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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Dale Bard in action, Camp 4 boulders, mid 70's.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
pads are for girls
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Feb 14, 2009 - 01:37am PT
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" It was Ron's climb. I helped clean it with him.
Henry just straight ahead went up there with no regard.
Total as'shole on his part for that! "
You guys got robbed . Did you go back and do it after that ?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 14, 2009 - 10:39am PT
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Ahhh. Wake up to a Bard with my coffee. I really do miss Allan.
When I was in town, I was put in to forced labor on that climbing wall. Dale put an incredible amount of attention into it. He went to some secret spot to find smooth rocks that wouldn't torch your skin, he legally scored some of the glue that the highway dudes put reflectors down with, the angles and everything were perfect. All four crack machines overhung 20 or 30 degrees and were hideous off fingers. The face moves were all on nice little edge buckets, so it was about 5.8 and overhanging. The point was to go up and down those things until exhaustion. Not hang around trying to figure a move out.
I had a brief moment from that where I could just float boulder problems. Never came again. It was kind of mystical. I knew just how hard to hang on without falling.
Last time I saw it, it was painted with a huge lightning bolt on it.
Then after DR sold the place, I drove by once and it was gone.
I miss those days tremendously. That was probably the funnest year of my life. So far. 1986. Then I got totally sucked down the rabbit hole of BASE. I was already pretty far gone by 1985, for that matter.
Where in the world is Joe Faint these days? He lived next door.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Feb 14, 2009 - 11:15am PT
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Sometiime in the 80's Dale had his horizontal crack machine set-up in my back yard. He did multiple laps listening to AC DC on his head phones.
I asked to give it a go, he knew I was pretty pathetic on thin overhanging cracks and when I manged to get from one end to the other, he gave me a sour look, grabbed the wrench and tightened the thing down to an impossible size then continued his training session.
On my days off from cobbling he hijacked me and my little Honda and we scoured the eastside for the elusive finger cracks.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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scouted for elusive finger cracks?
What did you find? The boulder cracks are out there, but not too many as far as I've seen.
Tom
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Feb 14, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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Few and far between Tom. I can recall one in each of; Pink Cliffs, Rock Creek, McMurry Meadows and Fossil Falls.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
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i've checked out mcmurry meadows a few times. there's a lot of rock, but strangely not a lot of climbing. very photogenic though. there's that big thumb like fin on top of the hill. way cool, the rock is sketchy.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
pads are for girls
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Feb 14, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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What about Wheeler Crest for cracks ? Think there's a few . Looks ripe for some new exploring . There is some quality boulders all along the base too .
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 14, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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BASE104
Man, we all miss Allan.
Joe Faint passed away a couple of years ago, in Montana, I believe. Here is an old shot of McLean and Faint on Dana, circa 74? We called ourselves the "Tuolumne Ice Men". Seemed funny at the time.
cheers
Joe
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 15, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Bummer. Joe Faint taught me how to fly fish. Once I was blazing and he would make these wild faces at me to try to freak me out. I would always scarf his bicycle and ride from forty acres into town when my van was on blocks.
Good soul. He looks so happy in that picture. I never saw him like that.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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That rippling Bard shot brought this to mind. From Mountain June 1980.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Pumped up windup girltoy bump!
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Wherever Dale went and stayed for any length of time a crack machine would magically appear. He could throw one together in no time.
Base, I remember that wall at DR's! We must know each other?
How about Dale's sanctuary out in the the Milks?
I remember Dale daily soaking his hands in brine to toughen them up for his problems.
Guido - I did not know Joe had died. RIP.
Dale is now the COO for Ortovox (the avalanche beacon company) in SLC.
MaCabe - Still have that great B&W Wiltsie Photo of you on the Apron on my wall. Glad you are still at it.
Besides being a perfectionist in basically everything Dale, Allan & (Gary too) were the sons of Louie Bard, a Chief Warrant Officer in the US Coast Guard - They could tie more knots than you could shake a stick at - and they were/are logistical masters.
I once saw Allan get into a knot tying contest up at the hut on Cotopaxi with a group of Ecuadorian commandos - first I though we had better make sure they won.
Then when AB slayed them hands down - the vibes turned around and he was the toast-of-the-town, they considered him a wizard - cold beers all around at nearly 15,000' in celebration of his prowess!!!
Those Bards are something.
Did I ever post the photo of Dales winning entry (turned Opal Hood Ornament) in the TM "Bubblegum chewing contest"?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Bard bump!!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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TC
I remember Allan telling the story about dad Louie, Chief Warrant Officer, piping the lads awake some mornings with his bosum's whistle!
cheers Guido
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Sep 11, 2009 - 11:20am PT
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Those 3 all had lacquered Knot boards!!!
Hey guido!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 10:47am PT
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Fissure tutorial bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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Bump for ringlocks!
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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May 26, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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I had a Dachstein sweater for years, quite a garment. Great sweater except it required a dedicated drawer since it stood about 3'x 3'x 8" when folded!
Do they still make em?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
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Pumping to get past the holiday bump!
Bumping to get past the holiday pump!
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