Discussion Topic |
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 9, 2007 - 01:52pm PT
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A crack climbing tutorial from one of the best, Dale Bard. This was originally put out in the Great Pacific Iron Works catalog in 1978. Tony Kerwin produced the illustrations.
Somebody besides Phil Gleason on 1096.
The ever controversial Henry Barber workin' it.
GPIW race team!
Classic stuff!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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thanks for posting this Steve -
much cultural and technical relevance, not to mention historic value and beauty
hey, anyone remember the picture in Mountain Magazine of Dale wearing a Dachstein sweater with the caption:
"Yosemite Hopeful, Dale Bard"
Then of course there's "Brave New World"
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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Where is this famous 1096? What's the real (new age) grade? Can you top rope it? Looks cool even if a little over my pay grade.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 02:33pm PT
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1096 (ranger radio lingo for crazies) is located on the far right side of the big slab under the main Royal Arch. Turn the corner and the rock becomes steep quickly. Hangdog Flyer at 5.12 is the only other option to access 1096.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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that's great Blinny!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 03:49pm PT
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Too funny Blinny. The smell of nostalgia.... I never sprung for one of those beautiful sweaters. Rare day in Tucson that you could even wear it.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Great article, I have it in mothballs.
The only Tr on 1096 is if somebody leads it, or bails from hangdog.
I led it in spring '79, When I got to the top my stalwart and supportive belayer (D. Cilley) congratulated me with, "I didn't think you were gonna make it."
I've got one of those sweaters, I can wear it in my house (@5000') in the winter with out heat, those things are what pre-shrunken sheep are all about.
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Oli
Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
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I will have to quibble with one of the captions, "Barber workin' it." Rarely did Henry work anything. He climbed everything straightaway. Every time I climbed with him (he looked me up in Boulder on a regular basis, because, as he said, "I always manage to get up something when I call you." Anyway he is/was one of the all-time greatest climbers who ever lived or will live. Look at Butterballs or Fish Crack, or the free solo of Sentinel in, what was it, two and a half hours, or was it less? I'd have to check. But he did phenomenal things everywhere he went, in perfect style. One day he called and said let's go climbing, and we walked up to Roger Briggs' 5.12 overhanging gorgon "Death and Transfiguration" on the north side of the fourth flatiron. Henry sight-led it with only about 4 points of protection, not even stopping for a rest. I managed to follow the thing, pretty out of shape and having to apply myself (I had almost forgotten how, being somewhat lazy), and the reason I made it is only because I was running high on his energy, his very spirit like adrenaline flowing through space into me. I'm high now, because the philly won the Belmont. What a race! I was screaming during the race today and made my children run away in fear.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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nice vignette Oli,
I took "Barber workin' it." to mean
working the magic or,
working the mojo
etc...
I'm glad it got you to write some more - thank you.
PS: I wonder who that neatly dressed climber is on 1096, anyway?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 9, 2007 - 08:23pm PT
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Ray's take is correct. No climber identified in the credits. Not many folks would have lead that thing on hexes and tubes.
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WBraun
climber
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Pat
Henry outright stole Fish crack from Kauk.
It was Ron's climb. I helped clean it with him.
Henry just straight ahead went up there with no regard.
Total as'shole on his part for that!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
Berkeley
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1096; Oh, radio lingo. I thought it was a play on being just short of 5.11. So what is the rating?
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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I am holding the catalog in my hand. I also have a GPIW catalog with Doug Robinson urging everyone to train by going out talus running- I wonder how many broken legs resulted from that?
For years I tried to cultivate the cool look of the two guys carrying the Baltoro backpacks in the ad-(the worst back pack ever) must be what teen age girls feel like when they see the cover of Seventeen
murf
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WBraun
climber
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Actually they don't use 1096 anymore.
It's 5150 now.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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I wonder if the guy in the 1096 pic is Nick Taylor?
was that his name?
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 12:18am PT
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Nice thread! Eh Ray? You and I were kinda into those crack thingamajiggers...at one time!! i always loved that shot of Dale with EB's from Mountain Mag...Yosemite hopeful? Yeah!! I'll ask Nic Taylor when I see him...which is often these days here.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 01:24am PT
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No relation to ol' Skip Taylor I trust, eh Mike?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2007 - 01:35am PT
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rockermike, it's always been rated 5.10d in the chimney/flare category. Just short of 5.11, as you thought.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 01:31am PT
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Just in case a Bardarian lurks......
