will take this sport.
WAY TO GO TOMMY AND BETH!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Jun 10, 2007 - 09:00pm PT
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Tommy and Beth continue to raise the bar...nice!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Hell on earth wondering what I did to deserve it
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Jun 10, 2007 - 10:12pm PT
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Congrats. Can't wait to see what they do next...
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Gene
climber
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Jun 11, 2007 - 05:15pm PT
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"the route can be done in 30 pitches pretty easily"
Yeah!
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tradcragrat
Trad climber
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Jun 11, 2007 - 06:35pm PT
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"...you can avoid the bird beak protected crux on pitch 17..."
What, you mean you don't like 5.13s with deathfall potentional?!?!
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clustiere
Trad climber
Durango, CO
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Jun 14, 2007 - 11:49am PT
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thanks for the inspiration. does anybody have a freerider topo??? SHould take me 4 years to red point each pitch. sheesh.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jun 14, 2007 - 12:43pm PT
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That's it, I'm cutting off one of my fingers and looking for a hot young babe for a partner.
Win some, lose some i guess.
They are amazing.
Note to Tommy, Triple Direct has never had a free ascent and you've already done all the hard pitches involved. Go get it before you run out of free El Cap Routes
Peace
Karl
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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Jun 14, 2007 - 01:08pm PT
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the question isn't how many of the existing free routes up el cap he/they will do (all of them), but how many new lines will be put up, and which ones will go.
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Michael Lecky
Mountain climber
Harvard, MA
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Jun 15, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
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When I read about climbs such as this, I can only shake my head and blow admiring air from my lips, making them flap. I climbed in a pair of EB's. (Admit it. You have no idea what I'm talking about.) A 5.9 lead on the Weeping Wall was at the extreme end of my skill and morality. Tobin Sorenson & Co. wore white painter's pants. I wore my Chouinard "whipcord" knickers, in vague reference to my alpine aspirations. In full-fledged rebellion against the "hot boys," as we called them, my partner and I were determined to become alpinists, a la Gaston
Rebuffat, in opposition to the Stone Masters, who could tread air but hadn't tested themselves on high mountains. We did Whitney East Buttress, and V Notch, and other such climbs. I did Castle Ridge on Ben Nevis, and the Hornli Ridge route on the Matterhorn during my college semester abroad. My realization that I am not a real climber came when I traveled up from Brig to Wisp to Grindelwald, and spent the night up high on the slope opposite the Eigerwand. In the cold rain, swaddled in my Chouinard Scottish cag and matching "pied de elephant," I stared at the Mordwand for hours. That face put into me that level of fear that extends down from mind to stomach to penis. That night, I understood that not a climber. That didn't stop me from trying to fake it afterward, which culiminated in a near-fatal accident after completing the ice route on Huntington's Ravine, Mt. Washington. Never mind the details.
Today, I know my place. I happily run descents on my road bike at 50 mph. I love ski touring deep into the Whites and Adrirondaks. The other night, I free-climbed twenty feet into a tree to bring down our new cat, who'd stranded herself. It is one thing to have climbed, and to know how to climb. It is another thing to have been a climber. I know which is which, having been the former but not the latter.
mkl
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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found a cool photo on the internet of local Vancouver boys, Kruk and Stanhope on Golden Gate ...
Bump for radical youth from Canada !!
These guys are the next generation bold trad climbers ....
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| Messages 1 - 27 of total 27 in this topic |
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SuperTopo on the Web
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you can avoid the bird beak protected crux on pitch 17 by traversing a little to the side and clipping rivets.
Let us know!