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Steve
Do you have the catalog that has the Doug Robinson
article about running down scree etc--that's a great one--
I used to have that catalog, lent it to a friend, and
it disappeared. . . :-(
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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I have that catalog here on my desk Steve.The intro from Yvon has him quoting Chiloe.
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Tomcat
Can you upload/display it as Steve G did with his
article? (please, please) . . . :-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 12:01pm PT
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Walleye- I would have to dig deep for the backside Gucci!
I posted that up elsewhere, but I have it all scanned so here ya go...But first a word from our sponsor!
Sure wish that my knees liked talus running as much as my noggin' do! Had to let go of the dryland skiing thing.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Here is the "Yosemite hopeful-Dale Bard" image that Raydog mentioned. It is from Mountain 33 (March 1974.) [No photo credit given.]
The accompanying text says:
"Notable repeats include an outstanding series by Dale Bard who climbed Basket Case (third, all nuts) with Tim Harrison; Hot Line (second) with (Vern) Clevenger; Cream (fourth, all nuts) with Clevenger and Hourglass Left Side (fourth, all nuts) with Harrison and Werner Braun."
The reason I could grab this image so easily from a stack of 125+ Mountain magazines is it was inspirational to me in my youth and I remember it well. Somewhere I have a photo of myself lying in a Camp 4 fire pit in my white milkman pants and Chouinard Rugby Shirt after returning from a failed whack-n-dangle. The photo has the hand-written caption, "Yosemite hopeless.
edit: By the way, for those who do not have the privilege of owning one or having seen one, Dale is wearing he famous Dachstein sweater in this picture.
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Tomcat
Trad climber
Chatham N.H.
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Steve,did you get what you wanted?Be happy to scan my issue,but most of the binding is still intact and laying it flat might ruin it.
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yo
climber
The Eye of the Snail
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"Relax a little and it's right there..."
Simple and not so simple.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
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I don't think the Chouinard folks had any idea that we would be cherishing their catalogs so many years later! Mine did in fact revert to unbound leaves for the cause. Never meant to last!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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RE:
" Here is the "Yosemite hopeful-Dale Bard" image that Raydog mentioned."
OMG dude - that is so awesome.
thank you
re:
"The reason I could grab this image so easily from a stack of 125+ Mountain magazines is it was inspirational to me in my youth and I remember it well."
yes!
amazing
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WBraun
climber
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Hey plastic man
That Dachstein sweater in the picture above Dale washed one night.
Then he put it in the drier on high heat and forgot about it.
He brings it into our room and shows me his sweater.
I never laugh so hard, the thing shrunk so small it could fit a Barbie doll.
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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I NEVER went to the crags w/ out leather side panels speedystitched on my EB's after that pic came out.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
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Werner- Dale must have been crushed, that is too damn funny! I always lusted after one of those but being from Tucson.....
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WBraun
climber
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Yes Steve, it was true. He was crushed, he loved that sweater.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Is that Y.C. on Outer Limits?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Tom,
> Is that Y.C. on Outer Limits?
Yes, on p2. The infamous shot with the jumars on his left hip....
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Tom- yes
Sooze. 'course he fell, he faced the wrong way!
Werner, I have one of those sweaters within 20' of me at this moment. I never put it in the dryer but still it seems to have shrunk in the last 30 yrs
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there... say, this was very interesting, guys...... the "rock-crack-holds" and such... great shared stuff... thanks... gives me an idea all the more of what all you climbers do... i think the crack climbing is really intriquing..
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SteveW
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Steve G--thanks for loading that up. Mucho apreciated.
Tomcat--Steve G loaded it up-no need for you to try to
scan it, but I appreciate your checking!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Great Thread, thanks!
As an eager adolescent cragster I soaked up every word and image and dog eared all these catalog and magazine classics on the BART train to school, or at my mountain shop job after. Running Talus continues to inspire, (I have always considered it somewhat of my "third sport"), as does everything I read from Doug Robinson back then.
Soon after the mountain mag came out with the "hopeful pic", I met Dale and Werner at Short Circuit. Biggest breakthrough moment I ever had in climbing technique was a gift of instruction from Dale, who after watching this little 8th grader gamely lie-backing his way 2/3s up the splitter, said, "come here kid", and thoroughly schooled me in the art of the handjam.
I still shudder to remember leading the first pitch of Reeds and Bishops Terrace prior to this with only liebacking and gastoning in my skill set.
Peter
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Hey Steve,
Ask Mimi about Dale living with Bobbie in his bread van next to Robinson's house in forty acres.
He built the first climbing wall that I ever saw. It was 12 feet high or so with four overhanging sides. The holds were rocks that he hunted for and epoxied on with that highway glue that they put reflectors on the road with. Not sure how he scored that.
The holds were smooth and like little buckets. You would just traverse around and around and up and down until you totally burned out.
On each corner he put overhanging crack machines that were each different sizes of off fingers. I wasn't a good crack climber, so I was lucky to get my feet off the ground. He would just cruise lap after lap. I had never seen anyone that good on cracks before. I was kind of put on slave labor helping him build it.
He also had a horizontal machine of perfect hands that he would just get on and do lap after lap after lap. He would only come down to turn the tape over in his boom box and get right back on. He tried to train me, but I was untrainable on the off-fingers stuff.
He seemed to eat nothing but spinach. He was so tiny, but it was all muscle.
The inside of the bread van was like a 4 star hotel. He seemed to be kind of a perfectionist. Nice guy. Kind of quiet.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2008 - 11:08am PT
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A little technique can take you a long way.....
I think that Dale's wood wall was the first climbing structure that I ever set foot on long ago. I knew these guys were getting mighty strong and it all made sense when I saw the thing. I went on to design and build a few myself up the road.
Mr. Robinson's house up in Happy Valley was a crossroads for a lot of climbers and always a house of good cheer! And Elvis really is an attractive blond gal who stayed for a while and brewed some mean suds! Actually, the brewers were a couple and their names have escaped me but not their faces. The many faces of Elvis......who is everywhere and everything or at least that's what Mojo sez.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2008 - 10:31pm PT
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And now a little Roots Basic Rockcraft for the old timers! RR on fundamental crack technique. Illustrations by Sheridan Anderson.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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Rockcraft Bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2008 - 11:04pm PT
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Bump for a pump....with Yvon!
From the AAJ 1970. Tips from the boss!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 29, 2008 - 11:01pm PT
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Steve
Were you at Facelift?
If so, I'm bummed I didn't get to meet you.
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tooth
Mountain climber
B.C.
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Sep 30, 2008 - 08:10am PT
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bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2008 - 10:31am PT
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Not this year but certainly 09! I hope it was a big success.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Sep 30, 2008 - 10:35am PT
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Steve
Well, I'm relieved that I didn't miss you.
Hope to be there next year myself. What an incredible
occasion, and the Chicken Skinner is just beyond awesome!
PS
Thanks for your continued history!
(you were mentioned in the Alpinist silver issue on
El Cap)!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Sep 30, 2008 - 11:30am PT
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A bump in the night.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 30, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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Did you find my contribution to Alpinist 25 interesting?
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scuffy b
climber
Elmertown
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Hey, thanks for posting up the Chouinard article. Raises a question: what the heck is he wearing on his feet? He was probably pretty stoked about them.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2008 - 10:23am PT
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I can't ID the boots but they sure look crack friendly!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 24, 2008 - 01:05am PT
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Pump bump....
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 24, 2008 - 01:13am PT
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Steve,
I definitely enjoyed your Alpinist piece. Still waiting for a Muir Wall write up. Also seems like time for a second-coming of Dale. Any word on what he's up to these days?
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Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
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Oct 25, 2008 - 03:53am PT
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Going way back in the thread: I know Bob “Bob-o” Locke (R.I.P.) set up a top rope on 10.96, getting there using a perhaps somewhat hairy or roundabout third class/fifth class route that one of the crack climbers of the day had shown him. He did climb with Dale, but I don't know if it was Dale who showed him the way around to that TR.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 25, 2008 - 05:30pm PT
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Thanks Marty,
Too damn bad about the fate of Alpinist! Now that they are gone, I may very well tell the tale of the Muir hammerless on the ST. I sure hope Alpinist rises again because the mainstream climbing mags would have likely have little interest or my support.
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Oct 25, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
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wow
i feel as thought i've been given the holy grail.
now i can do anything
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 09:38pm PT
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The power of positive posting......
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Leavittator
climber
san diego, ca.
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
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I think the climber in the 1096 photo posted early in this thread is Max Jones - one of the best all around climbers of that day.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Dale Bard in action, Camp 4 boulders, mid 70's.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
pads are for girls
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Feb 14, 2009 - 01:37am PT
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" It was Ron's climb. I helped clean it with him.
Henry just straight ahead went up there with no regard.
Total as'shole on his part for that! "
You guys got robbed . Did you go back and do it after that ?
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 14, 2009 - 10:39am PT
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Ahhh. Wake up to a Bard with my coffee. I really do miss Allan.
When I was in town, I was put in to forced labor on that climbing wall. Dale put an incredible amount of attention into it. He went to some secret spot to find smooth rocks that wouldn't torch your skin, he legally scored some of the glue that the highway dudes put reflectors down with, the angles and everything were perfect. All four crack machines overhung 20 or 30 degrees and were hideous off fingers. The face moves were all on nice little edge buckets, so it was about 5.8 and overhanging. The point was to go up and down those things until exhaustion. Not hang around trying to figure a move out.
I had a brief moment from that where I could just float boulder problems. Never came again. It was kind of mystical. I knew just how hard to hang on without falling.
Last time I saw it, it was painted with a huge lightning bolt on it.
Then after DR sold the place, I drove by once and it was gone.
I miss those days tremendously. That was probably the funnest year of my life. So far. 1986. Then I got totally sucked down the rabbit hole of BASE. I was already pretty far gone by 1985, for that matter.
Where in the world is Joe Faint these days? He lived next door.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Feb 14, 2009 - 11:15am PT
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Sometiime in the 80's Dale had his horizontal crack machine set-up in my back yard. He did multiple laps listening to AC DC on his head phones.
I asked to give it a go, he knew I was pretty pathetic on thin overhanging cracks and when I manged to get from one end to the other, he gave me a sour look, grabbed the wrench and tightened the thing down to an impossible size then continued his training session.
On my days off from cobbling he hijacked me and my little Honda and we scoured the eastside for the elusive finger cracks.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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scouted for elusive finger cracks?
What did you find? The boulder cracks are out there, but not too many as far as I've seen.
Tom
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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Feb 14, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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Few and far between Tom. I can recall one in each of; Pink Cliffs, Rock Creek, McMurry Meadows and Fossil Falls.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
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i've checked out mcmurry meadows a few times. there's a lot of rock, but strangely not a lot of climbing. very photogenic though. there's that big thumb like fin on top of the hill. way cool, the rock is sketchy.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
pads are for girls
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Feb 14, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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What about Wheeler Crest for cracks ? Think there's a few . Looks ripe for some new exploring . There is some quality boulders all along the base too .
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 14, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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BASE104
Man, we all miss Allan.
Joe Faint passed away a couple of years ago, in Montana, I believe. Here is an old shot of McLean and Faint on Dana, circa 74? We called ourselves the "Tuolumne Ice Men". Seemed funny at the time.
cheers
Joe
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BASE104
climber
An Oil Field
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Feb 15, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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Bummer. Joe Faint taught me how to fly fish. Once I was blazing and he would make these wild faces at me to try to freak me out. I would always scarf his bicycle and ride from forty acres into town when my van was on blocks.
Good soul. He looks so happy in that picture. I never saw him like that.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 19, 2009 - 11:24am PT
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That rippling Bard shot brought this to mind. From Mountain June 1980.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Pumped up windup girltoy bump!
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Wherever Dale went and stayed for any length of time a crack machine would magically appear. He could throw one together in no time.
Base, I remember that wall at DR's! We must know each other?
How about Dale's sanctuary out in the the Milks?
I remember Dale daily soaking his hands in brine to toughen them up for his problems.
Guido - I did not know Joe had died. RIP.
Dale is now the COO for Ortovox (the avalanche beacon company) in SLC.
MaCabe - Still have that great B&W Wiltsie Photo of you on the Apron on my wall. Glad you are still at it.
Besides being a perfectionist in basically everything Dale, Allan & (Gary too) were the sons of Louie Bard, a Chief Warrant Officer in the US Coast Guard - They could tie more knots than you could shake a stick at - and they were/are logistical masters.
I once saw Allan get into a knot tying contest up at the hut on Cotopaxi with a group of Ecuadorian commandos - first I though we had better make sure they won.
Then when AB slayed them hands down - the vibes turned around and he was the toast-of-the-town, they considered him a wizard - cold beers all around at nearly 15,000' in celebration of his prowess!!!
Those Bards are something.
Did I ever post the photo of Dales winning entry (turned Opal Hood Ornament) in the TM "Bubblegum chewing contest"?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2009 - 12:56pm PT
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Bard bump!!!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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TC
I remember Allan telling the story about dad Louie, Chief Warrant Officer, piping the lads awake some mornings with his bosum's whistle!
cheers Guido
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Sep 11, 2009 - 11:20am PT
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Those 3 all had lacquered Knot boards!!!
Hey guido!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 8, 2010 - 10:47am PT
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Fissure tutorial bump!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2010 - 11:42am PT
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Bump for ringlocks!
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the goat
climber
north central WA
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May 26, 2011 - 06:17pm PT
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I had a Dachstein sweater for years, quite a garment. Great sweater except it required a dedicated drawer since it stood about 3'x 3'x 8" when folded!
Do they still make em?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2011 - 05:55pm PT
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Pumping to get past the holiday bump!
Bumping to get past the holiday pump!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 26, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
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Say that ten times really fast and then puke bump.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Dec 26, 2011 - 07:32pm PT
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pump some slots in the new year murry
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 10:28pm PT
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Spring Training Bump.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Mar 14, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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Saw Dale at Rockreation last night bump...
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Mar 14, 2012 - 11:30pm PT
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Can you post some pictures of Tony Kerwin gritting in the bog on a trans sierra tour...Please...RJ
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 06:21pm PT
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Flabby mid-winter's Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2013 - 08:09pm PT
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Bump for a Pump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 09:22am PT
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Bump for ringlocks and pudjams...
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Ringlocks, check. Pudjams,.......are we still talking about climbing?
Always thought the guy on 1096 was Kauk.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 05:27pm PT
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A Pudjam is an extra wide fist jam made possible by inserting the thumb into the space between any two fingers...hence the pud.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Thanks, Steve! Now my imagination is better in check.
Always thought the extra wide fist jam was the one where you brace your thumb laterally to make your fist wider. Those suckers always hurt me.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 06:03pm PT
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You do what you must but...de pud is mo betta!
Our own Phil Gleason is Mr. 1096.
From Bridwell's Brave New World Mountain #31
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Cave Creek, AZ
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Phil Gleason is amazing in that pic. What about this guy?
Every time I see Dale Bard's crack treatise I am amazed at the elegance and mastery. As always, thanks for sharing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 7, 2014 - 06:22pm PT
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Looks like Kauk to me too.
Not much traffic on that one BITD, I bet
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2015 - 11:46am PT
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I recently had the pleasure of hanging with Phil for the first time and look forward to sitting for an interview with the camera going.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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May 31, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Watched Dale do endless laps at Doug's place on his horizontal crack rail as music came from the bread house. Couldn't even get on it. The climbing wall was very hard and committing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 02:59pm PT
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Dale is one strong dude without a doubt.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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The true crackmaster
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snowhazed
Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
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Not that anyone would be led astray by reading something on technique (hopefully) but the second paragraph of the original post article says that in climbing corner cracks the shoulder that is against the wall is the underneath hand in the shuffle. I might be misreading what they are saying, but the technique is exactly the opposite.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2018 - 09:41am PT
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Technique is idiosyncratic bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2019 - 12:46pm PT
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Great to see Dale's smiling face at the Bridwell memorial.
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